Mocha Focus & Refocus

Focus

Refocus

more to come ...

Polaris forever

Three and a half years later still my favorite & most unique alarm complication - never duplicated, always admired staying a classic forever. So glad it was brought back from the depths back into the rightfully earned spotlight. Pretty much the one that started the whole vintage tribute trend these days seen across the horology industry ... more to come.

Ah the très sexy Polaris - 10 months and still a love affair ...

I know I haven't posted in a while, so I thought it would very much appropriate to get back to what has been in my horological sphere lately with proclaiming my ongoing love affair with this perfect baby - still going strong well over 10 months with no sign of quitting ;-)


I especially love it on this custom vintage tanned cognac calf (whose color I have always difficulty describing for some reason) and ever since spring it has been my main go to choice for a daily wearer. Just love the compliment of the vintage look with that color and the way the stitching is perfectly matched to aged tanned look of SuperLuminova - ah the details that make the perfection.


Taking it for my summer vacation where it will be at home in the deep blue of the Adriatic. I will finally switch it back to the very comfortable OEM tropic which is after all the reason this was made for - underwater and very sunny conditions.

Lastly upon my return I decided I will provide you with my one year anniversary review of this very special piece to me.

Horology News: Jaeger-LeCoultre Wins Focus' "Goldene Unruh 2009"

Some really great news for Jaeger LeCoultre and Memovox Polaris fans, on February 26th in Stuttgart, Focus (the watch contest organized by a renowned German publication) won "Goldene Unruh 2009". For the first time in many years JLC won a first prize. In the category 10.000 - 25.000 EUR the Memovox Tribute to Polaris succeeded over Glashütte Original and Lange & Söhne. Also Master Ultra Thin (up to 5.000 EUR) and Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 (over 25.000 EUR) were very successful both came in 4th place.

This is IMO especially crowned JLC achievement as German magazines are known to be very astute, analytical and some of the best horological publication especially when considering that it bested its German rivals in its class. So congratulation to Jaeger LeCoultre on yet another achievement and another successful accolade to be added to Memovox Tribute to Polaris whose legend keeps on growing by each passing day.

Info via Marc Menant from Jeager LeCoultre

2008 BaselWorld and SIHH: Horology Market Impressions

2008 BaselWorld and SIHH Impressions

These are in short some of the most prevalent impressions of market trends that I noticed & few of my humble opinions that I would dare to contemplate at this time:

- new various complications by majority of industry in my humble observation for the sake of public shock and awe or as some would say bragging rights rather then for the true sake of practical (if not just useful) horology innovations (excluding a few honorable mentions)

- again like last year prevalent usage of unusual materials (alusic, zenithium, hublonium, tantalum, magnesium, ceramic and lithium) prevalent on the case aesthetic side and to some extent in the movement side of watch making. Definite trend in the across board contribution of all non traditional watch materials, but with notable addition of practical usage of the movement side of things (silicum balance spring, easium carbonitride, ceramic ball-bearings, etc)

- steel and gold seems are no longer the prevailing big guns of the watchmaking arsenal. Brands are continuing to venture down this less-trodden path (from last years bronze of Genta, forged carbon of AP, fusion of materials of Hublot, rusted Titanic steel of Romain Jerome, etc) to new dimensions of materials that were borrowed from many different sectors and in some instances R&D’ed on their own. More on this at a later time.

- reissue of older venerable names of the past as new years models. Some executed perfectly (like the Tribute to Polaris by MJLC) and some following the lead and utilizing it as a new strategy to a lesser extent (IMO Longines and to some extent IWC).

- demand for larger cases is still prevalent even though there is a some easing of that pressure across the board by the resurgence of movement towards less “flashy” if not more restrained case sizes.

- importance of focus on the new “emerging economies” markets (China, Russia, India and Middle East) over the “traditional” markets of Europe and US especially in regards to the top level market segment pieces.

- continuing development into the “bling” segment of horology development due to insatiable appetites of the “nouveaux riches” customers whose rise from common poverty left an ongoing rising demand to show off their newfound riches.

- continuing increase in the average cost of the watches across the segment thus making the accessibility of this hobby of ours further out of reach for many especially when considering the higher brackets of Haute Horology.

More in depth analysis of market, respective brands, selective models and imperative points we are faced to follow.

Exclusive - JLC's Tribute to Memovox Polaris: Paris Boutique Launch Party

On April 3rd at the MJLC Paris Boutique there was a preview launch party to the much awaited upcoming 2008 SIHH model the rendition and rebirth of the Polaris.

Already so much has been said about this legendary vintage piece and finally officially announced the tribute to this piece in this press release published last week, yet there was no confirmed photos of the prototypes in the real world. Well the wait is over.

Being that these are not professional photos, but rather real life photos taken to share firsthand this news with all of the worldwide aficionados of JLC and Polaris, please excuse the overall quality and obtrusive lighting. Do note that this are working prototypes which should indicate the final look of the pieces although some minor changes are possible to the final versions. Special thanks goes to my buddy Asi for taking care of business of being the reporter with camera on hand.

Much has been painstakingly taken care of to preserve each detail and nuance of the past in order to pay the respects to the legend with the most accurate tribute.

From the presentation box complete with a certificate of origin and a booklet telling the story of the now legendary watch.



The two models that made the most lasting impact on their era were chosen for the 2008 re-editions, the first corresponds to the original Memovox Polaris, as it was launched in 1965 which will be a LE limited edition of 165 (EDITED: changed from 65) in 950 platinum (which is not shown here, but expect it to be very similar to Paris Boutique Edition).

The second is the most famous model of all, created in 1968, this stainless steel 1968 model comes in a limited edition of 768.


Finally the special Paris Boutique Edition, in order to commemorate the place where the idea of a tribute was born and further developed to its present state, a stainless steel model that comes in a limited edition of 65 pieces.


Compared to their vintage contraparts I think they stack very good and pay a careful notion to featuring almost all of their essential characteristics to most painstaking detail.

1968 model: vintage on left and tribute on right. The main indications on the re-edition of the most famous 1968 model are aged patina style luminescent. This star model is also distinguished by its open worked baton-type hands and its large trapeze-shaped hour-markers.


As with the vintage the large round 42 mm-diameter case with polished finishing and no visible bezel cuts a stunning figure and very comfortably on the wrist.

The alarm time indicator is immediately recognizable by means of a luminescent triangle in the dial center. Controlled by the alarm crown, the central disc turns to line up the triangle with the desired alarm time.


The Paris Boutique SE, 1965 re-edition, has nickel-plated and polished straight hour-markers, Arabic numerals, luminescent rhodium-plated dauphine hands and the Automatic Alarm Calendar inscriptions.



The 1965 models: tribute on left and vintage on right.


Polaris Trio: left vintage 1968, middle Paris Boutique 1965 tribute and right 1968 tribute.


Loyal to the black dial of their predecessors, each replica bears its own signature features as seen on this duo coupling of vintage and tribute pairs.


Some special attention to details true to the original easily visible are:

Synthetic plexi glass forming the original domed shape of the Polaris watch.


The case is equipped with a crown at 3 o’clock, framed by the two distinctive Memovox crowns.


The back of the Memovox Tribute to Polaris models features outer back with 16 round openings, secured to the water resistance back in harmony with the original design. The latter is adorned with an engraving inspired by the original ‘compressor’ diving helmet and a set of technical information.


Also featured with the watch are black leather strap and small ardillion pin buckle.



Again I would love to extend my gratitude to the wonderful Team MJLC and Paris Boutique for recreating the magic of the vintage Polaris with this tribute to joy of JLC and Polaris aficionados worldwide. Special note as well to the always attentive Director Yves Meylan whose willingness to listen and consider the demanding voices of few passionate is the reason this project resulted in such spectacular fashion and ultimately have seen the light of day.

2008 SIHH Preview: JLC Polaris

Press file provided by MJLC.

The 1968 Polaris

Memovox Tribute to Polaris, renaissance of a legendary watch.

For 175 years, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been tirelessly inventing and discovering new technical and aesthetic horizons, thus renewing the grand Swiss watchmaking traditions. Both reflecting and perpetuating this vocation, the Memovox Polaris represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration for the creative talents at work in the Manufacture. Regarded as the epitome of the sports watch for the past four decades, the Memovox is an extremely rare timepiece that is fiercely coveted by collectors. Its powerful design, dynamic form and blend of performance and energy continue to pervade all the Jaeger-LeCoultre sporting models to this day: from the Master Compressor Memovox to the AMVOX, as well as the all-new Master Compressor Diving watches. It was therefore high time for the Manufacture to express its gratitude to a watch that has become an icon. And what better tribute could it pay than by opting for faithful replicas equipped with the latest technical innovations inherent to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 21st century automatic movements?

The two models that made the most lasting impact on their era were chosen for the 2008 re-editions, presented under the title of Memovox Tribute to Polaris. The first corresponds to the original Memovox Polaris, as it was launched in 1965. The second is the most famous model of all, created in 1968.



History of a legend


Almost half a century ago, Jaeger-LeCoultre had already left an indelible imprint on the history of diving. The Memovox Deep Sea launched in 1959 was the very first diver’s watch to be equipped with an alarm. The latter served to remind the diver that it was time to return to the surface. It was driven by a Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 815, the first movement in watchmaking history to feature both automatic winding and an alarm function.


Six years later, the Memovox Polaris was born. Representing a new breakthrough in technological history, its triple-back case enabled optimal diffusion of sound under water. Since water resistance is the cornerstone of any diver’s watch, the new model featured the patented Piquerez Compressor system, as well as three super-sealed crowns.

Powered by the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 825, with a balance performing 18,800 vibrations per hour, the Memovox Polar also showed the date through a window at 3 o’clock. In harmony with the size of the case itself, the movement was remarkably large for a wristwatch: 14 lignes, meaning 31.6 mm in diameter, and 7.6 mm thick. In order to meet the specific demands of the American market, the first to show an interest, the Memovox was christened Polaris after the famous American missiles symbolising the Western strike force during the Cold War. But this name mostly echoed the adventurous spirit of the 1960s, distinguished by a determination to travel ever faster and further, in an era when the public at large was fascinated by the space race, ocean discoveries and polar exploration..

Research work began on the Memovox Polaris in 1962, and 1,714 of these watches were made between 1965 and 1970. They were equipped with several types of dial and hands, according to the markets for which they were intended; today, the slightest variations of numerals, hour markers and signatures generates passionate interest among fervent contemporary collectors.

In 2008, Jaeger-LeCoultre honors this legendary model by creating two Memovox Tribute to Polaris replicas. Each is a nod to one of the milestones in the history of this icon watch: the first corresponds to the original Memovox Polaris as launched in 1965; while the second is the most famous of them all, created in 1968.

A 21st century watch that is faithful to the original

To the delight of collectors and avid followers of the emblematic Polaris watch, the two Memovox Tribute to Polaris models faithfully reproduce the 1965 and 1968 models, while featuring their essential characteristics.
First of all, the large round 42 mm-diameter case with polished finishing and no visible bezel, equipped with three crowns featuring a chequered motif. Just as when this model was first introduced, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have inserted the rotating bezel beneath the dial, with its famous central triangle serving as an index for dive times. To facilitate handling, the case is equipped with a crown at 3 o’clock, framed by the two distinctive Memovox crowns. The one at 2 o’clock enables the user to adjust, wind and start or stop the alarm function, which has its own independent barrel. The other one at 4 o’clock services to set and wind the movement.

The alarm time indicator is immediately recognizable by means of a luminescent triangle in the dial centre. Controlled by the alarm crown, the central disc turns to line up the triangle with the desired alarm time.
Loyal to the black dial of their predecessors, each replica bears its own signature features. The 1965 re-edition has nickel-plated and polished straight hour-markers, Arabic numerals, luminescent rhodium-plated dauphine hands, and the Automatic Alarm Calendar inscriptions.

Meanwhile, the main indications on the re-edition of the most famous 1968 model are luminescent. This star model is also distinguished by its open worked baton-type hands and its large trapeze-shaped hour-markers. On both versions, the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo at 12 o’clock embodies this reassuring presence that asserts its mastery over time.

The sapphire crystal – a must in contemporary watchmaking – is exceptionally replaced on these models by a synthetic material forming the original domed shape of the Polaris watch. Purists will certainly concur with this deliberate infringement of current industry rules.

A new movement in the Memovox line

While the Memovox Tribute to Polaris watches are faithful to the spirit and aesthetics of their forerunners, they nonetheless naturally deserved to be equipped with the latest technical innovations by Jaeger-LeCoultre, in order to meet modern demands for precision, sturdiness and reliability.

As the latest interpretation of the automatic Memovox movement, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956 houses the striking mechanism, featuring a gong hanging at the back of the case, along with central seconds and instant-jump date-change system. Measuring 7.45 mm thick, it provides a 45-hour power reserve and a level of precision guaranteed by 28,800 vibrations per hour. Its oscillating weight is equipped with ceramic ball-bearings that require no maintenance or lubrication.

A double-back case guaranteeing water resistance to 200 meters

The historical Memovox Polaris was distinguished by its three-part case. The first element was an inside back in bronze that enhanced the resonance of the alarm sound. The second was a sealed back that protected the precious mechanism from any water seeping in, down to depths of 200 meters. The last was a third back drilled with 16 holes, which prevented the sound being muffled by the watch being squeezed against its owner’s diving suit.

The back of the Memovox Tribute to Polaris models features an inner sealed back that maintains its role as a resonance chamber (an additional bronze back is no longer necessary with a hanging gong), and an outer back with 16 round openings, secured to the water resistance back in harmony with the original design. The latter is adorned with an engraving inspired by the original ‘compressor’ diving helmet and a set of technical information provided inside the case of the original model to symbolize its exceptional water tightness.

A tribute encompassing the smallest details

The Memovox Tribute to Polaris is available in two limited series equipped with a black leather strap and small pin buckle. The 1965 model is issued in a limited edition of 65 in 950 platinum; while the steel 1968 model comes in a limited edition of 768. The two replicas are accompanied by a presentation box inspired by its vintage equivalent, complete with a certificate of origin and a booklet telling the story of the now legendary watch.

Jaeger-LeCoultre has revisited one of the landmarks in its history in order to train the spotlight on a creation embodying a degree of aesthetic and technical perfection that has consistently fired collectors’ enthusiasm and inspired the designers of the Manufacture over the past four decades.