Sphere By Milan

JLC MC Alarm Navy SEALs Incursion Editions

2010-07-21T20:48:00.001-05:00

Jaeger-LeCoultre delivers the first Master Compressor Diving Alarm Navy SEALs Beverly Hills Boutique Incursion Editions at the Jaeger-LeCoultre Navy SEALs mini BUDs delivery event in Coronado.

Since the announcement of the partnership between the US Navy SEALs and Jaeger-LeCoultre with the unveiling of the Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs collection in 2008, two US Navy SEALs have been using the Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs alarm during their deployments and operations around the world, gathering performance information about the watch in an operational and tactical environment.
Last January, Jaeger-LeCoultre had the pleasure to announce the extension of their Navy SEALs line with timepieces exclusively created for its Beverly Hills Boutique. The natural progression for the Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs line was to create the Incursion Edition for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Beverly Hills flagship. The geographic proximity to the Navy SEALs training base in Coronado has created a particularly strong following for the Master Compressor Navy SEALs collection. Due to this strong US following of the Navy SEALs and Jaeger-LeCoultre partnership, the Beverly Hills Boutique set out to create a penultimate edition for its most passionate enthusiast.

The original Master Compressor Diving Alarm served as the optimal base platform housing a majority of the purposed needs for the Incursion Edition. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s perpetual quest for innovation, further adjustments and improved design details were employed to create subtle yet important changes to further optimize this Edition for its required usage.

Highly symbolical, these very exclusive limited editions pay tribute to the origins of the Navy SEALs as this elite unit was established by President John Fitzgerald Kennedy in 1962. This monumental point in history was a big inspiration to the Incursion Edition theme, with the final number of pieces being a permutation of the numerals “1962”, with 19 pieces for the black titanium version and 62 for the grey pvd version.

Such a dynamic watch deserves nothing short of an explosive delivery. Last week, Jaeger-LeCoultre and CEO Jerome Lambert hosted the first Jaeger-LeCoultre Navy SEALs event in Coronado, California for friends and enthusiasts of the brand. Both Navy SEALs who have tested and evaluated the Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs timepieces were present to give a brief look into the world of this elite group of men to discuss their experiences with the watches. Guests were given the opportunity to truly see the integrity, strength and pride that goes along with being a SEAL. A lucky few participants were presented the first delivered Incursions by the SEALs to wear with the knowledge that these same qualities were used in making their timepieces.

The SEALs will continue to wear the watches, give feed back, and document their experiences in order to advise Jaeger-LeCoultre on further Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs editions to come.

Technical characteristics of Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Alarm Navy SEALs Beverly Hills

Movement: Mechanical automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956, crafted, assembled and decorated by hand; 28,800 vibrations per hour; 45-hour power reserve; 268 parts; 23 jewels; 7.45 mm thick

Case: 44 mm in titanium with black pvd coating or grey pvd coating

Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, date white numerals transferred against a black background, alarm

Dial: Color accents: Orange or yellow on the second hand tip and compressor crown arrows with addition of the same color to inner ring numerical five second interval markings.
- Black outer ring with stamped and luminescent hour-markers and numerals,
- Charcoal grey inner alarm ring with circular finish matching the case

Hands: hours and minutes with trapeze-shaped, open worked, luminescent

Crowns: one black rubber-molded crown at 2 o’clock equipped with a compression key, for winding the alarm, adjusting it and fast date adjustment.
one black rubber-molded crown at 4 o’clock equipped with a compression key, for starting the watch and adjusting the time.

Straps: black leather with matching orange or yellow stitching and PVD buckle. Diving strap in black Cordura.

Accessories: Unique packaging that goes hand in hand with the theme of Incursion Edition.

Halloween weekend & once again I'm pretending ... Hi my name is Bond, James Bond ;-)

2009-11-01T10:07:00.003-06:00

Happy Halloween to you all ... now I have to rush as my Aston is double parked ;-)

Unbeknownst to me THE PRODIGY is BACK and blowing my mind AGAIN! sample "Take me to the Hospital ;-)

2009-09-21T16:14:00.001-05:00

The Prodigy - Take Me To The Hospital
by TheProdigy-Official">

Ah the très sexy Polaris - 10 months and still a love affair ...

2009-08-17T12:18:00.006-05:00

I know I haven't posted in a while, so I thought it would very much appropriate to get back to what has been in my horological sphere lately with proclaiming my ongoing love affair with this perfect baby - still going strong well over 10 months with no sign of quitting ;-)

I especially love it on this custom vintage tanned cognac calf (whose color I have always difficulty describing for some reason) and ever since spring it has been my main go to choice for a daily wearer. Just love the compliment of the vintage look with that color and the way the stitching is perfectly matched to aged tanned look of SuperLuminova - ah the details that make the perfection.

Taking it for my summer vacation where it will be at home in the deep blue of the Adriatic. I will finally switch it back to the very comfortable OEM tropic which is after all the reason this was made for - underwater and very sunny conditions.

Lastly upon my return I decided I will provide you with my one year anniversary review of this very special piece to me.

In the words of Bowie: Ch-ch-Changes .... Apologies all over !

2009-08-11T16:24:00.007-05:00

In the immortal words of David Bowie:

"Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes
(turn and face the strain)
Ch-ch-changes
Dont want to be a richer man
Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes
(turn and face the strain)
Ch-ch-changes
Just gonna have to be a different man
Time may change me
But I can't trace time."

Firstly I would like to say thanks to all the kind readers and followers of this blog for your continued patronage, patience and concern. Sorry to all you that have contacted me over time especially about my abrupt lack of posting in the past six months. All I can say is sorry for dropping out on you without any clues or notice. In truth I have not abandoned this blog nor my pursuit of blogging about all things that make my mind tick especially when considering the horological sphere. However I had to deal with some personal family issues that have struck me suddenly and following that I did embark on a new professional venture which simply consumed all of my free time that I had to be dedicated to this blog.

That said currently I am trying to find a right balance in order to further incorporate my continued contribution to this blog. If I don't have time to post much of my musings or often enough it will be simply for a lack of free time and life priories rather then any abandonment issues. I hope in future to see you still visiting and enjoying the content posted as you did in the past. Now that I had that off my chest I thought it would be appropriate to end this with a great song - so would you please join Bowie and me ;-)

Horology News: Jaeger-LeCoultre Wins Focus' "Goldene Unruh 2009"

2009-03-03T13:40:00.013-06:00

Some really great news for Jaeger LeCoultre and Memovox Polaris fans, on February 26th in Stuttgart, Focus (the watch contest organized by a renowned German publication) won "Goldene Unruh 2009". For the first time in many years JLC won a first prize. In the category 10.000 - 25.000 EUR the Memovox Tribute to Polaris succeeded over Glashütte Original and Lange & Söhne. Also Master Ultra Thin (up to 5.000 EUR) and Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 (over 25.000 EUR) were very successful both came in 4th place.

This is IMO especially crowned JLC achievement as German magazines are known to be very astute, analytical and some of the best horological publication especially when considering that it bested its German rivals in its class. So congratulation to Jaeger LeCoultre on yet another achievement and another successful accolade to be added to Memovox Tribute to Polaris whose legend keeps on growing by each passing day.

Info via Marc Menant from Jeager LeCoultre

Habanos S.A. Regional Edition (Edición Regional) 2009 Series

2009-02-27T15:57:00.040-06:00

In keeping with this month my favorite theme of Habanos Festival here are some older posts about and including all things Habanos to refresh and salivate your palate. ;-)

Since 2005, Habanos SA has released the Regional Edition (Edición Regional) Series and this year it is no exception so the following is a list of 2009 Regional Cigars (ring gauge x length in millimeters with factory name for the shape).

Bolivar - Germany - 5ta Avenida – 50 x 184 - Conde 109
Bolivar - Germany - Especiales No.2 – 38 x 192 - Delicados
Punch - Italy - Diademas Extra - 55 x 233 - Diadema
El Ray del Mundo - Italy - Torpedos - 52 x 140 - Campanas
Por Larrañaga - not allocated - Machu Picchu - 50 x 127 - Petit Piramides
Ramon Allones - not allocated - Los Andes - 50 x 141 - Gorditos
El Ray del Mundo - Baltic - Balthasar - 50 x 155 - Dobles
Por Larrañaga - Switzerland - Valiosos - 52 x 156 - Piramides
Punch - Switzerland - Pocerosos - 54 x 164 - Sublimes
Ramon Allones - Switzerland - Deliciosos - 50 x 102 - Petit Robustos
Ramon Allones - Asia Pacific - Celestiales Finos - 46 x 137 - Britanicas
Saint Luis Rey - Asia Pacific - Pacifics - 52 x 156 - Piramides
Punch - Benelux - Punch Royal - 50 x 141 - Gordito
Bolivar - Benelux - Fabulosos - 52 x 135 - Edmundo
Vegas Robaina - Benelux - Elegantes - 47 x 158 - Tacos
Vegas Robaina - Benelux - Magnificos - 52 x 135 - Edmundo
Punch - Spain - Grand Robusto - 50 x 155 - Dobles
Por Larrañaga - not allocated - unnamed - 50 x 155 - Dobles
Juan Lopez - not allocated - unnamed - 50 x 102 - Petit Robustos
El Ray del Mundo - France - Petit Coupania - 50 x 127 - Petit Piramides
Quintero - France - Small Club - 50 x 102 - Petit Robustos
Ramon Allones - Middle East - Beritus - 52 x 135 - Edmundo
Bolivar - Middle East - El Greco - 50 x 141 - Gorditos
Vegas Robaina - Canada - Petit Robaina - 52 x 110 - Petit Edmundo
Ramon Allones - Canada - Petit Unicos - 50 x 127 - Petit Pyramides
Juan Lopez - UK - Seleccion Suprema - 52 x 170 - Torre Iznagas
El Ray del Mundo - UK - Choix de L'epoque - 52 x 110 - Petit Edmundo
Punch - Scandinavia - Northern Light - 52 x 110 - Petit Edmundo
Vegas Robaina - Scandinavia - Great Northern Light - 54 x 164 - Sublimes
La Gloria Cubana - Unknown (Habanos S.A.) - Deliciosos - 48 x 127 - Hermosos No.4
Punch - India - Platino - 49 x 194 - Prominentes

In my past experience some of the Regional Editions were worth the effort to seek out and usually shell out some extra moolah (few Ramon Allones, Vegas Robaina come to mind) as a treat whilst traveling to some Cigar Mecca destinations, but in general not on my priority. The same could not be said for the Limited Editions yet for those you definitely have to just bite the bullet and repeat to yourself "you only live once thus is foolish to deny yourself the utmost quality, taste and ultimate enjoyment"! ;-)

XI Festival del Habano - light those Puros its Habanos time

2009-02-27T15:57:00.036-06:00

During the week of the 23rd to the 27th of February, the Cuban capital is hosting the eleventh Habanos Festival, the most important event in the world for Habano cigar lovers and professionals. Each year, the Festival has acted as a showcase for the international presentations and launches of the firm’s latest and most emblematic products - the one and only Habanos Puros. This year, there are two exceptional stars of the Festival: the intro of new range of most legendary brand Montecristo the Open and the first Gran Reserva from Habanos dedicated of course to the perennial Puro brand - Cohiba.

Anyway, this celebration was against a backdrop of Habanos reporting yesterday that its global sales dropped 3 percent last year to $390 million due to the economic crisis and the rise of anti-smoking. This is from 2008 $402 million but its still up from 2005 and 2006. Sales are expected to be down this year as well quoting officials from El Laguito that they expected to produce much less cigars than the 3 million foretasted this year due to the bad global economy. And most of the cigar merchants, whether from London, Paris or Hong Kong, were bemoaning the difficulty in selling fine cigars during the event.

Habanos S.A., the global marketing and distribution company for Cuban cigars and organizers of the festival, also mentioned the introduction of the new Trinidad Robusto T (50 x 124mm) Del Valle vitola presented in 3 packs. From the notes of Cigar Aficionado's James Suckling "What an awesome smoke. I love the rich and spicy character with a fresh, clean and floral undertone. It has all the Trinidad style that I like and more. I think it’s a 93-point smoke, non blind."

Cohiba Gran Reserva (52 ring gauge by 5 7/8 inches) was unveiled as well - the Canonazo (the factory name for the new Cohiba) and the same vitola as the regular production Siglo VI. It is made from five-year-old tobacco (the filler is all from the 2003 harvest) and comes in limited production of 5000 packaged in special box containing 15 cigars. Per Suckling "the richness and power of the smoke is overwhelming. It had such great length with coffee, tobacco and dark chocolate character that filled the mouth. It had the classic freshness of the Cohiba brand as well." Sounds like another addition to the Wish list barring it being overwhelmingly cost prohibitive like all previous special Cohiba releases.

Introduction of the four Montecristo Open sizes including:
small Junior, 38 ring gauge by 4 1/3 inches;
belicoso Regatta, 46 by 5 1/3 inches;
robusto Master, 50 by 4 7/8 inches;
supercharged robusto Eagle, 54 by 5 7/8 inches.

These four cigars carry the traditional brown and cream Montecristo band, but they also have a second green band with gold and white lettering. Open line is geared towards "the Montecristo Generation- mostly men in their 30s or 40s who want to enjoy the good things in life(think images of fantastic golf courses, luxe yachts and powerful sports cars mixed with polo tournaments, tennis matches, international regattas, and Grand Prix races)", which obviously includes a good cigar. Whatever the marketing hoopla behind it to me what matters is how they taste and smoke. If they are anything as my perennial favorite short Petit Edmundo they a say bring them on even if they are probably targeted towards bringing in that lucrative segment of casual (think special events mostly) cigar smoker. Again as reported by James Suckling "the cigars are typical Montecristo, more along the lines of Edmundo than anything else. I smoked a Master and Eagle last night, I found the Eagle the better of the two. It had the most richness and flavor to compensate for the stormy weather. There were plenty of chocolate and cream flavors with a hint of cedar. 92 points, unblind. I scored the Master 90 points, unblind." Sounds tasty to me so depending on the pricing the Regatta and Eagle could be soon in my rotation as well (fingers crossed).

Another intro was a commemorative case of the X Edition of the Habano Festival. Exclusively aimed for distribution through Las Casas del Habano and Habanos specialists stores with 20 000 cases available. It comprises of the most exclusive vitolas of Habanos brands launched in the past edition of the Habanos Festival.
During the Gala Night of the past Habano Festival, a special case was gifted to attendants in occasion of the commemoration of the X anniversary of the Habano Festivals. Due to the demand and the immediate success of this initiative, it was decided to launch a replica of said case. These Habanos are packaged in luxury black-lacquered, cabinet-shaped cases, with a selection of 10 cigars listed as follows:

* Montecristo Edmundo (Ring Gauge 52 x 135 mm long)
* Trinidad Robustos Extra (Ring Gauge 50 x 155 mm long)
* Cohiba Maduro 5 Genios (Ring Gauge 52 x 140 mm long)
* H.Upmann Magnum 50 (Ring Gauge 50 x 160 mm long))
* Romeo y Julieta Short Churchills (Ring Gauge 50 x 124 mm long)
* Hoyo de Monterrey Epicure Especial (Ring Gauge 50 x 141 mm long)
* Partagás Serie P No 2 (Ring Gauge 52 x 156 mm long)
* Cohiba Siglo VI (Ring Gauge 52 x 150 mm long)
* San Cristóbal de la Habana Mercaderes (Ring Gauge 48 x 167 mm long)
* Cuaba Generosos (Ring Gauge 42 x 132 mm long)

The Travel Retail Selection Pack is made up by a selection of trendy sizes from three different most successful of the latest launching of Habanos brands within the past four years. The Robusto is a trendy size nowadays, so no wonder it has been chosen to be the core of this selection.

* Petit Edmundo from Montecristo: With a ring gauge 52 x 110 mm long, Petit
Edmundo is offering its medium to full flavor that has become an icon among
cigar enthusiasts around the world.
* Short Churchills from Romeo y Julieta: A classic Robusto (ring gauge 50 and
124 mm long) balanced and aromatic blend of the Vuelta Abajo leaves, making
it the classic medium bodied Habano.
* Petit Robusto from Hoyo de Monterrey: A delicate yet aromatic Habano that
is lighter to the taste but with great elegance and complexity.

Once again, Habanos s.a. gives consumers another chance to get the latest exclusivity for the Duty Free and Travel Retail channel. Aiming at the preservation as the key factor, the pack was specially made with the latest “Double Chamber” Humidifier Tube, in order to keep the Habanos inside for a long time in safe conditions. Habanos are evenly humidified from the bottom to the top. Furthermore, dry Habanos can be "recovered" in only 1 week. Another plus added is the eye-catching design, in which each tube carries out the brand logo on the side printed in a sleek surface for a better presentation. These will be available to the Duty Free market by the end of the year.

More on other 2009 Regional, Limited Editions and special releases later on.

Info via Habanos SA & CA's James Suckling.

News: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s charity online-auction of the Prototype Number 1

2009-02-09T14:28:00.004-06:00

On February 16th, Jaeger-LeCoultre.com will begin an online auction of one prototype of the model Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm Tides of Time, from its SIHH 2009 collection. Symbolizing the “Tides of Time” partnership between Jaeger-LeCoultre, the UNESCO World Heritage Center and the International Herald Tribune, this timepiece associates two of the Manufacture’s emblematic complications: an alarm and the simultaneous display of the time in 24 time zones. Three of the cities on its outer dial ring have been replaced by three natural sites - Scandola, Galapagos and Tubbataha - inscribed on the World Heritage List benefiting from a dedicated preservation programe supported by Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Proceeds from the auction will go to a World Heritage project identified by UNESCO. The Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre is involved in a three-year partnership with the UNESCO World Heritage Center and the International Herald Tribune to help promote, protect and safeguard outstanding marine sites that require specific immediate intervention.
Interested in joining the auction of the prototype Number 1 in steel and titanium of the latest Master Compressor Extreme W-Alarm ‘Tides of Time’ for World Heritage? Stay tuned from February 11th and visit Jaeger-LeCoultre’s website.

TIDES OF TIME & THE WORLD HERITAGE MARINE CENTRE
“Making Time More Beautiful” is the name of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s global strategy to counter the threats to our planet. It aims not only to preserve the manufacturing company’s exceptional natural environment, but to support projects of international scope as well. In this regard, the watchmaking company has entered into a three-year partnership with the Unesco World Heritage Centre to support the preservation of outstanding marine sites that are in immediate need of protection. To make people aware of this environmental cause, Jaeger-LeCoultre will join the International Herald Tribune in publishing information about the eight selected Unesco World Heritage sites in its “Tides of Time” section.

Info via Jeager-LeCoultre

SIHH 2009 News: Jaeger LeCoultre introduces official channel on YouTube

2009-02-01T08:21:00.006-06:00

I really liked the way the information was disseminated this year using various Internet media. As you know I am (and probably most everyone who is reading this blog) very internet centric so today I/we get most of my information primarily and directly via the internet. While there are many companies today that are utilizing this strategy for a various mix of marketing and information to some extent many are missing on the true potential and end reach of all available media tools.

This year Manufacture Jaeger LeCoultre again followed on their path of innovation and raised the bar a bit higher. There was a strong mix of interesting information snippets coming from JLC Le Club, Internet forums, Blogs, online/paperback magazines the one that took the cake for me was the newly introduced JLC YouTube channel . I really enjoyed having the ability to view (and review at my time and hearts content) organic and moving videos instead of just pictorials that many times display lack of that 3rd dimension. JLC YouTube channel comprises of selection of press releases presenting the newest and best of the Manufacture, previous horological achievements as well various other mini films. Notably as well a personal welcome and introduction of some SIHH 2009 novelties by JLC CEO Jerome Lambert. I think the info delivered in this manner presents for a much more personal experience for each viewer and overall a great success from what I could gather by now.

Lastly in a sign that not everyone is taking themselves too serious there is a video on top featuring two JLC collectors (one of them is yours truly) with dare I say surprising humorous twist. Check it out and tell me what you think. ;-)

Watch News: Global Recession Impacts Luxury Watches

2009-01-29T08:56:00.007-06:00

The global recession has impacted the once recession-proof Swiss luxury watch business, according to reports from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, the Richemont Group (Cartier’s parent), and the prestigious Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie luxury watch fair in Geneva, Switzerland.

"After several record-breaking years, Swiss watch exports in November—traditionally their best month—declined (by 15.3 percent in value, compared to November 2007) for the first time in almost four years. While all price segments dropped, the fall was greatest (down 30 percent) for watches between about $435 and $2,600 (export prices)."

The declines “clearly illustrates the curb on growth suffered by the industry as a result of the world economic climate,” an FH report said. Watch exports, about 10 percent of all Swiss exports, are expected to be less this year than in 2008.

The 18th SIHH (Jan. 19 -23) expects 15 percent fewer visitors—especially from the United States and Japan—than in 2008, when 17,000 from prestigious retailers worldwide attended the invitation-only event. Some show officials and attendees blame the global economic climate and what one Swiss newspaper calls “this challenging [watch] industry environment.”

Some also suggest holding the SIHH—usually in March/April to coincide with the international Basel, Switzerland, watch fair—in mid-January, due to a scheduling conflict at Geneva’s convention center, is also a factor.

In addition, SIHH’s exhibitors canceled their traditional evening events, normally highlights of the week, which celebrate the luxury watch business, some “to save money,” said a show spokesperson.

Info via JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 1/21/2009.

Horology News & Commentary: SIHH 2009 Cometh!

2009-01-29T08:55:00.011-06:00

As the new year rolls around here cometh the SIHH 2009! Say what?

As announced last year this January appeared first-ever SIHH winter edition which saw some new features in a pretty challenging current global recession environment.

SIHH 2009 displayed the work of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which promotes luxury watchmaking worldwide and is the SIHH’s organizer. The 2009 SIHH featured 17 of the globe’s most prestigious brands (12 owned by the Geneva-based Richemont Group). They are A. Lange & Söhne, Alfred Dunhill, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Girard-Perregaux, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jean Richard, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Ralph Lauren, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Some of the novelties and changes of the years prior:

- The Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry Co, a recent joint venture between the Richemont Group and the Polo Ralph Lauren fashion brand, has joined the SIHH exhibitors and unveiled its first-ever collection of timepieces. This is Richemont’s first joint venture with a luxury fashion designer and Polo Ralph Lauren’s first foray into luxury watches (more details on that later).

- Roger Dubuis will be there in a new light since the purchase by Richemont last year. The purchased manufacture movement kit facility which Richemont will continue to supply to Manufacture Roger Dubuis SA (founded and is managed by Mr Carlos Dias), under the terms of a long-term agreement. They will continue to operate as an independent manufacturer and distributor under the “Roger Dubuis” brand. It will supply the components for high end watch movements, not only for Roger Dubuis but also for Richemont’s own Maisons.

- The FH is showing the newest version of its world-traveling exhibition, “Think Time, Think Swiss Excellence,” not seen previously in Switzerland.

My visit was as well shortened to the years prior thus I didn't take as much as time to go through all the brands 2009 novelties as many of them IMO weren't truly anything groundbreaking nor was there prior years excitement due to the current economic environment affecting us all.

Unfortunately for most of us watch aficionados the main topic on most industry people minds was not the rather weak watch novelties, but instead the economic climate we are all facing in the upcoming months.

The Richemont Group, whose several prestigious international jewelry and watch brands issued a grim report this month. Important third-quarter sales dropped 12 percent overall, and 28 percent in the Americas alone, due to the global financial crisis and a decline in consumer confidence which had “a significant impact” on regional sales, it said. As a result of that the giant Cartier has put almost all 200 full-time workers making watch cases at one of its Swiss watch factories on part-time. From what I hear they are not alone either considering similar actions or already implementing planned cost cutting.

“Demand for luxury goods … has fallen dramatically,” the statement said, “and Richmond is facing the toughest market conditions since its formation 20 years ago.” With the current economic climate and uncertainties, it expects “no significant recovery in the foreseeable future” and will “take the necessary steps to not only see the difficult times through but to emerge stronger.”

From the last data I gathered there were over 600 watch related companies operating in Switzerland last year. Surely this was not all due to overwhelming insatiable demand and expansion of the watch industry seen during the last years of the horology renaissance. There were surely players in the industry that flourished yet there were some that just jumped on the gravy train and anyone (and their mother it seems) was able to get/make/buy a brand name and all of a sudden become a legitimate Swiss watchmaking company. Let's face the facts - there is no way all of them should have existed in the first place nor they will survive the current harsh environment present. This is a good thing as in my humble opinion there is about 30-40% much needed correction of these numbers. This all points that 2009 will be a undoubtedly a year of consolidation, after the unprecedented interest in technical, unique and exquisite watches of recent years had taken the industry to a level which was not reasonably expected to continue further in such manner.

So what can we expect from the year 2009 shakeout?

Only the strong and truly the value brands which were the leaders before and will continue providing not just a pretty shiny package, but a true horology advancement, innovation and value. Those leaders, as you might have suspected, are the bigger conglomerates and companies which sheer scale & magnitude of their resources puts them in the best position to adjust in order overcome this economic downturn.
Although being big company does not guarantee the survival if there is not capable or nimble upper management ready to to adjust their product to this changing market. There will undoubtedly be plenty of consolidation. Smaller fish will be eaten by the bigger and bolder competitors while other brands presenting little of actual horological or marketing value will be left alone to deservedly DIE! This weeding of the weak in the end is a good thing as it will leave us with more healthy and naturally stronger horological field benefiting us all in the end.

We have seen some minor effects already:
- Zenith announced some firings in its watchmaking workforce.
- Villemont seems to be the very first bankruptcy casualty.
- Bedat & Co. is being reported as currently being shut down.

Speaking at SIHH, Bernard Fornas (Cartier International President & CEO), told Reuters that “real, true luxury is back,” because the financial crisis is changing consumers attitudes and buying. “When people are buying something they are very tough with their choice of brands,” he said, and are now more likely to favor “strong” luxury brands, rather than lower-priced ones which call themselves luxury. Still, echoing Richemont's forecast, Fornas told Reuters, that currently “we don't see where the end of the tunnel is and we see no cause for optimism."

What to add in the end, except so very true!

Watch News: The prize-winners of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2008

2008-11-14T10:47:00.004-06:00

The prize-giving ceremony of the 8th Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix took place on November 13, at the Grand Théâtre of Geneva, illuminated by Gerry Hostetter.

The most prestigious prize, the “Aiguille d’Or” (“Golden Hand”), was given this year to the watch by F.P. Journe: The Centigraph Souverain. This new chronograph conquered the hearts and minds of the jury.

With a dozen different prize categories, the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix honors the most creative watchmaking brands every year. Officially supported by the City and State of Geneva, the ceremony attracted the leading managers, journalists and aficionados of the watchmaking world. Presided by Pierre-François Unger in front of a crowd of more than 1500 guests, it was a not-to-be-missed event for international horology.

Adjudged by an international jury of recognized professionals (see the list on www.worldtempus.com), the prizes consecrate the winners in various categories noted below as well as the Best Watchmaker Prize, the Jury’s Prize, the Public Prize and the “Golden Hand” Grand Prix.

The winning watches, in addition to all the other preselected timepieces, can be viewed until the 21st of November in the UBS Corraterie branch office in the centre of Geneva.

List of the prize-winners of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève 2008

Grand Prix « l’Aiguille d’or » (Golden Hand Prize)- F.P. Journe, Centigraphe Souverain

Best Watchmaker Prize - Giulio Papi

Special Jury Prize - Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

Favourite Ladies Watch - Piaget, Limelight Magic Hour

Favourite Men’s Watch - Vacheron Constantin, Quai de l’Ile

Favourite Design Watch - Concord, C1 Tourbillon Gravity

Favourite Jewellery Watch - Audemars Piguet, Millenary Pianoforte

Favourite Watch with complication - Jaeger-LeCoultre, Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

Favourite Sports Watch - TAG Heuer, Grande Carrera Calibre 36 RS Caliper Chronographe

Favourite Full Calendar Watch - Audemars Piguet, Equation du Temps Squelette Jules Audemars

Public Prize - Maurice Lacroix, Starside Eternal Moo

Congratulations to all the winners as most selections like the JLC's Gyrotourbillon 2 & F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain seem to validate further the exceptional mastery of hi end watchmaking as well as the hard work being presented in today's horological industry although some of the other category winner choices remain to leave me befuddled.

Info via Worldtempus.com

News: United States President elect Barack Obama and his watches

2008-11-08T13:27:00.005-06:00

I don't get to political on this blog, but this week historical Presidential elections here in the US captured mine as well the global attention thus they need to be mentioned even if it is just in the context of watches.

The junior United States Senator from Chicago, Illinois Barack Obama made history and is the first African American to be elected as the 44th President of the United States. This besides sweeping away the last racial barrier in American politics electing him with ease in many ways it signifies change and new hope for the citizens of this country as well the US image abroad in these difficult economic times.

So in the words of my President elect "If there is anyone out there who still doubts that America is a place where all things are possible, who still wonders if the dream of our founders is alive in our time, who still questions the power of our democracy, tonight is your answer. It’s been a long time coming, but tonight, because of what we did on this date in this election at this defining moment, change has come to America." All I can say Thank you Mr. President.

So enough of my mumbling about politics I thought it would be appropriate to take a look at the man of the moment from a different aspect and a more personal horological insight in this fantastic article Obama's watches by Jeff Stein. Enjoy!

Watch News: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Survivor Chronograph

2008-11-08T10:20:00.007-06:00

Over the last year much has been speculated by AP's ferment ROO aficionados about the final design and name of yet another very much talked about AP Special Edition ROO. Well the time has come and it's finally here! On November 6th the day of the Global Launch (sounds so sinister) all of the AP ROO faithful have gather around the world to be finally introduced to a finished product they debated about for so long.

Overall I find the finishing and many of the design cues to be very interesting and well executed in particular my surprise that I'm for once a fan of the execution of the dial which with ROO's can be IMHO very cluttered and dare I say colorfully confusing. The open worked hands and vertical grooved ceramic bezel are another two aesthetically successful details tying up the whole "sinister" design. I also liked that they successful carried on the wider non-tappered vulcanized rubber style strap first introduced on the Team Ainghi LE.

On the other hand what I don't like is cartoonish elements such as these crown guards, notched "gun barrel" rim of the crown, as well as the ratcheted case edge. Then its the usual complaint of YET another LE ROO (number 69 and counting LOL), yet another PVD'd black watch (I thought only Hublot was the company that still thinks that is something innovative) and of course lets not forget the very lame name. No secret here that I am no fanboy of ROO's altogether but c'mon AP how long can you continue following the same old ROO LE thing.

“Survivor” mission:

- Readability, functionality and high precision, the wearer is liable to find himself confronted with an unknown and hostile environment – overpopulated megalopolis, urban jungle cosmic construction sites, etc.
- High-tech architecture: ultra-light, high-resistance materials that adjust to body temperature.
- Design: ergonomic and sophisticated, genetic markers of the Royal Oak Offshore collection pushed to extremes.
- Mechanical performance: exclusive chronograph movement.

Technical specifications:

Follow this link to see the SURVIVOR MOVIE

High-tech materials:

Blackened titanium plays the starring role. This ultra-light material has been chosen for the case and the surrounding elements: studs, push pieces and guards, crown and oversize strap buckle. The same goes for the medallion back featuring a special non-slip texture.

Titanium also shows up on the lower part of the octagonal bezel, while its upper part opts for ceramics. The latter is distinguished by clearly marked vertical grooves reminiscent of the characteristic satin finish of the Royal Oak Offshore collection.

The strap is made from vulcanized rubber, an indispensable part of the extreme sports universe. Its matte black granular surface accentuates the adventurous camouflage-type look of this chronograph issued in a limited edition of 1000.

Shapes and ergonomics:

Each detail is meticulously designed to ensure a blend of efficiency and lightness. The perforations on the bezel lighten up the structure without compromising its sturdiness. The hollowed push pieces equipped with a security look ensure user-friendly handling. In a similar vein, the generous size and notched rim of the crown, as well as the ratcheted case edge, facilitate getting a quick and sure grip on this exceptional instrument. The conical shape of the push pieces guarantees instant activation of the chronograph function, while the skeleton hands, luminescent hour-markers and silver-colored small seconds counter guarantee optimal readability by day or night. And finally, since nothing is left to chance, a careful observer will note the apertures on the case middle and studs.

The Royal Oak Offshore signature features:

- Strongbox-type case water-resistant to 100 meters, with anti magnetic system designed to protect the mechanism from any hostile element
- Hexagonal socket-head screws echoing the legendary hexagonal screws of the Royal Oak Offshore models
- Exclusive “Mega Tapisserie” guilloché pattern on the dial, matched on this model by the checkered motif on the strap
- Strap perfectly integrated with the case

High-precision instrument

The Royal Oak Offshore Survivor houses the exclusive Audemars Piguet self-winding Calibre 3126/3840, guaranteeing sturdiness, reliability and precision rating:
- up to 60 hours’ power reserve thanks to a mainspring which, by supplying constant force over a longer time-span, ensures enhanced rating accuracy;
- a cross-through balance-cock reinforcing the stability of the movement;
- a balance-stop mechanism serving to immobilize the seconds hand and thus enabling time-setting to the nearest second;
- a variable-inertia balance equipped with eight inertia-blocks enabling precise and stable adjustment;
- fast date correction with an integrated security system avoiding any risk of date disc blockage when the adjustment occurs at midnight;
- bidirectional automatic winding of the mainspring by means of a 22-carat gold rotor mounted on a ball-bearing mechanism;

Technical Specifications
Royal Oak Offshore Survivor Chronograph

Reference
26165IO.OO.A002CA.01
Limited series of 1000

Movement
Calibre: 3126/3840, self winding
Total diameter : 26 mm (11 ½ lignes)
Thickness : 7.16 mm
59 jewels
365 parts
Up to 60-hour power reserve
Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Variable-inertia type balance with eight inertia-blocks and a flag balance-spring
Geneva-type mobile balance-spring stud-holder
Three-position winding crown
Finishing: all parts decorated by hand; main plate rhodium-plated, bevelled and stippled; bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

Case
Strongbox-type case with anti magnetic system, cone-shaped pushpieces, hollowed pushpiece guards, crown, crown guard and studs in blackened titanium
Perforated ceramic bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 1.565 mm
Water resistance: 100 metres
Medallion back in blackened titanium with non-slip motif, titanium zone engraved with the inscription Royal Oak Offshore Survivor – Limited Edition

Dial
Matt black, exclusive “Mega Tapisserie” guilloché motif
Snailed hour circle
Luminescent open worked hour and minute hands
Luminescent applied hour-markers

Strap
Vulcanized rubber with chequered motifs and oversized buckle in blackened titanium

Functions
Hours and minutes
Small seconds
Chronograph with central sweep seconds hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters
Tachometer scale around the flange
Date

For more real world photos of the watch as well some excellent coverage of the Survivor launch follow the link posted by TZ's Paul Boutros of the AP NY Boutique event

News: Jaeger-LeCoultre signed a Partnership agreement with the U.S. Navy SEALs!

2008-11-04T17:52:00.004-06:00

Yup exciting news for all vintage, military and especially JLC aficionados report by the great Stephan Ciejka from LaRevuedesMontre

Translated: "The Swiss Manufacture Jaeger LeCoultre has signed a cooperation agreement with the special forces command of the U.S. Navy, and becomes the partner of the famous watchmaker Navy SEALs, commandos and combat swimmers of the Navy of the United States. This collaboration is expected to last several years, and will lead to the production of special series, and more limited, which will be tested by operators of the unit during the coming months. The activity of this elite unit made a test laboratory particularly valuable."

In short the announcement of the cooperation with JLC and U.S. Navy SEALs resulting in development of some very cool diving watches over the next few years. The only other thing I can disclose is that we might see some sooner then the summer is expected ;-)

Independent watchmakers News: Great artickle about new brand from Ludwig Oeschslin - "Ochs und Junior"

2008-11-02T11:59:00.003-06:00

A great report by Timm Delfs brought us by Ian Skellern at Horomundi. If you are fan of the simplistic genius work that Ludwig Oeschslin has been doing over the years you will definitely love to hear more about this collaboration with Paul Gerber. Both the "Settimana Junior" and "Anno" feature innovative and simple display such as the one seen on Settimana - semicircle of dots that indicate what day of the week it is.

"Anno" a more "serious" piece features a new Paul Gerber automatic caliber and Ludwig's specialty of annual calendar. All this and being in such minimalist design yet on the other hand quite complicated and impeccably finished. I love news like this thus I am quite intrigued and can't wait to hear more.

Info and photo via www.Horomundi.com and www.ochsundjunior.ch/

TAG Heuer joins the FHH club

2008-10-30T14:38:00.005-05:00

La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland — TAG Heuer has become a member of the exclusive Swiss watchmaking club, the Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), joining the ranks of the Richmond heavyweights such as Cartier, Jaeger Le-Coultre and Audemars Piguet.

For TAG Heuer, the membership became official Oct. 1, capping off "a 150-year history dedicated to the pursuit of ultimate precision and inspired by a constant quest for innovation," the brand said in a press release issued earlier this week.

As part of its association, TAG Heuer will showcase the "Grand Carrera Calibre 8 RS Grande Date GMT," part of the Grand Carrera series of 2007, at two of this season's most important watch fairs: the Munich Time show, set for Oct. 30 through Nov. 2, 2008, in Munich, Germany, and the Salon Belles Montres in Paris, set to take place Nov. 28-30.

Established in Geneva in 2005 to celebrate the heritage and values of fine watchmaking, the FHH promotes Swiss watchmaking culture and tradition by communicating the professional and ethical values of authenticity, creativity and innovation on which the industry's legitimacy is founded.

"The FHH has gained the respect and admiration of the fine watchmaking industry as a whole," Jean-Christophe Babin, president and chief executive officer of TAG Heuer said in a press release issued Monday. "We are extremely proud to become an active member and thus demonstrate our commitment to the founding values of haute horlogerie."

More details can be found on the official FHH Web site.

I welcome their addition so hopefully at a future event we'll finally get to see the much talked about yet maligned in both delivery & execution - the Monaco V4 concept.

Economic downturn & the effects on the horlogy industry?

2008-10-29T11:10:00.003-05:00

Much has been said already about the global economic downturn affecting the US and now the rest of the world. So much in fact that it affects our daily thoughts in every aspect of our life. This impact is here to stay with us for unforeseen times thus affecting everything including many of ours horology acquisition and collecting habits. Now I will not go on about what/whom/where/why did it happen nor will I try and predict the future. All I will state is how I see it affecting me/us right not and how I see it developing.

There is definitely a correction from watch market valuation highs from the middle of the year especially evident in the vintage watch markets. The biggest change I see now (and for the future) is in the middle to low market where the effects are clearly evident. The middle to entry level consumers momentarily will see the sharpest decline due to lack of disposable income for luxury objects of desire. I say momentarily because as disposable income becomes available we will see the return en mass because the timepiece in today's digital age is not anymore just a time telling tool but rather the reflection of ones style, persona & emotional desires (very much like ones home, car, clothes, etc). On the other hand there is no abating in the high-end market with clear expansion in the very high-end due to unseciable demand in ever growing numbers of emerging markets new millionaires.

The positive thing of potential reduced demand for watches as a result of this is that finally the supply and manufacturing capabilities of the companies will catch up to true demand. Thus resulting in a move back to the equilibrium including both exuberant pricing increases of the past few years, increase in service and quality control of manufacturing, increase in true watchmaking talent pool & timely deliveries for the true aficionados that will stay in this horology game.

Another positive result evident already is sharp reduction of speculators and flippers which puts a smile on every true watch aficionado dial. In addition I foresee further consolidation in the horology industry with hopefully weeding out the overcrowded field of the weak, lemmings & the inconsequential that benefited from the past half decade of the horology renaissance. All in all as you can see not all news are that bad because once the economic fortunes bounce back (which eventually they undoubtedly will) the industry will emerge much more complete, efficient and stronger – of course this is just my humble opinion which just might be completely wrong.

Cigar Review: Saint Louis Rey – Serie A

2008-10-28T12:25:00.003-05:00

Cigar review: Saint Louis Rey – Serie A Box Code: Nov. 1995

This box was abruptly cracked open after a 13 year sleep in the humidor specifically on my request and generously gifted by a good friend, so big thanks to Viken. I figured this at least deserved a proper review as one doesn’t get a chance to find such home aged treasures so easy. So enough of the chit chat and let’s get into the nitty gritty of things.

As you might see for yourself the wrapper held a nice colorado color and was devoid of any veins (not much plume to report to which I was surprised due to its 13 year old age, but I could have just whipped it off while handling it). I had it a bit on a dry side below 63% RH (still no to dry) to avoid any draw and burn problems - there were none. The draw was excellent, easy and slow yet not to fast to rush the cigar. The cigar provided a nice amount of smoke and created wonderful white and firm ash.
It was truly divine and nothing like I expected it to be (isn't being positively surprised the best thing in the end?). If I was to guess I would have not been even close to SLR Series A as the profile was even mellower then what I was expecting, however the taste was wonderfully complexed. As for taste I was drinking a nice Bordeaux (with my NY strip) so it didn't really jibe perfectly overpowering the cigar which I rectified soon enough by poring a bit of my Caol Ila aka peaty nectar of Gods ;-) Now for the taste there was no harshness of a young cigar to be noticed whatsoever. Also I didn't get any licorice, chocolate or too much cedar taste so easily associated with Series A, but rather the musky meaty earthy tones which later developed into espresso and dark chocolate all over laced with subtitle yet noticeable sweetness that I could only describe as combo of honey and caramel. From my memory the progression from start to finish was not as pronounced as with many younger examples I sampled before although there certainly was a progression it was much more delicate and smooth. The overall flavor of tobacco and cedar was there even though it didn't dominate the palate (as with many fresh cigars) it maintained the presence through, while allowing other flavors to show through and enhance the overall tasting experience. I don't do analytical scoring, however if I did this one would score right there at the top in the category of delicate and refined flavors experiences I had a chance to enjoy.

The biggest mistake I did was not pairing this up with more suitable restrained drinking choice as it certainly did deserve a much superior match. What I gathered from this experience is that really there is no myth of aging cigars that indeed it is a reality - they do get better with age just like fine wine. Now as for the fact that I was perhaps a bit overmatched to truly gouge the subtleties of such a fine example I will plead the 5th.

Update ... I'm baaack!

2008-10-28T11:59:00.004-05:00

First a note of apology to everyone that has been leaving messages and comments of support during my unexpected time off from the blog. I have just been way to busy with day to day life as well sincerely unmotivated due to some past personal & professional issues. The good news is that so many of you have been just been so encouraging and appreciative for all the posts that I simply can not digress anymore or use any lame excuses, but to get back on track.

Note of caution thought! I do like to share my sincere thoughts and not hold back writing in a certain way, but always while inspired and truly immersed in the topics at hand. From now on in order to catch up as well to frequently post I just might throw some posts/pictures/comments together that might not be as I (and You) have been used to. This will not be a lowering of a certain standard that I behold to maintain, but rather a snippet, instead of the usual essay of the daily topic at hand (including my point of view arguments, observations of daily life, recollections and reflections). Hope you enjoy the ride!

Watch News: Decima MAS Strumento XZ 221 further versions

2008-05-05T22:31:00.006-05:00

I have just gotten a confirmation from the makers of the Decima MAS seen in last year review of the Decima MAS Strumento XZ 221 that two additional variations of this Limited Edition model are incoming to market. As you read in the introduction of this piece the XZ221-001 is a water-proof instrument, produced and tested for extreme climatic condition featuring that unique, highly distinctive and IMHO wonderful red chocolate a.k.a. "root beer" dial. Since the watch inception as a dedicated LE of 1941 pieces it was originally planned to have, within this millesemation number, slight yet different variations to distinguish this unique model series even further.

Since then we have seen the addition of all black dial, but the news of the day is that the the new variants of the Strumento XZ will follow closely to the tool heroic roots. Think almost tactical series - an all manual wind 16 lignes movement and an all black case finish!!! Sounds stupendous thus I can't wait for a full debrief.

Due to embargo I can't specify much more, but I should have further detailed information towards the start of next week.

Auction News: Sotheby’s Geneva Evening Sale of Important Watches

2008-04-28T22:53:00.007-05:00

Sotheby’s Geneva Evening Sale will offer Important Watches at Auction on Sunday, May 11th, 2008. Comprising around 200 lots, the sale is highlighted by an important and possibly unique over-sized single button chronograph wristwatch created by Patek Philippe in 1932. Formerly the property of Count Carlo Felice Trossi, this piece is estimated to sell over $2 million.

The “Trossi Legenda” Patek Philippe

Measuring 46 millimeters in diameter, this chronograph is most probably unique and is one of the largest wristwatches ever made by the company. It was clearly specially chosen by Count Trossi as a practical timekeeper for use in motor racing and aviation to assist with the accurate timing of events in a highly visible format. In later years, aviators’ wristwatches were typically large in size and very few were made by Patek Philippe. Only one other wristwatch of similar size by Patek Philippe has appeared on the auction market and that was manufactured some 20 years later with a substantially smaller movement. Count Carlo Felice Trossiwas was born into an aristocratic Italian family 100 years ago on 27th April 1908. Captivated by the possibilities of speed, Count Trossi was a motor car and speed boat racer as well as an early pioneer of flight. In 1932 he became the President of Ferrari Scuderia. The highlights of Trossi’s motoring career culminated in his wins at the Italian and Swiss Grand Prix respectively in the years 1947 and 1948.

Another highlight in the sale is an extremely rare and fine over-sized stainless steel chronograph Patek Philippe wristwatch with register, no.862323, Ref. 530A, dated 1939. Among the four wristwatches with reference 530A known to have been made by Patek Philippe, the example included in the sale is the only one featuring this particular dial. From a private collector, this piece is estimated at CHF700,000-900,000 ($635,000-815,000 ).

Info via Sotheby's and Europastar.

Horology News: Richemont: Unaudited Sales Figures for the financial year ended 31 March 2008

2008-04-28T20:38:00.002-05:00

Some interesting Richemont sales figures data for this past year just released. What we can easily see is almost double digit sales across the whole group areas of business, but especially in the specialty watchmaking groups noted highest sales growth by IWC and Jaeger LeCoultre. Farther geographical breakdown shows the anticipated highest growth in the Asia-Pacific region of 31% (headed by China and Hong Kong) with suspected low teens percentage growth in both Europe and Americas. Interesting how Europe still counts for almost 43% of the total group sales as compared to quarter of Asia-Pacific and one fifth of Americas. Another clue is that Middle East and I assume Russia as well are counted as Europe group sales so it would be very interesting to see a further country breakdowns. Sadly there were no individual brand sales breakdowns for further analysis.

Brand Overview: de Grisogono "say what?"

2008-04-27T23:48:00.001-05:00

de Grisogono .... say what?

History

Who would have when I would have ever talked about watch news from de Grisogono or any other mainly jewelry/fashion oriented brand. This year marks de Grisogono 15th anniversary and the 8th year since it introduced its first watch. They have much to celebrate having accomplished a remarkable amount in its fairly brief history. Founded in 1993 as a Geneva boutique based jewelry maker lauded early for its inventive high-end jewelry pieces and the untraditional use of gemstones. The brands commander and designer in chief, unrestrained and always bold Fawaz Gruosi, is the one always deservedly credited for the continuing growth and success of this brand. Although he never obtained any formal design or horology schooling Gruosi knows and does what he likes and so far it has proven to be a winning strategy. From his love affair with dark gemstones (today he is credited with popularizing black diamonds which are sort of a signature of the brand), to icy white diamonds collection (paired up in combination with pearls and gems), galuchat (highly texture stingray skin), to grey and brown gold and diamonds. You could say anything unusual has crossed it doors and became wildly popular with de Grisogono customers.

In 2000 finally the watches got their turn and Gruosi didn't fail to disappoint. Under the guide of his own preferences for functions Gruosi designed the Instrumento No. Uno which was a bonafied hit and still is the best seller of this young brand. Among the dual functions, large geometric case with mobile lugs, a very distinctive styling and finally the signature touch of a black diamond set in the crown. Followed were annual intros of models comprising of men's and women's various limited and non-limited as well as dress and sport versions. As demand has grown so has their manufacturing but at a measured pace. Operating from the recently expanded Plans-les-Quates workshop they produced approximately 4,000 watches in 2007 and may expand in future up to a self imposed cap of 10,000 watches. As well keeping their distribution exclusive and retail in check, their goal it to establish up to 20 boutiques worldwide.

All this leading up to BaselWorld 2008 with excited rumors of a revolutionary new models including a new movement that would change the way de Grisogono was perceived in the eyes of many horology aficionados. After having a chance to view the new models all I can say is that they certainly succeeded at that.

Otturatore

De Grisogono defied the fundamentals of watchmaking with the launching of its Otturatore, a timepiece combining audacity, refinement and modernism. Aptly named
9Otturatore means shutter) recalling the function of the photo cameras with goood reason as its mobile dial features a sequential display of seconds, date, moon phases and power reserve, with 3 of them always concealed.

By a simple manipulation, the sequential mechanism of the Otturatore can be displaced by 90°, simplifying the display of multiple subdials and indicators which tend to clutter a dial by revealing only one at a time, of course at its owners demand. Building this mechanical module (2892 base with a module made by Soprod) that makes this possible is quite a complex challenge with a lot of thought and R&D needed to accomplish this successfully in house. This highly ingenious, very playful and pleasing function is in principle appearing very simple yet it is deceptively just the opposite.

At a slight press of the buttons (only a millimeter) it has to release enough energy to move the mobile dial by 90 degrees in a few tenths of the millisecond (for the purpose of comparison ordinary chronograph movement takes a few hundreds of a millisecond). Thus this piece needs to sync and performs 15 dynamic functions (command, coupling, uncoupling, mechanical memory, gearing's, etc) in a few tenths of a millisecond taking into account inertia, energy and friction.

What should be notable for this timepiece, brand and horology overall is that until now horological complications usually played the showmanship extroverted part in the execution of a particular function while the Otturatore definitely belongs to the other dimension.

Movement
Automatic DG 037, exclusive De Grisogono/Soprod 9015 calibre, 21,600 vib/h, 39 jewels, 44-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, moon phase, and power reserve indicator

Case
Curved rectangular, 5N 18K pink gold, 31.40 x 32.70 mm
Sapphire front and back
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Silvered, Clou de Paris decoration, in two pieces with bidirectional rotating center
Sequential mechanical display of seconds, date, moon phases and power reserve at 9, 3, 12 and 6 o’clock respectively
Applied hour-markers and dauphine hands in 18K pink gold

Bracelet/Strap
Black crocodile, 18K pink gold double folding clasp

Meccanico DG

De Grisogono ushers in a new era with its creation of the very first mechanical digital display. A veritable horological masterpiece with a movement comprising no fewer than 651 elements, making this mechanical movement one of the most intricate made today. The Meccanico DG features two time zones, it is the first to display both analogue and digital time by mechanical means. This world first - and de GRISOGONO patent! - features a highly complex time mechanism inside a particularly contemporary design.

The MECCANICO dG can be described as a dense cluster of microsystems featuring extremely elaborate cam and gear assemblies. Its exclusive de GRISOGONO handwound mechanical movement comprises 651 components. It is composed of an analogue display of the hours and minutes on the upper dial and a digitally displayed second timezone on the lower dial. The mechanically operated digital display of the second timezone shows tens of hours, single hours, tens of minutes and single minutes, all displayed by mobile microsegments driven by an assemblage of 23 cams connected to a set of gears and a triggering and synchronization system. The time information is displayed by an array of 23 horizontally and vertically positioned micro segments. Vertical segments are 9 mm high and weigh at most 25 milligrams while the horizontal segments measure 2.90 mm in length and weigh only 10 milligrams. The segments have four faces: two opposing visible faces fitted with colored strips and two opposing unmarked faces. Time changes are effected by 90° rotations of the required segment or segments. Involving one to twelve segments, time changes are lightning fast.

Its intricate mechanical systems are visible through its transparent dial plate. Also featuring colored strips, the analogue time displays hour markers seem suspended in thin air so as to reveal the underlying mechanism. Like every de GRISOGONO movement, the MECCANICO dG's own caliber is meticulously finished and its components blackened.

Despite the power needed to generate the double analogue and digital display and the torque required to effect the instantaneous rotation of the digital displays micro segments, the MECCANICO's hand wound mechanical movement, exclusive to de GRISOGONO, provides a power reserve of some 35 hours, visible through a cambered sapphire backplate on a 90° sectoral display on the movement's reverse side.

The MECCANICO dG is expertly fashioned to match its exceptional movement. Notable for large dimensions (56 x 48 mm) and cambered lines, water-resistant to 30 meters (~ 100 feet), this innovating design is available in a choice of styles: titanium, titanium and red gold, titanium and rubber and titanium and platinum. In keeping with the designs futuristic allure, its correctors and the crown guard are fashioned from vulcanized rubber. Its analogue display is set by the crown opposite 3 o'clock while the second timezone is set by a pair of correctors - for hours at left, for minutes at right. Also crafted from vulcanized rubber, the strap is fitted with a deployment clasp buckle featuring the de Grisogono crest.

Driven by an insatiable quest for innovation, the maestro Fawaz Gruosi has achieved what others do not dare to dream, propelling haute horlogerie into a new dimension. Limited edition of 177.

Movement
Hand-wound DG 042, exclusive De Grisogono calibre, 28,800 vib/h, 35-hour power reserve

Functions
Analogue display of hours and minutes in upper part
Mechanical digital display of second time zone in lower part

Case
Curved rectangular in titanium, 18K pink gold, titanium and 18K pink gold, titanium and rubber, or titanium and platinum, 56 x 48 mm
Sapphire front and back
Correctors and crown-cover in vulcanised rubber
Water-resistant to 30 m

Dial
Transparent black
Two time zone displays, analogue and digital mechanical, De Grisogono patent
Green or gold dauphine hands

Bracelet/Strap
Black natural rubber with titanium or 18K pink gold folding clasp

Info via InSync, Swisstime, and de Grisogono.

Brand Preview: Favre-Leuba "the brand that made its comeback"

2008-04-24T13:37:00.017-05:00

Combining past and future

The company has enjoyed its moments of glory, but like so many other old watchmaking companies , it almost disappeared from the horology collective vernaculars. The luck would have it that with the current Horology Renaissance the brand survived the very worst of times and become active again in the watchword with grand plans coupled with re inventive strategy and vigor.

After several takeovers from 1969 onwards (ranging from Bendome SA to LMVH), the watch company finally regained its independence in 2003. During that period a Spanish financier, Roberto Lopez Haba, bought the firm and established a small yet ever growing enthusiastic team. Since everything had to be started from scratch everything had to be moved level by level with overall management given to young Richmond bred CEO Clement Brunet-Moret. The comprised small team armed with the huge number of historical products works in unison with a network of independent specialist on resurrecting the old brand in a new age of haute horologie. The proposed pieces objective is to go beyond the simple measure of time to offer new innovations and functions with refinement in the execution. Targeting this niche market the stated goal is to produce 2,000 pieces per year with a price range from 10,000 to 30,000.

Last year, in a return to its origins, it launched a new mens collection called Mercury and this year with the new Bathy V2. Inspired by the eclipse of the planet Mercury by Venus in 1737 – the year that the Favre Manufacture was officially registered – this collection marks the return of the brand to the center of the watch stage.

Historical roots of the brand

Even though Abraham Favre laid the foundation stone of the Favre-Leuba building almost three hundred years ago, it was from 1940 to 1970 that the brand made its most important technical advances in the field of watchmaking, at a time when it was producing almost 600,000 watches a year. Many of us will have forgotten that Favre-Leuba created the first twin-barrel movements, like the FL 251 calibre and the extra-thin FL 269.

BIVOUAC - The watch for every summit

In 1934, the young ethnologist, Paul-Emile Victor, made his first trip to Greenland. In 1947, this ecology pioneer founded the French Polar Expeditions and went on to lead 31 missions to the Arctic and Antarctic. From 1962 onwards, one instrument emerged as his indispensable companion: the famous Favre-Leuba Bivouac.

1962 – BIVOUAC

The revolutionary BIVOUAC has been regarded as an essential instrument for mountaineers since its launch in 1962. It is equipped with multiple measurement functions, one of which indicates the altitude and the weather based on barometric pressure. The aneroid barometer is a real mechanical marvel that functions by means of a partial vacuum in a metal capsule, which contracts when the air pressure is high and expands when it is low. These variations are amplified and transmitted to a mechanism which, coupled with an altimeter, displays the information on the dial.

– Rotating bezel with mobile altitude scale
– Barometric scale with red marker at 760 mmHg
– Red altimeter-barometer hand

Housed in a stainless steel case, the movement has really been really put through its paces, on all five continents and in all conditions. History will remember the extremely accurate performance of this legendary watch in the most hostile environments, at least for as long as it remembers the adventures of some very exceptional men who loved the great outdoors. Aside from Paul-Emile Victor’s expeditions to the Antarctic mentioned above, there were Michel Darbellay’s first
solo ascent of the Eiger and Walter Bonatti’s first conquest of the north face of the Matterhorn. At the end of his climb, this mountaineering virtuoso said, “I can only praise the good performance of the Bivouac; a marvel and a friend!”

From ice to ocean depths

Before worrying about rust, watchmakers sought a way to combat dust. It was from research into sealing their timepieces against air-born impurities that the first water-resistant watches were born. But it was thanks to the invention of the screw-down
crown that the first truly waterproof watch was made. Since then, diver’s watches have undergone spectacular progress, aided by their use in submarine combat units.

1966 - BATHY

BIVOUAC on left and BATHY on right

It was with the BATHY that Favre-Leuba created the first depth gauge graduated in metres (50 m) and feet (160 ft). Besides indicating the length of time spent underwater, the BATHY gave divers a direct and accurate reading of their depth. The BATHY still embodies the Favre-Leuba spirit: inventing new precision instruments that unite the art of watchmaking and a passion for sport.

– Water-resistance tested to 10 atm
– Unidirectional rotating bezel with 60 notches for calculating diving time
– Decompression stages indicator
– High-resistance glass
– Fluorescent displays

2007 - MERCURY

The Mercury collection (name cleverly combining two unique events: the official registration of the Favre Manufacture in Le Locle in 1737 and an extremely rare eclipse (it occurs only every 396 years) of the planet Mercury by Venus) illustrates Favre-Leuba’s ongoing commitment to quality and inspiration as well as its dedication to perfection.

It comprises three lines: Mercury Chronograph FL 301, Mercury Big Date FL 302 and Mercury Power Reserve FL 303. Each of the timepieces are fitted with automatic movements (currently ETA models with Dubois Despraz module) with additional manufacture-made modules.

Each model in the collection stands out for its unique design and the very meticulous attention paid to the finishing, a succession of brushed or polished surfaces, hallmarking our watchmakers' obsession with perfection. Also noteworthy is the perfect integration of the system of push buttons with the bridge which harmonize perfectly with the shape of the watch case, thus giving strength, refinement and balance to the Mercury collection timepieces. The exposed screws proudly bear engravings of the celebrated hourglass, the logo of our Maison. The back of the case back depicts the eclipse of 1737, a discreet reference to the origins of Favre-Leuba.

The dial is both refined due to its complexity (it is made up of 27 parts), but also powerful due to the volumes of the guilloché and its indexes. More careful observers will notice the presence of the Greek letter sigma, an ancestral indication that the indexes are in solid gold. The use of solid gold for the hands also attests the attention to detail and to quality.

Notoriety and inventiveness have also been built up at the Maison Favre-Leuba through the development of exclusive watchmaking systems. The Mercury collection now introduces the « Embedded Running Indicator » (ERI) and the « Bidirectional / Crown Locking System » (B/CLS).

The ERI (embedded running indicator) is a continuously rotating disc decorated with the hourglass (the logo of the brand since time immemorial). Partially hidden and giving life to the dial, it reflects the duality of the conjunction between Mercury and Venus in the year when Favre-Leuba was founded, and symbolizes the vitality of the timepiece, its inner life.

The innovative and patented B/CLS (bidirectional / crown locking system) which equips all Mercury models prevents the crown from being manipulated accidentally, possibly resulting in unintended changes of the date or time. There are in fact two crowns on the models equipped with this system: an inner crown, which has first to be turned either way (clockwise or anti-clockwise) to unlock the system before the outer crown can be pulled out to adjust the date or time. A red visual indication on the bridge between the two crowns indicates if the system is unlocked. Another innovation of this system is that the movement can be wound up by hand regardless of the position of the B/CLS system. Furthermore it ensures the timepiece remains waterproof at all times, even when the system is unlocked with the outer crown pulled in its adjustment position. It thus provides optimal protection to the calibre which is therefore never exposed to outside air that could vehicle micro-particles or humidity.

The folding clasp, an exclusive and patented Favre-Leuba system, introduces a new spring and pushers technology. And with two pins the strap has a better hold and therefore greater security when these timepieces are used in a sports environment. The buckle has also been designed to limit to the absolute minimum any direct contact between the skin and metal, with the longer part of the strap passing between the wrist and the buckle, thus making it as comfortable to wear as possible.

Price ranges between 10,000- 20,000 CHF's depending on the selected configuration of the model and the materials.

2008 - BATHY V.2

This year at BeaselWorld 2008 the brand presented the prototypes of the new Bathy V2, more than 40 years after its revolutionary impact on the world of diver’s watches, the legendary Bathy is making a major comeback. The Bathy V.2 is equiped with innovative depth meter which functions by means of pressure on a membrane which is still classified although it is unofficially confirmed to be a beryllium copper.

This membrane contracts under the pressure of the water entering the double back resulting in truly impressive deviation of less than 0.18%. Bathy V.2 will be available in three models with three different membranes with depth meters of 45m,150m and 300 meters respectively. Amongst other features it will be a fully automatic movement encased in a complex grade five titanium 46mm case with rotating bezel with large numerals and easily readable over sized hands all held together by a rubber strap.

Mercury Collection - TECHNICAL DATA:

The FL 301 Chronograph Rose Gold

Movement
Calibre FL 301, chronometer certified COSC
Self-winding mechanical movement,
28,800 vib/h, 55 jewels, 297 components
Power reserve of 44 hours.

Functions
Hours, minutes, date
Chronograph with 45 minutes counter Embedded Running Indicator (ERI).

Case
Rose Gold (18K) Diameter 44 mm
Cambered sapphire glass with extra hard anti-reflection coating
Patented Bidirectional / Crown Locking System (B/CLS)
Screwed in caseback and bezel
Screws with Favre-Leuba logo requesting special tool to be unscrewed
Water-resistant to 100 meters in all conditions even with the crown pulled in adjustment position.

Dial
27 components
Galvanic treatment
Exclusive guilloche
Hands and indexes applied in gold (18K) with superluminova, excepted big second in pfinodal Greek Sigma symbol on the dial indicating that the indexes are in solid gold.

Straps
Rubber strap,
Exclusive and patented folding clasp in Rose Gold (18K) with twin safety lock system

The FL 305 Bathy V.2

Movement
Automatic, exclusive FL 305 calibre,
23 jewels, 28,800 vib/h, 224 components, 44-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date.
Depth gauge to 45 meters or 150 feet, decompression-stage indicator, diving-time gauge

Case
Grade 5 titanium, 46 mm
Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal
Screw-down, engraved double back with membrane depth gauge (metres or feet)
Water-resistant to 300 m

Dial
Galvanic black, engine-turned by Favre-Leuba
Rotating flange and large Arabic numerals
Depth indicator in red, yellow or orange
All elements coated with Superluminova

Bracelet/Strap
Grey rubber with buckle

More detailed photos and information can be found on the Favre-Leuba Website.

Horology News: LVMH acquires the Swiss watchmaker Hublot

2008-04-24T13:23:00.002-05:00

Paris, 24 April 2008

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world’s leading luxury group, announces that it has signed an agreement to acquire the Hublot group, a top of the range watchmaker enjoying very strong growth.

LVMH will acquire Hublot from Mr Carlo Crocco, who founded the group in 1980, and a company controlled by Mr Jean-Claude Biver, who has managed ublot since 2004.

Hublot is a brand that is highly complementary to LVMH’s existing watch portfolio comprising TAG Heuer, the world leader in prestigious sport watches and chronographs, the Swiss Watch Manufacturer Zenith, Dior Montres, Louis Vuitton watches sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores, and the watch collections of jewellers Chaumet, Fred and De Beers.

Strong growth potential

Hublot, which has its headquarters and workshops near Geneva, has started building a factory at Nyon to accommodate its expansion plans. Having grown at a rapid pace since 2004, the brand achieved net revenue of more than CHF150 million in 2007 with an excellent profitability. A very significant increase in revenue is expected in 2008.

Today, Hublot has a very selective and efficient distribution network which is limited to 300 stores worldwide.

Hublot has a well-balanced geographic footprint spanning Switzerland, Spain, France, Germany, the US, Latin America, Middle East, Russia, Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore… The brand has recently been launched in China and India and has strong growth potential in Asia, Japan, North America and in certain European markets.

Exceptional watches and chronographs

Hublot offers ranges of exceptional quality watches that are innovative, very differentiated and combining fusions of materials, precious metals, (gold, platinum,…) technological metals (titanium, tantalum…), ceramics, diamonds and natural rubber.

The renowned Big Bang collection includes models equipped with automatic movements whose prices range from €8,000 (steel and ceramic) to over €300,000, integrating precious metals and technical complexity.

A new Big Bang collection for women was launched at the last Basel watch fair with great success.

Finally, the traditional classic line has been recently redesigned using natural rubber, zircon, gold and ceramics.

Carlo Crocco, founder of Hublot, said : “I am happy that Hublot, an innovative brand since is creation, is joining the LVMH group, the world leader in luxury goods, whose creative passion is without any doubt a value that I have always shared.”

Jean-Claude Biver, the architect of the success of the Big Bang collection and the recent strong growth of Hublot, commented: “I am delighted that Hublot will be able to benefit from LVMH’s support and strategic leadership in the luxury goods industry and so maximise its growth potential in the years to come. I am happy to be pursuing this adventure and to be able to contribute to the development of LVMH’s watchmaking division alongside Philippe Pascal.”
Philippe Pascal, Chief Executive Officer of LVMH’s Watches & Jewelry business group, added: “Hublot is a strategic and very complementary acquisition. Its high-end positioning, selective distribution, financial performance and growth potential make Hublot a ‘rising star’. Hublot will strengthen our Watches & Jewelry business group which, over the last three years, has been growing strongly. We are very happy that Jean-Claude Biver will, along with the management team of Hublot, continue on this remarkable journey and contribute his considerable expertise to our development in this promising sector.”

Info via Watchluxus.com

2008 BaselWorld and SIHH: Horology Market Impressions

2008-04-22T12:13:00.004-05:00

2008 BaselWorld and SIHH Impressions

These are in short some of the most prevalent impressions of market trends that I noticed & few of my humble opinions that I would dare to contemplate at this time:

- new various complications by majority of industry in my humble observation for the sake of public shock and awe or as some would say bragging rights rather then for the true sake of practical (if not just useful) horology innovations (excluding a few honorable mentions)

- again like last year prevalent usage of unusual materials (alusic, zenithium, hublonium, tantalum, magnesium, ceramic and lithium) prevalent on the case aesthetic side and to some extent in the movement side of watch making. Definite trend in the across board contribution of all non traditional watch materials, but with notable addition of practical usage of the movement side of things (silicum balance spring, easium carbonitride, ceramic ball-bearings, etc)

- steel and gold seems are no longer the prevailing big guns of the watchmaking arsenal. Brands are continuing to venture down this less-trodden path (from last years bronze of Genta, forged carbon of AP, fusion of materials of Hublot, rusted Titanic steel of Romain Jerome, etc) to new dimensions of materials that were borrowed from many different sectors and in some instances R&D’ed on their own. More on this at a later time.

- reissue of older venerable names of the past as new years models. Some executed perfectly (like the Tribute to Polaris by MJLC) and some following the lead and utilizing it as a new strategy to a lesser extent (IMO Longines and to some extent IWC).

- demand for larger cases is still prevalent even though there is a some easing of that pressure across the board by the resurgence of movement towards less “flashy” if not more restrained case sizes.

- importance of focus on the new “emerging economies” markets (China, Russia, India and Middle East) over the “traditional” markets of Europe and US especially in regards to the top level market segment pieces.

- continuing development into the “bling” segment of horology development due to insatiable appetites of the “nouveaux riches” customers whose rise from common poverty left an ongoing rising demand to show off their newfound riches.

- continuing increase in the average cost of the watches across the segment thus making the accessibility of this hobby of ours further out of reach for many especially when considering the higher brackets of Haute Horology.

More in depth analysis of market, respective brands, selective models and imperative points we are faced to follow.

MJLC News: Construction started on the new building of the Manufacture - Live Video

2008-04-22T11:19:00.006-05:00

On the eve of its 175th anniversary, Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to extend within its natural environment.

Today, April 22, at 4PM CET, Jaeger-LeCoultre marked a historic moment, laying the first stone of new building in Le Sentier, which will extend Antoine LeCoultre’s original workshop and current-day Manufacture. Possible to view live at the JLC's Webcam at Le Club .

The new area will add 9,000 square meters bringing the total surface to 25,000 square meters to the Manufacture by the year 2010.

A commitment to the future of watchmaking

This integration of the Manufacture with its natural setting is obviously also complemented by a concern for the human dimension. To further accentuate this symbiosis between a company and the development of its region, Jaeger-LeCoultre will double the number of apprenticeships offered as soon as the new workshops are operational and will train almost forty new professionals each year. A tour of the facilities for the press and invited guests in honor of the event and the 175th anniversary of the campus will follow.

Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has always chosen to grow exclusively within its historical site, now incorporates 40 different professions under its roof. This approach to development reflects its pioneering spirit and the strength of its global innovation. The certainty of working within an environment that is kept intact by avant-garde methods also contributes to stimulating the creativity of the watchmakers and engineers of an exceptional brand whose achievements have been stirring public passion for almost two centuries through their inventiveness, their reliability and their elegance.

Info via JLC Le Club

SIHH 2008

2008-04-21T16:34:00.002-05:00

Just came back from this years SIHH and boy was this an enlightening fair. I have to admit that the first impressions (as always) are everlasting, but in the end they are enduring only after some time has passed thus making the real sense of it all. I have plenty of literature to go through and to add to the blog for your viewing pleasure as well to include some more press releases, personal impressions about the fairs, brands, models and horology industry as whole. Unfortunately there will not be as many live watch photos from the fair as last year as my main (brand new I might add) 8GB memory card got corrupted and with it majority of images from the personal viewings of watches presented at the SIHH. I will try to catch up ASAP to answer all the backlog of emails and comments. Please stay tuned as soon we will be back to our more regular programming interval ;-)

Horology Market Predictions: Right or Wrong?

2008-04-09T14:50:00.009-05:00

Interesting facet is that the last year conclusions (in my 2007 SIHH report ) of the current market trends displayed were quite accurate by simply looking over this year developments (as well announced novelties for this 2008 SIHH and BaselWorld).

What I wrote last time was :

"The prevalent market trends are:

- cases are growing and becoming larger due to overwhelming demand by the customers no matter what many do think
- with larger case sizes (and sometimes even without) the prices are exponentially increasing. If one would really use this parallel comparison seriously it would almost make you wonder how much each mm in size costs ;-)
- precious materials and in house movements are the norm to exclusivity (and again increasing in pricing)
- daring design experimentation as well usage of new materials (especially in the movement side of things) are the next frontier & reality for the daring few
- everyone taunts innovation & proficiency of their watchmaking yet only few actually deliver

MJLC is (in my humble opinion) the KING!"

Correct Points:

Pretty much I was spot on the ever growing case sizes and commensurately increasing prices (not surprised that even diehard Rolex is jumping to the new tune). They have been prevalent and present thought the whole gamme of horology although with a few notable deviants from that general strategy. More precious (including many rare hard to work with as well pronounce) materials have made their inroads into line ups of most brands. Basically “everyone” announced their “new in house” movements or at least that they’re working on one, thus brining another notch to their “exclusivity” (and escalating pricing). New experimentation with daring designs was a definite positive result of the daring few and even less of those who actually furthered the developments on the movement side of things. Lot’s of different news and announcements promising various effects, however in reality few actual deliveries (especially those that work in real life).

Lastly from everything that I saw from pre announcements again the biggest inroads for me were done by that true Manufacture house of Jaeger LeCoultre with the stunning new Gryotourbillon 2, AMVOX3 and lastly (but not the least) the fantastic reintroduction of legendary Polaris. I have to admit that Vacheron Constantine has me very intrigued with its Quai de I’lle line announcement. More about all the specific favored models at a latter time.

Missed point(s):

The thing is that I probably missed the most important market trend which now I year later seems very obvious which is limited/special editions phenomena that has overtaken almost every haute horology house. I mean just look at the Hublot which has practically used it to a T as its marketing strategy. Panerai, as usual has employed it as well, in addition to further legitimizing its even higher bracket pricing with its newly acquired ”in house” movements. AP is following the path of least resistance - need I really say anything more then yet another color of ROO or Scuba edition. Patek has not abated from this strategy except pushing it more towards the emerging Far East markets. Funny that even conservative stalwart like Rolex is changing its tune as well and introducing some more “Special” and “Anniversary” editions as well. Now Lange is in the game as well and I am sure many else are following the suit.

Hey don’t get me wrong I like to have Limited and Special editions models – not that I have something personal against them. They surely add a dash of exclusivity and some kind of importance when one is able to track them down and purchase the piece. The only thing is when a company does a special or limited edition that is in essence really not that special or that limited per se, what are they really creating? An easy exploitable marketing tool for creating sales without really doing that much additional work? Additional market demand with the today’s not so discerning buyer for that perceived and oh so elusive aura of exclusivity that one gets with those “special” pieces? Lack of ideas or really an easy way out for creating more sales and revenue in this current sizzling horology market? Is there a real one singular correct answer which satisfies all these queries? Whatever the real reasoning behind this all (and I mean from both sides of the looking glass) is that it is working, well at least for now. Since it does it will be exploited to the max until not one person, but the majority of us act collectively with our wallets. Please don’t take me for a pessimist, but rather the constructive critic which only says what is on minds of many which have been in this game of horology for a while now. Many companies have no other choice but to follow the 8 ball and take what is given to them. Many have been transformed from smaller workshop places of horology to parts of the conglomerates and have requirements towards their shareholders. Many have traded their glorious names of the past (together with their contributions to innovation in horology) for the profits of today to what consequence in the long run only the future holds. Despite it all my opinion is that I think we are going in the right direction. Eventually every renaissance (including this horology one) must bloom, grow, and expand to the point of no room to mature anymore and to die out again. No, not to die forever! Instead to refocus and restart again in the new direction (and presumably better one) in the process loosing many of the old bad habits that contributed to its collapse and following the path of positive influence. That I see as I real success coming out of this all. Let’s just hope that our favorites will emerge as survivors stronger then ever and following the other righteous path so beautifully exhibited in many of the great accomplishments seen so many times over the good last part of this decade.

Embeded video about 175 years of the MJLC & the masterpiece that is Reverso Gryotourbillon2

2008-04-09T11:35:00.006-05:00

Jaeger-LeCoultre : Inside Story
Uploaded by ddbparis

SIHH 2008 Preview: Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph Calibres

2008-04-09T01:41:00.002-05:00

Montblanc unveiled its first watch movement manufactured entirely in-house at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva.

On Monday, 7 April 2008 Montblanc's announced the presentation of its very first chronograph featuring a movement developed and manufactured entirely in the company's own workshops - The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph.

This watch is the first one ever to feature a movement that has been developed, produced and assembled in Montblanc's own workshops. The two chronograph movements (the MB R100 handwound calibre and the MB R200 automatic) are yet another highlight in a success story going back more than ten years for Montblanc watches: 'We're very proud of the fact that this first movement of our own further justifies our claim to be a provider of traditional European craftsmanship in the mechanical watch sector. And it means we've set up a further milestone in the success story of Montblanc watch manufacture,' explains Lutz Bethge, CEO Montblanc International. It also means that the Montblanc brand not only joins an exclusive circle of classical watch manufacturers by demonstrating its expertise and professionalism in this market segment, but also underpins something the brand embodies in all its product lines: the practice and cultivation of European craftsmanship and an authentic tradition of manufacturing by hand.

Rieussec: a name that writes the history of time
The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher is dedicated to Nicolas Rieussec, who invented the chronograph in 1821: his was a wooden case containing a clock movement that drove two rotating dials on the lid. Above them was a fixed index that left a drop of ink on the rotating dials whenever a button was pushed. For the first time ever, the device made it possible to record the exact times put up by individual horses at racing events. The principle used gave the chronograph its name and comes from the Greek: chronos for time and graphein for write. It seems only logical that the first watch movement to be developed by Montblanc, which has established itself as the world's leading manufacturer of top-quality writing instruments, should be one that 'writes time'. The principle of the rotating dials was the inspiration for the design of the new Montblanc chronograph and gives the watch its unmistakable appearance.

A stopwatch that fuses tradition and innovation
The Montblanc MB R100 calibre is a hand-wound movement with displays for the time of day, the date and a chronograph that combines classical column wheel operation with a modern vertical plate clutch. The chronograph is operated using a pushbutton in the side of the case at 8 o'clock. The time of day is displayed in an off-centre dial that features a 1 to 31 scale for the date indicator within the hour circle. The movement has two barrels, which generate a 72-hour power reserve. The remaining power reserve is shown on a display at the back of the movement, which can be seen through the sapphire glass cover. Alternatively, Montblanc also offers its own automatic movement, the Montblanc MB R200 calibre.

Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph: a watch for connoisseurs in a limited edition
The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph is a piece for connoisseurs that will be available only in limited numbers: 25 watches in platinum 950, 75 in 18 K white gold and 75 in 18 K yellow gold, together with 125 watches in 18 K red gold. In keeping with traditional watchmaking methods the precious metal cases, measuring 43 millimetres in diameter, are cold-moulded and painstakingly finished by hand. A convex sapphire glass with an antireflective coating on both sides covers the dial while a sapphire glass back cover provides a view of the ornately decorated movement and its visible chronograph mechanism and power reserve display. With its unique combination of features, complex precision mechanics and limited availability, the Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph has all the makings of a much sought-after collector's item.

Specifications:

The case measures 43mm X 14.8mm with 22mm lugs. The crystal is sapphire with AR-coating, as is the display back. It is water resistant to 30 meters. It is available in a rose gold version of 125 pieces, with a platinum version of 25 pieces and a white gold version of 75 pieces.

The movement, the in-house Montblanc Caliber MB R100 is hand-wound, with twin barrels and stop balance wheel. It has 286 parts, with 33 jewels, beating at 28,800 bph and with a power reserve of 72 hours. The plates are Rhodium-plated and circular-grained; Bridge are Rhodium-plated with Geneva stripes. The chronograph features a new type of display on 60-second and 30-minute counters using rotating discs and fixed hands, with a power reserve display on the case back. Monopusher operation at 8 o'clock features column wheel control and a vertical disc clutch.

Info via Montblanc press file

SIHH 2008 Preview: Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar

2008-04-09T01:34:00.002-05:00

Girard-Perregaux revisits the perpetual calendar, incorporating this sophisticated mechanism in the elegant case of a Vintage 1945 Square. Automatically indicating the date, day and month, this timepiece is also the first to be equipped with the all-new Microvar free sprung balance.

With the Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar, the Manufacture has created one of the finest jewels of a collection which has been constantly updated with refinement. Inspired by a rectangular wristwatch created in 1945, Girard-Perregaux has developed this Art Deco derived line, retaining the clean spaces and straight angles, but adopting a square case. The curve of the domed dial and the recessed applique counters play on the depth and spaces.

The attention paid to the details is revealed in all the parts, down to the rounded indices. This timepiece displays the date, day, month and moon phase, automatically taking into account the length of the months and leap years. Its 1461 day (i.e. 4-year) "mechanical memory" takes into consideration the variations in the Gregorian calendar.

This concentrated piece of watchmaking technology requires the combination of hundreds of components, forming a complex architecture. The movement crafted in-house by Girard-Perregaux is visible via the transparent case-back.

The Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar also incorporates an innovation derived from Girard-Perregaux's research in the field of chronometry: the Microvar free sprung balance. This exclusive development by the Manufacture combines a six-screw system and two regulating weights positioned on the rim of the balance, which are used to respectively set the balance of the rim and the rate of the watch. This construction enhances the excellence of the timepiece, fully expressing Girard-Perregaux's know-how.

Specifications:

Pink gold case

Dimensions: 34.20 x 32 mm
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back secured by 4 screws
Water resistance: 30 meters

Girard-Perregaux movement Ref. GP0033Q0

mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 ½ ’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions: hour, minute, perpetual calendar, moon phases indicatorAlligator strap with folding buckle

Also available with a white gold case and/or a black dial.

Info via Girard Perregaux press file.

SIHH 2008 Preview: Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante

2008-04-09T01:28:00.002-05:00

Girard-Perregaux presents a world premiere: the first Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante. A remarkable tribute to the Manufacture's heritage, this timepiece reveals an unprecedented combination of some of the most sophisticated complications.

In around 1880, Constant Girard would develop one of the most effective and most accurate time measurement instruments of its era: a Rattrapante Chronograph with Foudroyante second, housed in a pocket watch. Nine years later, he would pull off another feat: his Tourbillon with three gold Bridges, a prize-winner at the Paris Universal Exhibition. In 2008, Girard-Perregaux is once more making use of these complex mechanisms, taking on a new challenge: combining all these complications in a perfectly proportioned wristwatch.

Only thirty-three connoisseurs will be able to own this uncommon watchmaking combination. Mass production has no place in this exceptional field: some five hundred and seven components are assembled by hand to make up the complete movement housed in the pink gold case, following the stringent rules of a watchmaking art that prizes special achievements.

In presenting this timepiece, Girard-Perregaux is remaining true to its tradition, and is continuing the development of its models with rattrapante and foudroyante second, which are among its most spectacular Haute Horlogerie creations. The rattrapante chronograph can register split times, during sports events for example. In this case it is supplemented by a foudroyante second, which runs in a counter at 9 o'clock: the hand makes a complete turn of its dial in one second, while imperceptibly marking a stop time every sixth of a second.

Lit up by the graceful Tourbillon with gold Bridge, the design of this timepiece is the be-all in elegance. Its host of complications blends into a harmonious dial which takes the expertise of the master-watchmaker, who knows that perfection is concealed in the most delicate details. The fine chronograph and rattrapante hands are superimposed when stopped. The rattrapante function is made especially discreet by the model only having two push-pieces: the one at 2 o'clock controls the rattrapante hand, while the one at 4 o'clock starts, stops and resets the chronograph. To complement the creation, the case lugs ensure a perfect fit on the wrist.

There are other sophistications specific to this movement. Girard-Perregaux improves the chronometric developments by equipping the rattrapante with an isolating device that ensures a constant balance amplitude. The foudroyante second mechanism is also ingeniously designed, to enable it to be combined with a Tourbillon.

Specifications:

Pink gold case

- Diameter: 44 mm
- Height: 17.10 mm
- Sapphire crystal
- See-through case-back secured by 6 screws
- Water resistance: 30 metres

Girard-Perregaux movement GP9973 mechanical with manual winding

- Tourbillon with gold Bridge, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- Calibre: 14 ½ ’’’Height: 9.30 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
- Jewels: 43Power reserve: minimum 96 hours (4 days)
- Tourbillon cage: 69 components, 0.4 grams
- Functions: hour, minute, small second on the Tourbillon, date, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- 507 parts
- Alligator strap with folding buckle

Limited and numbered edition of 33 pieces.

Info via Girard Perregaux press file.

Superb Video featuring the marvelous JLC Reverso Gyrotourbillon2

2008-04-07T22:14:00.006-05:00

Take a look at this amazing video featuring the spectacular Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso GyroTourbillon2 . Simply marvelous and definitely worth spending some time to admire all the precise work put in this creation by the very best of the talented watchmaking team from the Grande Maison.

Again fantastic work by the whole MJLC team both in creation of this masterpiece as well as such suitable promotion vehicle. Bravo!

SIHH 2008 Preview: Vacheron Constantin Overseas

2008-04-07T10:47:00.009-05:00

Across Land and Sea, Vacheron Celebrates Travel with Two New Overseas Models

Two years after celebrating the Overseas’ tenth anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has added two new models to this line, which is dedicated to the spirit of travel: the watch Overseas Dual Time, combining useful functions with a diamond setting, and a new pink gold version of the now-famous Overseas Chronograph.

The well-named Overseas is the line for frequent travelers, a line that crosses land and sea, that transcends time-zones. Since their launch in 1996, Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas watches have been faithful companions to international travelers who appreciate technical and aesthetic excellence.

They are also ideal for anyone looking for a time-measuring instrument that reflects their character: dynamic and sporty, elegant and distinguished. Vacheron Constantin’s two exceptional new models - the Overseas Dual Time and the pink gold Overseas Chronograph – are both invitations to travel.

History

Travel and the desire to explore the world has always been part of the Vacheron Constantin spirit. Jacques Vacheron started the trend in 1810, traveling throughout Europe and selling his watches to the rich and powerful. As the manufacture expanded, his journeys became longer and more frequent. François Constantin, who took over in 1819, traveled even further afield, presenting the brand’s masterpieces around the world. About 1930, the brand noticed that a good number of its customers were regularly crossing the seas and oceans on business or for pleasure. Its response was a stainless steel watch for active, enterprising travellers, brought out in 1932.

Since 1973, Vacheron Constantin has established itself as a pioneer of the ultra-functional stainless steel timepieces that the period craved, to such a degree that the Overseas is now one of the most successful watches in its category. It was hardly a surprise when the brand marked its 222nd anniversary in 1977 with the launching of a rather unusual steel watch. Bearing the code name 222, its one-piece case featured a screw-down “porthole” bezel, creating a robust entity designed for intensive use in a hostile environment. Equipped with an integrated bracelet, the watch 222 had highly legible luminous hands and hour-markers and was offered in gold, steel or a combination of both. Thanks to a crown protected by two water-resistant gaskets, the watch 222 was water-resistant to 120 meters. And what was rare for the period, the case was fitted with an anti-magnetic shield.

Contemporary in spirit and absolutely functional, the watch 222 was the first quality watch to be designed for travel and adventure, and can be legitimately viewed as the precursor of the Overseas line.

Functionality and legibility

In 1996, Vacheron Constantin decided to launch a new line of timepieces for travelers: the Overseas. With their clean, naturally elegant lines, these highly technical watches have been one of the most successful in the genre. Dedicated to travel and to today’s explorers, the Overseas models have won many admirers thanks to their classical and dynamic styling, remarkable functionality and excellent legibility.

In 2006, the Overseas’ 10th anniversary was celebrated with the launching of the Dual Time with a second time zone - one of the most useful functions for frequent travelers - as well as a yellow gold chronograph.

2008: two years after the line’s 10th anniversary, the new Overseas Dual Time models are presented in pink or white gold, diamond-set and on white straps.

The model Overseas Dual Time features a date and two other very practical complications: a second time zone and a power reserve. Its 18K 5N pink or white gold case, generous 42-mm diameter and clear-cut, harmonious lines give this timepiece a very strong character.

The white gold bezel, whose design is reminiscent of the manufactures characteristic Maltese cross, creates a soft contrast. Set with precious stones that conform to the most stringent criteria in terms of purity, color and size, it shimmers with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds.

This watch also has a solid caseback stamped with the “Overseas” medallion, a two-masted sailing ship. Thanks to its screw-down crown, this veritable jewel of elegance is water-resistant to a depth of 15 Atm equivalent to approximately 150 meters.

A dial with exceptional finishing and excellent legibility.

A complicated watch in every respect, the Overseas Dual Time is a perfect example of the exceptional technical and aesthetic savoir-faire of the watchmakers and craftsmen at Vacheron Constantin.

The matte white varnished dial, with its luminescent, pink gold leaf-shaped hands, provides perfect legibility for reading the various indications.

The Vacheron Constantin 1222 SC self-winding movement beats at 28,800 vibrations an hour. Besides the central hours, minutes and seconds, the Dual Time features a second time zone on a rhodium-plated opaline sub-dial at 6 o’clock, to which a small day/night hour indicator is attached. This means the wearer will be able to keep track of the time, anywhere in the world.

Harmoniously positioned at 2 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively are a silvered opaline date dial, numbered from 1 to 31, and a rhodium-plated opaline 40-hour power reserve indicator.

Like every Overseas model, the watch Dual Time features an anti-magnetic shield. Researched and developed by Vacheron Constantin, this means that, no matter where the owner is, her timepiece will not be affected by magnetic forces, which influence both the running and accuracy of the watch. A further important addition to this watch’s aesthetic and technical qualities.

New white straps, in alligator leather or rubber

Diamonds sparkle at their brightest when they come together with luminous materials, one of the reasons why Vacheron Constantin decided to deck out the watch Overseas Dual Time with a white vulcarbonised rubber strap.

Delivered with this very trendy strap is the main one, in alligator leather, also in white, and featuring a triple folding clasp in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold.

2008: precious, elegant in any situation, and ideal for long journeys, the emblematic Overseas Chronograph is now presented in pink gold

In response to the success of the first Overseas Chronograph in stainless steel, Vacheron Constantin brought out the same model in yellow gold in 2006 as part of the line’s 10th anniversary celebrations.

To follow up the success of this emblematic model, Vacheron Constantin now presents the self-winding Overseas Chronograph in a new pink gold version.

The sporty, stylish 42-mm case displays all the qualities associated with the collection. With its sleek lines, Maltese-cross-inspired bezel, luminescent hour-markers, screw-down push-pieces, water-resistance to a depth of 15 Atm equivalent to approx.150 meters, and the Overseas’ emblematic two-masted sailing ship motif engraved on the solid caseback, the new pink gold Overseas Chronograph is a worthy descendant of the Vacheron Constantin tradition of distinguished chronographs that look elegant in any situation.

The case has a strong and instantly-recognizable design and its large anthracite dial clearly sets off all the useful functions offered by the Vacheron Constantin 1137 movement, which beats at a rate of 21,600 vibrations/hour.

As well as its classical functions – hours, minutes and seconds - the pink gold Overseas Chronograph features two counters: 30 minutes at 3 o’clock and 12 hours at 9 o’clock. The date is displayed in an oversized window at 12 o’clock.

As the pink gold hands and hour-markers are coated with a white luminescent material, this unpretentious yet sophisticated design provides optimal legibility in any circumstances.

In keeping with all the models in the line, the new pink gold Overseas Chronograph is equipped with an anti-magnetic shield that protects the movement and complex gear-trains from disturbances caused by local magnetic fields. A major advantage that will not go unnoticed by travellers who are constantly on the move.

The new Overseas Chronograph comes with a choice of 3 straps: pink gold, hand-sewn alligator leather, or dark-brown vulcarbonised rubber

Designed along very strict ergonomic lines, the Overseas Chronograph’s pink gold bracelet has an exclusive shape - a succession of half-Maltese-cross links – that gives it a precious and particularly refined look. With its triple folding clasp and double pushpiece locking system, this meticulously polished and satin-finished bracelet is incredibly supple and comfortable.

For sportier travellers, the pink gold Overseas Chronograph is also available on an elegant dark-brown, hand-sewn alligator strap, which is delivered with a second, more casual vulcarbonised rubber strap, also in dark brown.

Specifications:

Reference 47751/000G-9351 and 47751/000R-9351

Movement: 1222 SC, Self-winding mechanical
Anti-magnetic protection
Height of movement 4.90 mm
Diameter of movement 26.60 mm
Jewelling 34 rubies
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour

Indications: Hours, minutes, central seconds
Power reserve
2nd time zone with day / night indicator
Date hand

Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours

Case: 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold
Set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.90 ct)

Water-resistance 15 ATM, equivalent to a depth of 150 meters

Dial: Matte white varnish.
Slate day / night indication
10 applied hour-markers in 18K 5N pink gold with white luminescent strip

Strap: White hand-stitched, square-scaled alligator leather
Delivered with a second strap in white vulcarbonized rubber.

Clasp: 18K white gold or 5N 18K pink gold triple-blade, double-safety folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross

Reference 49150/B01R-9338 and 49150/000R-9338

Movement: 1137, Self-winding mechanic
Anti-magnetic protection
Height of movement 6.60 mm
Diameter of movement 26.20 mm
jeweling 37 rubies
Frequency 21,600 vibrations/hour

Indications: Hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock
Column-wheel chronograph
12-hour and 30-minute counter
Large date at 12 o’clock

Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours

Case: 18K 5N pink gold

Water-resistance 15 ATM, equivalent to a depth of 150 meters

Dial: Anthracite 12 applied 18K 5N pink gold hour-makers in with white luminescent strip

Strap: Polished and satin-finished 18K 5N pink gold or
Hand-stitched, square scaled, dark brown alligator leather
Delivered with a second strap in dark brown vulcarbonized rubber

Clasp: 5N 18K pink gold triple-blade, double-safety folding clasp polished half Maltese cross

SIHH 2008 Preview: Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile Collection Concept

2008-04-07T09:19:00.018-05:00

Vacheron Constantin introduces Quai de l’Ile

Personalization, service, security, innovation: Spotlight on tomorrow’s watchmaking

The new Quai de l’Ile line from the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture introduces a unique dimension in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Personalized to meet the client’s wishes, this resolutely contemporary watch combines the most advanced technologies with the finest horological savoir-faire. Innovative, original, contemporary and sophisticated, the Quai de l’Ile line meets the demands of tomorrow’s Haute Horlogerie: personalization, security, service, excellent workmanship and savoir-faire.

With its new Quai de l’Ile line – named after the brand’s historic Geneva address – the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture reveals its pioneering character while drawing on over two and a half centuries of experience.

The case is revolutionary, the dial incorporates a whole range of security-printing technologies, the two self-winding mechanical movements – stamped with the Geneva Hallmark – have been designed and developed at Vacheron Constantin, and the product’s accessories – box, passport, USB key and multimedia elements – break new ground in the world of watchmaking.

Characterized by both technology and tradition, this combination of elements constitutes the unique genetic heritage of Vacheron Constantin’s new Quai de l’Ile line, an innovative and resolutely contemporary line that embodies the notions of service and the special relationship with the customer.

Personalization, the ultimate luxury

Personalization is the ultimate expression of luxury. It is also the elemental link in the relationship between a customer and brand, between expectations and service. It is to strengthen this link and to offer a unique experience to its clientèle that Vacheron Constantin has developed a concept of personalization that is totally new in Haute Horlogerie, a world first in fact. Thanks to the Quai de l’Ile case and its remarkable seven-piece middle, the customer can choose from three metals, two dials & two different finishes on the movements to realize the watch of his dreams. While the cushion shaped case allows for an infinite number of combinations, Vacheron Constantin is offering almost 400 for this year’s launching.

Quai de l’Ile: a name, a history, a symbol

The Quai de l’Ile has been Vacheron Constantin’s historical address in Geneva since the 19th century, ever since Jean-François Constantin (1829-1900) had a building constructed there in 1873-1874. A visionary, he already felt the need to give the manufactory a place which would help it stand out in the world of Geneva’s Haute Horlogerie and give it a more international dimension. This address soon became the symbol of an incomparable quality of service with the creation of personalized Haute Horlogerie timepieces that reflected the brand’s motto, “Do better if possible, which is always possible”.

Dynamic character

Designed in the dynamic of a sophisticated and contemporary line, the instantly identifiable Quai de l’Ile case expresses the tradition behind Vacheron Constantin’s 250+ years of history as well as the line’s resolutely innovative character. The case is cushion-shaped in the spirit of several historical models and its modernity is underscored by its dynamic character, fluid lines and original shapes, all of which give it a subtle balance.

Avant-garde technologies

The Quai de l’Ile’s complex mechanism can be seen through the line’s semi-transparent dials, which are an innovative blend of the world of watchmaking and sophisticated, top-secret technologies of security printing. Art and cutting-edge technology, extreme precision and aesthetic creativity come together in these exclusive and secure dials, which have four patents pending.

The Manufacture’s signature

The new Quai de l’Ile line will be launched with two models: the Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding and the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding. Both movements are stamped with the prestigious Geneva Hallmark. Designed, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, these state-of-the-art movements are coated with rhodium or ruthenium and visible through the dial. As well as indicating the hours, minutes and central seconds, the 2460QH calibre displays the date by means of
a disc, while the 2475SC/1 calibre displays the date, day of the week and power reserve with hands.

Pair of straps

Each Quai de l’Ile model is delivered with two straps: one in black or dark-brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square-scaled alligator leather; the other in dark-brown or black vulcanized rubber, with a refined and elegant design. Both types of strap come with a new triple-folding, double-safety clasp with a half-Maltese-cross flap. Specially designed for the Quai de l’Ile line, this clasp matches
the heart of the case and has a polished (palladium or pink gold) or satined(titanium) finish.

Secure environment

Vacheron Constantin was determined to push to the limits the concept of security that is the hallmark of the Quai de l’Ile line. The innovative product environment is an integral and extended part of the security and inviolability that characterize the dials. A Vacheron Constantin passport offering similar standards of protection and quality as a Swiss passport will accompany every watch in the line for its
lifetime. An innovative box, a USB key and a multimedia tool - all very original elements for a Haute Horlogerie watch - have been designed to correspond in every way to the watch’s contemporary character.

Pushing back the limits

With its sophisticated and contemporary character, the new Quai de l’Ile line (identified by its cushion shape) will develop alongside Vacheron Constantin’s two main pillars, the Malte (tonneau) and the Patrimony (round). It will be distinguished by its sophisticated technologies and its distinctive concept of personalization. The launching of the Quai de l’Ile line represents a milestone in Vacheron Constantin’s history, with the concept of personalization pushing back even further the limits of
exclusiveness that the Geneva-based manufacture has made its own.

Quai de l’Ile - The ultimate luxury of personalization

With its novel concept of personalization, the Quai de l’Ile line has given Haute Horlogerie a new dimension.

Sophisticated, bold and resolutely innovative, this contemporary line has achieved the feat of marrying the most sophisticated technologies to over 250 years of horological savoir-faire. As a result, Vacheron Constantin is determining the shape of tomorrow’s watchmaking.

Transparency and architecture

A watch from the new Quai de l’Ile line makes an immediate impact. Its semi-transparent dial is fascinating, its suspended displays astonishing, its distinguished, modern case appealing and its combination of materials intriguing. The case has been designed and developed in a resolutely avantgarde and architectural dynamic and lies at the heart of the personalization process. With a dial embodying the very latest security-printing technologies and a cushion-shaped case, the designers opted for a theme of transparency and avant-garde design. The technology invested in the case, as well as the vigour and power that emanate from it, will satisfy the most demanding enthusiasts of technical prowess, luxury and exclusiveness.

Almost 400 combinations

The personalization concept at the heart of the Quai de l’Ile line is unique in the world of Haute Horlogerie, a line that is midway between models from the Collection – entirely designed and made in the Manufacture – and the 100% made-to-measure watches from the Atelier Cabinotiers Special Order department. Personalization is based on four elements: the seven-piece case and middle, the dial with the latest security-printing technologies, the movement finishing, and the strap. In total, there are almost 400 combinations from which to create an exceptional timepiece that mirrors the wearer’s personality.

The Quai de l’Ile line will be launched with two models in 2008: the Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding (calibre 2460QH) and the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding (calibre2475SC/1). In the first instance, only the latter will be available in a personalized version in 100 exclusive sales points (Vacheron Constantin boutiques and retailers carefully selected for their quality of service).

First, the personalized watch is envisaged and designed by the future buyer with the aid of an interactive tactile screen developed by Vacheron Constantin and a set of material and color samples. It then enters its production cycle in Geneva and will be delivered within a few weeks, as agreed on beforehand with the client.

Avant-garde design

There is no need to explain to connoisseurs that the Quai de l’Ile cushion case is an avant-garde reinterpretation of a classic watch shape. Like legendary cars that are constantly redesigned to anticipate changes in style, the Quai de l’Ile case is the expression of an avant-garde watch conception, but one which is perfectly faithful to Vacheron Constantin’s stylistic spirit. In their search for fluidity, visually perfect curves, an assertive character and dynamism, the engineers and designers at Vacheron
Constantin explored the limits of these areas and created the case that today symbolizes Vacheron

Constantin’s concept of personalization - Quai de l’Ile

At the heart of personalization: the case

The innovative personalization of the Quai de l’Ile line is made possible by the unique 7-part construction of the case and middle.

Along with the other components of the watch – movement, dial and strap – this extraordinary construction means that Vacheron Constantin can offer almost 400 different combinations for the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding model.

While the middle – one of the components of a case – is normally a single element, Vacheron Constantin’s personalization concept is based on an assembled 7-part case comprising the following elements:

- Lateral flank at 3 o’clock
- Lateral flank at 9 o’clock
- Lugs at 12 o’clock
- Lugs at 6 o’clock
- Inter-lug piece at 12 o’clock
- Inter-lug piece at 6 o’clock
- Support plate

In addition to these 7 parts, the 41 mm case middle includes:

- Titanium inner case for all models
- Bezel
- Back
- Crown

Three groups of components

In its concern to preserve the aesthetic harmony of the whole and not wanting to make an impact with tens of thousands of combinations, though this would be technically possible, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture opted for a carefully planned personalization system. For this reason, it has defined three groups of components:

- Heart of the case (lugs + inter-lug pieces + back)
- Bezel
- Lateral flanks and support plate

The crown can also be personalized, but it has to be made of the material chosen for one of the other three groups.

A choice of three metals in any combination

The Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding can be personalized with a choice of three metals - 5N pink gold, titanium and palladium - for each of the three groups of components, and in any combination. This is the first time Vacheron Constantin has ever used titanium and palladium in one of its standard collections.

Pink gold (Au).

Titanium (Ti).

Palladium (Pd).

Besides the Quai de l’Ile watches that can be personalized in almost 400 combinations, Vacheron Constantin decided to offer a standard Quai de l’Ile line, comprising two models for its launching this year:

- Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding (calibre 2460QH)
- Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding (calibre 2475 SC/1)

Both models will be available in three different versions:

- Middle, back, bezel and crown in palladium – grey dial – rhodium-plated movement
- Middle, back, bezel and crown in pink gold – light dial – rhodium-plated movement
- Middle, back, bezel and crown in titanium – dark dial – ruthenium movement

Quai de l’Ile - At the heart of innovation: the dial

The dials of the Quai de l’Ile line are to watchmaking what the latest security printing techniques for bank notes are to the Gutenberg press. Light years apart!

These semi-transparent dials, which have four patents pending, are safeguards against
counterfeiting, integrating secret texts, micro-printing, security inks and UV markings using invisible ink. While incorporating the very latest advances in technology, they also present a magical visual effect.

For the first time, an Haute Horlogerie brand has joined forces with the world of security printing, that of bank notes and other documents that cannot be forged. Some of the most secret technologies have been used to produce the safest dials ever made, dials with truly innovative graphics that are absolutely faithful to the Vacheron Constantin spirit.

At the crossroads of art and the most sophisticated printing techniques, the spectacular dials of the Quai de l’Ile line are both eye-catching and intriguing.

With strange depths, striking contours, subtle interplays of transparency and opaqueness, alternating visible and invisible elements, precision markings and micro-printing, there is nothing remotely similar with the dial of an ordinary watch.

With the Quai de l’Ile watch, Vacheron Constantin is taking Haute Horlogerie into a new dimension.

Protection against counterfeiting

Orell Füssli Security Printing Ltd, printers of bank notes and Swiss passports, accepted for the first time to put its highly specialized savior-faire at the service of the watch industry. To give a more artistic dimension to this very technical process, Vacheron Constantin called on the services of Mr Roger Pfund, an internationally renowned Swiss designer who, among other things, has produced the graphics for many bank notes, both Swiss and foreign. He has designed the present
Swiss passport.

The Quai de l’Ile dials are remarkable for their technical features as well as their spectacular decorations, which in no way hinder the perfect legibility of the information they display. Other indications and markings are invisible in normal conditions, making these dials the most secure on the market.

This ultra-sophisticated dial, therefore, gives the Quai de l’Ile models complete protection against the scourge of counterfeiting.

Futuristic processes on sapphire

Technically, the Quai de l’Ile dials comprise two main elements:

- A sapphire crystal
- A security polymer

The sapphire crystal is an amalgam of cutting-edge techniques and refined processes, in particular those of:

- Laser engraving (with or without inking)
- Galvanic growth of metal, gold-plated
- Metallization

A sun alludes to the history of Vacheron Constantin

The dials on both models in the new line are illuminated by the sun, also produced by the metallization process. It is inspired by the clock on the Tour de l’Ile in Place Bel-Air, in the Saint-Gervais district of Geneva. At one time, all the watchmakers on the square set their watches and clocks by it.

An allusion to Vacheron Constantin’s past as well as a key security feature of the dial, the invisible ink disc affixed to the back of the security polymer (at the centre of the sun) can only be seen with a UV lamp.

This distinctive sign is also on the passport which comes with each watch.

The three secrets of the security transparent film

Stuck under the sapphire crystal, the security transparent film – the same one used for printing on bank notes – is made from a special chemical compound.

This security transparent film guarantees complete protection against counterfeiting, once it has been subjected to various products and extremely precise operations, like:

- The printing of micro-characters
- The use of security inks
- UV markings using invisible ink

On the movement side, the security transparent film has a pattern of hundreds of Maltese crosses and concentric circles. Depending on the version, it is printed with white or black ink.

On the dial side, the security transparent film has a pattern of concentric lines representing the spiral of time. These also serve as a seconds track. These lines – or rays – are printed alternately with light-grey and sepia ink or with light-grey and white ink.

A choice of two dials (dark or light) for 3 different effects

Three dial finishes are offered on all Quai de l’Ile versions:

- Grey – dark dial with a rhodium-plated movement
- White – light dial with a rhodium-plated movement
- Black – dark dial with a ruthenium movement

2475 SC/1 caliber (Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding)
&
2460 QH caliber (Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding)

Although the Quai de l’Ile line is the expression of a very contemporary language, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture never forgets the legitimacy it has earned in the watch industry from over 250 years of uninterrupted activity.

Accumulated experience and patiently acquired savoir-faire nourish the day-to-day thinking that goes into developing new mechanisms. Designed, developed and produced in-house, the 2475SC/1 and 2460QH calibres, which will power the first models of the Quai de l’Ile line, have grown out of this dynamic.

An exceptional timepiece needs an exceptional movement.

Respecting this principle, as it has for over 250 years, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture decided to equip the first models in its new Quai de l’Ile line with two of the very latest generation of self winding movements, developed and produced by the Manufacture and stamped with the famous Geneva Hallmark, the distinctive and prestigious sign of Haute Horlogerie.

Besides bearing the Geneva Hallmark, both movements are meticulously finished, in the Haute Horlogerie tradition: this includes Côtes de Genève decorations (circular on the dial side, straight on the movement side), chamfered, rhodium-plated bridges, and circular-grained plates.

Choice of finishing with both movements:
- Rhodium (light)
- Ruthenium (dark)

For the 2460QH calibre (Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding): Hours, minutes and central seconds, with an additional plate for the date disc. This date function has a novel feature: it is the disc that moves, not the numbers. The visual effect is of a date that “moves” every day to a different place on the dial.

For the 2475SC/1 calibre (Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding): Hours, minutes and central seconds, with an additional plate displaying the power reserve, date, and day of the week with hands.

These exemplary finishings have a special three-dimensional effect thanks to the unique interplay of transparencies created by the line’s sapphire crystal and by the view it provides into the heart of the mechanical movement.

To provide optimal legibility of the dial’s hour-circle, the two movements have a snailed exterior ring, rhodium - or ruthenium-finished depending on the version.

Finally, a new rotor has been developed – its design inspired by the back of the case - to reflect the spirit of the line. Made in ruthenium-finished 22K gold, it is distinguished by its pure lines, which are enhanced by five embossed fillets.

Quai de l’Ile - Meticulously planned environment

Everything for the Quai de l’Ile line has been meticulously planned. And coherence has been the watchword throughout the whole creative process, from designing the mechanical movements to making the presentation box.

The elements comprising the product environment have been subject to the same innovation, personalization and security criteria as those applied to the creative process of the timepiece itself.

The introduction of the Quai de l’Ile line has been an opportunity for Vacheron Constantin to totally re-think its approach to the product environment and to develop its role as a “citizen’s brand” by constructing solid bridges between the watch, its strong character and the set of elements designed to accompany it throughout its life. It has achieved this by not hesitating, when it is justified, to modernise the traditional characteristics of Haute Horlogerie. In so doing, Vacheron Constantin has
once again showed itself to be an innovator.

The new box has a resolutely contemporary and refined design: an unusual vertical shape, an integrated “display-case” window for admiring the watch at all times, even when it is closed, and a more compact size than a standard box of similar quality.

It has been designed to contain all the accessories that come with the new Quai de l’Ile watch. It holds a small travel pouch, lighter and more practical, that can also hold the watch and its accessories. Its size has been optimized to take up as little room as possible and to ensure that the owner can feel perfectly confident about safely carrying the watch in it.

As well as the watch, the pouch will hold all the Quai de l’Ile line accessories:

- A real passport: unique and dedicated to the watch,
- A USB key: with instructions for use, maintenance tips, technical information, a presentation of the manufacture, its history and its savoir-faire, photos, animated sequences, etc. The instructions for use are only printed in French and English to save on paper,
- Tools: a magnifying glass, a corrector pencil for the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding model, and a microfiber cloth,
- Second strap in alligator leather or rubber.

Info via Vacheron Constantine press file

SIHH 2008 Preview: Officine Panerai

2008-04-07T08:37:00.014-05:00

PAM00297 Luminor GMT 44mm
Case: brushed steel
Dial: black dial, bracelet brushed steel with polished surface between the links

PAM00299 Luminor Marina Automatic 44mm
Case: brushed steel case, polished bezel
Dial: black dial, bracelet brushed steel with polished surface between the links

PAM00310 Luminor Chrono 40mm
Case: brushed steel case, polished bezel
Dial: black dial adjustable buckle

PAM00311 Luminor 1950 titanium 8 days
Chrono monopulsante GMT 44mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P2004 - 8 days chrono hand wound
Dial: brown sandwich

PAM00317 Luminor 1950 ceramic 8 days
Chrono monopulsante GMT 44mm
Case: ceramic and bezel
Movement: P2004 - 8 days chrono hand wound
Dial: black sandwich

PAM00306 Luminor 1950 titanium Tourbillon GMT 47mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: dial brown sandwich historic titanium buckle

PAM00315 Radiomir titanium Tourbillon GMT 48mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: brown sandwich with pink gold ring historic titanium buckle

PAM00316 Radiomir platinum Tourbillon GMT 48mm
Case: Platinum bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: black sandwich with pink gold ring radiomir white gold adjustable buckle

Special Editions:

PAM00309 Radiomir 47mm (black dial)
Case: 47mm, brushed titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XXVII (Minerva hand wound)
Dial: Black Sandwich with pink gold ring

PAM00322 Radiomir 47 MM (brown dial)
Case: 47mm, brushed titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XXVII (Minerva hand wound)
Dial: Brown Sandwich with pink gold ring

PAM00026 Luminor Marina Destro 44 MM
Case: 44mm, brushed steel with special hard black coating
Movement: Panerai OP II
Dial: Black sandwich

PAM00308 Luminor Regatta Chronograph 44mm
Case: 44mm, brushed steel
Movement: Panerai OP XXVI, COSC
Dial: Black with Paris Hobnails

PAM00307 Luminor 1950 Pangaea Submersible Depth Gauge 47mmM
Case: 47mm, titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XV, COSC
Dial: Blue

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Ulysse Nardin Sonata Silicium

2008-04-06T23:58:00.004-05:00

Ulysse Nardin’s revolutionary use of materials continues, with the use of silicium in all its new models. The dial, micro-precision components, exclusive spring, oscillator, anchor and escapement, developed in collaboration with ASRH (Swiss Association for Horological Research), are technical features used in the movement and design of this latest model.

With the Sonata Silicium Limited Edition, Ulysse Nardin demonstrates the versatile use of silicium in watch making, including the production of micro precision components for our watch movements and for aesthetic use in the manufacture of watch dials.
The dial of the SONATA SILICIUM is cut out of a silicium wafer in its striking natural color; so too is the logo inlay on the winding rotor visible through the exhibition sapphire back of the case. The movement runs with a 28’800 A/h oscillator and an anchor escapement etched out of silicium. This escapement is the result of a research program which ASRH conducted and in which Ulysse Nardin participated. Both the anchor and escapement wheel are manufactured of silicium. In addition, 3 of the innovations first presented in August 2007 and tested within Ulysse Nardin’s InnoVision program have found their way into a serial product and are applied for the first time in a commercialized timekeeper.

* The front side/back side etched anchor with its integrated safety pin.
* The front side/back side etched roller with its integrated impulse finger.
* The silicium (1.1.1) cut hairspring (patent pending)

The Sonata Silicium is based on the technical movement features of the Sonata Cathedral Dual Time including the novel alarm setting with a countdown indicator and the dual time system with the instant time zone adjuster featured in many Ulysse Nardin watches.

This patented dual time function permits time zone adjustments forward and backward by simply pressing the pushers plus (+) or minus (-) to change the position of the hour hand. The original home time (reference time) stays displayed while the date, the alarm and countdown adjust automatically when a time zone adjustment is made. Available in a limited series of 300 in both 18ct pink and white gold.

Specifications:

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, large date, dual time system with instant time zone adjuster, countdown, cathedral gong alarm.
Case: 18K pink or white gold, 42 mm (limited series of 300 in both pink and white gold). Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and anti-reflective, screw-down sapphire back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial: Silicium; Second time zone; countdown and alarm counters at 6 o’clock, 10.30 and 1.30 respectively; double date window at 4 o’clock.
Bracelet/Strap: Alligator with 18K pink or white gold folding clasp

Info via Ulysse Nardin press kit

Is time running out at Antiquorum?

2008-04-06T23:03:00.005-05:00

I already talked about Antiquorum controversies of past and the repeated subsequent coverage yet (un)fortunately this saga continues a new.

Couple of weeks ago Osvaldo Patrizzi, the charming and controversial founder of Antiquorum, has issued a news conference scheduled on 8th April 2008 at the SIHH where he is going to announce the details of his new auction house venture, PATRIZZI & Co. AUCTIONEERS. This new venture in his words will be "innovative in concept" and "revolutionary in approach" and with that this news brief was done.

Initially my response was: "Good for him!". I for one am wishing him success in the new venture especially due to all the controversy hoopla during his exit from the house that he built. No matter what one may think about the man he was instrumental in building Antiquorum to a leading house of horology auctioneers, as well promoting horology education, watch collecting, as well building certain brands to their previous luster. Now that being said, I am welcoming with open arms any added innovative competition which will aid to reign in quite excessive and seemingly constantly increasing fees from these Auction houses. Their unlimited levels of various fees (seller fees, buyers fees, listing fees, appraisal fee, final sale fees, currency and cashing in commission fees, delivery fees, etc) which are simply not the norm with other auction houses in other products. Anyway as a business model it is not really that conductive to increasing business to have your buyers shouldering any additional fees, but hey let's ignore the immense ongoing success of such online model(i.e EBAY.com).

Then a few days ago I read this article Is time running out at Antiquorum? and saw the battle continues. In this article as you can see (for good or bad) more of details of their brake up from both parties are disclosed. All these "testimonials" provide a bit more insight of the discord, which seem even more terminal then anyone previously thought, thus the previous news of Patrizzi new online auctioneer venture comes as no surprise.

I have no doubt that Mr. Osvaldo Patrizzi is primed for success with the right tools of the trade from experience in the business, immense knowledge of vintage markets and watches, charismatic alpha personality and most importantly the heavy industry connections he built up over the last 34+ years.

The main question is does he have the right feel of the pulse of the market (with implied improvements that will bring advantages to both buyers and sellers)? If I was a betting man (and I am) I would be seriously surprised if this new venture would be nothing short of success and Patrizzi will once again be ascending the top podium of horology auctioneers.

Exclusive - JLC's Tribute to Memovox Polaris: Paris Boutique Launch Party

2008-04-03T17:55:00.030-05:00

On April 3rd at the MJLC Paris Boutique there was a preview launch party to the much awaited upcoming 2008 SIHH model the rendition and rebirth of the Polaris.

Already so much has been said about this legendary vintage piece and finally officially announced the tribute to this piece in this press release published last week, yet there was no confirmed photos of the prototypes in the real world. Well the wait is over.

Being that these are not professional photos, but rather real life photos taken to share firsthand this news with all of the worldwide aficionados of JLC and Polaris, please excuse the overall quality and obtrusive lighting. Do note that this are working prototypes which should indicate the final look of the pieces although some minor changes are possible to the final versions. Special thanks goes to my buddy Asi for taking care of business of being the reporter with camera on hand.

Much has been painstakingly taken care of to preserve each detail and nuance of the past in order to pay the respects to the legend with the most accurate tribute.

From the presentation box complete with a certificate of origin and a booklet telling the story of the now legendary watch.

The two models that made the most lasting impact on their era were chosen for the 2008 re-editions, the first corresponds to the original Memovox Polaris, as it was launched in 1965 which will be a LE limited edition of 165 (EDITED: changed from 65) in 950 platinum (which is not shown here, but expect it to be very similar to Paris Boutique Edition).

The second is the most famous model of all, created in 1968, this stainless steel 1968 model comes in a limited edition of 768.

Finally the special Paris Boutique Edition, in order to commemorate the place where the idea of a tribute was born and further developed to its present state, a stainless steel model that comes in a limited edition of 65 pieces.

Compared to their vintage contraparts I think they stack very good and pay a careful notion to featuring almost all of their essential characteristics to most painstaking detail.

1968 model: vintage on left and tribute on right. The main indications on the re-edition of the most famous 1968 model are aged patina style luminescent. This star model is also distinguished by its open worked baton-type hands and its large trapeze-shaped hour-markers.

As with the vintage the large round 42 mm-diameter case with polished finishing and no visible bezel cuts a stunning figure and very comfortably on the wrist.

The alarm time indicator is immediately recognizable by means of a luminescent triangle in the dial center. Controlled by the alarm crown, the central disc turns to line up the triangle with the desired alarm time.

The Paris Boutique SE, 1965 re-edition, has nickel-plated and polished straight hour-markers, Arabic numerals, luminescent rhodium-plated dauphine hands and the Automatic Alarm Calendar inscriptions.

The 1965 models: tribute on left and vintage on right.

Polaris Trio: left vintage 1968, middle Paris Boutique 1965 tribute and right 1968 tribute.

Loyal to the black dial of their predecessors, each replica bears its own signature features as seen on this duo coupling of vintage and tribute pairs.

Some special attention to details true to the original easily visible are:

Synthetic plexi glass forming the original domed shape of the Polaris watch.

The case is equipped with a crown at 3 o’clock, framed by the two distinctive Memovox crowns.

The back of the Memovox Tribute to Polaris models features outer back with 16 round openings, secured to the water resistance back in harmony with the original design. The latter is adorned with an engraving inspired by the original ‘compressor’ diving helmet and a set of technical information.

Also featured with the watch are black leather strap and small ardillion pin buckle.

Again I would love to extend my gratitude to the wonderful Team MJLC and Paris Boutique for recreating the magic of the vintage Polaris with this tribute to joy of JLC and Polaris aficionados worldwide. Special note as well to the always attentive Director Yves Meylan whose willingness to listen and consider the demanding voices of few passionate is the reason this project resulted in such spectacular fashion and ultimately have seen the light of day.

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original 1878 - Special Edition Moritz Grossmann

2008-04-03T02:14:00.007-05:00

For watch city Glashütte, located in Saxony’s Müglitz Valley, May 1, 1878, is an important date in history. On this particular day, the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte was founded on the initiative of watch manufacturer Moritz Grossmann. Rooms from the community school building of the time served as the place of instruction. In its second year of existence, the increasing number of students made building a separate school building a necessity. With the generous support of the state government, the local authority district, and a foundation the new facility located in the heart of the city was inaugurated.

The picturesque city 130 years later: thoroughly renovated and refurbished, the former school building will be inaugurated on May 22, 2008, as the historical home of the German Watch Museum in Glashütte. While on two floors the moving history of Glashütte’s art of watchmaking will be conveyed in a vivid manner, one floor of the renovated building will retain its original function, housing Saxon manufactory Glashütte Original’s own Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking and continuing to keep Moritz Grossmann’s legacy alive.

Glashütte Original’s designers thus created a worthy timepiece in the 1878 – Special Edition Moritz Grossmann in memory of the great pioneer Moritz Grossmann, who combined the past with the present in a most wonderful way. The anniversary model was inspired by the design of historical pocket watches made by students in the 1920s, a timepiece such as this uniquely builds a bridge between the past and the future of Glashütte’s art of watchmaking. Then, as now, they were made as final exams by watchmaker apprentices.

Just one look at the dial is enough to recognize the fusion, and memories of graceful pocket watches of the past come to life. The silver-plated dial is home to sweep hour and minute displays whose blued and polished sword-shaped hands contrast with the background. Loyal to details, the hand arbor is lovingly polished by hand. Glashütte Original’s designers placed the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, while the minute scale and filigreed markers are placed in perfect harmony around the center of the 1878 – Special Edition Moritz Grossmann’s time display.

A lavish manufacturing process goes into making the deceivingly simple surface of the dial. Glashütte Original made the conscious decision to use a vintage tradition: the technique of frosted silver plating, also known as l’argenture grainée. The first step consists of machine-blasting the surface of the brass dial with a mixture of water, chalk, and wood. Then a paste containing silver powder and water is carefully applied by hand to the blasted surface. The result is a charmingly purist dial that magically attracts the observer’s eye with its refined surface structure.

A fluted bezel creates the perfect frame for the dial. The 40-millimeter case, available in white or rose gold, is outfitted with the most modern mechanics: automatic Caliber 100-11. A sapphire crystal case back allows one to observe the perfectly finished insides of the watch with all of its traditional elements belonging to Glashütte’s art of watchmaking close up.

The crowning glory of this special edition is the additional case back it comes with in rose or white gold hand-engraved portrait of Moritz Grossmann. A limited number of 130 pieces each of this watch in white and rose gold will be available worldwide.

Info via Glashütte Original

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original Senator Rattrapante

2008-04-03T02:08:00.010-05:00

The Glashütte Original manufacture presented an absolute highlight of the fine art of mechanical Glashütte watchmaking last year in the Senator Rattrapante. At Baselworld 2008, the Saxon manufacture presents another perfectly formed variation of the split-seconds chronograph.

Contrary to its predecessor, which was crafted in platinum, this version is currently being introduced in a more classic rose gold case. The domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal reveals a look at the cleanly designed and structured dial of the Senator Rattrapante, with all relevant details able to be gleaned at a glance. The sweep hour and minute hands as well as the off-center stop second hand glide in shiny blue across the light dial. Should the wearer activate the rattrapante function, the red split-seconds hand begins to chase after its blue counterpart.

A red minute scale with numerals inspired by historical models completes the elegant look, building a sober frame around the artistically designed dial. The silver totalizers fit harmoniously into the entire picture of this noble timekeeper, which includes the panorama date so typical of Glashütte Original at 4 o’clock. The Roman numerals underscore and perfect the timeless look of this very special chronograph.

The sapphire crystal case back allows the fine finishing of the individual components and subgroups of manually wound Caliber 99 to become visible. On this manually wound caliber developed exclusively for the Senator Rattrapante, all important turned components—parts such as stems, pinions, and wheels—are jeweled. A technical progression is represented by the premier of the escape wheel being embedded between end stones.

Here the tip of the escape wheel pinion is embedded in a jewel, which lessens friction on the escape wheel thanks to its smaller surface. A thus steadier balance allows for stabilization of the amplitude. The design of the rattrapante tongs’ floating bearings is also technically demanding. They make a balanced division of energy possible for simultaneously opening both tong halves without having to lean on the rattrapante’s fourth wheel. This type of design is one of the highlights of the fine mechanics visible through this jewel’s sapphire crystal case back. Another remarkable characteristic of the Senator Rattrapante as a demanding manually wound chronograph is its flyback function. The great advantage of this is that the wearer is in a position to take a differential time measurement, reading the result directly without having to reset.

This exclusive timepiece’s manually wound Caliber 99 ticks within a solid, completely polished rose gold case 42 millimeters in diameter. The Senator Rattrapante is secured to the wrist of its wearer by an integrated black Louisiana crocodile skin strap with a rose gold folding clasp.

Info via Glashütte Original

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original Senator Sixties Chronograph

2008-04-03T02:05:00.006-05:00

The exciting era of the “wild ’60s” was the source of Glashütte Original’s designers’ inspiration in creating the Senator Sixties line. With the Senator Sixties Chronograph the Saxon manufacture now adds another aesthetic model to a line already so crowned by success.

Turning back time is not necessary in the case of the Senator Sixties Chronograph since this timepiece symbolizes the joie de vivre of the ‘60s very clearly for its wearer. The convex shape of the sapphire crystal on the front and likewise domed dial cleverly attract the observer’s eye. Domed, skeletonized hands glide harmoniously across the satin-finished dial, while the diamond-cut hour markers featuring characteristic dots of SuperLumiNova and the extravagant font of the numerals illustrate design typical of these years.

Glashütte Original’s designers positioned the chronograph totalizers at 3 and 9 o’clock on the dial. Polished silver zones allow the counters to integrate beautifully into the entire look of the dial design. The start and stop functions of the stylish chronograph are easily activated by the wearer with the aid of rounded buttons placed on the side of the case.

The shaped sapphire crystal case back first seen on the Senator Sixties models is naturally also present on the Senator Sixties Chronograph. It not only allows a direct view into automatic manufacture Caliber 39-52 with its characteristic elements of Glashütte watchmaking such as a three-quarter plate, swan-neck fine adjustment, Glashütte ribbing, and double sunburst decoration, but also for the first time makes a side view of the rotating oscillating weight crafted in 21-karat gold possible.

The energetic look of the Senator Sixties Chronographen is continued in its finely worked crocodile skin strap, the refined scales of which perfectly complete the retro design of this timepiece. The stainless steel model is available with a choice of a silver-colored or black dial.

Info via Glashütte Original

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL

2008-04-03T02:01:00.025-05:00

The duplex swan-neck fine adjustment introduced by Glahütte Original in 2002 is the epitome of demanding haute horlogerie and innovative and aesthetic movement design. This technical development originally created especially for manufacture movement Caliber 65 allows for an especially precise adjustment of the movement’s beat and rate. This fine adjustment is positioned upon a balance bridge, which is a component only rarely found in watchmaking.

This design is not only a true highlight in terms of its technical design. This perfectly finished functional element is also a true eye-catcher in a visual sense—which was reason enough for the designers and movement designers at Glashütte Original to help this lavish invention get the attention it deserves on the dial of a watch, out in the open and visible. Thus, the new PanoInverse XL is especially transparent.

At numerous places within the movement, components and subgroups had to be re-worked or even freshly developed in order to make this wonderful timepiece a reality. The most of important of these included a new position for the balance bridge as well as a re-working of the winding subgroup, which resulted in a new design for a corresponding balance braking spring.

Furthermore, a transmission wheel for correcting direction was integrated and the design of the dial freshly conceived. These new elements resulted in the necessity of re-working all three plates and the wheel-pinion subgroups for the movement and power reserve so that they fit the new proportions. Thus, in the end, manually wound Caliber 66 experienced a new development.

The dial of the PanoInverse XL does not cover the full surface as do other models of the Pano line, but is rather executed as a small ring-like variation so that the desired section of the movement remains visible. The off-center arrangement of the hours, minutes, and seconds is positioned against a black background, the contrasting surface of which is shiningly underscored by the rose gold applied elements and Arabic numerals marking 3, 9, and 12 o’clock. Other traditional elements of Glashütte watchmaking such as screw-mounted gold chatons and blued screws charmingly stand out from the silver-colored background. A polished rose gold hand glides across the stylized power reserve display located on the three-quarter plate, offering information on the amount of tension left in the movement’s mainspring.

A clear highlight is without a doubt the uninhibited view of the artfully hand-engraved balance bridge and its duplex swan-neck fine adjustment. The regular oscillation of the balance located underneath the bridge guarantees a charming spectacle of time. This wonderful, artful ensemble lends the PanoInverse XL an incomparable appearance.

This exceptional watch is available in a polished rose or white gold case with a matching Louisiana alligator skin strap in black or brown. The PanoInverse XL is a fascinating timepiece for all lovers of fine watches that can’t get enough of looking at the exceptional design of Glashütte Original’s duplex swan-neck fine adjustment.

Info via Glashuette Original

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original various novelties

2008-04-03T02:01:00.021-05:00

Glashütte Original Sport Evolution Perpetual Calendar

Glashütte Original Serenade Tourbillon

Glashütte Original Serenade Novelties

Blue

Brown

Ice

Lady Serenade Chronograph

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: World Time Ref 5131

2008-04-02T15:46:00.004-05:00

The World Time, one of Patek Philippe’s emblematic complications, is highly sought-after by collectors, as are the famous and very rare world time models from the 40’s and 50’s. This exclusive model in yellow gold is beautifully decorated with a cloisonné enamel world map on the dial and an engraving on the bezel. The 24 time zones on their respective disks and the day/night indicator are very legible.

Specification:

Movement - Automatic, 240 HU calibre, 33 jewels, 21,600 vib/h. Unidirectional 22K gold mini-rotor, Poinçon de Genève
48-hour power reserve.
Functions - Hours, minutes, world time (local + 24 time zones simultaneously)
Case - 18K yellow gold, diameter 39.50 mm
Sapphire crystal, screw-down sapphire back. Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial - 3 zones: cloisonné enamel and gold centre, disk with black transfer names of cities, 24-disk with day/night indicator
18K yellow gold hands and applied hour-markers
Bracelet/Strap - Chocolate brown, hand-sewn, square-scaled alligator with 18K yellow gold folding clasp

Info via Patek Phillipe and Swiss Time

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Patek Philippe Ref. 5207 Quantieme Perpetual Tourbillon Repetition Minutes

2008-04-02T15:23:00.006-05:00

Patek Philippe presents a new grand complication, Ref. 5207, in platinum with a minute repeater, tourbillon and instant perpetual calendar with original windows, for which two patents are pending.

The instant changing of all the date displays is a supplementary complication comprising 212 interacting components. This new exploit took more than five years to develop and is one of the brand’s most complicated wristwatches. Only a few will be produced each year.

Movement is the hand-wound Patek caliber RTO27PSQI, a minute repeater with tourbillon, COSC-certified as a chronometer and with the Geneva Seal mark.

The case, in platinum, measures 41mm. It has a sapphire crystal and sapphire display back (comes also with a solid back).

Specifications:

Movement - Hand-wound, R TO 27 PS QI calibre, minute repeater with tourbillon escapement, COSC-certified, Poinçon de Genève.
Functions - Hours, minutes, small seconds, instant perpetual calendar in windows (day, date, month, leap-year, day/night indicator) and moon phases.
Case - 950 platinum, 41 mm, set with a pure Top Wesselton diamond (0.02ct). Sapphire crystal. Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal backs
Dial - 950 platinum hands and applied hour-markers. Small seconds and moon phases at 6 o’clock.
Bracelet/Strap - Matt chocolate brown, hand-sewn, square-scaled alligator with 950 platinum folding clasp

Info via Patek Phillipe and Swiss Time

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Rolex new models

2008-04-02T12:25:00.005-05:00

The Baselword has commenced and the news from that worldwide heavyweight the Basel behemoth Rolex are coming in. As I mentioned previously in this post Rolex 2008 Baselworld Rumors there were many unconfirmed yet very highly regarded rumors from various legitimate sources about new models coming in before hand. Today we have a very first glimpse of the actual models trickling in. From what I can gather for now we can see that many of this "rumors" were indeed very true and qualified.

First the NEW larger model - The Seadweller Deep Sea.

Larger case (my estimate is like the YachtMaster II but bigger 43mm case), maxi dial, ceramic bezel, 12000ft/3900m depth rating, He escape valve, new adjustable clasp.

Second the New Submariner date - Blue dial and bezel available introduced only (for now that is) in White Gold of course update includes maxi case, dial and new bracelet (very much like the last years GMT Master II in 40mm). Also available in Yellow gold configuration with same updates but in Black dial/bezel combination. As with all Rolex initial introductions the updated models come in precious metals first followed soon (usually a year later) with SS and SS/metal configurations.

Third is the Daytona - now available in 18k Rose Gold or in Rolex parlay Everose gold. No reported modifications although from looking at the pictures available they might be supercased a la Maxi case from GMT Master II and new Sub, but I have serious doubts.

Introduced for the first time in 18K pink gold and in two different color dial combos.

Lastly the New Day Date II - the cases got supersized to a new 41mm case. Available exclusively in all the usual precious metals: 18K yellow, white and everose gold as well Platinum.

Platinum with grey dial

Platinum with glacier blue dial

White Gold

Yellow Gold

Pink Gold aka Everose

Info via Rolex.com, and TZ.com.

SIHH 2008 Preview: Cartier Ballon bleu de Cartier

2008-04-01T23:38:00.003-05:00

Cartier opens the watchmaking year at SIHH 2008 with a new version of the Ballon bleu de Cartier, this time with a masculine touch. Still the quintessential dandy watch, Cartier displays its peerless design savvy with the soft curves that typify this model.

Actually, that is an understatement. Present are the usual ball-like shape, the quirky crown (with a blue sapphire cabochon) and winding mechanism and the distorting glass however this time Cartier introduces a leather strap. The Ballon bleu de Cartier watch is round on the top and underneath, but upon closer inspection the shape is somewhat more complex: a watch that seems to fit the wrist weightlessly, as if the two were already acquainted. Cartier plays with the shapes and challenges your mind in the view of aesthetics. Perhaps masculine, perhaps feminine?

The winding mechanism is decorated with a sapphire cabochon, around which the dial orbits, and is more imposing than ever before due to a precious metal protective arch. Pictures cannot fully convey the unusual personality of the watch. Surely, the serious watch lover can pause to admire the audacity of the piece – and the audacity of its owner.

Although Ballon Bleu is available in 3 different sizes (28.5mm, 36.5mm, and 42mm) the last larger size is the one displayed in in pink gold. Available in different metals (WG, RG) as well in SS the automatic watch can also serve up the time – hours, minutes and seconds – in a very peculiar and distinguished way. The new Cartier Ballon Bleu watches range from $4,950 to $46,000, and there is even a limited edition version the sells for $950,000.

Specification:

* 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold case (also available in pink gold and SS).
* Hour, minute, second and date functions.
* 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold fluted crown decorated with a blue sapphire
cabochon.
* Varnished silvered opaline guilloche dial, black Roman numerals, date window at
3 o’clock.
* Blued steel sword-shaped hands.
* Crystal sapphire.
* 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold bracelet (also available in pink gold and
SS).
* 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold safety clasp(also available in pink gold and
SS).
* Cartier calibre 049 automatic movement.
* Water resistant to 30m/100ft.

Info via Cartier, Watch Tribune and Watch Quote.

Cartier joins a select group of watch manufactures to display the Geneva Seal

2008-03-31T01:30:00.003-05:00

Article published by: JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone

The House of Cartier has joined a select group of watch manufactures certified to display the Geneva Seal. This stamp seals the installation of Cartier Watch-Making in Geneva, where its master craftsmen have developed and crafted the caliber 9452 MC* that now bears this certification.

Created in the 19th century by a guild plagued by counterfeit products, the Geneva Seal is currently considered to be the symbol of watch-making perfection.

Enacted into law in 1886, the Geneva Seal is probably one of the oldest professional labels, recognized both as an indication of independent origin and a guarantee of superior quality.

Three prerequisites determine the award of the Geneva Seal:

* The movement must be mechanical and, at a minimum, assembled and adjusted in the canton of Geneva.

* Each caliber must meet twelve technical and aesthetic criteria outlined in the regulations, which have a bearing on its design and characteristics as well as the quality of the manufacture and finishes.

* The caliber must be approved and officially recognized by the Office for the Voluntary Inspection of Watches from Geneva (Bureau de Contrôle Facultatif des Montres de l'Etat de Genève). This Office is supervised by a sworn-in commission composed of members that have been appointed by the government of the canton.

"For Cartier, winning the Geneva Seal certification for this new caliber confirms its priority to uphold the most prestigious watch-making tradition of all," the company said in a statement.

2008 SIHH Preview: JLC Polaris

2008-03-28T00:41:00.006-05:00

Press file provided by MJLC.

The 1968 Polaris

Memovox Tribute to Polaris, renaissance of a legendary watch.

For 175 years, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been tirelessly inventing and discovering new technical and aesthetic horizons, thus renewing the grand Swiss watchmaking traditions. Both reflecting and perpetuating this vocation, the Memovox Polaris represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration for the creative talents at work in the Manufacture. Regarded as the epitome of the sports watch for the past four decades, the Memovox is an extremely rare timepiece that is fiercely coveted by collectors. Its powerful design, dynamic form and blend of performance and energy continue to pervade all the Jaeger-LeCoultre sporting models to this day: from the Master Compressor Memovox to the AMVOX, as well as the all-new Master Compressor Diving watches. It was therefore high time for the Manufacture to express its gratitude to a watch that has become an icon. And what better tribute could it pay than by opting for faithful replicas equipped with the latest technical innovations inherent to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 21st century automatic movements?

The two models that made the most lasting impact on their era were chosen for the 2008 re-editions, presented under the title of Memovox Tribute to Polaris. The first corresponds to the original Memovox Polaris, as it was launched in 1965. The second is the most famous model of all, created in 1968.

History of a legend

Almost half a century ago, Jaeger-LeCoultre had already left an indelible imprint on the history of diving. The Memovox Deep Sea launched in 1959 was the very first diver’s watch to be equipped with an alarm. The latter served to remind the diver that it was time to return to the surface. It was driven by a Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 815, the first movement in watchmaking history to feature both automatic winding and an alarm function.

Six years later, the Memovox Polaris was born. Representing a new breakthrough in technological history, its triple-back case enabled optimal diffusion of sound under water. Since water resistance is the cornerstone of any diver’s watch, the new model featured the patented Piquerez Compressor system, as well as three super-sealed crowns.

Powered by the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 825, with a balance performing 18,800 vibrations per hour, the Memovox Polar also showed the date through a window at 3 o’clock. In harmony with the size of the case itself, the movement was remarkably large for a wristwatch: 14 lignes, meaning 31.6 mm in diameter, and 7.6 mm thick. In order to meet the specific demands of the American market, the first to show an interest, the Memovox was christened Polaris after the famous American missiles symbolising the Western strike force during the Cold War. But this name mostly echoed the adventurous spirit of the 1960s, distinguished by a determination to travel ever faster and further, in an era when the public at large was fascinated by the space race, ocean discoveries and polar exploration..

Research work began on the Memovox Polaris in 1962, and 1,714 of these watches were made between 1965 and 1970. They were equipped with several types of dial and hands, according to the markets for which they were intended; today, the slightest variations of numerals, hour markers and signatures generates passionate interest among fervent contemporary collectors.

In 2008, Jaeger-LeCoultre honors this legendary model by creating two Memovox Tribute to Polaris replicas. Each is a nod to one of the milestones in the history of this icon watch: the first corresponds to the original Memovox Polaris as launched in 1965; while the second is the most famous of them all, created in 1968.

A 21st century watch that is faithful to the original

To the delight of collectors and avid followers of the emblematic Polaris watch, the two Memovox Tribute to Polaris models faithfully reproduce the 1965 and 1968 models, while featuring their essential characteristics.
First of all, the large round 42 mm-diameter case with polished finishing and no visible bezel, equipped with three crowns featuring a chequered motif. Just as when this model was first introduced, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have inserted the rotating bezel beneath the dial, with its famous central triangle serving as an index for dive times. To facilitate handling, the case is equipped with a crown at 3 o’clock, framed by the two distinctive Memovox crowns. The one at 2 o’clock enables the user to adjust, wind and start or stop the alarm function, which has its own independent barrel. The other one at 4 o’clock services to set and wind the movement.

The alarm time indicator is immediately recognizable by means of a luminescent triangle in the dial centre. Controlled by the alarm crown, the central disc turns to line up the triangle with the desired alarm time.
Loyal to the black dial of their predecessors, each replica bears its own signature features. The 1965 re-edition has nickel-plated and polished straight hour-markers, Arabic numerals, luminescent rhodium-plated dauphine hands, and the Automatic Alarm Calendar inscriptions.

Meanwhile, the main indications on the re-edition of the most famous 1968 model are luminescent. This star model is also distinguished by its open worked baton-type hands and its large trapeze-shaped hour-markers. On both versions, the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo at 12 o’clock embodies this reassuring presence that asserts its mastery over time.

The sapphire crystal – a must in contemporary watchmaking – is exceptionally replaced on these models by a synthetic material forming the original domed shape of the Polaris watch. Purists will certainly concur with this deliberate infringement of current industry rules.

A new movement in the Memovox line

While the Memovox Tribute to Polaris watches are faithful to the spirit and aesthetics of their forerunners, they nonetheless naturally deserved to be equipped with the latest technical innovations by Jaeger-LeCoultre, in order to meet modern demands for precision, sturdiness and reliability.

As the latest interpretation of the automatic Memovox movement, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956 houses the striking mechanism, featuring a gong hanging at the back of the case, along with central seconds and instant-jump date-change system. Measuring 7.45 mm thick, it provides a 45-hour power reserve and a level of precision guaranteed by 28,800 vibrations per hour. Its oscillating weight is equipped with ceramic ball-bearings that require no maintenance or lubrication.

A double-back case guaranteeing water resistance to 200 meters

The historical Memovox Polaris was distinguished by its three-part case. The first element was an inside back in bronze that enhanced the resonance of the alarm sound. The second was a sealed back that protected the precious mechanism from any water seeping in, down to depths of 200 meters. The last was a third back drilled with 16 holes, which prevented the sound being muffled by the watch being squeezed against its owner’s diving suit.

The back of the Memovox Tribute to Polaris models features an inner sealed back that maintains its role as a resonance chamber (an additional bronze back is no longer necessary with a hanging gong), and an outer back with 16 round openings, secured to the water resistance back in harmony with the original design. The latter is adorned with an engraving inspired by the original ‘compressor’ diving helmet and a set of technical information provided inside the case of the original model to symbolize its exceptional water tightness.

A tribute encompassing the smallest details

The Memovox Tribute to Polaris is available in two limited series equipped with a black leather strap and small pin buckle. The 1965 model is issued in a limited edition of 65 in 950 platinum; while the steel 1968 model comes in a limited edition of 768. The two replicas are accompanied by a presentation box inspired by its vintage equivalent, complete with a certificate of origin and a booklet telling the story of the now legendary watch.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has revisited one of the landmarks in its history in order to train the spotlight on a creation embodying a degree of aesthetic and technical perfection that has consistently fired collectors’ enthusiasm and inspired the designers of the Manufacture over the past four decades.

2008 SIHH Preview: JLC AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT

2008-03-28T00:34:00.005-05:00

Press file provided by MJLC.

AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT the watch with the dual mechanical heritage.

Born from the partnership between Aston Martin and Jaeger-LeCoultre, the AMVOX line has asserted itself within just a few years as the ultimate expression of the imaginary world of these two legends. Loyal to the sporting and elegant nature of the collection, the new AMVOX3 immediately proclaims its membership of the most select fine watchmaking circles. Its round ceramic case is the first ever made in this material by the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux. It houses the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 988 tourbillon movement, driving two time-zone displays and a date making a larger jump between the 31st and the 1st of each month so as not to obstruct the full view of the tourbillon mechanism.
The extraordinary open worked dial enables one to admire the ruthenium-coated bridges and base plate, as well as the blackened central bridge of the AP/PM indicator. As befits such supreme quality, the AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT will be produced in a limited edition reflecting that of Aston Martin cars, also issued in small series so as to remain a luxury reserved for a privileged few.

Revolutionary form and content

The AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT strikes an undeniably perfect balance between strength and performance. In making its ceramic case, the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux opted for a cutting-edge process designed to ensure that the AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT meets the quality criteria expected of an Haute Horlogerie model. A mixture of zirconium and yttrium oxides is heated at high pressure to a temperature of over 2000 degrees so as to combine the two
components into strongly cohesive blocks. To avoid any risk of porosity, the homogeneity of the material is also subjected to radioscopic scrutiny. This material is then ground in order to shape the case. This process is the only way of guaranteeing the correct machining of high-end ceramics and to achieve extremely precise contours of the watch. This final stage calls for the use of special tools coated in diamond crystals as well as diamond powders for polishing. The type of ceramics used by Jaeger-LeCoultre features peerless resistance and stability, for a material that is barely harder than titanium, as well as far lighter and twice as hard as steel.

Just as a sports watch is equipped with an engine on a par with its ambitions, the AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT houses a high-performance movement that enjoys the privilege of incorporating the patented oscillating weight of Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 988C, the movement powering the Master Compressor Extreme LAB. This 21st century automatic movement is distinguished by the presence of a new oscillating weight featuring redesigned geometrical shape and affording a considerable improvement in winding performances. Its weight is 28% lower
than classic rotors, since it is made from an alloy of platinum and iridium, the densest non-toxic physical body currently machinable. The use of avant-garde materials also serves to slim down the construction and achieve a far thinner result. Its arms are made from carbon fibers so as to make them lighter and more rigid. Friction is further reduced by mounting the oscillating weight on tiny ceramic ball-bearings. The design of the parts and the nature of the materials used in making them further enhance their shock-resistance and their durability.

The natural harmonies between fine mechanical engineering and Haute Horlogerie

What would be the point of technical inventions if they were not accompanied by an aesthetic quest capable of nurturing emotions and reams? Likewise, the seductive appeal that Aston Martin cars have for decades exercised on demanding drivers stems from their unique blend of sport and style, of cutting-edge technology and classical design references. Faced with the rough gem represented by the splendid high-tech case with its intense black sheen, Jaeger-LeCoultre designers decided to cultivate the natural harmonies between fine mechanical engineering and Haute Horlogerie, between noble materials and contemporary technologies, by associating ceramics with the classic beauty of 18-carat gold in its most exquisite shade. The black hue of the case, the numerals and the dial echoing the characteristic structure of car radiator grids,
makes a striking contrast with the 18-carat pink gold of the polished crown, the back bezel and the double folding clasp, as well as with the gilded accents of the luminescent broad pointers including a delicately openworked minute hand.

The fascination of complications: tourbillon and dual time zone

Since the AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT is intended for devotees of mechanical engineering, whether dedicated to automobiles or to precision timekeeping, it naturally sought to provide an ample view of the exceptional capacities of its revolutionary mechanism – starting at 6 o’clock, with a clear vision of the fascinating motion of the tourbillon. This brilliant mechanism that emerged during the first golden age of watchmaking two centuries ago has retained the original
operating principle while improving its efficiency by the choice of state-of-the-art materials. Its grade 5 titanium carriage features ruthenium-coated bevelled, drawn and polished edges and weighs no less than 280 mg. The 4N gold-plated upper bridge features a splendid openworked design vividly evoking of the finest hours of automobile sports. The tourbillon is equipped with a variable-inertia balance oscillating at a cadence of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Imbued with an inimitably British touch of elegance, this newcomer to the realm of sports watches, naturally could not forego the indispensable dual time-zone display, indicated by an additional hour hand and complemented by the ever useful AM/PM indication at 12 o’clock. The main hour hand is adjustable in one-hour backward or forward increments by rotating the crown. Finally, to ensure that the tourbillon is visible at all times, the slender date hand pointing to the monthly calendar inscribed around the inner dial ring, in a classic 270° sweep reminiscent of vintage speedometers, has been “trained” to jump between the 31st and the 1st of each month: an exceptional accomplishment for which patent has been duly registered.

Further revealing the feats achieved by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 988, the central dial opening affords fascinating glimpses of the ruthenium-coated bridges and baseplate, as well as of the central AM/PM indicator blackened with a PVD coating.

The first AMVOX model with sapphire crystal case-back

And since everyone knows that enthusiasts of fine English cars love to lift up the hood to admire the running of the engine, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have fitted the case of the AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT with a glareproofed sapphire crystal case-back.

Power and elegance

The AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT testifies to a powerful spirit that vividly reflects its dual heritage. It embodies the power, style and performance of sports cars, as well as the technical innovation, reliability and artistic sophistication of a Manufacture uniting over 40 professions under one roof. Its appearance echoes that of the Aston Martin world through its avant-garde movement, its generous black ceramic case measuring 44 mm in diameter – a cutting-edge achievement in its own right – and aesthetic reminders relating to the signature codes of prestige automobiles, such as the driver’s strap in perforated black calfskin with white overstitching and the winged Aston Martin logo appearing at 6 o’clock on the dial and admirably matching the brand’s emblematic J and L capital letters at 12 o’clock. Issued in a limited, numbered series of 300, the AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT combines admirable strength and elegance, entirely dedicated to the masters of speed and of time.

2008 SIHH Preview: JLC Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph

2008-03-28T00:31:00.003-05:00

Press file provided by MJLC.

Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph

Extreme design, ceramic case; the technical watch par excellence

Square, masculine, assertive: the Reverso Squadra asserted itself right from its launch as the ultimate in technical watches. It immediately earned its place on men’s wrists thanks to its design and performances. For the first time in its history, a Reverso sports a black ceramic case, a concentrated blend of avant-garde technologies, which naturally frames the traditional double face required to display additional functions. This tour de force combines with prodigious
mechanical complexity to meet the needs of elite sportsmen competing on polo fields the world over: a chronograph with perfectly readable indications to precisely measure the time of each chukka, as well as a large date display. The back is dedicated to an indication that is vital to those whose passion leads them to travel the globe: the world-time function, instantly showing the time in each time zone. Audacious, elegant and sturdy: a watch designed for these
exceptional sportsmen who must be able to rely at all times on an unfailingly reliable timepiece.

Ceramics enters the realm of the Reverso

Undoubtedly only such an exceptional model as the Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields chronograph could justify the entry of ceramics into the Reverso range. Extremely technical, incredibly resistant and ultra-sporty, only such a unique watch could display this extreme design featuring an envelope made up of a swivel case in black ceramics resting on a pink gold or titanium carrier. To achieve this extraordinary aesthetic accomplishment, it was essential to
supersede the constraints generally imposed by the use of ceramics and to develop a machining technology superior to those used thus far. The production of ceramic parts is generally based on injection moulding of two components: the ceramic powder as such, along with a plastic binding agent designed to facilitate agglomeration. The subsequent firing in a kiln serves to weld the ceramic grains and evaporate the binding substance. The mass is then subjected to progressive shrinkages until it reaches the final size. This process is however not impeccable,
since it may lead to the formation of bubbles or porosities liable to spoil the aesthetics of the surface, and above all to weaken the structure as a whole. Moreover, it results in somewhat imprecise geometrical dimensions that are incompatible with the demands of a Jaeger- LeCoultre case.

There was obviously no question of Jaeger-LeCoultre accepting such disadvantages on a watch designed to face up to extreme wearing conditions. Here too, the concept had to be entirely rethought, starting with the composition of ceramic powders. After lengthy research, the Manufacture chose a blend of zirconium oxide and yttrium. In the absence of a binding agent, the two parts are pressed before being heated to 2500 degrees to form solid blocks that are thus extremely homogeneous by nature. Nonetheless, the remarkable hardness of this high-end ceramics requires specific tools to machine it, in the form of grinding-wheels coated with diamond crystals, as well as fine diamond powders to polish it. To make things even more difficult, it is important to remember that the case of the Reverso comprises over 50 parts and is therefore one of the most complex to make due to its swivelling principle. The result of this long and meticulous task is an exceptional degree of hardness equivalent to 1200 Vickers –compared with 600 Vickers for hardened steel. The extremely compact and homogeneous case of the Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph is a state-of-the-art achievement in its own right, endowed with exceptional characteristics that guarantee it amazing resistance to scratches and extremely long-term durability and stability.

An automatic movement by Jaeger-LeCoultre

Specially designed for the Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph, the twin-barrel Calibre 753 appears through the transparent city disc that reveals the oscillating weight of this superb 39-jewel movement beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. A mechanical masterpiece, it embodies all the genius of a movement capable of displaying the different indications on each of the faces of the reversible case thanks to a gear transmission system that circumvents the oscillating weight. Its two barrels also guarantee a comfortable 65-hour power
reserve.

100% Squadra design and functions

The exceptional quality of black ceramics has also opened up original prospects for the designers of the Manufacture, who play brilliantly on the powerful contrasts between gold or titanium and the black shade of the case. The superbly treated black dials are lit up by white numerals in the inimitable Reverso style, while certain essential signature features such as the seconds hand or the movement operating indicator appear in red so as to enable instant reading of the important information. On the back, the spectacular world-time function
indicates the entire set of time zones on a transparent disc subdivided into 24 hours and offering a glimpse of the complexity of the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 753. It even features a delicately shaded zone that serves as a day/night indication in order to avoid any confusion in reading world time. The Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph has nonetheless taken the liberty of “replacing” some capitals by the locations of the major polo grounds where aficionados meet up around the world: Palm Beach Florida; Palermo, Argentina;
Ham London in the United Kingdom, Sotogrande in Spain and Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. Clarity, legibility and high technology are the keynotes of this model with a swivel case that continues to turns heads.

In the heat of action, readability is the supreme criterion and the Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph wins this particular contest by several lengths. Located at 9 and 3 o’clock, the chronograph minute and hour counters also adopt a “squarely” determined attitude, whereas the red seconds hand makes a striking contrast with the black and white elements. The large date at 12 o’clock boasts a crystal-clear display through twin apertures, while the movement running indicator at 6 o’clock provides constant proof that the watch is indeed operating smoothly. Finally, elegance and functionality also combine on the case middle, where the streamlined crown and push pieces in pink gold or titanium accentuate the stylistic power of a case whose unique appearance is further highlighted by the articulated rubber strap with a metal core. This sophisticated wristband is equipped with a steel folding clasp featuring a safety button
device that prevents any accidental opening. As a watch entirely dedicated to speed and precision, it is also water-resistant to 50 meters, another indispensable feature of any self-respecting sports model.

When deciding which material to associate with the high-tech ceramics, devotees of polo and of Jaeger-LeCoultre will have to choose between two aesthetic options to accompany the absolute black of the case: the gentle warmth of pink gold, or the intense grey of titanium for a tone-on-tone contrast. The grade 5 titanium used by the Manufacture is an alloy that also comprises a small proportion of aluminum and vanadium. This material is widely used in aeronautics due to its high level of mechanical resistance, as well as in orthopedic surgery because of its biocompatibility that ensures it is perfectly tolerated inside the human body. Moreover, it is sufficiently hard to enable polishing, contrary to pure titanium. In a perfect high-tech alliance with ceramics, it will prove equally stainless and stable over the long term. And to make an innately difficult choice even tougher, one should also mention that the pink gold edition will be produced in a limited edition of 500.

Playing its role as the Reverso of extremes to the full, the Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph is ultimate in all respects, right down to the smallest details. It successfully manages to remain entirely true to the genetic heritage of the Reverso, which it nonetheless transcends by its exceptional character. More Reverso than ever, it returns 77 years later to the polo fields where its illustrious forerunner was born, while sporting a powerful personality that makes it even more attractive.

2008 SIHH Preview: JLC Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

2008-03-28T00:25:00.005-05:00

Press file provided by MJLC.

Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2

The ethereal revolutions of the spherical tourbillon within a swiveling case

After the stunning revelation of the Gyrotourbillon I, Jaeger-LeCoultre is offering the spherical tourbillon a stage-setting worthy of its technically innovative nature: the swiveling case of the Reverso. Presented in a decorative expression inspired by the finest Haute Horlogerie achievements, this extraordinary watch mechanism overturns long-established principles, since it represents the first time that a wristwatch houses a cylinder-shaped balance-spring. Representing a splendid approach to the quest for absolute precision, the three-dimensional motion of the spherical tourbillon fascinates observers by the exceptional speed of rotation of its two carriages, with the inner one completing a full turn in 18.75 seconds, while the outer one performs a more conventional one-minute turn. Universally acclaimed at the time of its launch barely four years ago, this revolution in the tourbillon world now finds an entirely natural aesthetic expression in the Reverso, with its distinctive shape that further highlights the absolute beauty of this peerless technical accomplishment.

When the Manufacture Jaeger-LeCoultre first unveiled this avant-garde innovation in 2004, the Gyrotourbillon I took the watch industry by storm as the first-ever spherical tourbillon. Composed of two carriages mounted on axes set at a 90° angle, this horological microcosm is still the only mechanical device enabling a wristwatch to break completely free from the detrimental effects of gravity on its timekeeping precision.

A tribute to Fine Watchmaking, paid by an outstanding mechanical innovation

Embodying a mechanical marvel in its own right, the spherical tourbillon and the hundred or so parts composing it exercise an irresistible fascination by the complexity, speed and beauty of its three-dimensional motion. Eager to enliven still further the entrancing vision provided by this unparalleled watch mechanism, the designers of the Manufacture decided to enhance its already remarkable visual appeal by adding a touch of colour. To achieve this, they suggested that the technicians perform a daring thermal treatment on one of the most delicate parts of the mechanism, the now famous cylindrical balance-spring with end curves, in order to give it a bluish tint similar to that of the hour, minute and power-reserve hands. And since Jaeger-LeCoultre’s choices are always simultaneously dictated by both functional and aesthetic criteria, the arms of the balance were meticulously open-worked to create a slender elegance that also implies a considerable reduction in weight.

The barrel itself is fitted with a cover and a sapphire crystal so as to reduce friction on the mainspring. The energy it stores is thus entirely available for the movement in order to ensure a respectable 50-hour power reserve. Meanwhile, a subtle device placed on the barrel avoids any risks related to excess or insufficient tension. This means that when the watch is being wound, the system blocks the winding process before the spring becomes overly taut. Conversely, the movement stops before the progressive unwinding is liable to adversely affect the watch’s rating precision.
The extraordinary manually-decorated Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 174 is composed of 371 parts. Connoisseurs of fine watchmaking will appreciate the hand-raised and polished interior angles as well as the exquisite rounding off the intermediate carriage bridge. The German silver bridges and mainplate feature file-drawn edges, as well as hand-raised and polished angles. The surfaces are adorned with Clous de Paris, Côtes de Genève, circular graining or satin brushing, all serving to accentuate the graphic strength of this splendid rectangular movement. These ornamental touches create splendid contrasts with the steel mechanisms and the gear wheels coated in yellow gold. Finally, the plate features a screw of which the purpose is liable to remain a mystery for generations of watchmakers, since it will reveal the secret of its function only to micromechanical adventurers prepared to take the time required to grasp the enigma behind the running of this matchless mechanical calibre.

A key feature of the Gyrotourbilon 2: the cylindrical balance-spring with end curves

The second version of the Gyrotourbillon is distinguished by an essential organ: the presence of a cylinder-shaped balance-spring with end curves. This component was invented by English watchmaker John Arnold, who had it patented in 1782. Due to the complexity involved in its production and the difficulties implied by attempts to miniaturise it, this ingenious discovery which guarantees a regular and perfectly isochronous development of the balance-spring was reserved exclusively for marine chronometers and a few generously sized pocket-watches. It thus appeared doomed never to drive a wrist worn mechanism. Innovative watchmakers chafed at this regrettable situation, since its rating characteristics are unanimously considered to be
infinitely better than those of a flat balance-spring.
Nonetheless, all obstacles and pitfalls, however insurmountable they might appear, inevitably spur the engineers and watchmakers of the Manufacture to decisive action. The latter were able to grasp the opportunity represented by the spherical tourbillon and to present a cylindrical balance-spring nestling at the heart of a wristwatch. Combined with the specific advantages of the spherical tourbillon, this innovation represents a breakthrough in the field of accuracy and paves the way for a level of rating precision that is simply unprecedented on a timepiece designed to follow its wearer’s arm movements.

The extraordinary complexity of the spherical tourbillon

Embodying a major step forward in the history of mechanical horology, the spherical tourbillon offers wristwatches the same advantages that the classic Breguet tourbillon had brought to pocket-watches. Since the late 18th century, the tourbillon mechanism has freed watch movements from the influence of gravity on the regulating organ and its adverse effects on precision. This prodigiously designed mechanism serves its true purpose in a pocket-watch, which generally sits upright in a waistcoat pocket. However, the usefulness of a traditional tourbillon is far less obvious in a wristwatch, which is usually worn in a horizontal position. This particular situation requires the watchmaker to perform adjustments in several positions in order to determine a satisfactory average rate. Through its conception and its construction built on two axes set at a 90° angle, the spherical tourbillon is the only device that compensates for the effects of gravity in all positions. Nonetheless, actually producing it called for the use of ultra-light high-tech materials in order to create a mechanism able to simultaneously drive the rotation of both carriages. Their speeds of rotation are so fast – one turn per minute for the outer carriage and one revolution in just 18.75 seconds for the inner carriage – that the balance maintains constant amplitude, whichever way it is oriented. For the first time in watchmaking history, the exactness of a watch is thus entirely independent of the position of the timepiece itself. Loyal to the uncompromising principles that govern each of its decisions, Jaeger-LeCoultre refused to take the easy path to achieving this result by reducing the size of the balance or the frequency of its oscillations. In
order to guarantee infallible accuracy, the Reveros Gyrotourbillon 2 is equipped with a large gold balance that is fairly insensitive to vibrations or shocks, has an inertia of 12.5 mgxcm2 and imperturbably oscillates at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. In an ultimate touch of luxury and in order to avoid any alteration in the rating in case of impacts, adjustments are made by means of gold inertia-blocks arranged around the rim of the balance.

An absolute Reverso, for a new dimension in time measurements

In terms of its horological functions, the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 displays the time by means of two flame-blued steel hands moving over an off-centred sapphire subdial. A fine engraving on the wheel to the left of the dial enables one to read off the time on a 24-hour scale. Meanwhile, the seconds are indicated by a blue index that is actually part of the outer tourbillon carriage. On the back, a hand integrated within the movement indicates the power reserve on a sector-shaped bridge.

Nonetheless, at the very moment when a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch appears to have revealed its essential characteristics, a new element consistently overturns the global view that an attentive observer is struggling to gain. For this particular model, in order to house the manually-wound Calibre 174, the engineers of the Manufacture had to design an entirely new swivel case that nonetheless complied with the inimitable DNA of the Reverso. By the very nature of its operating principle, the spherical tourbillon calls for a thicker type of envelope in order to operate in perfect freedom and security. After making countless prototypes based on highly complex crystals and spheres cut from sapphires, technicians and designers finally managed to accommodate the thickness of the tourbillon within an apparently classic case and sapphire crystal. Representing the height of refinement, this case is even equipped with a bolt inspired by the system used on the Reverso grande complication à triptyque, in order to prevent any inadvertent opening of the watch. The case is water-resistant to 30 metres and fitted with an
integrated leather strap ensuring exceptional comfort on the wrist. As befits such a prestigious watch, the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 will be issued in a strictly limited platinum edition of 75.

Nonetheless, any watchmaking devotee will soon forget the subsidiary features of the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 and simply turn his gaze over and over to the extraordinary vision afforded by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 174 and the captivating revolutions of the spherical tourbillon as it exercises its truly irresistible force of attraction. As the absolute Reverso, the Gyrotourbillon 2 embodies a unique accomplishment that could only emerge from a Manufacture that has allied traditional know-how with an indomitable spirit of innovation for the past 175 years. This timepiece, boasting a degree of precision on the wrist that breaks entirely free of the power of gravity, illustrates the creative strength that nurtures the countless transformations of the Reverso, the watchmaking icon appearing in consistently reinvented and perpetually fascinating new forms of expression.

2008 SIHH Preview: JLC Reverso Squadra Lady

2008-03-28T00:16:00.003-05:00

Press file provided by MJLC.

Reverso Squadra Lady, a multi-faceted feminine universe.

Two years after the advent of the Reverso Squadra for men, Jaeger-LeCoultre presents a collection dedicated to women. The boldly determined appearance of the Reverso Squadra Lady reflects a multi-faceted feminine universe: two faces, a fast and clever strap-change
system, a stunning array of materials, a classic design and the sparkle of diamonds. Equipped with the latest generation of Jaeger-LeCoultre movements, these models combine the signature Reverso Squadra features with a degree of refinement reserved exclusively for feminine wrists.

Reverso Squadra Lady – the many faces of an obvious choice

Jaeger-LeCoultre wanted to offer women a Reverso Squadra collection embodying the fundamentals of the iconic Reverso and its unique swivel, while also bearing the distinctive characteristics of the Reverso Squadra line: a square case and resolute character, along with a powerful and immediately recognizable design.

Designers, watchmakers and engineers set to work on creating a line perfectly tailored to the specific demands of women fully prepared to use masculine “weapons of mass seduction”. Nonetheless, they soon realized that a single model could barely hope to satisfy such a broad spectrum of expectations. This naturally led to the decision to offer two lines with two case sizes: a small size intended to delicately but firmly match the typical feminine way of wearing a
watch; and a more generously proportioned model that will appeal to women wishing to sport a watch that catches the eye at first glance.

The aesthetics of the Reverso Squadra Lady dial are imbued with a rich diversity: straight transferred numerals standing out against a silver-coloured dial base in order to preserve the sporting spirit of the Reverso Squadra; or floral numerals set against a sunburst guilloché motif and underscored by two rows of diamonds allying a taste for performance with the secret aspirations of the feminine heart, driven by the conviction that only the sparkle of stones is worthy to illuminate the passing of time.

And since the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux wishes to provide women fascinated by the Reverso Squadra with a comprehensive range of refined models, each version comes in a broad variety of materials, featuring a number of variations on a theme in yellow gold, pink gold or steel, either polished or exquisitely adorned with diamonds.

Reverso Squadra Classique and Reverso Squadra Lady: for those who like to forget time

A sports watch, however feminine and distinctive and especially if it bears the Jaeger-LeCoultre signature, must offer a choice among various movements, according to the wishes and lifestyle of each of its future owners. Jaeger-lecoultre Calibre 657 provides the user-friendliness of a quartz movement, as well as a second face left free for an engraving that makes each timepiece a personalized gem.

Reverso Squadra Lady automatic: a refined watch movement

Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 966, a mechanical automatic model, is distinguished by a 42-hour power reserve and a date display cleverly inserted within the number 6. All the automatic models feature a sapphire crystal caseback enabling women who appreciate fine watchmaking to admire the smooth working of its intricate mechanism.

Reverso Squadra Lady Duetto : two times, one movement

And finally, since each Reverso Squadra is first and foremost a swivel watch, how could the makers deprive the new collection of the fabulous Duetto concept, which simultaneously reveals two faces of time? The principle is the same as ever, with one face set with diamonds and featuring a date display and an exquisite day/night disc adorned with sun and moon symbols. The back, which is devoted to a straightforward hour and minute display, also pays tribute to Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 968, through a discreet aperture in the centre of the guilloché-patterned dial that reveals the movement’s oscillating weight. Once again, Reverso Squadra enthusiasts will be spoilt for choice, since the new Duetto is available in steel with gem setting on the front along with white and black dials, or in a pink gold version with gem-setting on both sides, along with white and black dials.

Regal apparel

The innovative Reverso Squadra Lady is also distinguished by its novel interchangeable strap system. This clever device enables one to change strap in a flash without any tool whatsoever. Thus, when changing out of daywear for a smarter evening look, it becomes as easy as anything to remove the practical articulated rubber strap and replace it with an elegant leather strap. This gesture will soon become as familiar to the lucky owner of a Reverso Squadra as swiveling the case to reveal the gem-set face, as the stars begin to twinkle in the sky above.

The pink gold version of the Reverso Squadra Lady Duetto associates the glowing precious metal with a black leather or rubber strap. On the steel version, white is the keynote for the leather straps, or black for the rubber strap. In the other versions, yellow gold and steel are married with white leather or rubber. This vast array of choices, colors and materials gives rise to fascinating matches such as steel and diamonds or pink gold and leather, forming a whirling
carousel of happy whims and fancies.

The Reverso Squadra is thus successfully interpreted in the feminine mode while betraying nothing of its masculine and sporting roots. It is as practical as ever and well suited to life’s many circumstances thanks to its clarity, its reliability and its sturdiness. Indeed, choosing the Reverso Squadra betokens a bold determination to wear a sporting watch with a highly distinctive style and genuine technical and horological substance. Women now also speak men’s language. Their exclusive preserve remains a unique aura of elegance imbued with unmistakable refinement, but they now also share the masculine prerogatives of strength and boldness.

Reverso

The reversible case is a Jaeger-LeCoultre creation that has remained unique in the world since 1931. A timeless symbol of the Art Deco movement, the Reverso is the most classic of all rectangular watches. It was born from a challenge set by British colonial army officers in India, who wanted to have a watch capable of withstanding the inevitable hard knocks endured during a polo match. On one side, it displays the time with unerring precision, while the other either conceals or gives time an entirely new face in the shape of a second time zone, a sapphire
crystal revealing the movement, a monogram, or a gem-set motif. The two faces of the Reverso watch comprise countless different facets.

2008 SIHH Preview: IWC Vintage Collection Jubilee Edition 1868-2008

2008-03-27T10:48:00.016-05:00

At this years SIHH IWC will be celebrating 140 years by introducing six “Vintage” series watches as renditions of their past venerable models: the Portuguese, Ingenieur, Pilot’s Watch, Da Vinci, Aquatimer, Portofino. All legends of IWC in their own right they are being reintroduced as modernized new models with careful respect to their vintage roots.

Some are introduced with current series produced models
automatic IWC movements and some with hand-wound pocket watch movements based on the legendary Jones 98-calibre. The evolution of the aesthetic is surely inspired by the original pieces with some updated changes although still very closely mirroring their forefathers. The main distinguishing change in wrist presence and appearance is displayed in increased case sizes over vintage models.

The collection of six watches
is available in stainless steel with a black dial as a regular production and limited numbers in platinum with a silverized dial. First 140 platinum pieces are reserved as a special collectors set of six watches, each collectively numbered, and set in beautiful leather custom case.

Here are the individual pieces specifications from the IWC press file:

Pilot’s Watch Hand-Wound
Ref. IW3254

Features:

Homage to IWC’s first watch specifically for pilots from 1936, with hand-wound pocket watch movement and rotating bezel, platinum model limited to 500 watches

Movement
Caliber 98300
Vibrations 18,000/ h / 2.5 Hz
Jewels: 18
Power reserve: 46 h
Winding: Manual

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel.
Glass: sapphire, convex, anti reflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 6 bar
Diameter: 44mm
Height: 12mm

Weight:
Watch in platinum with black calf leather strap 145 g
Watch in stainless steel with black calf leather strap 89 g

Portuguese Hand-wound:
Ref: IW5445

Features:

Homage to the first IWC Portuguese watch of 1939, hand-wound pocket watch movement, platinum model limited to 500 watches.

Movement
Caliber 98295
Vibrations 18,000/ h / 2.5 Hz
Jewels: 18
Power reserve: 46 h
Winding manual:

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, crossed out, anti reflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 44mm
Height: 10mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 103 g
Watch in stainless steel with black crocodile leather strap 77 g

Ingenieur Automatic
Ref. IW3233

Features:

Homage to the first Ingenieur with automatic movement from 1955, with the 0111-calibre
movement successor with Pellaton winding system, platinum model limited to 500 watches

Movement
Caliber 80111
Vibrations 28,800/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 28
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: automatic

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, crossed out, anti reflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 12 bar
Diameter: 42.5mm
Height: 14.5mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 163 g
Watch in stainless steel with black crocodile leather strap 99 g

Aquatimer Automatic
Ref. IW3231

Features:

Homage to the first IWC diver’s watch, the Aquatimer from 1967, with an inner rotating
bezel and the current 80111-calibre automatic movement with Pellaton winding system,
platinum model limited to 500 watches.

Movement
Caliber 80111
Vibrations 28,800/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 28
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: automatic

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 12 bar
Diameter: 44mm
Height: 14.5mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 193 g
Watch in stainless steel with black rubber strap 122 g

DaVinci Automatic
Ref. IW5461

Features:

Homage to the first (electronic) Da Vinci, but with the 80111-calibre automatic movement with Pellaton winding system, platinum model limited to 500 watches.

Movement
Caliber: 80111
Vibrations 28,800/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 28
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: automatic

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, convex, anti reflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 42mm
Height: 13.5mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 166 g
Watch in stainless steel with black crocodile leather strap 115 g

Portofino Hand-Wound
Ref. IW5448

Features:

Homage to the original Portofino Reference 5251, with pocket watch movement and extremely precise moon phase display, platinum model limited to 500 watches

Movement
Caliber: 98800
Vibrations 18,000/ h / 2.5 Hz
Jewels: 18
Power reserve: 46 h
Winding: manual

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, crossed out, antireflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 46mm
Height: 11mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 121g
Watch in stainless steel with black crocodile leather strap 85 g

Antiquorum's "Rolex Revolution" Auction

2008-03-20T23:09:00.007-05:00

Looks like this is going to be another milestone auction for Rolex vintage watches (to be held in on Thursday, 17 April, Antiquorum NY). There is a great preview of what to expect in terms of amazing quality and completeness of pieces that will be offered, spanning the whole history of Rolex, in this link Antiquorum's "Rolex Revolution" Auction from Timezone Rolex Vintage forum by Paul Boutros. There will be also hardcover auction catalog available ($75) as well as a free online PDF file(available here for download - Warning it is HUGE!) which will cover all these pieces in detail which could be a nice reference to own. There are many spectacular and quite rare pristine examples on the auction so even if you can't compete in the auction it would a real pleasure to at least make it to the preview and be able to see them in person. Unfortunately I will not be able to make the auction as I will be returning from my SIHH/Geneva trip, but I guess it's a fair trade off. ;-)

I also consider this to be an important auction that will definitely establish where does the current market for vintage Rolex stand and where will it go from now on. It's no secret to anyone who follows the vintage market that Rolex has been the single continuously overachieving superstar breaking all records in the secondary markets in the last half of this decade. Moreover every time the market was predicted to be overly exuberant or even simply overpriced (with fears of bubble bursting announced monthly and looming continuously in the eyes of collectors) to the bewilderment of all this market insatiable and seemingly limitless demand for quality vintage Rolex is simply unstoppable. I believe that with so many new flush entrants in the vintage Rolex market (especially those with New Money from the oil rich and new market economy superstars from places like far East, Russia, etc.) these prices can be sustained due to the fairly limited supply especially when considering that with the passage of time the relative lack of supply (I even dare say rarity) of top conditioned, complete and proven provenance pieces available. Despite the slowdown in majority of worldwide economies, especially the very real crisis looming in the US with expected slowdown in luxury spending which has detracted many of the "local" US based spending, the added weak dollar has just acted as opposite draw and attracted overseas buyers as more then ample replacements for all the "FX created bargains" to be plucked "overseas".

As with everything Crème de la Crème in life, in this case top prices of fine vintage timepieces, are not only sustainable, but are certain to always demand and receive willing buyers who want nothing but the very best - no matter does the asking price seem, for a lack of a better word, reasonable (at least to most of us mere mortals). IMO this one auction, for us vintage Rolex aficionados, will be the one to watch and closely analyze for future clues to the direction of this crazy thing that makes us tick with so much joy.

Rolex 2008 BaselWorld Rumors

2008-03-20T15:02:00.011-05:00

Supposedly there are rampant rumors of some breakthrough novelties to be introed at this year BaselWorld by Rolex. As with every year these are just that rumors so many times I really don't take for much or at least with considerable grain of salt. This time the difference is that they seem to be coming from few different sources (All supposed to be from official Rolex insiders and/or legitimate employees with such knowledge). Although all of these could be a complete disinformation or just plain internet scuttlebutt I wanted to have them compiled and noted ahead of the unveiling just to be able to revisit to see what was indeed true or not. So not to beat too much around the bush there should be "up to 10 new novelties" introduced:

1. New Seadweller with doomed glass, maxi dial and ceramic bezel ala the new GMT-II.

2. New Seadweller case size, bracelet and movement.

3. New Sports watch (either the larger Seadweller or modified case).

4. Daytona modified (Pink gold and/or PVD?).

5. New Submersible (see points #1, #2 and #3 above).

6. All gold Sub introduced this year.

7. New larger (44/43/42mm) then current 40mm model (an update of either Sub or Seadweller).

8. GMT II with two color ceramic bezel in red and blue.

9. Re-endition of the legendary Jean Claude Killy.

10. Re-endition of the Dato Compax.

2008 Horology fairs: BaselWorld And SIHH

2008-03-20T15:01:00.002-05:00

Again April rolls around and same as the changing seasons the time of the watch fairs is upon us again. Halleluiah! is the proverbial shout from all the horology aficionados.

Last year was a great time at the fairs. Especially in Geneva which was such a treat to revisit all over again. Geneva should really be crowned as a sort of Disneyland for the WIS, well actually for any bon vivant, and should be at minimum of one time must see for any WIS (once a year for me that is).

This year unfortunately I will not be able to make BaselWorld, but I am happy to report that I have just confirmed my traveling plans for this year SIHH. I should have sufficient time to cover all the exhibitors at SIHH as well some other brands not present at either BaselWorld or SIHH so you will have my in depth report just like last year.

What am I expecting this year? Well to be honest a lot! I know of a few things that have been in the works for the past year (or in some cases even more) from a few brands I like. I am hoping to see the final unveilings and outcomes of so many talented watchmakers/designers hard work. There should be some pretty groundbreaking stories to report: from vintage icons of old being reborn for a new generation, to novel applications of hi-tech materials (actual improvements to horology instead of just marketing ploys), to positive changes in attitudes of approach (listening to their consumers desires) of some old time brands, to some pretty innovative and bespoke finished complications to collectively amaze us all.

I am also hoping for no more clichés of years past and repetitive additions of yet another (un)special/(un)limited editions which are IMHO just plain useless to the true horology aficionados. As much as I like larger size watches and think they need to be realistically represented in the market not every single model or brand needs to follow the bigger is better mantra. As well let’s please not get overly excited with emblazoning too many diamonds and all sort of varied array of colored precious stone on bezels, dials and bracelets. Lastly and notably keep the prices honest – the great horology renaissance was immense for all brands (some deservedly so, some which got a new lease on life and some that merely rode the big kahunas wave) but do NOT make the mistake like an overindulgent hotshot and overplay your hand. The times are changing (so are economic situations) so let’s not have an experience of a big bust so soon after the big bang. In the end a lot of good was created during this horology renaissance and it would be a great shame if we would wind up loosing this momentum (seeing as in the end we would all end up loosing en masse).

Seven Deadliest ….

2008-03-15T23:42:00.004-05:00

No not the seven deadly sins rather the magnificent horological seven. Seven Wonders of the World a very interesting article featuring a comparison of today’s horological cream of the crop Grand Complications.

Featuring the following watches:

Audemars Piguet 'Grand Complication'
Blancpain '1735'
Franck Muller 'Mega'
I.W.C. 'Grand Complication'
Jaeger-LeCoultre 'Tryptych'
Patek Philippe 'Sky Moon Tourbillon'
Vacheron Constatin 'Tour de L'ile'

From Spring 2008 Vox Magazine / Antiquorum
Brandon Thomas (Director, Horological Expert) - Geneva Office

I have to concur with Brandon’s findings especially his astute conclusion as to the ultimate “winner” (perhaps better to say the preferred choice) in this great company of the magnificent seven achievements of the utmost horological scale. As unattainable to mere mortals are they all - they are non the less, if not even more, impressive to experts and collectors alike. Hope you enjoy the reading.

Habanos Regional Edition (Edición Regional) Series.

2008-03-01T01:18:00.005-06:00

Habanos Regional Edition (Edición Regional) Series.

Since 2005, Habanos SA has released the Regional Edition (Edición Regional) Series. The phenomenal success of the German 5th Avenue Gold Medal release in 2004 is considered by many as the real initiating factor to the Regional Release series.

Initially, the worldwide Global & Niche brands were excluded from this series, but in 2007 a "Montecristo" was released in Mexico under the Edmundo Dante brand name.

The Regional Edition (ER) cigars are special limited-production cigars made for specific regional markets on a (normally) once-off basis and are available for a 1 or 2 year period. After this, the cigar can be considered by Habanos for inclusion in the current production range. Each release is initiated by the Regional Distributor, who underwrites the setup costs. Some distributors elect to reissue in the second year. Reissue cigars are identical but the box leaflet has a statement "Its great acceptance encourages us to present this edition again.....".

The cigars may be new vitolas or reinstated old vitolas. The cigars normally have two bands. The main band is normally standard production but can be a modified or old replica band. The second band is a uniform regional edition band (red & silver) printed with the word "Exclusivo" and the Region Name (in Spanish). The 2005 UK release only had a single band.

The Spanish region names are as follows: (incomplete)
• Alemania - Germany
• Asia Pacifico - Asia Pacific
• Benelux - Belgium
• Canadá - Canada
• España - Spain
• Francia - France
• Medio Oriente - Middle East
• Mexico- Mexico
• Reino Unido - United Kingdom

Chronological Regional Edition (Edición Regional) series releases:

2005 RE This first year had 5 releases.
• Italy - Punch - Superfinos
• Italy - Ramon Allones - Seleccion Suprema
• Switzerland - Ramon Allones - Eminencia
• Switzerland - Punch - Robustos
• UK - Ramon Allones - Belicoso
________________________________________
2006 RE This year had 6 new releases.
• Asia Pacific - Punch - Super Robusto
• Asia Pacific - Ramon Allones - Estupendo
• France - Bolivar - Libertadores
• France - Juan Lopez - Obus
• Germany - Por Larranaga - Lonsdales
• Germany - Bolivar - Colosales
________________________________________
2007 RE This year had 8 new releases.
• Asia Pacific - Por Larranaga - Robusto
• Baltic States - El Rey del Mundo - Vikingos
• Belgium - Ramon Allones - Specially Selected Gran Robusto
• Canada - Bolivar - Simones
• Middle East - Bolivar - Double Coronas
• Spain - Vegas Robaina - Maestros
• UK - Por Larranaga - Magnificos
• Mexico - Montecristo Edmundo Dantes - El Conde 109
________________________________________
2008 RE This year 17 new releases are proposed.
• Arab Emirates - Punch - Robusto
• Asia Pacific - Bolivar - Shorts
• Asia Pacific - Por Larranaga - Belicosos Extra
• Caribbean - Juan Lopez - Petit Piramides
• Caribbean - La Gloria Cubana - Marshall
• France - Bolivar - Petit Libertador
• France - Ramon Allones - Especial
• Hong Kong - Bolivar - Harmony
• Italy - El Rey del Mundo - Especiales
• Italy - Punch - Diadema
• Middle East - Ramon Allones - Phoenicios
• Portugal - Vegas Robaina - Petit Robusto
• Spain - Ramon Allones - Grandes
• Switzerland - Bolivar - Legendarios
• Switzerland - Juan Lopez - Maximo
• United Kingdom - Punch - Piramides
• United Kingdom - La Gloria Cubana - Gloriosos

Information from www.cubanCigarWebsite.com

Habanos Edición Limitada - Limited Edition Series

2008-03-01T01:12:00.007-06:00

Habanos Edición Limitada - Limited Edition Series

Since 2000, Habanos SA has released the Limited Edition (Edición Limitada aka EL) series from within their premium brands. The EL series distinguishes itself by the release of cigars that are not part of the current production range. Initially, the cigars were manufactured using a selection of two-year old aged wrappers from the upper level of the plant, to produce a unique darker color. From 2007 on, the binder and filler leaves were also aged for two years. The EL’s are produced for that year only and being highly sought after they typically fetch a higher premium on the retail market. Selective series if they are hugely successful more often than not are reproduced a few years later as a regular series.

Chronological Limited Edition (Edición Limitada) series releases:

2000 LE The first release of this series involved four brands.
• Hoyo de Monterrey - Particulars
• Montecristo - Robustos
• Partagas - Piramides
• Romeo y Julieta - Exhibicion No.2
________________________________________
2001 LE These cigars were not released until mid 2002, but have 2001 limited edition bands.
• Cohiba - Piramides
• Hoyo de Monterrey - Particulars
• Montecristo - Double Corona
• Partagas - Serie D No.3
• Romeo y Julieta - Robustos
________________________________________
2002 LE No releases this year due to the late release of the 2001 LE cigars.
________________________________________
2003 LE This release involved five brands.
• Cohiba - Double Coronas
• Hoyo de Monterrey - Piramides
• Montecristo - Montecristo C
• Partagas - Serie D No.2
• Romeo y Julieta - Hermoso No.1
________________________________________
2004 LE This release involved four brands.
• Cohiba - Sublimes
• Hoyo de Monterrey - Epicure Especial
• Partagas - Serie D No.1
• Romeo y Julieta - Hermoso No.2
________________________________________
2005 LE This release involved three brands.
• H Upmann - Magnum 50
• Montecristo - Montecristo D
• Romeo y Julieta - Petit Piramides
________________________________________

2006 LE This is the Fifth Anniversary of the Limited edition Series. It involved a re-issue of three of the most popular LE cigars to date.
• Cohiba - Piramides
• Montecristo - Robustos
• Partagas - Serie D No.3
________________________________________
2007 LE This release involves three brands. This was the first release where all the tobacco (wrapper, binder, & filler) has been aged two years.
• Hoyo de Monterrey - Regalos
• Romeo y Julieta - Escudos
• Trinidad - Ingenio
________________________________________
2008 LE This release will involve three brands.
• Cuaba - Piramides
• Montecristo - Sublimes
• Partagas - Serie D No.5

Information from www.cubanCigarWebsite.com

It's again that great forbidden smoking time of the year – 10th Habanos Festival

2008-03-01T01:06:00.003-06:00

From 25th to 29th February, La Habana, was a venue of the 10th Habanos Festival which is a center point of the distributors, specialists and lovers of the best cigar in the world. During that time the presentation were held of all of the novelties to be incorporated to the Habanos portfolio in 2008, to the cigar aficionados world .
Inside the Habanos Festival besides the novelties for 2008 the most pleasurable experience must be the local of Havana which create a unique atmosphere to fully enjoy the unique aroma, flavors and texture of the Habanos, the true celebrated stars of the Festival.

Habanos Novelties

There are three new Limitadas officially announced for the 2008 that will debut during the Habanos Festival, including the Partagas Serie D No. 5, Cuaba Piramid, and the Montecristo Sublimes. The great news is that also the H. Upmann Magnum 50 (which was a Limitada a few years back) will become a regular line, as will something from Hoyo de Monterrey the line extension to Epicure which would be Epicure Especial, which was as well a 2004 EL.
Another thing worth of a note is the addition of few new Tubos (like the super cool black on red Partagas Serie P No. 2) to the market, as with the previous few years that saw the intro of the hugely successful Romeo y Julieta Short Churchill, Cohiba Siglo II, VI, etc.

CA’s James Suckling tasting of the Habanos 2008 Edición Limitadas:

Cuaba Piramides
6 1/8 by 52 ring
This is the same size as the popular Montecristo No. 2. It is super refined and long with light coffee and nutty character. Full flavored with a long finish. Gorgeous and fresh. All is in balance. Perfect draw.
93 points (non blind)

Montecristo Sublimes
6 1/2 by 54 ring
The strongest of the three, it shows lots of espresso bean, roasted meat and earth under the tobacco. Full and rich. Long and flavorful. Full throttle.
92 points (non blind)

Partagas Serie D No. 5
4 1/3 by 50 ring
This is essentially a Serie D No. 4 but short. However, it has a different flavor profile and is more spicy. The cigar comes across a little herbal at first but turns to dried flowers. Full and balanced with a spicy finish. I smoked three yesterday. The more I smoke them, the more I like them.
91 points (non blind)

All of these sound very tasty and they should be available in a few month so hopefully I will have a chance to sample all of them and report with my personal impressions.

Winter Blues All Around Me

2008-02-29T23:23:00.007-06:00

This winter has been brutal and is simply killing me emotionally. The sheer severity of the cold weather, short muggy dreary days and overall my inability to function is effectively slowly doing me in. Lack of daily enjoyment of sun, almost non existent outdoor activity, no motivation for any sports or exercise is leaving me demoralized and just plain useless. This is probably the reason I don’t spend much time contemplating and discussing all those things that usually make my grey matter tick. I surely can’t wait for a little change of scenery, a few sun rays and that simple magic which that beautiful change of seasons finally brings. I know we all go through it, but this time it’s got me real bad - the good old winter blues.

First post in 2008 … what?

2008-01-30T00:08:00.000-06:00

Well I have been quite busy wrapping things up left over from last year and dealing with all the challenges the New Year presents. This year I decided not to have many New Years resolutions as frankly unless one is really adamant about change they really never work out as planned. So firstly I will not be bullshitting myself or you for that matter with excuses like the one you just read in the first sentence. We all heard by now that much overused line of “excuses are like assholes as everyone has one!” so I will not be that lame and end up using it on myself. So what am I getting at?

Basically in the last few months I was just not motivated, simply too lazy to write something that I would not consider meaningful to post. Although I stated at the initiation of this blog I would write my daily thoughts, musings & interests about anything that currently makes me tick, well I just never actually followed up on it as I didn’t find it that interesting to be writing about. The reason was that when I wrote about these things they just sounded like ramblings and not something that I would be proud to publish. So this made me think am I being true to my blog mission statement? No excuses, it was decision time. The resolution is that from now I will not self edit this blog, not in regards to the content, writing style or any kind of suitability. So expect more posts, thoughts & opinions as often they come to me you’ll see it next here – promise.

Ulysse Nardin new E catalog

2007-12-04T17:43:00.001-06:00

Check out this pretty cool E catalog by ULYSSE NARDIN

Another Bullseye by Patek! THE Nautilus 5980/1a

2007-11-21T17:59:00.000-06:00

After I had a chance previously to closely examine and enjoy the lovely 5960p it was about time for some playtime with its Nautilus brethren - 5980/1A .

IMO aesthetically I do prefer the annual calendar case shape and that lovely charcoal dial tone yet I find a better harmonization of balanced design with the single subdial Chrono in the Nautilus case.

Another difference I also noticed is how they inverted the color combo on the outer ring of the subdial and the center of the dial is now color matching the rest of the dial all IMHO contributing to the better aesthetics.

The movement is the same column wheel principle chrono in the same level of finishing as its larger sibling.

Same goes for a well fitted and sturdy constructed bracelet that fits almost like a luxurious piece of jewelry.

The Chrono rectangular yet oval shaped pushers are well placed under a 45% angle in both upper/lower right hand corner separated by a protruding crown. The execution is fine and the pushers have a firm yet solid feel once pressed.

The overall height and weight of the piece is slightly larger then a comparable 5712 Nautilus cousin very much akin to difference between Rolex Sub and Sea dweller.

I rather like the way the hands are all in the same style especially the way H/M hands are matching the hour indices.

The one thing I don’t care about is the date and its 3 o’clock positioning yet I certainly understand the need for it in this sporty piece.

Once one gets over the “atypical” Chrono time display it really does make more sense then an ordinary but cluttered 3 or classic 2 subdial chronometry representation. In fact after a week on ones wrist one might conclude it is actually an optimal way to represent & measure the passage of time.

Overall I found 5980 to be a very pleasurable watch for daily wear which certainly is evident by the enormous global demand making it a bonified hard to obtain piece.

Personally I have never been a fan of Nautilus or other related Genta’s designed creations yet find this model to be unexplainably rocking to its own tune.

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