The global recession has impacted the once recession-proof Swiss luxury watch business, according to reports from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, the Richemont Group (Cartier’s parent), and the prestigious Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie luxury watch fair in Geneva, Switzerland.
"After several record-breaking years, Swiss watch exports in November—traditionally their best month—declined (by 15.3 percent in value, compared to November 2007) for the first time in almost four years. While all price segments dropped, the fall was greatest (down 30 percent) for watches between about $435 and $2,600 (export prices)."
The declines “clearly illustrates the curb on growth suffered by the industry as a result of the world economic climate,” an FH report said. Watch exports, about 10 percent of all Swiss exports, are expected to be less this year than in 2008.
The 18th SIHH (Jan. 19 -23) expects 15 percent fewer visitors—especially from the United States and Japan—than in 2008, when 17,000 from prestigious retailers worldwide attended the invitation-only event. Some show officials and attendees blame the global economic climate and what one Swiss newspaper calls “this challenging [watch] industry environment.”
Some also suggest holding the SIHH—usually in March/April to coincide with the international Basel, Switzerland, watch fair—in mid-January, due to a scheduling conflict at Geneva’s convention center, is also a factor.
In addition, SIHH’s exhibitors canceled their traditional evening events, normally highlights of the week, which celebrate the luxury watch business, some “to save money,” said a show spokesperson.
Info via JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 1/21/2009.
Showing posts with label SIHH. Show all posts
Showing posts with label SIHH. Show all posts
Thursday, January 29, 2009
Horology News & Commentary: SIHH 2009 Cometh!
As the new year rolls around here cometh the SIHH 2009! Say what?
As announced last year this January appeared first-ever SIHH winter edition which saw some new features in a pretty challenging current global recession environment.
SIHH 2009 displayed the work of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which promotes luxury watchmaking worldwide and is the SIHH’s organizer. The 2009 SIHH featured 17 of the globe’s most prestigious brands (12 owned by the Geneva-based Richemont Group). They are A. Lange & Söhne, Alfred Dunhill, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Girard-Perregaux, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jean Richard, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Ralph Lauren, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Some of the novelties and changes of the years prior:
- The Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry Co, a recent joint venture between the Richemont Group and the Polo Ralph Lauren fashion brand, has joined the SIHH exhibitors and unveiled its first-ever collection of timepieces. This is Richemont’s first joint venture with a luxury fashion designer and Polo Ralph Lauren’s first foray into luxury watches (more details on that later).
- Roger Dubuis will be there in a new light since the purchase by Richemont last year. The purchased manufacture movement kit facility which Richemont will continue to supply to Manufacture Roger Dubuis SA (founded and is managed by Mr Carlos Dias), under the terms of a long-term agreement. They will continue to operate as an independent manufacturer and distributor under the “Roger Dubuis” brand. It will supply the components for high end watch movements, not only for Roger Dubuis but also for Richemont’s own Maisons.
- The FH is showing the newest version of its world-traveling exhibition, “Think Time, Think Swiss Excellence,” not seen previously in Switzerland.
My visit was as well shortened to the years prior thus I didn't take as much as time to go through all the brands 2009 novelties as many of them IMO weren't truly anything groundbreaking nor was there prior years excitement due to the current economic environment affecting us all.
Unfortunately for most of us watch aficionados the main topic on most industry people minds was not the rather weak watch novelties, but instead the economic climate we are all facing in the upcoming months.
The Richemont Group, whose several prestigious international jewelry and watch brands issued a grim report this month. Important third-quarter sales dropped 12 percent overall, and 28 percent in the Americas alone, due to the global financial crisis and a decline in consumer confidence which had “a significant impact” on regional sales, it said. As a result of that the giant Cartier has put almost all 200 full-time workers making watch cases at one of its Swiss watch factories on part-time. From what I hear they are not alone either considering similar actions or already implementing planned cost cutting.
“Demand for luxury goods … has fallen dramatically,” the statement said, “and Richmond is facing the toughest market conditions since its formation 20 years ago.” With the current economic climate and uncertainties, it expects “no significant recovery in the foreseeable future” and will “take the necessary steps to not only see the difficult times through but to emerge stronger.”
From the last data I gathered there were over 600 watch related companies operating in Switzerland last year. Surely this was not all due to overwhelming insatiable demand and expansion of the watch industry seen during the last years of the horology renaissance. There were surely players in the industry that flourished yet there were some that just jumped on the gravy train and anyone (and their mother it seems) was able to get/make/buy a brand name and all of a sudden become a legitimate Swiss watchmaking company. Let's face the facts - there is no way all of them should have existed in the first place nor they will survive the current harsh environment present. This is a good thing as in my humble opinion there is about 30-40% much needed correction of these numbers. This all points that 2009 will be a undoubtedly a year of consolidation, after the unprecedented interest in technical, unique and exquisite watches of recent years had taken the industry to a level which was not reasonably expected to continue further in such manner.
So what can we expect from the year 2009 shakeout?
Only the strong and truly the value brands which were the leaders before and will continue providing not just a pretty shiny package, but a true horology advancement, innovation and value. Those leaders, as you might have suspected, are the bigger conglomerates and companies which sheer scale & magnitude of their resources puts them in the best position to adjust in order overcome this economic downturn.
Although being big company does not guarantee the survival if there is not capable or nimble upper management ready to to adjust their product to this changing market. There will undoubtedly be plenty of consolidation. Smaller fish will be eaten by the bigger and bolder competitors while other brands presenting little of actual horological or marketing value will be left alone to deservedly DIE! This weeding of the weak in the end is a good thing as it will leave us with more healthy and naturally stronger horological field benefiting us all in the end.
We have seen some minor effects already:
- Zenith announced some firings in its watchmaking workforce.
- Villemont seems to be the very first bankruptcy casualty.
- Bedat & Co. is being reported as currently being shut down.
Speaking at SIHH, Bernard Fornas (Cartier International President & CEO), told Reuters that “real, true luxury is back,” because the financial crisis is changing consumers attitudes and buying. “When people are buying something they are very tough with their choice of brands,” he said, and are now more likely to favor “strong” luxury brands, rather than lower-priced ones which call themselves luxury. Still, echoing Richemont's forecast, Fornas told Reuters, that currently “we don't see where the end of the tunnel is and we see no cause for optimism."
What to add in the end, except so very true!
As announced last year this January appeared first-ever SIHH winter edition which saw some new features in a pretty challenging current global recession environment.
SIHH 2009 displayed the work of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which promotes luxury watchmaking worldwide and is the SIHH’s organizer. The 2009 SIHH featured 17 of the globe’s most prestigious brands (12 owned by the Geneva-based Richemont Group). They are A. Lange & Söhne, Alfred Dunhill, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Girard-Perregaux, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jean Richard, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Ralph Lauren, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Some of the novelties and changes of the years prior:
- The Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry Co, a recent joint venture between the Richemont Group and the Polo Ralph Lauren fashion brand, has joined the SIHH exhibitors and unveiled its first-ever collection of timepieces. This is Richemont’s first joint venture with a luxury fashion designer and Polo Ralph Lauren’s first foray into luxury watches (more details on that later).
- Roger Dubuis will be there in a new light since the purchase by Richemont last year. The purchased manufacture movement kit facility which Richemont will continue to supply to Manufacture Roger Dubuis SA (founded and is managed by Mr Carlos Dias), under the terms of a long-term agreement. They will continue to operate as an independent manufacturer and distributor under the “Roger Dubuis” brand. It will supply the components for high end watch movements, not only for Roger Dubuis but also for Richemont’s own Maisons.
- The FH is showing the newest version of its world-traveling exhibition, “Think Time, Think Swiss Excellence,” not seen previously in Switzerland.
My visit was as well shortened to the years prior thus I didn't take as much as time to go through all the brands 2009 novelties as many of them IMO weren't truly anything groundbreaking nor was there prior years excitement due to the current economic environment affecting us all.
Unfortunately for most of us watch aficionados the main topic on most industry people minds was not the rather weak watch novelties, but instead the economic climate we are all facing in the upcoming months.
The Richemont Group, whose several prestigious international jewelry and watch brands issued a grim report this month. Important third-quarter sales dropped 12 percent overall, and 28 percent in the Americas alone, due to the global financial crisis and a decline in consumer confidence which had “a significant impact” on regional sales, it said. As a result of that the giant Cartier has put almost all 200 full-time workers making watch cases at one of its Swiss watch factories on part-time. From what I hear they are not alone either considering similar actions or already implementing planned cost cutting.
“Demand for luxury goods … has fallen dramatically,” the statement said, “and Richmond is facing the toughest market conditions since its formation 20 years ago.” With the current economic climate and uncertainties, it expects “no significant recovery in the foreseeable future” and will “take the necessary steps to not only see the difficult times through but to emerge stronger.”
From the last data I gathered there were over 600 watch related companies operating in Switzerland last year. Surely this was not all due to overwhelming insatiable demand and expansion of the watch industry seen during the last years of the horology renaissance. There were surely players in the industry that flourished yet there were some that just jumped on the gravy train and anyone (and their mother it seems) was able to get/make/buy a brand name and all of a sudden become a legitimate Swiss watchmaking company. Let's face the facts - there is no way all of them should have existed in the first place nor they will survive the current harsh environment present. This is a good thing as in my humble opinion there is about 30-40% much needed correction of these numbers. This all points that 2009 will be a undoubtedly a year of consolidation, after the unprecedented interest in technical, unique and exquisite watches of recent years had taken the industry to a level which was not reasonably expected to continue further in such manner.
So what can we expect from the year 2009 shakeout?
Only the strong and truly the value brands which were the leaders before and will continue providing not just a pretty shiny package, but a true horology advancement, innovation and value. Those leaders, as you might have suspected, are the bigger conglomerates and companies which sheer scale & magnitude of their resources puts them in the best position to adjust in order overcome this economic downturn.
Although being big company does not guarantee the survival if there is not capable or nimble upper management ready to to adjust their product to this changing market. There will undoubtedly be plenty of consolidation. Smaller fish will be eaten by the bigger and bolder competitors while other brands presenting little of actual horological or marketing value will be left alone to deservedly DIE! This weeding of the weak in the end is a good thing as it will leave us with more healthy and naturally stronger horological field benefiting us all in the end.
We have seen some minor effects already:
- Zenith announced some firings in its watchmaking workforce.
- Villemont seems to be the very first bankruptcy casualty.
- Bedat & Co. is being reported as currently being shut down.
Speaking at SIHH, Bernard Fornas (Cartier International President & CEO), told Reuters that “real, true luxury is back,” because the financial crisis is changing consumers attitudes and buying. “When people are buying something they are very tough with their choice of brands,” he said, and are now more likely to favor “strong” luxury brands, rather than lower-priced ones which call themselves luxury. Still, echoing Richemont's forecast, Fornas told Reuters, that currently “we don't see where the end of the tunnel is and we see no cause for optimism."
What to add in the end, except so very true!
Thursday, October 30, 2008
TAG Heuer joins the FHH club
La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland — TAG Heuer has become a member of the exclusive Swiss watchmaking club, the Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), joining the ranks of the Richmond heavyweights such as Cartier, Jaeger Le-Coultre and Audemars Piguet.
For TAG Heuer, the membership became official Oct. 1, capping off "a 150-year history dedicated to the pursuit of ultimate precision and inspired by a constant quest for innovation," the brand said in a press release issued earlier this week.
As part of its association, TAG Heuer will showcase the "Grand Carrera Calibre 8 RS Grande Date GMT," part of the Grand Carrera series of 2007, at two of this season's most important watch fairs: the Munich Time show, set for Oct. 30 through Nov. 2, 2008, in Munich, Germany, and the Salon Belles Montres in Paris, set to take place Nov. 28-30.
Established in Geneva in 2005 to celebrate the heritage and values of fine watchmaking, the FHH promotes Swiss watchmaking culture and tradition by communicating the professional and ethical values of authenticity, creativity and innovation on which the industry's legitimacy is founded.
"The FHH has gained the respect and admiration of the fine watchmaking industry as a whole," Jean-Christophe Babin, president and chief executive officer of TAG Heuer said in a press release issued Monday. "We are extremely proud to become an active member and thus demonstrate our commitment to the founding values of haute horlogerie."
More details can be found on the official FHH Web site.
I welcome their addition so hopefully at a future event we'll finally get to see the much talked about yet maligned in both delivery & execution - the Monaco V4 concept.
Tuesday, April 22, 2008
2008 BaselWorld and SIHH: Horology Market Impressions
2008 BaselWorld and SIHH Impressions
These are in short some of the most prevalent impressions of market trends that I noticed & few of my humble opinions that I would dare to contemplate at this time:
- new various complications by majority of industry in my humble observation for the sake of public shock and awe or as some would say bragging rights rather then for the true sake of practical (if not just useful) horology innovations (excluding a few honorable mentions)
- again like last year prevalent usage of unusual materials (alusic, zenithium, hublonium, tantalum, magnesium, ceramic and lithium) prevalent on the case aesthetic side and to some extent in the movement side of watch making. Definite trend in the across board contribution of all non traditional watch materials, but with notable addition of practical usage of the movement side of things (silicum balance spring, easium carbonitride, ceramic ball-bearings, etc)
- steel and gold seems are no longer the prevailing big guns of the watchmaking arsenal. Brands are continuing to venture down this less-trodden path (from last years bronze of Genta, forged carbon of AP, fusion of materials of Hublot, rusted Titanic steel of Romain Jerome, etc) to new dimensions of materials that were borrowed from many different sectors and in some instances R&D’ed on their own. More on this at a later time.
- reissue of older venerable names of the past as new years models. Some executed perfectly (like the Tribute to Polaris by MJLC) and some following the lead and utilizing it as a new strategy to a lesser extent (IMO Longines and to some extent IWC).
- demand for larger cases is still prevalent even though there is a some easing of that pressure across the board by the resurgence of movement towards less “flashy” if not more restrained case sizes.
- importance of focus on the new “emerging economies” markets (China, Russia, India and Middle East) over the “traditional” markets of Europe and US especially in regards to the top level market segment pieces.
- continuing development into the “bling” segment of horology development due to insatiable appetites of the “nouveaux riches” customers whose rise from common poverty left an ongoing rising demand to show off their newfound riches.
- continuing increase in the average cost of the watches across the segment thus making the accessibility of this hobby of ours further out of reach for many especially when considering the higher brackets of Haute Horology.
More in depth analysis of market, respective brands, selective models and imperative points we are faced to follow.
These are in short some of the most prevalent impressions of market trends that I noticed & few of my humble opinions that I would dare to contemplate at this time:
- new various complications by majority of industry in my humble observation for the sake of public shock and awe or as some would say bragging rights rather then for the true sake of practical (if not just useful) horology innovations (excluding a few honorable mentions)
- again like last year prevalent usage of unusual materials (alusic, zenithium, hublonium, tantalum, magnesium, ceramic and lithium) prevalent on the case aesthetic side and to some extent in the movement side of watch making. Definite trend in the across board contribution of all non traditional watch materials, but with notable addition of practical usage of the movement side of things (silicum balance spring, easium carbonitride, ceramic ball-bearings, etc)
- steel and gold seems are no longer the prevailing big guns of the watchmaking arsenal. Brands are continuing to venture down this less-trodden path (from last years bronze of Genta, forged carbon of AP, fusion of materials of Hublot, rusted Titanic steel of Romain Jerome, etc) to new dimensions of materials that were borrowed from many different sectors and in some instances R&D’ed on their own. More on this at a later time.
- reissue of older venerable names of the past as new years models. Some executed perfectly (like the Tribute to Polaris by MJLC) and some following the lead and utilizing it as a new strategy to a lesser extent (IMO Longines and to some extent IWC).
- demand for larger cases is still prevalent even though there is a some easing of that pressure across the board by the resurgence of movement towards less “flashy” if not more restrained case sizes.
- importance of focus on the new “emerging economies” markets (China, Russia, India and Middle East) over the “traditional” markets of Europe and US especially in regards to the top level market segment pieces.
- continuing development into the “bling” segment of horology development due to insatiable appetites of the “nouveaux riches” customers whose rise from common poverty left an ongoing rising demand to show off their newfound riches.
- continuing increase in the average cost of the watches across the segment thus making the accessibility of this hobby of ours further out of reach for many especially when considering the higher brackets of Haute Horology.
More in depth analysis of market, respective brands, selective models and imperative points we are faced to follow.
Monday, April 21, 2008
SIHH 2008
Just came back from this years SIHH and boy was this an enlightening fair. I have to admit that the first impressions (as always) are everlasting, but in the end they are enduring only after some time has passed thus making the real sense of it all. I have plenty of literature to go through and to add to the blog for your viewing pleasure as well to include some more press releases, personal impressions about the fairs, brands, models and horology industry as whole. Unfortunately there will not be as many live watch photos from the fair as last year as my main (brand new I might add) 8GB memory card got corrupted and with it majority of images from the personal viewings of watches presented at the SIHH. I will try to catch up ASAP to answer all the backlog of emails and comments. Please stay tuned as soon we will be back to our more regular programming interval ;-)
Wednesday, April 9, 2008
Horology Market Predictions: Right or Wrong?
Interesting facet is that the last year conclusions (in my 2007 SIHH report ) of the current market trends displayed were quite accurate by simply looking over this year developments (as well announced novelties for this 2008 SIHH and BaselWorld).
What I wrote last time was :
"The prevalent market trends are:
- cases are growing and becoming larger due to overwhelming demand by the customers no matter what many do think
- with larger case sizes (and sometimes even without) the prices are exponentially increasing. If one would really use this parallel comparison seriously it would almost make you wonder how much each mm in size costs ;-)
- precious materials and in house movements are the norm to exclusivity (and again increasing in pricing)
- daring design experimentation as well usage of new materials (especially in the movement side of things) are the next frontier & reality for the daring few
- everyone taunts innovation & proficiency of their watchmaking yet only few actually deliver
MJLC is (in my humble opinion) the KING!"
Correct Points:
Pretty much I was spot on the ever growing case sizes and commensurately increasing prices (not surprised that even diehard Rolex is jumping to the new tune). They have been prevalent and present thought the whole gamme of horology although with a few notable deviants from that general strategy. More precious (including many rare hard to work with as well pronounce) materials have made their inroads into line ups of most brands. Basically “everyone” announced their “new in house” movements or at least that they’re working on one, thus brining another notch to their “exclusivity” (and escalating pricing). New experimentation with daring designs was a definite positive result of the daring few and even less of those who actually furthered the developments on the movement side of things. Lot’s of different news and announcements promising various effects, however in reality few actual deliveries (especially those that work in real life).
Lastly from everything that I saw from pre announcements again the biggest inroads for me were done by that true Manufacture house of Jaeger LeCoultre with the stunning new Gryotourbillon 2, AMVOX3 and lastly (but not the least) the fantastic reintroduction of legendary Polaris. I have to admit that Vacheron Constantine has me very intrigued with its Quai de I’lle line announcement. More about all the specific favored models at a latter time.
Missed point(s):
The thing is that I probably missed the most important market trend which now I year later seems very obvious which is limited/special editions phenomena that has overtaken almost every haute horology house. I mean just look at the Hublot which has practically used it to a T as its marketing strategy. Panerai, as usual has employed it as well, in addition to further legitimizing its even higher bracket pricing with its newly acquired ”in house” movements. AP is following the path of least resistance - need I really say anything more then yet another color of ROO or Scuba edition. Patek has not abated from this strategy except pushing it more towards the emerging Far East markets. Funny that even conservative stalwart like Rolex is changing its tune as well and introducing some more “Special” and “Anniversary” editions as well. Now Lange is in the game as well and I am sure many else are following the suit.
Hey don’t get me wrong I like to have Limited and Special editions models – not that I have something personal against them. They surely add a dash of exclusivity and some kind of importance when one is able to track them down and purchase the piece. The only thing is when a company does a special or limited edition that is in essence really not that special or that limited per se, what are they really creating? An easy exploitable marketing tool for creating sales without really doing that much additional work? Additional market demand with the today’s not so discerning buyer for that perceived and oh so elusive aura of exclusivity that one gets with those “special” pieces? Lack of ideas or really an easy way out for creating more sales and revenue in this current sizzling horology market? Is there a real one singular correct answer which satisfies all these queries? Whatever the real reasoning behind this all (and I mean from both sides of the looking glass) is that it is working, well at least for now. Since it does it will be exploited to the max until not one person, but the majority of us act collectively with our wallets. Please don’t take me for a pessimist, but rather the constructive critic which only says what is on minds of many which have been in this game of horology for a while now. Many companies have no other choice but to follow the 8 ball and take what is given to them. Many have been transformed from smaller workshop places of horology to parts of the conglomerates and have requirements towards their shareholders. Many have traded their glorious names of the past (together with their contributions to innovation in horology) for the profits of today to what consequence in the long run only the future holds. Despite it all my opinion is that I think we are going in the right direction. Eventually every renaissance (including this horology one) must bloom, grow, and expand to the point of no room to mature anymore and to die out again. No, not to die forever! Instead to refocus and restart again in the new direction (and presumably better one) in the process loosing many of the old bad habits that contributed to its collapse and following the path of positive influence. That I see as I real success coming out of this all. Let’s just hope that our favorites will emerge as survivors stronger then ever and following the other righteous path so beautifully exhibited in many of the great accomplishments seen so many times over the good last part of this decade.
What I wrote last time was :
"The prevalent market trends are:
- cases are growing and becoming larger due to overwhelming demand by the customers no matter what many do think
- with larger case sizes (and sometimes even without) the prices are exponentially increasing. If one would really use this parallel comparison seriously it would almost make you wonder how much each mm in size costs ;-)
- precious materials and in house movements are the norm to exclusivity (and again increasing in pricing)
- daring design experimentation as well usage of new materials (especially in the movement side of things) are the next frontier & reality for the daring few
- everyone taunts innovation & proficiency of their watchmaking yet only few actually deliver
MJLC is (in my humble opinion) the KING!"
Correct Points:
Pretty much I was spot on the ever growing case sizes and commensurately increasing prices (not surprised that even diehard Rolex is jumping to the new tune). They have been prevalent and present thought the whole gamme of horology although with a few notable deviants from that general strategy. More precious (including many rare hard to work with as well pronounce) materials have made their inroads into line ups of most brands. Basically “everyone” announced their “new in house” movements or at least that they’re working on one, thus brining another notch to their “exclusivity” (and escalating pricing). New experimentation with daring designs was a definite positive result of the daring few and even less of those who actually furthered the developments on the movement side of things. Lot’s of different news and announcements promising various effects, however in reality few actual deliveries (especially those that work in real life).
Lastly from everything that I saw from pre announcements again the biggest inroads for me were done by that true Manufacture house of Jaeger LeCoultre with the stunning new Gryotourbillon 2, AMVOX3 and lastly (but not the least) the fantastic reintroduction of legendary Polaris. I have to admit that Vacheron Constantine has me very intrigued with its Quai de I’lle line announcement. More about all the specific favored models at a latter time.
Missed point(s):
The thing is that I probably missed the most important market trend which now I year later seems very obvious which is limited/special editions phenomena that has overtaken almost every haute horology house. I mean just look at the Hublot which has practically used it to a T as its marketing strategy. Panerai, as usual has employed it as well, in addition to further legitimizing its even higher bracket pricing with its newly acquired ”in house” movements. AP is following the path of least resistance - need I really say anything more then yet another color of ROO or Scuba edition. Patek has not abated from this strategy except pushing it more towards the emerging Far East markets. Funny that even conservative stalwart like Rolex is changing its tune as well and introducing some more “Special” and “Anniversary” editions as well. Now Lange is in the game as well and I am sure many else are following the suit.
Hey don’t get me wrong I like to have Limited and Special editions models – not that I have something personal against them. They surely add a dash of exclusivity and some kind of importance when one is able to track them down and purchase the piece. The only thing is when a company does a special or limited edition that is in essence really not that special or that limited per se, what are they really creating? An easy exploitable marketing tool for creating sales without really doing that much additional work? Additional market demand with the today’s not so discerning buyer for that perceived and oh so elusive aura of exclusivity that one gets with those “special” pieces? Lack of ideas or really an easy way out for creating more sales and revenue in this current sizzling horology market? Is there a real one singular correct answer which satisfies all these queries? Whatever the real reasoning behind this all (and I mean from both sides of the looking glass) is that it is working, well at least for now. Since it does it will be exploited to the max until not one person, but the majority of us act collectively with our wallets. Please don’t take me for a pessimist, but rather the constructive critic which only says what is on minds of many which have been in this game of horology for a while now. Many companies have no other choice but to follow the 8 ball and take what is given to them. Many have been transformed from smaller workshop places of horology to parts of the conglomerates and have requirements towards their shareholders. Many have traded their glorious names of the past (together with their contributions to innovation in horology) for the profits of today to what consequence in the long run only the future holds. Despite it all my opinion is that I think we are going in the right direction. Eventually every renaissance (including this horology one) must bloom, grow, and expand to the point of no room to mature anymore and to die out again. No, not to die forever! Instead to refocus and restart again in the new direction (and presumably better one) in the process loosing many of the old bad habits that contributed to its collapse and following the path of positive influence. That I see as I real success coming out of this all. Let’s just hope that our favorites will emerge as survivors stronger then ever and following the other righteous path so beautifully exhibited in many of the great accomplishments seen so many times over the good last part of this decade.
SIHH 2008 Preview: Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph Calibres
Montblanc unveiled its first watch movement manufactured entirely in-house at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva.
On Monday, 7 April 2008 Montblanc's announced the presentation of its very first chronograph featuring a movement developed and manufactured entirely in the company's own workshops - The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph.
This watch is the first one ever to feature a movement that has been developed, produced and assembled in Montblanc's own workshops. The two chronograph movements (the MB R100 handwound calibre and the MB R200 automatic) are yet another highlight in a success story going back more than ten years for Montblanc watches: 'We're very proud of the fact that this first movement of our own further justifies our claim to be a provider of traditional European craftsmanship in the mechanical watch sector. And it means we've set up a further milestone in the success story of Montblanc watch manufacture,' explains Lutz Bethge, CEO Montblanc International. It also means that the Montblanc brand not only joins an exclusive circle of classical watch manufacturers by demonstrating its expertise and professionalism in this market segment, but also underpins something the brand embodies in all its product lines: the practice and cultivation of European craftsmanship and an authentic tradition of manufacturing by hand.
Rieussec: a name that writes the history of time
The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher is dedicated to Nicolas Rieussec, who invented the chronograph in 1821: his was a wooden case containing a clock movement that drove two rotating dials on the lid. Above them was a fixed index that left a drop of ink on the rotating dials whenever a button was pushed. For the first time ever, the device made it possible to record the exact times put up by individual horses at racing events. The principle used gave the chronograph its name and comes from the Greek: chronos for time and graphein for write. It seems only logical that the first watch movement to be developed by Montblanc, which has established itself as the world's leading manufacturer of top-quality writing instruments, should be one that 'writes time'. The principle of the rotating dials was the inspiration for the design of the new Montblanc chronograph and gives the watch its unmistakable appearance.
A stopwatch that fuses tradition and innovation
The Montblanc MB R100 calibre is a hand-wound movement with displays for the time of day, the date and a chronograph that combines classical column wheel operation with a modern vertical plate clutch. The chronograph is operated using a pushbutton in the side of the case at 8 o'clock. The time of day is displayed in an off-centre dial that features a 1 to 31 scale for the date indicator within the hour circle. The movement has two barrels, which generate a 72-hour power reserve. The remaining power reserve is shown on a display at the back of the movement, which can be seen through the sapphire glass cover. Alternatively, Montblanc also offers its own automatic movement, the Montblanc MB R200 calibre.
Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph: a watch for connoisseurs in a limited edition
The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph is a piece for connoisseurs that will be available only in limited numbers: 25 watches in platinum 950, 75 in 18 K white gold and 75 in 18 K yellow gold, together with 125 watches in 18 K red gold. In keeping with traditional watchmaking methods the precious metal cases, measuring 43 millimetres in diameter, are cold-moulded and painstakingly finished by hand. A convex sapphire glass with an antireflective coating on both sides covers the dial while a sapphire glass back cover provides a view of the ornately decorated movement and its visible chronograph mechanism and power reserve display. With its unique combination of features, complex precision mechanics and limited availability, the Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph has all the makings of a much sought-after collector's item.
Specifications:
The case measures 43mm X 14.8mm with 22mm lugs. The crystal is sapphire with AR-coating, as is the display back. It is water resistant to 30 meters. It is available in a rose gold version of 125 pieces, with a platinum version of 25 pieces and a white gold version of 75 pieces.
The movement, the in-house Montblanc Caliber MB R100 is hand-wound, with twin barrels and stop balance wheel. It has 286 parts, with 33 jewels, beating at 28,800 bph and with a power reserve of 72 hours. The plates are Rhodium-plated and circular-grained; Bridge are Rhodium-plated with Geneva stripes. The chronograph features a new type of display on 60-second and 30-minute counters using rotating discs and fixed hands, with a power reserve display on the case back. Monopusher operation at 8 o'clock features column wheel control and a vertical disc clutch.
Info via Montblanc press file
On Monday, 7 April 2008 Montblanc's announced the presentation of its very first chronograph featuring a movement developed and manufactured entirely in the company's own workshops - The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph.
This watch is the first one ever to feature a movement that has been developed, produced and assembled in Montblanc's own workshops. The two chronograph movements (the MB R100 handwound calibre and the MB R200 automatic) are yet another highlight in a success story going back more than ten years for Montblanc watches: 'We're very proud of the fact that this first movement of our own further justifies our claim to be a provider of traditional European craftsmanship in the mechanical watch sector. And it means we've set up a further milestone in the success story of Montblanc watch manufacture,' explains Lutz Bethge, CEO Montblanc International. It also means that the Montblanc brand not only joins an exclusive circle of classical watch manufacturers by demonstrating its expertise and professionalism in this market segment, but also underpins something the brand embodies in all its product lines: the practice and cultivation of European craftsmanship and an authentic tradition of manufacturing by hand.
Rieussec: a name that writes the history of time
The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher is dedicated to Nicolas Rieussec, who invented the chronograph in 1821: his was a wooden case containing a clock movement that drove two rotating dials on the lid. Above them was a fixed index that left a drop of ink on the rotating dials whenever a button was pushed. For the first time ever, the device made it possible to record the exact times put up by individual horses at racing events. The principle used gave the chronograph its name and comes from the Greek: chronos for time and graphein for write. It seems only logical that the first watch movement to be developed by Montblanc, which has established itself as the world's leading manufacturer of top-quality writing instruments, should be one that 'writes time'. The principle of the rotating dials was the inspiration for the design of the new Montblanc chronograph and gives the watch its unmistakable appearance.
A stopwatch that fuses tradition and innovation
The Montblanc MB R100 calibre is a hand-wound movement with displays for the time of day, the date and a chronograph that combines classical column wheel operation with a modern vertical plate clutch. The chronograph is operated using a pushbutton in the side of the case at 8 o'clock. The time of day is displayed in an off-centre dial that features a 1 to 31 scale for the date indicator within the hour circle. The movement has two barrels, which generate a 72-hour power reserve. The remaining power reserve is shown on a display at the back of the movement, which can be seen through the sapphire glass cover. Alternatively, Montblanc also offers its own automatic movement, the Montblanc MB R200 calibre.
Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph: a watch for connoisseurs in a limited edition
The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph is a piece for connoisseurs that will be available only in limited numbers: 25 watches in platinum 950, 75 in 18 K white gold and 75 in 18 K yellow gold, together with 125 watches in 18 K red gold. In keeping with traditional watchmaking methods the precious metal cases, measuring 43 millimetres in diameter, are cold-moulded and painstakingly finished by hand. A convex sapphire glass with an antireflective coating on both sides covers the dial while a sapphire glass back cover provides a view of the ornately decorated movement and its visible chronograph mechanism and power reserve display. With its unique combination of features, complex precision mechanics and limited availability, the Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph has all the makings of a much sought-after collector's item.
Specifications:
The case measures 43mm X 14.8mm with 22mm lugs. The crystal is sapphire with AR-coating, as is the display back. It is water resistant to 30 meters. It is available in a rose gold version of 125 pieces, with a platinum version of 25 pieces and a white gold version of 75 pieces.
The movement, the in-house Montblanc Caliber MB R100 is hand-wound, with twin barrels and stop balance wheel. It has 286 parts, with 33 jewels, beating at 28,800 bph and with a power reserve of 72 hours. The plates are Rhodium-plated and circular-grained; Bridge are Rhodium-plated with Geneva stripes. The chronograph features a new type of display on 60-second and 30-minute counters using rotating discs and fixed hands, with a power reserve display on the case back. Monopusher operation at 8 o'clock features column wheel control and a vertical disc clutch.
Info via Montblanc press file
SIHH 2008 Preview: Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar
Girard-Perregaux revisits the perpetual calendar, incorporating this sophisticated mechanism in the elegant case of a Vintage 1945 Square. Automatically indicating the date, day and month, this timepiece is also the first to be equipped with the all-new Microvar free sprung balance.
With the Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar, the Manufacture has created one of the finest jewels of a collection which has been constantly updated with refinement. Inspired by a rectangular wristwatch created in 1945, Girard-Perregaux has developed this Art Deco derived line, retaining the clean spaces and straight angles, but adopting a square case. The curve of the domed dial and the recessed applique counters play on the depth and spaces.
The attention paid to the details is revealed in all the parts, down to the rounded indices. This timepiece displays the date, day, month and moon phase, automatically taking into account the length of the months and leap years. Its 1461 day (i.e. 4-year) "mechanical memory" takes into consideration the variations in the Gregorian calendar.
This concentrated piece of watchmaking technology requires the combination of hundreds of components, forming a complex architecture. The movement crafted in-house by Girard-Perregaux is visible via the transparent case-back.
The Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar also incorporates an innovation derived from Girard-Perregaux's research in the field of chronometry: the Microvar free sprung balance. This exclusive development by the Manufacture combines a six-screw system and two regulating weights positioned on the rim of the balance, which are used to respectively set the balance of the rim and the rate of the watch. This construction enhances the excellence of the timepiece, fully expressing Girard-Perregaux's know-how.
Specifications:
Pink gold case
Dimensions: 34.20 x 32 mm
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back secured by 4 screws
Water resistance: 30 meters
Girard-Perregaux movement Ref. GP0033Q0
mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 ½ ’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions: hour, minute, perpetual calendar, moon phases indicatorAlligator strap with folding buckle
Also available with a white gold case and/or a black dial.
Info via Girard Perregaux press file.
With the Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar, the Manufacture has created one of the finest jewels of a collection which has been constantly updated with refinement. Inspired by a rectangular wristwatch created in 1945, Girard-Perregaux has developed this Art Deco derived line, retaining the clean spaces and straight angles, but adopting a square case. The curve of the domed dial and the recessed applique counters play on the depth and spaces.
The attention paid to the details is revealed in all the parts, down to the rounded indices. This timepiece displays the date, day, month and moon phase, automatically taking into account the length of the months and leap years. Its 1461 day (i.e. 4-year) "mechanical memory" takes into consideration the variations in the Gregorian calendar.
This concentrated piece of watchmaking technology requires the combination of hundreds of components, forming a complex architecture. The movement crafted in-house by Girard-Perregaux is visible via the transparent case-back.
The Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar also incorporates an innovation derived from Girard-Perregaux's research in the field of chronometry: the Microvar free sprung balance. This exclusive development by the Manufacture combines a six-screw system and two regulating weights positioned on the rim of the balance, which are used to respectively set the balance of the rim and the rate of the watch. This construction enhances the excellence of the timepiece, fully expressing Girard-Perregaux's know-how.
Specifications:
Pink gold case
Dimensions: 34.20 x 32 mm
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back secured by 4 screws
Water resistance: 30 meters
Girard-Perregaux movement Ref. GP0033Q0
mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 ½ ’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions: hour, minute, perpetual calendar, moon phases indicatorAlligator strap with folding buckle
Also available with a white gold case and/or a black dial.
Info via Girard Perregaux press file.
SIHH 2008 Preview: Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante
Girard-Perregaux presents a world premiere: the first Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante. A remarkable tribute to the Manufacture's heritage, this timepiece reveals an unprecedented combination of some of the most sophisticated complications.
In around 1880, Constant Girard would develop one of the most effective and most accurate time measurement instruments of its era: a Rattrapante Chronograph with Foudroyante second, housed in a pocket watch. Nine years later, he would pull off another feat: his Tourbillon with three gold Bridges, a prize-winner at the Paris Universal Exhibition. In 2008, Girard-Perregaux is once more making use of these complex mechanisms, taking on a new challenge: combining all these complications in a perfectly proportioned wristwatch.
Only thirty-three connoisseurs will be able to own this uncommon watchmaking combination. Mass production has no place in this exceptional field: some five hundred and seven components are assembled by hand to make up the complete movement housed in the pink gold case, following the stringent rules of a watchmaking art that prizes special achievements.
In presenting this timepiece, Girard-Perregaux is remaining true to its tradition, and is continuing the development of its models with rattrapante and foudroyante second, which are among its most spectacular Haute Horlogerie creations. The rattrapante chronograph can register split times, during sports events for example. In this case it is supplemented by a foudroyante second, which runs in a counter at 9 o'clock: the hand makes a complete turn of its dial in one second, while imperceptibly marking a stop time every sixth of a second.
Lit up by the graceful Tourbillon with gold Bridge, the design of this timepiece is the be-all in elegance. Its host of complications blends into a harmonious dial which takes the expertise of the master-watchmaker, who knows that perfection is concealed in the most delicate details. The fine chronograph and rattrapante hands are superimposed when stopped. The rattrapante function is made especially discreet by the model only having two push-pieces: the one at 2 o'clock controls the rattrapante hand, while the one at 4 o'clock starts, stops and resets the chronograph. To complement the creation, the case lugs ensure a perfect fit on the wrist.
There are other sophistications specific to this movement. Girard-Perregaux improves the chronometric developments by equipping the rattrapante with an isolating device that ensures a constant balance amplitude. The foudroyante second mechanism is also ingeniously designed, to enable it to be combined with a Tourbillon.
Specifications:
Pink gold case
- Diameter: 44 mm
- Height: 17.10 mm
- Sapphire crystal
- See-through case-back secured by 6 screws
- Water resistance: 30 metres
Girard-Perregaux movement GP9973 mechanical with manual winding
- Tourbillon with gold Bridge, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- Calibre: 14 ½ ’’’Height: 9.30 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
- Jewels: 43Power reserve: minimum 96 hours (4 days)
- Tourbillon cage: 69 components, 0.4 grams
- Functions: hour, minute, small second on the Tourbillon, date, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- 507 parts
- Alligator strap with folding buckle
Limited and numbered edition of 33 pieces.
Info via Girard Perregaux press file.
In around 1880, Constant Girard would develop one of the most effective and most accurate time measurement instruments of its era: a Rattrapante Chronograph with Foudroyante second, housed in a pocket watch. Nine years later, he would pull off another feat: his Tourbillon with three gold Bridges, a prize-winner at the Paris Universal Exhibition. In 2008, Girard-Perregaux is once more making use of these complex mechanisms, taking on a new challenge: combining all these complications in a perfectly proportioned wristwatch.
Only thirty-three connoisseurs will be able to own this uncommon watchmaking combination. Mass production has no place in this exceptional field: some five hundred and seven components are assembled by hand to make up the complete movement housed in the pink gold case, following the stringent rules of a watchmaking art that prizes special achievements.
In presenting this timepiece, Girard-Perregaux is remaining true to its tradition, and is continuing the development of its models with rattrapante and foudroyante second, which are among its most spectacular Haute Horlogerie creations. The rattrapante chronograph can register split times, during sports events for example. In this case it is supplemented by a foudroyante second, which runs in a counter at 9 o'clock: the hand makes a complete turn of its dial in one second, while imperceptibly marking a stop time every sixth of a second.
Lit up by the graceful Tourbillon with gold Bridge, the design of this timepiece is the be-all in elegance. Its host of complications blends into a harmonious dial which takes the expertise of the master-watchmaker, who knows that perfection is concealed in the most delicate details. The fine chronograph and rattrapante hands are superimposed when stopped. The rattrapante function is made especially discreet by the model only having two push-pieces: the one at 2 o'clock controls the rattrapante hand, while the one at 4 o'clock starts, stops and resets the chronograph. To complement the creation, the case lugs ensure a perfect fit on the wrist.
There are other sophistications specific to this movement. Girard-Perregaux improves the chronometric developments by equipping the rattrapante with an isolating device that ensures a constant balance amplitude. The foudroyante second mechanism is also ingeniously designed, to enable it to be combined with a Tourbillon.
Specifications:
Pink gold case
- Diameter: 44 mm
- Height: 17.10 mm
- Sapphire crystal
- See-through case-back secured by 6 screws
- Water resistance: 30 metres
Girard-Perregaux movement GP9973 mechanical with manual winding
- Tourbillon with gold Bridge, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- Calibre: 14 ½ ’’’Height: 9.30 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
- Jewels: 43Power reserve: minimum 96 hours (4 days)
- Tourbillon cage: 69 components, 0.4 grams
- Functions: hour, minute, small second on the Tourbillon, date, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- 507 parts
- Alligator strap with folding buckle
Limited and numbered edition of 33 pieces.
Info via Girard Perregaux press file.
Monday, April 7, 2008
SIHH 2008 Preview: Vacheron Constantin Overseas
Across Land and Sea, Vacheron Celebrates Travel with Two New Overseas Models
Two years after celebrating the Overseas’ tenth anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has added two new models to this line, which is dedicated to the spirit of travel: the watch Overseas Dual Time, combining useful functions with a diamond setting, and a new pink gold version of the now-famous Overseas Chronograph.
The well-named Overseas is the line for frequent travelers, a line that crosses land and sea, that transcends time-zones. Since their launch in 1996, Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas watches have been faithful companions to international travelers who appreciate technical and aesthetic excellence.
They are also ideal for anyone looking for a time-measuring instrument that reflects their character: dynamic and sporty, elegant and distinguished. Vacheron Constantin’s two exceptional new models - the Overseas Dual Time and the pink gold Overseas Chronograph – are both invitations to travel.
History
Travel and the desire to explore the world has always been part of the Vacheron Constantin spirit. Jacques Vacheron started the trend in 1810, traveling throughout Europe and selling his watches to the rich and powerful. As the manufacture expanded, his journeys became longer and more frequent. François Constantin, who took over in 1819, traveled even further afield, presenting the brand’s masterpieces around the world. About 1930, the brand noticed that a good number of its customers were regularly crossing the seas and oceans on business or for pleasure. Its response was a stainless steel watch for active, enterprising travellers, brought out in 1932.
Since 1973, Vacheron Constantin has established itself as a pioneer of the ultra-functional stainless steel timepieces that the period craved, to such a degree that the Overseas is now one of the most successful watches in its category. It was hardly a surprise when the brand marked its 222nd anniversary in 1977 with the launching of a rather unusual steel watch. Bearing the code name 222, its one-piece case featured a screw-down “porthole” bezel, creating a robust entity designed for intensive use in a hostile environment. Equipped with an integrated bracelet, the watch 222 had highly legible luminous hands and hour-markers and was offered in gold, steel or a combination of both. Thanks to a crown protected by two water-resistant gaskets, the watch 222 was water-resistant to 120 meters. And what was rare for the period, the case was fitted with an anti-magnetic shield.
Contemporary in spirit and absolutely functional, the watch 222 was the first quality watch to be designed for travel and adventure, and can be legitimately viewed as the precursor of the Overseas line.
Functionality and legibility
In 1996, Vacheron Constantin decided to launch a new line of timepieces for travelers: the Overseas. With their clean, naturally elegant lines, these highly technical watches have been one of the most successful in the genre. Dedicated to travel and to today’s explorers, the Overseas models have won many admirers thanks to their classical and dynamic styling, remarkable functionality and excellent legibility.
In 2006, the Overseas’ 10th anniversary was celebrated with the launching of the Dual Time with a second time zone - one of the most useful functions for frequent travelers - as well as a yellow gold chronograph.
2008: two years after the line’s 10th anniversary, the new Overseas Dual Time models are presented in pink or white gold, diamond-set and on white straps.
The model Overseas Dual Time features a date and two other very practical complications: a second time zone and a power reserve. Its 18K 5N pink or white gold case, generous 42-mm diameter and clear-cut, harmonious lines give this timepiece a very strong character.
The white gold bezel, whose design is reminiscent of the manufactures characteristic Maltese cross, creates a soft contrast. Set with precious stones that conform to the most stringent criteria in terms of purity, color and size, it shimmers with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds.
This watch also has a solid caseback stamped with the “Overseas” medallion, a two-masted sailing ship. Thanks to its screw-down crown, this veritable jewel of elegance is water-resistant to a depth of 15 Atm equivalent to approximately 150 meters.
A dial with exceptional finishing and excellent legibility.
A complicated watch in every respect, the Overseas Dual Time is a perfect example of the exceptional technical and aesthetic savoir-faire of the watchmakers and craftsmen at Vacheron Constantin.
The matte white varnished dial, with its luminescent, pink gold leaf-shaped hands, provides perfect legibility for reading the various indications.
The Vacheron Constantin 1222 SC self-winding movement beats at 28,800 vibrations an hour. Besides the central hours, minutes and seconds, the Dual Time features a second time zone on a rhodium-plated opaline sub-dial at 6 o’clock, to which a small day/night hour indicator is attached. This means the wearer will be able to keep track of the time, anywhere in the world.
Harmoniously positioned at 2 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively are a silvered opaline date dial, numbered from 1 to 31, and a rhodium-plated opaline 40-hour power reserve indicator.
Like every Overseas model, the watch Dual Time features an anti-magnetic shield. Researched and developed by Vacheron Constantin, this means that, no matter where the owner is, her timepiece will not be affected by magnetic forces, which influence both the running and accuracy of the watch. A further important addition to this watch’s aesthetic and technical qualities.
New white straps, in alligator leather or rubber
Diamonds sparkle at their brightest when they come together with luminous materials, one of the reasons why Vacheron Constantin decided to deck out the watch Overseas Dual Time with a white vulcarbonised rubber strap.
Delivered with this very trendy strap is the main one, in alligator leather, also in white, and featuring a triple folding clasp in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold.
2008: precious, elegant in any situation, and ideal for long journeys, the emblematic Overseas Chronograph is now presented in pink gold
In response to the success of the first Overseas Chronograph in stainless steel, Vacheron Constantin brought out the same model in yellow gold in 2006 as part of the line’s 10th anniversary celebrations.
To follow up the success of this emblematic model, Vacheron Constantin now presents the self-winding Overseas Chronograph in a new pink gold version.
The sporty, stylish 42-mm case displays all the qualities associated with the collection. With its sleek lines, Maltese-cross-inspired bezel, luminescent hour-markers, screw-down push-pieces, water-resistance to a depth of 15 Atm equivalent to approx.150 meters, and the Overseas’ emblematic two-masted sailing ship motif engraved on the solid caseback, the new pink gold Overseas Chronograph is a worthy descendant of the Vacheron Constantin tradition of distinguished chronographs that look elegant in any situation.
The case has a strong and instantly-recognizable design and its large anthracite dial clearly sets off all the useful functions offered by the Vacheron Constantin 1137 movement, which beats at a rate of 21,600 vibrations/hour.
As well as its classical functions – hours, minutes and seconds - the pink gold Overseas Chronograph features two counters: 30 minutes at 3 o’clock and 12 hours at 9 o’clock. The date is displayed in an oversized window at 12 o’clock.
As the pink gold hands and hour-markers are coated with a white luminescent material, this unpretentious yet sophisticated design provides optimal legibility in any circumstances.
In keeping with all the models in the line, the new pink gold Overseas Chronograph is equipped with an anti-magnetic shield that protects the movement and complex gear-trains from disturbances caused by local magnetic fields. A major advantage that will not go unnoticed by travellers who are constantly on the move.
The new Overseas Chronograph comes with a choice of 3 straps: pink gold, hand-sewn alligator leather, or dark-brown vulcarbonised rubber
Designed along very strict ergonomic lines, the Overseas Chronograph’s pink gold bracelet has an exclusive shape - a succession of half-Maltese-cross links – that gives it a precious and particularly refined look. With its triple folding clasp and double pushpiece locking system, this meticulously polished and satin-finished bracelet is incredibly supple and comfortable.
For sportier travellers, the pink gold Overseas Chronograph is also available on an elegant dark-brown, hand-sewn alligator strap, which is delivered with a second, more casual vulcarbonised rubber strap, also in dark brown.
Specifications:
Reference 47751/000G-9351 and 47751/000R-9351
Movement: 1222 SC, Self-winding mechanical
Anti-magnetic protection
Height of movement 4.90 mm
Diameter of movement 26.60 mm
Jewelling 34 rubies
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour
Indications: Hours, minutes, central seconds
Power reserve
2nd time zone with day / night indicator
Date hand
Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours
Case: 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold
Set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.90 ct)
Water-resistance 15 ATM, equivalent to a depth of 150 meters
Dial: Matte white varnish.
Slate day / night indication
10 applied hour-markers in 18K 5N pink gold with white luminescent strip
Strap: White hand-stitched, square-scaled alligator leather
Delivered with a second strap in white vulcarbonized rubber.
Clasp: 18K white gold or 5N 18K pink gold triple-blade, double-safety folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross
Reference 49150/B01R-9338 and 49150/000R-9338
Movement: 1137, Self-winding mechanic
Anti-magnetic protection
Height of movement 6.60 mm
Diameter of movement 26.20 mm
jeweling 37 rubies
Frequency 21,600 vibrations/hour
Indications: Hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock
Column-wheel chronograph
12-hour and 30-minute counter
Large date at 12 o’clock
Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours
Case: 18K 5N pink gold
Water-resistance 15 ATM, equivalent to a depth of 150 meters
Dial: Anthracite 12 applied 18K 5N pink gold hour-makers in with white luminescent strip
Strap: Polished and satin-finished 18K 5N pink gold or
Hand-stitched, square scaled, dark brown alligator leather
Delivered with a second strap in dark brown vulcarbonized rubber
Clasp: 5N 18K pink gold triple-blade, double-safety folding clasp polished half Maltese cross
Two years after celebrating the Overseas’ tenth anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has added two new models to this line, which is dedicated to the spirit of travel: the watch Overseas Dual Time, combining useful functions with a diamond setting, and a new pink gold version of the now-famous Overseas Chronograph.
The well-named Overseas is the line for frequent travelers, a line that crosses land and sea, that transcends time-zones. Since their launch in 1996, Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas watches have been faithful companions to international travelers who appreciate technical and aesthetic excellence.
They are also ideal for anyone looking for a time-measuring instrument that reflects their character: dynamic and sporty, elegant and distinguished. Vacheron Constantin’s two exceptional new models - the Overseas Dual Time and the pink gold Overseas Chronograph – are both invitations to travel.
History
Travel and the desire to explore the world has always been part of the Vacheron Constantin spirit. Jacques Vacheron started the trend in 1810, traveling throughout Europe and selling his watches to the rich and powerful. As the manufacture expanded, his journeys became longer and more frequent. François Constantin, who took over in 1819, traveled even further afield, presenting the brand’s masterpieces around the world. About 1930, the brand noticed that a good number of its customers were regularly crossing the seas and oceans on business or for pleasure. Its response was a stainless steel watch for active, enterprising travellers, brought out in 1932.
Since 1973, Vacheron Constantin has established itself as a pioneer of the ultra-functional stainless steel timepieces that the period craved, to such a degree that the Overseas is now one of the most successful watches in its category. It was hardly a surprise when the brand marked its 222nd anniversary in 1977 with the launching of a rather unusual steel watch. Bearing the code name 222, its one-piece case featured a screw-down “porthole” bezel, creating a robust entity designed for intensive use in a hostile environment. Equipped with an integrated bracelet, the watch 222 had highly legible luminous hands and hour-markers and was offered in gold, steel or a combination of both. Thanks to a crown protected by two water-resistant gaskets, the watch 222 was water-resistant to 120 meters. And what was rare for the period, the case was fitted with an anti-magnetic shield.
Contemporary in spirit and absolutely functional, the watch 222 was the first quality watch to be designed for travel and adventure, and can be legitimately viewed as the precursor of the Overseas line.
Functionality and legibility
In 1996, Vacheron Constantin decided to launch a new line of timepieces for travelers: the Overseas. With their clean, naturally elegant lines, these highly technical watches have been one of the most successful in the genre. Dedicated to travel and to today’s explorers, the Overseas models have won many admirers thanks to their classical and dynamic styling, remarkable functionality and excellent legibility.
In 2006, the Overseas’ 10th anniversary was celebrated with the launching of the Dual Time with a second time zone - one of the most useful functions for frequent travelers - as well as a yellow gold chronograph.
2008: two years after the line’s 10th anniversary, the new Overseas Dual Time models are presented in pink or white gold, diamond-set and on white straps.
The model Overseas Dual Time features a date and two other very practical complications: a second time zone and a power reserve. Its 18K 5N pink or white gold case, generous 42-mm diameter and clear-cut, harmonious lines give this timepiece a very strong character.
The white gold bezel, whose design is reminiscent of the manufactures characteristic Maltese cross, creates a soft contrast. Set with precious stones that conform to the most stringent criteria in terms of purity, color and size, it shimmers with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds.
This watch also has a solid caseback stamped with the “Overseas” medallion, a two-masted sailing ship. Thanks to its screw-down crown, this veritable jewel of elegance is water-resistant to a depth of 15 Atm equivalent to approximately 150 meters.
A dial with exceptional finishing and excellent legibility.
A complicated watch in every respect, the Overseas Dual Time is a perfect example of the exceptional technical and aesthetic savoir-faire of the watchmakers and craftsmen at Vacheron Constantin.
The matte white varnished dial, with its luminescent, pink gold leaf-shaped hands, provides perfect legibility for reading the various indications.
The Vacheron Constantin 1222 SC self-winding movement beats at 28,800 vibrations an hour. Besides the central hours, minutes and seconds, the Dual Time features a second time zone on a rhodium-plated opaline sub-dial at 6 o’clock, to which a small day/night hour indicator is attached. This means the wearer will be able to keep track of the time, anywhere in the world.
Harmoniously positioned at 2 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively are a silvered opaline date dial, numbered from 1 to 31, and a rhodium-plated opaline 40-hour power reserve indicator.
Like every Overseas model, the watch Dual Time features an anti-magnetic shield. Researched and developed by Vacheron Constantin, this means that, no matter where the owner is, her timepiece will not be affected by magnetic forces, which influence both the running and accuracy of the watch. A further important addition to this watch’s aesthetic and technical qualities.
New white straps, in alligator leather or rubber
Diamonds sparkle at their brightest when they come together with luminous materials, one of the reasons why Vacheron Constantin decided to deck out the watch Overseas Dual Time with a white vulcarbonised rubber strap.
Delivered with this very trendy strap is the main one, in alligator leather, also in white, and featuring a triple folding clasp in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold.
2008: precious, elegant in any situation, and ideal for long journeys, the emblematic Overseas Chronograph is now presented in pink gold
In response to the success of the first Overseas Chronograph in stainless steel, Vacheron Constantin brought out the same model in yellow gold in 2006 as part of the line’s 10th anniversary celebrations.
To follow up the success of this emblematic model, Vacheron Constantin now presents the self-winding Overseas Chronograph in a new pink gold version.
The sporty, stylish 42-mm case displays all the qualities associated with the collection. With its sleek lines, Maltese-cross-inspired bezel, luminescent hour-markers, screw-down push-pieces, water-resistance to a depth of 15 Atm equivalent to approx.150 meters, and the Overseas’ emblematic two-masted sailing ship motif engraved on the solid caseback, the new pink gold Overseas Chronograph is a worthy descendant of the Vacheron Constantin tradition of distinguished chronographs that look elegant in any situation.
The case has a strong and instantly-recognizable design and its large anthracite dial clearly sets off all the useful functions offered by the Vacheron Constantin 1137 movement, which beats at a rate of 21,600 vibrations/hour.
As well as its classical functions – hours, minutes and seconds - the pink gold Overseas Chronograph features two counters: 30 minutes at 3 o’clock and 12 hours at 9 o’clock. The date is displayed in an oversized window at 12 o’clock.
As the pink gold hands and hour-markers are coated with a white luminescent material, this unpretentious yet sophisticated design provides optimal legibility in any circumstances.
In keeping with all the models in the line, the new pink gold Overseas Chronograph is equipped with an anti-magnetic shield that protects the movement and complex gear-trains from disturbances caused by local magnetic fields. A major advantage that will not go unnoticed by travellers who are constantly on the move.
The new Overseas Chronograph comes with a choice of 3 straps: pink gold, hand-sewn alligator leather, or dark-brown vulcarbonised rubber
Designed along very strict ergonomic lines, the Overseas Chronograph’s pink gold bracelet has an exclusive shape - a succession of half-Maltese-cross links – that gives it a precious and particularly refined look. With its triple folding clasp and double pushpiece locking system, this meticulously polished and satin-finished bracelet is incredibly supple and comfortable.
For sportier travellers, the pink gold Overseas Chronograph is also available on an elegant dark-brown, hand-sewn alligator strap, which is delivered with a second, more casual vulcarbonised rubber strap, also in dark brown.
Specifications:
Reference 47751/000G-9351 and 47751/000R-9351
Movement: 1222 SC, Self-winding mechanical
Anti-magnetic protection
Height of movement 4.90 mm
Diameter of movement 26.60 mm
Jewelling 34 rubies
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour
Indications: Hours, minutes, central seconds
Power reserve
2nd time zone with day / night indicator
Date hand
Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours
Case: 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold
Set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.90 ct)
Water-resistance 15 ATM, equivalent to a depth of 150 meters
Dial: Matte white varnish.
Slate day / night indication
10 applied hour-markers in 18K 5N pink gold with white luminescent strip
Strap: White hand-stitched, square-scaled alligator leather
Delivered with a second strap in white vulcarbonized rubber.
Clasp: 18K white gold or 5N 18K pink gold triple-blade, double-safety folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross
Reference 49150/B01R-9338 and 49150/000R-9338
Movement: 1137, Self-winding mechanic
Anti-magnetic protection
Height of movement 6.60 mm
Diameter of movement 26.20 mm
jeweling 37 rubies
Frequency 21,600 vibrations/hour
Indications: Hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock
Column-wheel chronograph
12-hour and 30-minute counter
Large date at 12 o’clock
Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours
Case: 18K 5N pink gold
Water-resistance 15 ATM, equivalent to a depth of 150 meters
Dial: Anthracite 12 applied 18K 5N pink gold hour-makers in with white luminescent strip
Strap: Polished and satin-finished 18K 5N pink gold or
Hand-stitched, square scaled, dark brown alligator leather
Delivered with a second strap in dark brown vulcarbonized rubber
Clasp: 5N 18K pink gold triple-blade, double-safety folding clasp polished half Maltese cross
SIHH 2008 Preview: Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile Collection Concept
Vacheron Constantin introduces Quai de l’Ile
Personalization, service, security, innovation: Spotlight on tomorrow’s watchmaking
The new Quai de l’Ile line from the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture introduces a unique dimension in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Personalized to meet the client’s wishes, this resolutely contemporary watch combines the most advanced technologies with the finest horological savoir-faire. Innovative, original, contemporary and sophisticated, the Quai de l’Ile line meets the demands of tomorrow’s Haute Horlogerie: personalization, security, service, excellent workmanship and savoir-faire.
With its new Quai de l’Ile line – named after the brand’s historic Geneva address – the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture reveals its pioneering character while drawing on over two and a half centuries of experience.
The case is revolutionary, the dial incorporates a whole range of security-printing technologies, the two self-winding mechanical movements – stamped with the Geneva Hallmark – have been designed and developed at Vacheron Constantin, and the product’s accessories – box, passport, USB key and multimedia elements – break new ground in the world of watchmaking.
Characterized by both technology and tradition, this combination of elements constitutes the unique genetic heritage of Vacheron Constantin’s new Quai de l’Ile line, an innovative and resolutely contemporary line that embodies the notions of service and the special relationship with the customer.
Personalization, the ultimate luxury
Personalization is the ultimate expression of luxury. It is also the elemental link in the relationship between a customer and brand, between expectations and service. It is to strengthen this link and to offer a unique experience to its clientèle that Vacheron Constantin has developed a concept of personalization that is totally new in Haute Horlogerie, a world first in fact. Thanks to the Quai de l’Ile case and its remarkable seven-piece middle, the customer can choose from three metals, two dials & two different finishes on the movements to realize the watch of his dreams. While the cushion shaped case allows for an infinite number of combinations, Vacheron Constantin is offering almost 400 for this year’s launching.
Quai de l’Ile: a name, a history, a symbol
The Quai de l’Ile has been Vacheron Constantin’s historical address in Geneva since the 19th century, ever since Jean-François Constantin (1829-1900) had a building constructed there in 1873-1874. A visionary, he already felt the need to give the manufactory a place which would help it stand out in the world of Geneva’s Haute Horlogerie and give it a more international dimension. This address soon became the symbol of an incomparable quality of service with the creation of personalized Haute Horlogerie timepieces that reflected the brand’s motto, “Do better if possible, which is always possible”.
Dynamic character
Designed in the dynamic of a sophisticated and contemporary line, the instantly identifiable Quai de l’Ile case expresses the tradition behind Vacheron Constantin’s 250+ years of history as well as the line’s resolutely innovative character. The case is cushion-shaped in the spirit of several historical models and its modernity is underscored by its dynamic character, fluid lines and original shapes, all of which give it a subtle balance.
Avant-garde technologies
The Quai de l’Ile’s complex mechanism can be seen through the line’s semi-transparent dials, which are an innovative blend of the world of watchmaking and sophisticated, top-secret technologies of security printing. Art and cutting-edge technology, extreme precision and aesthetic creativity come together in these exclusive and secure dials, which have four patents pending.
The Manufacture’s signature
The new Quai de l’Ile line will be launched with two models: the Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding and the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding. Both movements are stamped with the prestigious Geneva Hallmark. Designed, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, these state-of-the-art movements are coated with rhodium or ruthenium and visible through the dial. As well as indicating the hours, minutes and central seconds, the 2460QH calibre displays the date by means of
a disc, while the 2475SC/1 calibre displays the date, day of the week and power reserve with hands.
Pair of straps
Each Quai de l’Ile model is delivered with two straps: one in black or dark-brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square-scaled alligator leather; the other in dark-brown or black vulcanized rubber, with a refined and elegant design. Both types of strap come with a new triple-folding, double-safety clasp with a half-Maltese-cross flap. Specially designed for the Quai de l’Ile line, this clasp matches
the heart of the case and has a polished (palladium or pink gold) or satined(titanium) finish.
Secure environment
Vacheron Constantin was determined to push to the limits the concept of security that is the hallmark of the Quai de l’Ile line. The innovative product environment is an integral and extended part of the security and inviolability that characterize the dials. A Vacheron Constantin passport offering similar standards of protection and quality as a Swiss passport will accompany every watch in the line for its
lifetime. An innovative box, a USB key and a multimedia tool - all very original elements for a Haute Horlogerie watch - have been designed to correspond in every way to the watch’s contemporary character.
Pushing back the limits
With its sophisticated and contemporary character, the new Quai de l’Ile line (identified by its cushion shape) will develop alongside Vacheron Constantin’s two main pillars, the Malte (tonneau) and the Patrimony (round). It will be distinguished by its sophisticated technologies and its distinctive concept of personalization. The launching of the Quai de l’Ile line represents a milestone in Vacheron Constantin’s history, with the concept of personalization pushing back even further the limits of
exclusiveness that the Geneva-based manufacture has made its own.
Quai de l’Ile - The ultimate luxury of personalization
With its novel concept of personalization, the Quai de l’Ile line has given Haute Horlogerie a new dimension.
Sophisticated, bold and resolutely innovative, this contemporary line has achieved the feat of marrying the most sophisticated technologies to over 250 years of horological savoir-faire. As a result, Vacheron Constantin is determining the shape of tomorrow’s watchmaking.
Transparency and architecture
A watch from the new Quai de l’Ile line makes an immediate impact. Its semi-transparent dial is fascinating, its suspended displays astonishing, its distinguished, modern case appealing and its combination of materials intriguing. The case has been designed and developed in a resolutely avantgarde and architectural dynamic and lies at the heart of the personalization process. With a dial embodying the very latest security-printing technologies and a cushion-shaped case, the designers opted for a theme of transparency and avant-garde design. The technology invested in the case, as well as the vigour and power that emanate from it, will satisfy the most demanding enthusiasts of technical prowess, luxury and exclusiveness.
Almost 400 combinations
The personalization concept at the heart of the Quai de l’Ile line is unique in the world of Haute Horlogerie, a line that is midway between models from the Collection – entirely designed and made in the Manufacture – and the 100% made-to-measure watches from the Atelier Cabinotiers Special Order department. Personalization is based on four elements: the seven-piece case and middle, the dial with the latest security-printing technologies, the movement finishing, and the strap. In total, there are almost 400 combinations from which to create an exceptional timepiece that mirrors the wearer’s personality.
The Quai de l’Ile line will be launched with two models in 2008: the Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding (calibre 2460QH) and the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding (calibre2475SC/1). In the first instance, only the latter will be available in a personalized version in 100 exclusive sales points (Vacheron Constantin boutiques and retailers carefully selected for their quality of service).
First, the personalized watch is envisaged and designed by the future buyer with the aid of an interactive tactile screen developed by Vacheron Constantin and a set of material and color samples. It then enters its production cycle in Geneva and will be delivered within a few weeks, as agreed on beforehand with the client.
Avant-garde design
There is no need to explain to connoisseurs that the Quai de l’Ile cushion case is an avant-garde reinterpretation of a classic watch shape. Like legendary cars that are constantly redesigned to anticipate changes in style, the Quai de l’Ile case is the expression of an avant-garde watch conception, but one which is perfectly faithful to Vacheron Constantin’s stylistic spirit. In their search for fluidity, visually perfect curves, an assertive character and dynamism, the engineers and designers at Vacheron
Constantin explored the limits of these areas and created the case that today symbolizes Vacheron
Constantin’s concept of personalization - Quai de l’Ile
At the heart of personalization: the case
The innovative personalization of the Quai de l’Ile line is made possible by the unique 7-part construction of the case and middle.
Along with the other components of the watch – movement, dial and strap – this extraordinary construction means that Vacheron Constantin can offer almost 400 different combinations for the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding model.
While the middle – one of the components of a case – is normally a single element, Vacheron Constantin’s personalization concept is based on an assembled 7-part case comprising the following elements:
- Lateral flank at 3 o’clock
- Lateral flank at 9 o’clock
- Lugs at 12 o’clock
- Lugs at 6 o’clock
- Inter-lug piece at 12 o’clock
- Inter-lug piece at 6 o’clock
- Support plate
In addition to these 7 parts, the 41 mm case middle includes:
- Titanium inner case for all models
- Bezel
- Back
- Crown
Three groups of components
In its concern to preserve the aesthetic harmony of the whole and not wanting to make an impact with tens of thousands of combinations, though this would be technically possible, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture opted for a carefully planned personalization system. For this reason, it has defined three groups of components:
- Heart of the case (lugs + inter-lug pieces + back)
- Bezel
- Lateral flanks and support plate
The crown can also be personalized, but it has to be made of the material chosen for one of the other three groups.
A choice of three metals in any combination
The Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding can be personalized with a choice of three metals - 5N pink gold, titanium and palladium - for each of the three groups of components, and in any combination. This is the first time Vacheron Constantin has ever used titanium and palladium in one of its standard collections.
Pink gold (Au).
Titanium (Ti).
Palladium (Pd).
Besides the Quai de l’Ile watches that can be personalized in almost 400 combinations, Vacheron Constantin decided to offer a standard Quai de l’Ile line, comprising two models for its launching this year:
- Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding (calibre 2460QH)
- Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding (calibre 2475 SC/1)
Both models will be available in three different versions:
- Middle, back, bezel and crown in palladium – grey dial – rhodium-plated movement
- Middle, back, bezel and crown in pink gold – light dial – rhodium-plated movement
- Middle, back, bezel and crown in titanium – dark dial – ruthenium movement
Quai de l’Ile - At the heart of innovation: the dial
The dials of the Quai de l’Ile line are to watchmaking what the latest security printing techniques for bank notes are to the Gutenberg press. Light years apart!
These semi-transparent dials, which have four patents pending, are safeguards against
counterfeiting, integrating secret texts, micro-printing, security inks and UV markings using invisible ink. While incorporating the very latest advances in technology, they also present a magical visual effect.
For the first time, an Haute Horlogerie brand has joined forces with the world of security printing, that of bank notes and other documents that cannot be forged. Some of the most secret technologies have been used to produce the safest dials ever made, dials with truly innovative graphics that are absolutely faithful to the Vacheron Constantin spirit.
At the crossroads of art and the most sophisticated printing techniques, the spectacular dials of the Quai de l’Ile line are both eye-catching and intriguing.
With strange depths, striking contours, subtle interplays of transparency and opaqueness, alternating visible and invisible elements, precision markings and micro-printing, there is nothing remotely similar with the dial of an ordinary watch.
With the Quai de l’Ile watch, Vacheron Constantin is taking Haute Horlogerie into a new dimension.
Protection against counterfeiting
Orell Füssli Security Printing Ltd, printers of bank notes and Swiss passports, accepted for the first time to put its highly specialized savior-faire at the service of the watch industry. To give a more artistic dimension to this very technical process, Vacheron Constantin called on the services of Mr Roger Pfund, an internationally renowned Swiss designer who, among other things, has produced the graphics for many bank notes, both Swiss and foreign. He has designed the present
Swiss passport.
The Quai de l’Ile dials are remarkable for their technical features as well as their spectacular decorations, which in no way hinder the perfect legibility of the information they display. Other indications and markings are invisible in normal conditions, making these dials the most secure on the market.
This ultra-sophisticated dial, therefore, gives the Quai de l’Ile models complete protection against the scourge of counterfeiting.
Futuristic processes on sapphire
Technically, the Quai de l’Ile dials comprise two main elements:
- A sapphire crystal
- A security polymer
The sapphire crystal is an amalgam of cutting-edge techniques and refined processes, in particular those of:
- Laser engraving (with or without inking)
- Galvanic growth of metal, gold-plated
- Metallization
A sun alludes to the history of Vacheron Constantin
The dials on both models in the new line are illuminated by the sun, also produced by the metallization process. It is inspired by the clock on the Tour de l’Ile in Place Bel-Air, in the Saint-Gervais district of Geneva. At one time, all the watchmakers on the square set their watches and clocks by it.
An allusion to Vacheron Constantin’s past as well as a key security feature of the dial, the invisible ink disc affixed to the back of the security polymer (at the centre of the sun) can only be seen with a UV lamp.
This distinctive sign is also on the passport which comes with each watch.
The three secrets of the security transparent film
Stuck under the sapphire crystal, the security transparent film – the same one used for printing on bank notes – is made from a special chemical compound.
This security transparent film guarantees complete protection against counterfeiting, once it has been subjected to various products and extremely precise operations, like:
- The printing of micro-characters
- The use of security inks
- UV markings using invisible ink
On the movement side, the security transparent film has a pattern of hundreds of Maltese crosses and concentric circles. Depending on the version, it is printed with white or black ink.
On the dial side, the security transparent film has a pattern of concentric lines representing the spiral of time. These also serve as a seconds track. These lines – or rays – are printed alternately with light-grey and sepia ink or with light-grey and white ink.
A choice of two dials (dark or light) for 3 different effects
Three dial finishes are offered on all Quai de l’Ile versions:
- Grey – dark dial with a rhodium-plated movement
- White – light dial with a rhodium-plated movement
- Black – dark dial with a ruthenium movement
2475 SC/1 caliber (Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding)
&
2460 QH caliber (Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding)
Although the Quai de l’Ile line is the expression of a very contemporary language, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture never forgets the legitimacy it has earned in the watch industry from over 250 years of uninterrupted activity.
Accumulated experience and patiently acquired savoir-faire nourish the day-to-day thinking that goes into developing new mechanisms. Designed, developed and produced in-house, the 2475SC/1 and 2460QH calibres, which will power the first models of the Quai de l’Ile line, have grown out of this dynamic.
An exceptional timepiece needs an exceptional movement.
Respecting this principle, as it has for over 250 years, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture decided to equip the first models in its new Quai de l’Ile line with two of the very latest generation of self winding movements, developed and produced by the Manufacture and stamped with the famous Geneva Hallmark, the distinctive and prestigious sign of Haute Horlogerie.
Besides bearing the Geneva Hallmark, both movements are meticulously finished, in the Haute Horlogerie tradition: this includes Côtes de Genève decorations (circular on the dial side, straight on the movement side), chamfered, rhodium-plated bridges, and circular-grained plates.
Choice of finishing with both movements:
- Rhodium (light)
- Ruthenium (dark)
For the 2460QH calibre (Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding): Hours, minutes and central seconds, with an additional plate for the date disc. This date function has a novel feature: it is the disc that moves, not the numbers. The visual effect is of a date that “moves” every day to a different place on the dial.
For the 2475SC/1 calibre (Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding): Hours, minutes and central seconds, with an additional plate displaying the power reserve, date, and day of the week with hands.
These exemplary finishings have a special three-dimensional effect thanks to the unique interplay of transparencies created by the line’s sapphire crystal and by the view it provides into the heart of the mechanical movement.
To provide optimal legibility of the dial’s hour-circle, the two movements have a snailed exterior ring, rhodium - or ruthenium-finished depending on the version.
Finally, a new rotor has been developed – its design inspired by the back of the case - to reflect the spirit of the line. Made in ruthenium-finished 22K gold, it is distinguished by its pure lines, which are enhanced by five embossed fillets.
Quai de l’Ile - Meticulously planned environment
Everything for the Quai de l’Ile line has been meticulously planned. And coherence has been the watchword throughout the whole creative process, from designing the mechanical movements to making the presentation box.
The elements comprising the product environment have been subject to the same innovation, personalization and security criteria as those applied to the creative process of the timepiece itself.
The introduction of the Quai de l’Ile line has been an opportunity for Vacheron Constantin to totally re-think its approach to the product environment and to develop its role as a “citizen’s brand” by constructing solid bridges between the watch, its strong character and the set of elements designed to accompany it throughout its life. It has achieved this by not hesitating, when it is justified, to modernise the traditional characteristics of Haute Horlogerie. In so doing, Vacheron Constantin has
once again showed itself to be an innovator.
The new box has a resolutely contemporary and refined design: an unusual vertical shape, an integrated “display-case” window for admiring the watch at all times, even when it is closed, and a more compact size than a standard box of similar quality.
It has been designed to contain all the accessories that come with the new Quai de l’Ile watch. It holds a small travel pouch, lighter and more practical, that can also hold the watch and its accessories. Its size has been optimized to take up as little room as possible and to ensure that the owner can feel perfectly confident about safely carrying the watch in it.
As well as the watch, the pouch will hold all the Quai de l’Ile line accessories:
- A real passport: unique and dedicated to the watch,
- A USB key: with instructions for use, maintenance tips, technical information, a presentation of the manufacture, its history and its savoir-faire, photos, animated sequences, etc. The instructions for use are only printed in French and English to save on paper,
- Tools: a magnifying glass, a corrector pencil for the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding model, and a microfiber cloth,
- Second strap in alligator leather or rubber.
Info via Vacheron Constantine press file
Personalization, service, security, innovation: Spotlight on tomorrow’s watchmaking
The new Quai de l’Ile line from the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture introduces a unique dimension in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Personalized to meet the client’s wishes, this resolutely contemporary watch combines the most advanced technologies with the finest horological savoir-faire. Innovative, original, contemporary and sophisticated, the Quai de l’Ile line meets the demands of tomorrow’s Haute Horlogerie: personalization, security, service, excellent workmanship and savoir-faire.
With its new Quai de l’Ile line – named after the brand’s historic Geneva address – the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture reveals its pioneering character while drawing on over two and a half centuries of experience.
The case is revolutionary, the dial incorporates a whole range of security-printing technologies, the two self-winding mechanical movements – stamped with the Geneva Hallmark – have been designed and developed at Vacheron Constantin, and the product’s accessories – box, passport, USB key and multimedia elements – break new ground in the world of watchmaking.
Characterized by both technology and tradition, this combination of elements constitutes the unique genetic heritage of Vacheron Constantin’s new Quai de l’Ile line, an innovative and resolutely contemporary line that embodies the notions of service and the special relationship with the customer.
Personalization, the ultimate luxury
Personalization is the ultimate expression of luxury. It is also the elemental link in the relationship between a customer and brand, between expectations and service. It is to strengthen this link and to offer a unique experience to its clientèle that Vacheron Constantin has developed a concept of personalization that is totally new in Haute Horlogerie, a world first in fact. Thanks to the Quai de l’Ile case and its remarkable seven-piece middle, the customer can choose from three metals, two dials & two different finishes on the movements to realize the watch of his dreams. While the cushion shaped case allows for an infinite number of combinations, Vacheron Constantin is offering almost 400 for this year’s launching.
Quai de l’Ile: a name, a history, a symbol
The Quai de l’Ile has been Vacheron Constantin’s historical address in Geneva since the 19th century, ever since Jean-François Constantin (1829-1900) had a building constructed there in 1873-1874. A visionary, he already felt the need to give the manufactory a place which would help it stand out in the world of Geneva’s Haute Horlogerie and give it a more international dimension. This address soon became the symbol of an incomparable quality of service with the creation of personalized Haute Horlogerie timepieces that reflected the brand’s motto, “Do better if possible, which is always possible”.
Dynamic character
Designed in the dynamic of a sophisticated and contemporary line, the instantly identifiable Quai de l’Ile case expresses the tradition behind Vacheron Constantin’s 250+ years of history as well as the line’s resolutely innovative character. The case is cushion-shaped in the spirit of several historical models and its modernity is underscored by its dynamic character, fluid lines and original shapes, all of which give it a subtle balance.
Avant-garde technologies
The Quai de l’Ile’s complex mechanism can be seen through the line’s semi-transparent dials, which are an innovative blend of the world of watchmaking and sophisticated, top-secret technologies of security printing. Art and cutting-edge technology, extreme precision and aesthetic creativity come together in these exclusive and secure dials, which have four patents pending.
The Manufacture’s signature
The new Quai de l’Ile line will be launched with two models: the Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding and the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding. Both movements are stamped with the prestigious Geneva Hallmark. Designed, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, these state-of-the-art movements are coated with rhodium or ruthenium and visible through the dial. As well as indicating the hours, minutes and central seconds, the 2460QH calibre displays the date by means of
a disc, while the 2475SC/1 calibre displays the date, day of the week and power reserve with hands.
Pair of straps
Each Quai de l’Ile model is delivered with two straps: one in black or dark-brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square-scaled alligator leather; the other in dark-brown or black vulcanized rubber, with a refined and elegant design. Both types of strap come with a new triple-folding, double-safety clasp with a half-Maltese-cross flap. Specially designed for the Quai de l’Ile line, this clasp matches
the heart of the case and has a polished (palladium or pink gold) or satined(titanium) finish.
Secure environment
Vacheron Constantin was determined to push to the limits the concept of security that is the hallmark of the Quai de l’Ile line. The innovative product environment is an integral and extended part of the security and inviolability that characterize the dials. A Vacheron Constantin passport offering similar standards of protection and quality as a Swiss passport will accompany every watch in the line for its
lifetime. An innovative box, a USB key and a multimedia tool - all very original elements for a Haute Horlogerie watch - have been designed to correspond in every way to the watch’s contemporary character.
Pushing back the limits
With its sophisticated and contemporary character, the new Quai de l’Ile line (identified by its cushion shape) will develop alongside Vacheron Constantin’s two main pillars, the Malte (tonneau) and the Patrimony (round). It will be distinguished by its sophisticated technologies and its distinctive concept of personalization. The launching of the Quai de l’Ile line represents a milestone in Vacheron Constantin’s history, with the concept of personalization pushing back even further the limits of
exclusiveness that the Geneva-based manufacture has made its own.
Quai de l’Ile - The ultimate luxury of personalization
With its novel concept of personalization, the Quai de l’Ile line has given Haute Horlogerie a new dimension.
Sophisticated, bold and resolutely innovative, this contemporary line has achieved the feat of marrying the most sophisticated technologies to over 250 years of horological savoir-faire. As a result, Vacheron Constantin is determining the shape of tomorrow’s watchmaking.
Transparency and architecture
A watch from the new Quai de l’Ile line makes an immediate impact. Its semi-transparent dial is fascinating, its suspended displays astonishing, its distinguished, modern case appealing and its combination of materials intriguing. The case has been designed and developed in a resolutely avantgarde and architectural dynamic and lies at the heart of the personalization process. With a dial embodying the very latest security-printing technologies and a cushion-shaped case, the designers opted for a theme of transparency and avant-garde design. The technology invested in the case, as well as the vigour and power that emanate from it, will satisfy the most demanding enthusiasts of technical prowess, luxury and exclusiveness.
Almost 400 combinations
The personalization concept at the heart of the Quai de l’Ile line is unique in the world of Haute Horlogerie, a line that is midway between models from the Collection – entirely designed and made in the Manufacture – and the 100% made-to-measure watches from the Atelier Cabinotiers Special Order department. Personalization is based on four elements: the seven-piece case and middle, the dial with the latest security-printing technologies, the movement finishing, and the strap. In total, there are almost 400 combinations from which to create an exceptional timepiece that mirrors the wearer’s personality.
The Quai de l’Ile line will be launched with two models in 2008: the Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding (calibre 2460QH) and the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding (calibre2475SC/1). In the first instance, only the latter will be available in a personalized version in 100 exclusive sales points (Vacheron Constantin boutiques and retailers carefully selected for their quality of service).
First, the personalized watch is envisaged and designed by the future buyer with the aid of an interactive tactile screen developed by Vacheron Constantin and a set of material and color samples. It then enters its production cycle in Geneva and will be delivered within a few weeks, as agreed on beforehand with the client.
Avant-garde design
There is no need to explain to connoisseurs that the Quai de l’Ile cushion case is an avant-garde reinterpretation of a classic watch shape. Like legendary cars that are constantly redesigned to anticipate changes in style, the Quai de l’Ile case is the expression of an avant-garde watch conception, but one which is perfectly faithful to Vacheron Constantin’s stylistic spirit. In their search for fluidity, visually perfect curves, an assertive character and dynamism, the engineers and designers at Vacheron
Constantin explored the limits of these areas and created the case that today symbolizes Vacheron
Constantin’s concept of personalization - Quai de l’Ile
At the heart of personalization: the case
The innovative personalization of the Quai de l’Ile line is made possible by the unique 7-part construction of the case and middle.
Along with the other components of the watch – movement, dial and strap – this extraordinary construction means that Vacheron Constantin can offer almost 400 different combinations for the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding model.
While the middle – one of the components of a case – is normally a single element, Vacheron Constantin’s personalization concept is based on an assembled 7-part case comprising the following elements:
- Lateral flank at 3 o’clock
- Lateral flank at 9 o’clock
- Lugs at 12 o’clock
- Lugs at 6 o’clock
- Inter-lug piece at 12 o’clock
- Inter-lug piece at 6 o’clock
- Support plate
In addition to these 7 parts, the 41 mm case middle includes:
- Titanium inner case for all models
- Bezel
- Back
- Crown
Three groups of components
In its concern to preserve the aesthetic harmony of the whole and not wanting to make an impact with tens of thousands of combinations, though this would be technically possible, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture opted for a carefully planned personalization system. For this reason, it has defined three groups of components:
- Heart of the case (lugs + inter-lug pieces + back)
- Bezel
- Lateral flanks and support plate
The crown can also be personalized, but it has to be made of the material chosen for one of the other three groups.
A choice of three metals in any combination
The Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding can be personalized with a choice of three metals - 5N pink gold, titanium and palladium - for each of the three groups of components, and in any combination. This is the first time Vacheron Constantin has ever used titanium and palladium in one of its standard collections.
Pink gold (Au).
Titanium (Ti).
Palladium (Pd).
Besides the Quai de l’Ile watches that can be personalized in almost 400 combinations, Vacheron Constantin decided to offer a standard Quai de l’Ile line, comprising two models for its launching this year:
- Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding (calibre 2460QH)
- Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding (calibre 2475 SC/1)
Both models will be available in three different versions:
- Middle, back, bezel and crown in palladium – grey dial – rhodium-plated movement
- Middle, back, bezel and crown in pink gold – light dial – rhodium-plated movement
- Middle, back, bezel and crown in titanium – dark dial – ruthenium movement
Quai de l’Ile - At the heart of innovation: the dial
The dials of the Quai de l’Ile line are to watchmaking what the latest security printing techniques for bank notes are to the Gutenberg press. Light years apart!
These semi-transparent dials, which have four patents pending, are safeguards against
counterfeiting, integrating secret texts, micro-printing, security inks and UV markings using invisible ink. While incorporating the very latest advances in technology, they also present a magical visual effect.
For the first time, an Haute Horlogerie brand has joined forces with the world of security printing, that of bank notes and other documents that cannot be forged. Some of the most secret technologies have been used to produce the safest dials ever made, dials with truly innovative graphics that are absolutely faithful to the Vacheron Constantin spirit.
At the crossroads of art and the most sophisticated printing techniques, the spectacular dials of the Quai de l’Ile line are both eye-catching and intriguing.
With strange depths, striking contours, subtle interplays of transparency and opaqueness, alternating visible and invisible elements, precision markings and micro-printing, there is nothing remotely similar with the dial of an ordinary watch.
With the Quai de l’Ile watch, Vacheron Constantin is taking Haute Horlogerie into a new dimension.
Protection against counterfeiting
Orell Füssli Security Printing Ltd, printers of bank notes and Swiss passports, accepted for the first time to put its highly specialized savior-faire at the service of the watch industry. To give a more artistic dimension to this very technical process, Vacheron Constantin called on the services of Mr Roger Pfund, an internationally renowned Swiss designer who, among other things, has produced the graphics for many bank notes, both Swiss and foreign. He has designed the present
Swiss passport.
The Quai de l’Ile dials are remarkable for their technical features as well as their spectacular decorations, which in no way hinder the perfect legibility of the information they display. Other indications and markings are invisible in normal conditions, making these dials the most secure on the market.
This ultra-sophisticated dial, therefore, gives the Quai de l’Ile models complete protection against the scourge of counterfeiting.
Futuristic processes on sapphire
Technically, the Quai de l’Ile dials comprise two main elements:
- A sapphire crystal
- A security polymer
The sapphire crystal is an amalgam of cutting-edge techniques and refined processes, in particular those of:
- Laser engraving (with or without inking)
- Galvanic growth of metal, gold-plated
- Metallization
A sun alludes to the history of Vacheron Constantin
The dials on both models in the new line are illuminated by the sun, also produced by the metallization process. It is inspired by the clock on the Tour de l’Ile in Place Bel-Air, in the Saint-Gervais district of Geneva. At one time, all the watchmakers on the square set their watches and clocks by it.
An allusion to Vacheron Constantin’s past as well as a key security feature of the dial, the invisible ink disc affixed to the back of the security polymer (at the centre of the sun) can only be seen with a UV lamp.
This distinctive sign is also on the passport which comes with each watch.
The three secrets of the security transparent film
Stuck under the sapphire crystal, the security transparent film – the same one used for printing on bank notes – is made from a special chemical compound.
This security transparent film guarantees complete protection against counterfeiting, once it has been subjected to various products and extremely precise operations, like:
- The printing of micro-characters
- The use of security inks
- UV markings using invisible ink
On the movement side, the security transparent film has a pattern of hundreds of Maltese crosses and concentric circles. Depending on the version, it is printed with white or black ink.
On the dial side, the security transparent film has a pattern of concentric lines representing the spiral of time. These also serve as a seconds track. These lines – or rays – are printed alternately with light-grey and sepia ink or with light-grey and white ink.
A choice of two dials (dark or light) for 3 different effects
Three dial finishes are offered on all Quai de l’Ile versions:
- Grey – dark dial with a rhodium-plated movement
- White – light dial with a rhodium-plated movement
- Black – dark dial with a ruthenium movement
2475 SC/1 caliber (Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding)
&
2460 QH caliber (Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding)
Although the Quai de l’Ile line is the expression of a very contemporary language, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture never forgets the legitimacy it has earned in the watch industry from over 250 years of uninterrupted activity.
Accumulated experience and patiently acquired savoir-faire nourish the day-to-day thinking that goes into developing new mechanisms. Designed, developed and produced in-house, the 2475SC/1 and 2460QH calibres, which will power the first models of the Quai de l’Ile line, have grown out of this dynamic.
An exceptional timepiece needs an exceptional movement.
Respecting this principle, as it has for over 250 years, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture decided to equip the first models in its new Quai de l’Ile line with two of the very latest generation of self winding movements, developed and produced by the Manufacture and stamped with the famous Geneva Hallmark, the distinctive and prestigious sign of Haute Horlogerie.
Besides bearing the Geneva Hallmark, both movements are meticulously finished, in the Haute Horlogerie tradition: this includes Côtes de Genève decorations (circular on the dial side, straight on the movement side), chamfered, rhodium-plated bridges, and circular-grained plates.
Choice of finishing with both movements:
- Rhodium (light)
- Ruthenium (dark)
For the 2460QH calibre (Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding): Hours, minutes and central seconds, with an additional plate for the date disc. This date function has a novel feature: it is the disc that moves, not the numbers. The visual effect is of a date that “moves” every day to a different place on the dial.
For the 2475SC/1 calibre (Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding): Hours, minutes and central seconds, with an additional plate displaying the power reserve, date, and day of the week with hands.
These exemplary finishings have a special three-dimensional effect thanks to the unique interplay of transparencies created by the line’s sapphire crystal and by the view it provides into the heart of the mechanical movement.
To provide optimal legibility of the dial’s hour-circle, the two movements have a snailed exterior ring, rhodium - or ruthenium-finished depending on the version.
Finally, a new rotor has been developed – its design inspired by the back of the case - to reflect the spirit of the line. Made in ruthenium-finished 22K gold, it is distinguished by its pure lines, which are enhanced by five embossed fillets.
Quai de l’Ile - Meticulously planned environment
Everything for the Quai de l’Ile line has been meticulously planned. And coherence has been the watchword throughout the whole creative process, from designing the mechanical movements to making the presentation box.
The elements comprising the product environment have been subject to the same innovation, personalization and security criteria as those applied to the creative process of the timepiece itself.
The introduction of the Quai de l’Ile line has been an opportunity for Vacheron Constantin to totally re-think its approach to the product environment and to develop its role as a “citizen’s brand” by constructing solid bridges between the watch, its strong character and the set of elements designed to accompany it throughout its life. It has achieved this by not hesitating, when it is justified, to modernise the traditional characteristics of Haute Horlogerie. In so doing, Vacheron Constantin has
once again showed itself to be an innovator.
The new box has a resolutely contemporary and refined design: an unusual vertical shape, an integrated “display-case” window for admiring the watch at all times, even when it is closed, and a more compact size than a standard box of similar quality.
It has been designed to contain all the accessories that come with the new Quai de l’Ile watch. It holds a small travel pouch, lighter and more practical, that can also hold the watch and its accessories. Its size has been optimized to take up as little room as possible and to ensure that the owner can feel perfectly confident about safely carrying the watch in it.
As well as the watch, the pouch will hold all the Quai de l’Ile line accessories:
- A real passport: unique and dedicated to the watch,
- A USB key: with instructions for use, maintenance tips, technical information, a presentation of the manufacture, its history and its savoir-faire, photos, animated sequences, etc. The instructions for use are only printed in French and English to save on paper,
- Tools: a magnifying glass, a corrector pencil for the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding model, and a microfiber cloth,
- Second strap in alligator leather or rubber.
Info via Vacheron Constantine press file
SIHH 2008 Preview: Officine Panerai
PAM00297 Luminor GMT 44mm
Case: brushed steel
Dial: black dial, bracelet brushed steel with polished surface between the links
PAM00299 Luminor Marina Automatic 44mm
Case: brushed steel case, polished bezel
Dial: black dial, bracelet brushed steel with polished surface between the links
PAM00310 Luminor Chrono 40mm
Case: brushed steel case, polished bezel
Dial: black dial adjustable buckle
PAM00311 Luminor 1950 titanium 8 days
Chrono monopulsante GMT 44mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P2004 - 8 days chrono hand wound
Dial: brown sandwich
PAM00317 Luminor 1950 ceramic 8 days
Chrono monopulsante GMT 44mm
Case: ceramic and bezel
Movement: P2004 - 8 days chrono hand wound
Dial: black sandwich
PAM00306 Luminor 1950 titanium Tourbillon GMT 47mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: dial brown sandwich historic titanium buckle
PAM00315 Radiomir titanium Tourbillon GMT 48mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: brown sandwich with pink gold ring historic titanium buckle
PAM00316 Radiomir platinum Tourbillon GMT 48mm
Case: Platinum bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: black sandwich with pink gold ring radiomir white gold adjustable buckle
Special Editions:
PAM00309 Radiomir 47mm (black dial)
Case: 47mm, brushed titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XXVII (Minerva hand wound)
Dial: Black Sandwich with pink gold ring
PAM00322 Radiomir 47 MM (brown dial)
Case: 47mm, brushed titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XXVII (Minerva hand wound)
Dial: Brown Sandwich with pink gold ring
PAM00026 Luminor Marina Destro 44 MM
Case: 44mm, brushed steel with special hard black coating
Movement: Panerai OP II
Dial: Black sandwich
PAM00308 Luminor Regatta Chronograph 44mm
Case: 44mm, brushed steel
Movement: Panerai OP XXVI, COSC
Dial: Black with Paris Hobnails
PAM00307 Luminor 1950 Pangaea Submersible Depth Gauge 47mmM
Case: 47mm, titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XV, COSC
Dial: Blue
Case: brushed steel
Dial: black dial, bracelet brushed steel with polished surface between the links
PAM00299 Luminor Marina Automatic 44mm
Case: brushed steel case, polished bezel
Dial: black dial, bracelet brushed steel with polished surface between the links
PAM00310 Luminor Chrono 40mm
Case: brushed steel case, polished bezel
Dial: black dial adjustable buckle
PAM00311 Luminor 1950 titanium 8 days
Chrono monopulsante GMT 44mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P2004 - 8 days chrono hand wound
Dial: brown sandwich
PAM00317 Luminor 1950 ceramic 8 days
Chrono monopulsante GMT 44mm
Case: ceramic and bezel
Movement: P2004 - 8 days chrono hand wound
Dial: black sandwich
PAM00306 Luminor 1950 titanium Tourbillon GMT 47mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: dial brown sandwich historic titanium buckle
PAM00315 Radiomir titanium Tourbillon GMT 48mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: brown sandwich with pink gold ring historic titanium buckle
PAM00316 Radiomir platinum Tourbillon GMT 48mm
Case: Platinum bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: black sandwich with pink gold ring radiomir white gold adjustable buckle
Special Editions:
PAM00309 Radiomir 47mm (black dial)
Case: 47mm, brushed titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XXVII (Minerva hand wound)
Dial: Black Sandwich with pink gold ring
PAM00322 Radiomir 47 MM (brown dial)
Case: 47mm, brushed titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XXVII (Minerva hand wound)
Dial: Brown Sandwich with pink gold ring
PAM00026 Luminor Marina Destro 44 MM
Case: 44mm, brushed steel with special hard black coating
Movement: Panerai OP II
Dial: Black sandwich
PAM00308 Luminor Regatta Chronograph 44mm
Case: 44mm, brushed steel
Movement: Panerai OP XXVI, COSC
Dial: Black with Paris Hobnails
PAM00307 Luminor 1950 Pangaea Submersible Depth Gauge 47mmM
Case: 47mm, titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XV, COSC
Dial: Blue
Tuesday, April 1, 2008
SIHH 2008 Preview: Cartier Ballon bleu de Cartier
Cartier opens the watchmaking year at SIHH 2008 with a new version of the Ballon bleu de Cartier, this time with a masculine touch. Still the quintessential dandy watch, Cartier displays its peerless design savvy with the soft curves that typify this model.
Actually, that is an understatement. Present are the usual ball-like shape, the quirky crown (with a blue sapphire cabochon) and winding mechanism and the distorting glass however this time Cartier introduces a leather strap. The Ballon bleu de Cartier watch is round on the top and underneath, but upon closer inspection the shape is somewhat more complex: a watch that seems to fit the wrist weightlessly, as if the two were already acquainted. Cartier plays with the shapes and challenges your mind in the view of aesthetics. Perhaps masculine, perhaps feminine?
The winding mechanism is decorated with a sapphire cabochon, around which the dial orbits, and is more imposing than ever before due to a precious metal protective arch. Pictures cannot fully convey the unusual personality of the watch. Surely, the serious watch lover can pause to admire the audacity of the piece – and the audacity of its owner.
Although Ballon Bleu is available in 3 different sizes (28.5mm, 36.5mm, and 42mm) the last larger size is the one displayed in in pink gold. Available in different metals (WG, RG) as well in SS the automatic watch can also serve up the time – hours, minutes and seconds – in a very peculiar and distinguished way. The new Cartier Ballon Bleu watches range from $4,950 to $46,000, and there is even a limited edition version the sells for $950,000.
Specification:
* 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold case (also available in pink gold and SS).
* Hour, minute, second and date functions.
* 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold fluted crown decorated with a blue sapphire
cabochon.
* Varnished silvered opaline guilloche dial, black Roman numerals, date window at
3 o’clock.
* Blued steel sword-shaped hands.
* Crystal sapphire.
* 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold bracelet (also available in pink gold and
SS).
* 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold safety clasp(also available in pink gold and
SS).
* Cartier calibre 049 automatic movement.
* Water resistant to 30m/100ft.
Info via Cartier, Watch Tribune and Watch Quote.
Friday, March 28, 2008
2008 SIHH Preview: JLC Polaris
Press file provided by MJLC.
The 1968 Polaris
Memovox Tribute to Polaris, renaissance of a legendary watch.
For 175 years, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been tirelessly inventing and discovering new technical and aesthetic horizons, thus renewing the grand Swiss watchmaking traditions. Both reflecting and perpetuating this vocation, the Memovox Polaris represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration for the creative talents at work in the Manufacture. Regarded as the epitome of the sports watch for the past four decades, the Memovox is an extremely rare timepiece that is fiercely coveted by collectors. Its powerful design, dynamic form and blend of performance and energy continue to pervade all the Jaeger-LeCoultre sporting models to this day: from the Master Compressor Memovox to the AMVOX, as well as the all-new Master Compressor Diving watches. It was therefore high time for the Manufacture to express its gratitude to a watch that has become an icon. And what better tribute could it pay than by opting for faithful replicas equipped with the latest technical innovations inherent to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 21st century automatic movements?
The two models that made the most lasting impact on their era were chosen for the 2008 re-editions, presented under the title of Memovox Tribute to Polaris. The first corresponds to the original Memovox Polaris, as it was launched in 1965. The second is the most famous model of all, created in 1968.
History of a legend
Almost half a century ago, Jaeger-LeCoultre had already left an indelible imprint on the history of diving. The Memovox Deep Sea launched in 1959 was the very first diver’s watch to be equipped with an alarm. The latter served to remind the diver that it was time to return to the surface. It was driven by a Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 815, the first movement in watchmaking history to feature both automatic winding and an alarm function.
Six years later, the Memovox Polaris was born. Representing a new breakthrough in technological history, its triple-back case enabled optimal diffusion of sound under water. Since water resistance is the cornerstone of any diver’s watch, the new model featured the patented Piquerez Compressor system, as well as three super-sealed crowns.
Powered by the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 825, with a balance performing 18,800 vibrations per hour, the Memovox Polar also showed the date through a window at 3 o’clock. In harmony with the size of the case itself, the movement was remarkably large for a wristwatch: 14 lignes, meaning 31.6 mm in diameter, and 7.6 mm thick. In order to meet the specific demands of the American market, the first to show an interest, the Memovox was christened Polaris after the famous American missiles symbolising the Western strike force during the Cold War. But this name mostly echoed the adventurous spirit of the 1960s, distinguished by a determination to travel ever faster and further, in an era when the public at large was fascinated by the space race, ocean discoveries and polar exploration..
Research work began on the Memovox Polaris in 1962, and 1,714 of these watches were made between 1965 and 1970. They were equipped with several types of dial and hands, according to the markets for which they were intended; today, the slightest variations of numerals, hour markers and signatures generates passionate interest among fervent contemporary collectors.
In 2008, Jaeger-LeCoultre honors this legendary model by creating two Memovox Tribute to Polaris replicas. Each is a nod to one of the milestones in the history of this icon watch: the first corresponds to the original Memovox Polaris as launched in 1965; while the second is the most famous of them all, created in 1968.
A 21st century watch that is faithful to the original
To the delight of collectors and avid followers of the emblematic Polaris watch, the two Memovox Tribute to Polaris models faithfully reproduce the 1965 and 1968 models, while featuring their essential characteristics.
First of all, the large round 42 mm-diameter case with polished finishing and no visible bezel, equipped with three crowns featuring a chequered motif. Just as when this model was first introduced, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have inserted the rotating bezel beneath the dial, with its famous central triangle serving as an index for dive times. To facilitate handling, the case is equipped with a crown at 3 o’clock, framed by the two distinctive Memovox crowns. The one at 2 o’clock enables the user to adjust, wind and start or stop the alarm function, which has its own independent barrel. The other one at 4 o’clock services to set and wind the movement.
The alarm time indicator is immediately recognizable by means of a luminescent triangle in the dial centre. Controlled by the alarm crown, the central disc turns to line up the triangle with the desired alarm time.
Loyal to the black dial of their predecessors, each replica bears its own signature features. The 1965 re-edition has nickel-plated and polished straight hour-markers, Arabic numerals, luminescent rhodium-plated dauphine hands, and the Automatic Alarm Calendar inscriptions.
Meanwhile, the main indications on the re-edition of the most famous 1968 model are luminescent. This star model is also distinguished by its open worked baton-type hands and its large trapeze-shaped hour-markers. On both versions, the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo at 12 o’clock embodies this reassuring presence that asserts its mastery over time.
The sapphire crystal – a must in contemporary watchmaking – is exceptionally replaced on these models by a synthetic material forming the original domed shape of the Polaris watch. Purists will certainly concur with this deliberate infringement of current industry rules.
A new movement in the Memovox line
While the Memovox Tribute to Polaris watches are faithful to the spirit and aesthetics of their forerunners, they nonetheless naturally deserved to be equipped with the latest technical innovations by Jaeger-LeCoultre, in order to meet modern demands for precision, sturdiness and reliability.
As the latest interpretation of the automatic Memovox movement, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956 houses the striking mechanism, featuring a gong hanging at the back of the case, along with central seconds and instant-jump date-change system. Measuring 7.45 mm thick, it provides a 45-hour power reserve and a level of precision guaranteed by 28,800 vibrations per hour. Its oscillating weight is equipped with ceramic ball-bearings that require no maintenance or lubrication.
A double-back case guaranteeing water resistance to 200 meters
The historical Memovox Polaris was distinguished by its three-part case. The first element was an inside back in bronze that enhanced the resonance of the alarm sound. The second was a sealed back that protected the precious mechanism from any water seeping in, down to depths of 200 meters. The last was a third back drilled with 16 holes, which prevented the sound being muffled by the watch being squeezed against its owner’s diving suit.
The back of the Memovox Tribute to Polaris models features an inner sealed back that maintains its role as a resonance chamber (an additional bronze back is no longer necessary with a hanging gong), and an outer back with 16 round openings, secured to the water resistance back in harmony with the original design. The latter is adorned with an engraving inspired by the original ‘compressor’ diving helmet and a set of technical information provided inside the case of the original model to symbolize its exceptional water tightness.
A tribute encompassing the smallest details
The Memovox Tribute to Polaris is available in two limited series equipped with a black leather strap and small pin buckle. The 1965 model is issued in a limited edition of 65 in 950 platinum; while the steel 1968 model comes in a limited edition of 768. The two replicas are accompanied by a presentation box inspired by its vintage equivalent, complete with a certificate of origin and a booklet telling the story of the now legendary watch.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has revisited one of the landmarks in its history in order to train the spotlight on a creation embodying a degree of aesthetic and technical perfection that has consistently fired collectors’ enthusiasm and inspired the designers of the Manufacture over the past four decades.
The 1968 Polaris
Memovox Tribute to Polaris, renaissance of a legendary watch.
For 175 years, Jaeger-LeCoultre has been tirelessly inventing and discovering new technical and aesthetic horizons, thus renewing the grand Swiss watchmaking traditions. Both reflecting and perpetuating this vocation, the Memovox Polaris represents an inexhaustible source of inspiration for the creative talents at work in the Manufacture. Regarded as the epitome of the sports watch for the past four decades, the Memovox is an extremely rare timepiece that is fiercely coveted by collectors. Its powerful design, dynamic form and blend of performance and energy continue to pervade all the Jaeger-LeCoultre sporting models to this day: from the Master Compressor Memovox to the AMVOX, as well as the all-new Master Compressor Diving watches. It was therefore high time for the Manufacture to express its gratitude to a watch that has become an icon. And what better tribute could it pay than by opting for faithful replicas equipped with the latest technical innovations inherent to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s 21st century automatic movements?
The two models that made the most lasting impact on their era were chosen for the 2008 re-editions, presented under the title of Memovox Tribute to Polaris. The first corresponds to the original Memovox Polaris, as it was launched in 1965. The second is the most famous model of all, created in 1968.
History of a legend
Almost half a century ago, Jaeger-LeCoultre had already left an indelible imprint on the history of diving. The Memovox Deep Sea launched in 1959 was the very first diver’s watch to be equipped with an alarm. The latter served to remind the diver that it was time to return to the surface. It was driven by a Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 815, the first movement in watchmaking history to feature both automatic winding and an alarm function.
Six years later, the Memovox Polaris was born. Representing a new breakthrough in technological history, its triple-back case enabled optimal diffusion of sound under water. Since water resistance is the cornerstone of any diver’s watch, the new model featured the patented Piquerez Compressor system, as well as three super-sealed crowns.
Powered by the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 825, with a balance performing 18,800 vibrations per hour, the Memovox Polar also showed the date through a window at 3 o’clock. In harmony with the size of the case itself, the movement was remarkably large for a wristwatch: 14 lignes, meaning 31.6 mm in diameter, and 7.6 mm thick. In order to meet the specific demands of the American market, the first to show an interest, the Memovox was christened Polaris after the famous American missiles symbolising the Western strike force during the Cold War. But this name mostly echoed the adventurous spirit of the 1960s, distinguished by a determination to travel ever faster and further, in an era when the public at large was fascinated by the space race, ocean discoveries and polar exploration..
Research work began on the Memovox Polaris in 1962, and 1,714 of these watches were made between 1965 and 1970. They were equipped with several types of dial and hands, according to the markets for which they were intended; today, the slightest variations of numerals, hour markers and signatures generates passionate interest among fervent contemporary collectors.
In 2008, Jaeger-LeCoultre honors this legendary model by creating two Memovox Tribute to Polaris replicas. Each is a nod to one of the milestones in the history of this icon watch: the first corresponds to the original Memovox Polaris as launched in 1965; while the second is the most famous of them all, created in 1968.
A 21st century watch that is faithful to the original
To the delight of collectors and avid followers of the emblematic Polaris watch, the two Memovox Tribute to Polaris models faithfully reproduce the 1965 and 1968 models, while featuring their essential characteristics.
First of all, the large round 42 mm-diameter case with polished finishing and no visible bezel, equipped with three crowns featuring a chequered motif. Just as when this model was first introduced, the watchmakers of the Manufacture have inserted the rotating bezel beneath the dial, with its famous central triangle serving as an index for dive times. To facilitate handling, the case is equipped with a crown at 3 o’clock, framed by the two distinctive Memovox crowns. The one at 2 o’clock enables the user to adjust, wind and start or stop the alarm function, which has its own independent barrel. The other one at 4 o’clock services to set and wind the movement.
The alarm time indicator is immediately recognizable by means of a luminescent triangle in the dial centre. Controlled by the alarm crown, the central disc turns to line up the triangle with the desired alarm time.
Loyal to the black dial of their predecessors, each replica bears its own signature features. The 1965 re-edition has nickel-plated and polished straight hour-markers, Arabic numerals, luminescent rhodium-plated dauphine hands, and the Automatic Alarm Calendar inscriptions.
Meanwhile, the main indications on the re-edition of the most famous 1968 model are luminescent. This star model is also distinguished by its open worked baton-type hands and its large trapeze-shaped hour-markers. On both versions, the Jaeger-LeCoultre logo at 12 o’clock embodies this reassuring presence that asserts its mastery over time.
The sapphire crystal – a must in contemporary watchmaking – is exceptionally replaced on these models by a synthetic material forming the original domed shape of the Polaris watch. Purists will certainly concur with this deliberate infringement of current industry rules.
A new movement in the Memovox line
While the Memovox Tribute to Polaris watches are faithful to the spirit and aesthetics of their forerunners, they nonetheless naturally deserved to be equipped with the latest technical innovations by Jaeger-LeCoultre, in order to meet modern demands for precision, sturdiness and reliability.
As the latest interpretation of the automatic Memovox movement, the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 956 houses the striking mechanism, featuring a gong hanging at the back of the case, along with central seconds and instant-jump date-change system. Measuring 7.45 mm thick, it provides a 45-hour power reserve and a level of precision guaranteed by 28,800 vibrations per hour. Its oscillating weight is equipped with ceramic ball-bearings that require no maintenance or lubrication.
A double-back case guaranteeing water resistance to 200 meters
The historical Memovox Polaris was distinguished by its three-part case. The first element was an inside back in bronze that enhanced the resonance of the alarm sound. The second was a sealed back that protected the precious mechanism from any water seeping in, down to depths of 200 meters. The last was a third back drilled with 16 holes, which prevented the sound being muffled by the watch being squeezed against its owner’s diving suit.
The back of the Memovox Tribute to Polaris models features an inner sealed back that maintains its role as a resonance chamber (an additional bronze back is no longer necessary with a hanging gong), and an outer back with 16 round openings, secured to the water resistance back in harmony with the original design. The latter is adorned with an engraving inspired by the original ‘compressor’ diving helmet and a set of technical information provided inside the case of the original model to symbolize its exceptional water tightness.
A tribute encompassing the smallest details
The Memovox Tribute to Polaris is available in two limited series equipped with a black leather strap and small pin buckle. The 1965 model is issued in a limited edition of 65 in 950 platinum; while the steel 1968 model comes in a limited edition of 768. The two replicas are accompanied by a presentation box inspired by its vintage equivalent, complete with a certificate of origin and a booklet telling the story of the now legendary watch.
Jaeger-LeCoultre has revisited one of the landmarks in its history in order to train the spotlight on a creation embodying a degree of aesthetic and technical perfection that has consistently fired collectors’ enthusiasm and inspired the designers of the Manufacture over the past four decades.
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