Jeager-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 976 – The Guillermo Ceniceros Special Edition - Full Overview

Jeager-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 976 – The Guillermo Ceniceros Special Edition

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is recognized by watchmaking connoisseurs as an Art Deco icon that stands out from other horological creations with a case that slides at the base and rotates completely on itself. In celebration of the 80th anniversary of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to invite renowned artists and engravers to create exceptional works of art that will be featured on the case back.

It was perhaps this uniqueness and originality that drove Jaeger-LeCoultre to create a unique Special Edition linked to conceptual art that pays homage to the renowned Mexican painter, muralist, and engraver Guillermo Ceniceros. This magnificent association takes shape in the impressive Grande Reverso 976 Guillermo Ceniceros Special Edition.

The first model of the Guillermo Ceniceros Edition features a stainless steel case with lacquer engraving and is limited to 50 pieces.

The second edition is in rose gold, featuring a fully engraved case, and is limited to 10 pieces.

The Reverso has the special ability to exemplify its owners’ unique personalities, and transform their physical and visual styles into the highest forms of art. What better canvas for a work of art than the masterpieces of Guillermo Ceniceros? The world-renowned artist’s murals and engravings embody geometric form, space and harmony, and are featured in public and private collections around the world.

The symbolism of duality has long been a focal point for Ceniceros – from his iconic human faces, to the geometry of the human body, to air and land, and to light and darkness. His vision aligns perfectly with the duality of time – a concept that Jaeger-LeCoultre has mastered through the Reverso.

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jerome Lambert recognized that partnering with Maestro Ceniceros represented an opportunity to bring Mexican artistry to the forefront of haute horology, and foster an even greater appreciation for the company’s classic timepieces, as well as for Ceniceros’ work.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watches promote the highest form of expression, both mechanically and aesthetically. The Reverso has elevated this expression to an art form. The true beauty of the Reverso lies in its unique and personal ties to the artistic community for over 80 years.

The Guillermo Ceniceros Special Edition attributes the precision of time to one face and the stoppage of time to the other face through the artist’s beautiful engravings. This splendid timepiece brings timeless artistry to the forefront of haute watchmaking and is a unique canvas for Guillermo’s renowned works.

“My interest in this collaboration focuses on the metal canvas that the Reverso represents. No other watch offers this. I was interested in being part of the 80th anniversary of an iconic model that has a rich heritage of collaboration with the arts, and now, too, an interest in the arts of Mexico. Art and horology have many things in common – certainly, the theme of precision. My work on the Ceniceros Reverso creates a new, very personal way for owners to relate to my art. I celebrate this.” -Guillermo Ceniceros
 
Artist Biography
Guillermo Ceniceros is an international renowned Mexican artist and one of the country's most important mural painters. His figurative public murals grace universities, hospitals nad the Mexico City subway system, and are enjoyed by over 500,000 people every day. Ceniceros' easel compositions and engravings center around themes such as space, geometry and the female form. These pieces grace the permanent collections of established museums and are part of important private collections, contributing to an aesthetic language and Ceniceros' internationally recognized cultural legacy.  

Technical Specification Grande Reverso 976 – Guillermo Ceniceros Limited Edition CALIBER: Jaeger-LeCoultre 976
MOVEMENT: Hand winding constructed of 151 pieces 

Vibrations per hour: 28,800
Power reserve: 48 hours
Jewels: 19
Barrel: 1 

Height: 4.15 mm
FUNCTIONS: Hour - Minute 
Seconds
CASE: Grande size 30 x 48.5 mm
Stainless steel
 Limited to 50 pieces, REF: Q373847M
Rose gold
 Limited to 10 pieces, REF: Q373247M
DIAL: Vertical black guilloché and Clous de Paris engraving
HANDS AND NUMERALS: Sword, vintage orange tint numerals and hands
STRAP/BRACELET: Alligator leather
BUCKLE: Double folding buckle 20.0 mm

This unique Grande Reverso Ceniceros Edition comes packaged with individual numbered lithograph art that inspired its creation.

With each watch you receive the Guillermo Ceniceros “Setenta Anos” book which chronicles the work of this living legend; a Special Edition Brochure about this project; numbered and signed lithograph displaying the concept art that was used for the engraving of each piece.

The Grande Reverso 976 Guillermo Ceniceros Special Edition was officially launched during the grand opening gala for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Mexico City Boutique, and is the first Mexico City boutique edition of it's kind. Since this special edition holds an unique place both in the hearts of Ceniceros art & watch collectors in the United States Jaeger-LeCoultre has arranged that orders may be booked and delivered thru the Beverly Hills Boutique.

Watch News: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Survivor Chronograph

Over the last year much has been speculated by AP's ferment ROO aficionados about the final design and name of yet another very much talked about AP Special Edition ROO. Well the time has come and it's finally here! On November 6th the day of the Global Launch (sounds so sinister) all of the AP ROO faithful have gather around the world to be finally introduced to a finished product they debated about for so long.


Overall I find the finishing and many of the design cues to be very interesting and well executed in particular my surprise that I'm for once a fan of the execution of the dial which with ROO's can be IMHO very cluttered and dare I say colorfully confusing. The open worked hands and vertical grooved ceramic bezel are another two aesthetically successful details tying up the whole "sinister" design. I also liked that they successful carried on the wider non-tappered vulcanized rubber style strap first introduced on the Team Ainghi LE.


On the other hand what I don't like is cartoonish elements such as these crown guards, notched "gun barrel" rim of the crown, as well as the ratcheted case edge. Then its the usual complaint of YET another LE ROO (number 69 and counting LOL), yet another PVD'd black watch (I thought only Hublot was the company that still thinks that is something innovative) and of course lets not forget the very lame name. No secret here that I am no fanboy of ROO's altogether but c'mon AP how long can you continue following the same old ROO LE thing.

“Survivor” mission:

- Readability, functionality and high precision, the wearer is liable to find himself confronted with an unknown and hostile environment – overpopulated megalopolis, urban jungle cosmic construction sites, etc.
- High-tech architecture: ultra-light, high-resistance materials that adjust to body temperature.
- Design: ergonomic and sophisticated, genetic markers of the Royal Oak Offshore collection pushed to extremes.
- Mechanical performance: exclusive chronograph movement.

Technical specifications:

Follow this link to see the SURVIVOR MOVIE

High-tech materials:

Blackened titanium plays the starring role. This ultra-light material has been chosen for the case and the surrounding elements: studs, push pieces and guards, crown and oversize strap buckle. The same goes for the medallion back featuring a special non-slip texture.

Titanium also shows up on the lower part of the octagonal bezel, while its upper part opts for ceramics. The latter is distinguished by clearly marked vertical grooves reminiscent of the characteristic satin finish of the Royal Oak Offshore collection.

The strap is made from vulcanized rubber, an indispensable part of the extreme sports universe. Its matte black granular surface accentuates the adventurous camouflage-type look of this chronograph issued in a limited edition of 1000.

Shapes and ergonomics:

Each detail is meticulously designed to ensure a blend of efficiency and lightness. The perforations on the bezel lighten up the structure without compromising its sturdiness. The hollowed push pieces equipped with a security look ensure user-friendly handling. In a similar vein, the generous size and notched rim of the crown, as well as the ratcheted case edge, facilitate getting a quick and sure grip on this exceptional instrument. The conical shape of the push pieces guarantees instant activation of the chronograph function, while the skeleton hands, luminescent hour-markers and silver-colored small seconds counter guarantee optimal readability by day or night. And finally, since nothing is left to chance, a careful observer will note the apertures on the case middle and studs.

The Royal Oak Offshore signature features:

- Strongbox-type case water-resistant to 100 meters, with anti magnetic system designed to protect the mechanism from any hostile element
- Hexagonal socket-head screws echoing the legendary hexagonal screws of the Royal Oak Offshore models
- Exclusive “Mega Tapisserie” guilloché pattern on the dial, matched on this model by the checkered motif on the strap
- Strap perfectly integrated with the case

High-precision instrument

The Royal Oak Offshore Survivor houses the exclusive Audemars Piguet self-winding Calibre 3126/3840, guaranteeing sturdiness, reliability and precision rating:
- up to 60 hours’ power reserve thanks to a mainspring which, by supplying constant force over a longer time-span, ensures enhanced rating accuracy;
- a cross-through balance-cock reinforcing the stability of the movement;
- a balance-stop mechanism serving to immobilize the seconds hand and thus enabling time-setting to the nearest second;
- a variable-inertia balance equipped with eight inertia-blocks enabling precise and stable adjustment;
- fast date correction with an integrated security system avoiding any risk of date disc blockage when the adjustment occurs at midnight;
- bidirectional automatic winding of the mainspring by means of a 22-carat gold rotor mounted on a ball-bearing mechanism;


Technical Specifications
Royal Oak Offshore Survivor Chronograph

Reference
26165IO.OO.A002CA.01
Limited series of 1000

Movement
Calibre: 3126/3840, self winding
Total diameter : 26 mm (11 ½ lignes)
Thickness : 7.16 mm
59 jewels
365 parts
Up to 60-hour power reserve
Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Variable-inertia type balance with eight inertia-blocks and a flag balance-spring
Geneva-type mobile balance-spring stud-holder
Three-position winding crown
Finishing: all parts decorated by hand; main plate rhodium-plated, bevelled and stippled; bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

Case
Strongbox-type case with anti magnetic system, cone-shaped pushpieces, hollowed pushpiece guards, crown, crown guard and studs in blackened titanium
Perforated ceramic bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 1.565 mm
Water resistance: 100 metres
Medallion back in blackened titanium with non-slip motif, titanium zone engraved with the inscription Royal Oak Offshore Survivor – Limited Edition

Dial
Matt black, exclusive “Mega Tapisserie” guilloché motif
Snailed hour circle
Luminescent open worked hour and minute hands
Luminescent applied hour-markers

Strap
Vulcanized rubber with chequered motifs and oversized buckle in blackened titanium

Functions
Hours and minutes
Small seconds
Chronograph with central sweep seconds hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters
Tachometer scale around the flange
Date

For more real world photos of the watch as well some excellent coverage of the Survivor launch follow the link posted by TZ's Paul Boutros of the AP NY Boutique event

Exclusive - JLC's Tribute to Memovox Polaris: Paris Boutique Launch Party

On April 3rd at the MJLC Paris Boutique there was a preview launch party to the much awaited upcoming 2008 SIHH model the rendition and rebirth of the Polaris.

Already so much has been said about this legendary vintage piece and finally officially announced the tribute to this piece in this press release published last week, yet there was no confirmed photos of the prototypes in the real world. Well the wait is over.

Being that these are not professional photos, but rather real life photos taken to share firsthand this news with all of the worldwide aficionados of JLC and Polaris, please excuse the overall quality and obtrusive lighting. Do note that this are working prototypes which should indicate the final look of the pieces although some minor changes are possible to the final versions. Special thanks goes to my buddy Asi for taking care of business of being the reporter with camera on hand.

Much has been painstakingly taken care of to preserve each detail and nuance of the past in order to pay the respects to the legend with the most accurate tribute.

From the presentation box complete with a certificate of origin and a booklet telling the story of the now legendary watch.



The two models that made the most lasting impact on their era were chosen for the 2008 re-editions, the first corresponds to the original Memovox Polaris, as it was launched in 1965 which will be a LE limited edition of 165 (EDITED: changed from 65) in 950 platinum (which is not shown here, but expect it to be very similar to Paris Boutique Edition).

The second is the most famous model of all, created in 1968, this stainless steel 1968 model comes in a limited edition of 768.


Finally the special Paris Boutique Edition, in order to commemorate the place where the idea of a tribute was born and further developed to its present state, a stainless steel model that comes in a limited edition of 65 pieces.


Compared to their vintage contraparts I think they stack very good and pay a careful notion to featuring almost all of their essential characteristics to most painstaking detail.

1968 model: vintage on left and tribute on right. The main indications on the re-edition of the most famous 1968 model are aged patina style luminescent. This star model is also distinguished by its open worked baton-type hands and its large trapeze-shaped hour-markers.


As with the vintage the large round 42 mm-diameter case with polished finishing and no visible bezel cuts a stunning figure and very comfortably on the wrist.

The alarm time indicator is immediately recognizable by means of a luminescent triangle in the dial center. Controlled by the alarm crown, the central disc turns to line up the triangle with the desired alarm time.


The Paris Boutique SE, 1965 re-edition, has nickel-plated and polished straight hour-markers, Arabic numerals, luminescent rhodium-plated dauphine hands and the Automatic Alarm Calendar inscriptions.



The 1965 models: tribute on left and vintage on right.


Polaris Trio: left vintage 1968, middle Paris Boutique 1965 tribute and right 1968 tribute.


Loyal to the black dial of their predecessors, each replica bears its own signature features as seen on this duo coupling of vintage and tribute pairs.


Some special attention to details true to the original easily visible are:

Synthetic plexi glass forming the original domed shape of the Polaris watch.


The case is equipped with a crown at 3 o’clock, framed by the two distinctive Memovox crowns.


The back of the Memovox Tribute to Polaris models features outer back with 16 round openings, secured to the water resistance back in harmony with the original design. The latter is adorned with an engraving inspired by the original ‘compressor’ diving helmet and a set of technical information.


Also featured with the watch are black leather strap and small ardillion pin buckle.



Again I would love to extend my gratitude to the wonderful Team MJLC and Paris Boutique for recreating the magic of the vintage Polaris with this tribute to joy of JLC and Polaris aficionados worldwide. Special note as well to the always attentive Director Yves Meylan whose willingness to listen and consider the demanding voices of few passionate is the reason this project resulted in such spectacular fashion and ultimately have seen the light of day.

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original 1878 - Special Edition Moritz Grossmann

For watch city Glashütte, located in Saxony’s Müglitz Valley, May 1, 1878, is an important date in history. On this particular day, the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte was founded on the initiative of watch manufacturer Moritz Grossmann. Rooms from the community school building of the time served as the place of instruction. In its second year of existence, the increasing number of students made building a separate school building a necessity. With the generous support of the state government, the local authority district, and a foundation the new facility located in the heart of the city was inaugurated.

The picturesque city 130 years later: thoroughly renovated and refurbished, the former school building will be inaugurated on May 22, 2008, as the historical home of the German Watch Museum in Glashütte. While on two floors the moving history of Glashütte’s art of watchmaking will be conveyed in a vivid manner, one floor of the renovated building will retain its original function, housing Saxon manufactory Glashütte Original’s own Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking and continuing to keep Moritz Grossmann’s legacy alive.

Glashütte Original’s designers thus created a worthy timepiece in the 1878 – Special Edition Moritz Grossmann in memory of the great pioneer Moritz Grossmann, who combined the past with the present in a most wonderful way. The anniversary model was inspired by the design of historical pocket watches made by students in the 1920s, a timepiece such as this uniquely builds a bridge between the past and the future of Glashütte’s art of watchmaking. Then, as now, they were made as final exams by watchmaker apprentices.


Just one look at the dial is enough to recognize the fusion, and memories of graceful pocket watches of the past come to life. The silver-plated dial is home to sweep hour and minute displays whose blued and polished sword-shaped hands contrast with the background. Loyal to details, the hand arbor is lovingly polished by hand. Glashütte Original’s designers placed the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, while the minute scale and filigreed markers are placed in perfect harmony around the center of the 1878 – Special Edition Moritz Grossmann’s time display.


A lavish manufacturing process goes into making the deceivingly simple surface of the dial. Glashütte Original made the conscious decision to use a vintage tradition: the technique of frosted silver plating, also known as l’argenture grainée. The first step consists of machine-blasting the surface of the brass dial with a mixture of water, chalk, and wood. Then a paste containing silver powder and water is carefully applied by hand to the blasted surface. The result is a charmingly purist dial that magically attracts the observer’s eye with its refined surface structure.


A fluted bezel creates the perfect frame for the dial. The 40-millimeter case, available in white or rose gold, is outfitted with the most modern mechanics: automatic Caliber 100-11. A sapphire crystal case back allows one to observe the perfectly finished insides of the watch with all of its traditional elements belonging to Glashütte’s art of watchmaking close up.


The crowning glory of this special edition is the additional case back it comes with in rose or white gold hand-engraved portrait of Moritz Grossmann. A limited number of 130 pieces each of this watch in white and rose gold will be available worldwide.

Info via Glashütte Original

2008 SIHH Preview: IWC Vintage Collection Jubilee Edition 1868-2008

At this years SIHH IWC will be celebrating 140 years by introducing six “Vintage” series watches as renditions of their past venerable models: the Portuguese, Ingenieur, Pilot’s Watch, Da Vinci, Aquatimer, Portofino. All legends of IWC in their own right they are being reintroduced as modernized new models with careful respect to their vintage roots.



Some are introduced with current series produced models
automatic IWC movements and some with hand-wound pocket watch movements based on the legendary Jones 98-calibre. The evolution of the aesthetic is surely inspired by the original pieces with some updated changes although still very closely mirroring their forefathers. The main distinguishing change in wrist presence and appearance is displayed in increased case sizes over vintage models.



The collection of six watches
is available in stainless steel with a black dial as a regular production and limited numbers in platinum with a silverized dial. First 140 platinum pieces are reserved as a special collectors set of six watches, each collectively numbered, and set in beautiful leather custom case.

Here are the individual pieces specifications from the IWC press file:

Pilot’s Watch Hand-Wound
Ref. IW3254



Features:

Homage to IWC’s first watch specifically for pilots from 1936, with hand-wound pocket watch movement and rotating bezel, platinum model limited to 500 watches

Movement
Caliber 98300
Vibrations 18,000/ h / 2.5 Hz
Jewels: 18
Power reserve: 46 h
Winding: Manual

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel.
Glass: sapphire, convex, anti reflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 6 bar
Diameter: 44mm
Height: 12mm

Weight:
Watch in platinum with black calf leather strap 145 g
Watch in stainless steel with black calf leather strap 89 g


Portuguese Hand-wound:
Ref: IW5445



Features:

Homage to the first IWC Portuguese watch of 1939, hand-wound pocket watch movement, platinum model limited to 500 watches.

Movement
Caliber 98295
Vibrations 18,000/ h / 2.5 Hz
Jewels: 18
Power reserve: 46 h
Winding manual:

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, crossed out, anti reflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 44mm
Height: 10mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 103 g
Watch in stainless steel with black crocodile leather strap 77 g


Ingenieur Automatic
Ref. IW3233



Features:

Homage to the first Ingenieur with automatic movement from 1955, with the 0111-calibre
movement successor with Pellaton winding system, platinum model limited to 500 watches

Movement
Caliber 80111
Vibrations 28,800/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 28
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: automatic

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, crossed out, anti reflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 12 bar
Diameter: 42.5mm
Height: 14.5mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 163 g
Watch in stainless steel with black crocodile leather strap 99 g


Aquatimer Automatic
Ref. IW3231



Features:

Homage to the first IWC diver’s watch, the Aquatimer from 1967, with an inner rotating
bezel and the current 80111-calibre automatic movement with Pellaton winding system,
platinum model limited to 500 watches.

Movement
Caliber 80111
Vibrations 28,800/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 28
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: automatic

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 12 bar
Diameter: 44mm
Height: 14.5mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 193 g
Watch in stainless steel with black rubber strap 122 g


DaVinci Automatic
Ref. IW5461



Features:

Homage to the first (electronic) Da Vinci, but with the 80111-calibre automatic movement with Pellaton winding system, platinum model limited to 500 watches.

Movement
Caliber: 80111
Vibrations 28,800/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 28
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: automatic

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, convex, anti reflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 42mm
Height: 13.5mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 166 g
Watch in stainless steel with black crocodile leather strap 115 g


Portofino Hand-Wound
Ref. IW5448



Features:

Homage to the original Portofino Reference 5251, with pocket watch movement and extremely precise moon phase display, platinum model limited to 500 watches

Movement
Caliber: 98800
Vibrations 18,000/ h / 2.5 Hz
Jewels: 18
Power reserve: 46 h
Winding: manual

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, crossed out, antireflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 46mm
Height: 11mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 121g
Watch in stainless steel with black crocodile leather strap 85 g