Jeager-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 976 – The Guillermo Ceniceros Special Edition - Full Overview

Jeager-LeCoultre Grande Reverso 976 – The Guillermo Ceniceros Special Edition

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is recognized by watchmaking connoisseurs as an Art Deco icon that stands out from other horological creations with a case that slides at the base and rotates completely on itself. In celebration of the 80th anniversary of the Reverso, Jaeger-LeCoultre decided to invite renowned artists and engravers to create exceptional works of art that will be featured on the case back.

It was perhaps this uniqueness and originality that drove Jaeger-LeCoultre to create a unique Special Edition linked to conceptual art that pays homage to the renowned Mexican painter, muralist, and engraver Guillermo Ceniceros. This magnificent association takes shape in the impressive Grande Reverso 976 Guillermo Ceniceros Special Edition.

The first model of the Guillermo Ceniceros Edition features a stainless steel case with lacquer engraving and is limited to 50 pieces.

The second edition is in rose gold, featuring a fully engraved case, and is limited to 10 pieces.

The Reverso has the special ability to exemplify its owners’ unique personalities, and transform their physical and visual styles into the highest forms of art. What better canvas for a work of art than the masterpieces of Guillermo Ceniceros? The world-renowned artist’s murals and engravings embody geometric form, space and harmony, and are featured in public and private collections around the world.

The symbolism of duality has long been a focal point for Ceniceros – from his iconic human faces, to the geometry of the human body, to air and land, and to light and darkness. His vision aligns perfectly with the duality of time – a concept that Jaeger-LeCoultre has mastered through the Reverso.

Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jerome Lambert recognized that partnering with Maestro Ceniceros represented an opportunity to bring Mexican artistry to the forefront of haute horology, and foster an even greater appreciation for the company’s classic timepieces, as well as for Ceniceros’ work.

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watches promote the highest form of expression, both mechanically and aesthetically. The Reverso has elevated this expression to an art form. The true beauty of the Reverso lies in its unique and personal ties to the artistic community for over 80 years.

The Guillermo Ceniceros Special Edition attributes the precision of time to one face and the stoppage of time to the other face through the artist’s beautiful engravings. This splendid timepiece brings timeless artistry to the forefront of haute watchmaking and is a unique canvas for Guillermo’s renowned works.

“My interest in this collaboration focuses on the metal canvas that the Reverso represents. No other watch offers this. I was interested in being part of the 80th anniversary of an iconic model that has a rich heritage of collaboration with the arts, and now, too, an interest in the arts of Mexico. Art and horology have many things in common – certainly, the theme of precision. My work on the Ceniceros Reverso creates a new, very personal way for owners to relate to my art. I celebrate this.” -Guillermo Ceniceros
 
Artist Biography
Guillermo Ceniceros is an international renowned Mexican artist and one of the country's most important mural painters. His figurative public murals grace universities, hospitals nad the Mexico City subway system, and are enjoyed by over 500,000 people every day. Ceniceros' easel compositions and engravings center around themes such as space, geometry and the female form. These pieces grace the permanent collections of established museums and are part of important private collections, contributing to an aesthetic language and Ceniceros' internationally recognized cultural legacy.  

Technical Specification Grande Reverso 976 – Guillermo Ceniceros Limited Edition CALIBER: Jaeger-LeCoultre 976
MOVEMENT: Hand winding constructed of 151 pieces 

Vibrations per hour: 28,800
Power reserve: 48 hours
Jewels: 19
Barrel: 1 

Height: 4.15 mm
FUNCTIONS: Hour - Minute 
Seconds
CASE: Grande size 30 x 48.5 mm
Stainless steel
 Limited to 50 pieces, REF: Q373847M
Rose gold
 Limited to 10 pieces, REF: Q373247M
DIAL: Vertical black guilloché and Clous de Paris engraving
HANDS AND NUMERALS: Sword, vintage orange tint numerals and hands
STRAP/BRACELET: Alligator leather
BUCKLE: Double folding buckle 20.0 mm

This unique Grande Reverso Ceniceros Edition comes packaged with individual numbered lithograph art that inspired its creation.

With each watch you receive the Guillermo Ceniceros “Setenta Anos” book which chronicles the work of this living legend; a Special Edition Brochure about this project; numbered and signed lithograph displaying the concept art that was used for the engraving of each piece.

The Grande Reverso 976 Guillermo Ceniceros Special Edition was officially launched during the grand opening gala for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Mexico City Boutique, and is the first Mexico City boutique edition of it's kind. Since this special edition holds an unique place both in the hearts of Ceniceros art & watch collectors in the United States Jaeger-LeCoultre has arranged that orders may be booked and delivered thru the Beverly Hills Boutique.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute to Deep Sea Americane

Tribute to Deep Sea Americane

Vintage Tribute to a True Classic!

Mocha Focus & Refocus

Focus

Refocus

more to come ...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos Marqueterie - The Kiss

During the 2012 SIHH Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced another masterpiece Atmos Marqueterie ‘The Kiss’.  A work of art clock which hankers back to life the famous piece of work by Gustav Klimt (limited to10 pieces).

 Way back in 1904, Belgian financer Adolphe Stoclet had commissioned Gustav Klimt to create a piece of art that would build on what his core strength would be; mosaics. Out of that tryst in destiny was born the Kiss, which gave Klimt much of the fame he is now known for. It is also later found, that the artist used 1,200 pieces of wood, each covered individually with gold leaf to create this master piece, especially the marquetry on the exterior. After all these years, it comes alive in this form, where exotic wood varieties such as maple, walnut, Ceylon lemon, pear, madrona burl and ash burl create a cabinet to house this horological masterpiece.

The automatic responsive cabinet open up to show the crystal sapphire covered dial, which is again an example of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brilliance which cleverly hides the very button operating this function.  Speaking of the dial, it features generous use of handcrafted mother of pearl on the main dial, where as the built in moon phase indicator uses gold, diamonds and petrified wooden varieties. The interior lining of the cabinet however, is rhodium and crystal glass.

Speaking of the technicals, there is a Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 582 movement at the center of the watch function. It comprises of 386 handcrafted components, each put together individually. The beating rate for the movement is pegged at 120 vibrations per hour. As for the different functions there is the hour, minutes, 24-hour indicator, month and also the moon phase tracker. As for the official pricing there is none communicated to the public (rumored to be around +$200K) which is very fitting to the limited nature of this masterpiece and the work of art it represents.

Tudor Heritage Big Crown Ref. 79220R

The return of the Big Crown ... even if it's on a Tudor

One of the few (unofficial or sponsored you decide) leaks for the upcoming BaselWorld 2012 comes to us from no other then Tudor.  I could have just chalked this one up to the prevailing trend of other companies digging into their history coffers for ideas to bring yet another Tribute unless I was so excited to see an old friend coming back. (Again kudos to Jaeger-LeCoultre for starting this trend & always doing it the right way but then again I am biased)

So what's the lowdown on this new Tudor Heritage aka Black Bay Ref. 79220R.  The specs reported are as follows: larger 41mm steel case (I'm fine with slight increase), 8mm Big Crown (anything Big Crown is Godly in my book), Gilt dial(looks lovely on the rendering), Snowflake (not at all period correct as they are from 1970's Tudors and God awful style wise) hands, Convex glass (I hope this means its not sapphire cause Plexi is Sexy), automatic mechanical movement, on bracelet or leather strap with folding clasp, additional fabric strap with buckle.  OK so not everything is executed and as period correct to call it a proper Tribute as I would have liked (namely those garish snowflake hands which would be first to go then that red bezel insert which is unknown in vintage world), but all in all from what I see here it looks OK.  Also compared to Rolex recent re-designs of their staple classics I would say I prefer this exercise in revisiting this old vintage friend (faults and all).  

Comparing this Heritage to a true Vintage (as apples to apples) we simply can't do in all seriousness, especially when considering that last years Tudor Heritage Chrono was a very nice modern update of vintage Monte Carlo all while being priced at extremely affordable 3,000 Euro. I am expecting pretty much the same strategy with this Reference 79220R.

The earliest Submariner found in the Tudor family is the Reference 7922. The 7922 is a special watch as it would seem that both the Tudor Ref. 7922 Submariner and the Rolex Ref 6538 Submariner were introduced at the same time and indicate a simultaneous roll-out of the two models side by side. Also note that the Rolex and Tudor serial # ranges of the mid 1950's are almost identical.

The 7922 sports a 8mm Brevet "+" crown as does the Rolex 6538. The dial layout and hands are similar in styling, fonts and shape, to that of the Rolex 6538. Note the 100m dial vs. 200m dials is a difference between them but most likely the dials started out as 100m dials and in the late 1950's the 200m dials were introduced. The bezels are usually fitted as bi-directional bezels with red triangle - similar to the Rolex variation.  The movement is a cal. 390 Tudor movement. Originally produced by Fleurier.

This all brings us to an excuse to point out that they all are closely related to the vintage legend that is Rolex 6538 aka Big Crown. 

Truly a collectors dream piece.  Today one of the most desired, exclusive & highly valued timepieces of Rolex Submariner fame.  The extreme similarity to Rolex 6538 only helped make Tudor 7922 a legend in its own right and soon we will be able to own a small piece of it in Tribute to that Heritage piece the new Tudor 79220R.       

Vintage Heuer Obsession - well get your fix http://onthedash.com/

What became a chance discovery while scouring the Internets for some vintage Heuer fix I kept coming across this amazing site/forum/blog http://onthedash.com/ & since it has become my go to site for anything related to vintage Heuer. 

An absolute collectors dream for any kind of information & amazing reference on this wonderful vintage gems.  One could only wish we had resources like this for other brands and vintage timepieces.  

Today http://onthedash.com/ is celebrating its 9th Anniversary and I urge you to visit the best vintage Heuer resource in the Internets.   

Watch the Throne

Inspired by the totally awesome Hodinkee post about Jay-Z wearing Jaeger-LeCoultre ReversoTribute to 1931 I decided to get my saritorial swag on so I got totally overdressed for a lunch & decided to rock my JLC Reverso Grand Reserve 8 Jours in Pink Gold.

SIHH 2009 News: Jaeger LeCoultre introduces official channel on YouTube

I really liked the way the information was disseminated this year using various Internet media. As you know I am (and probably most everyone who is reading this blog) very internet centric so today I/we get most of my information primarily and directly via the internet. While there are many companies today that are utilizing this strategy for a various mix of marketing and information to some extent many are missing on the true potential and end reach of all available media tools.

This year Manufacture Jaeger LeCoultre again followed on their path of innovation and raised the bar a bit higher. There was a strong mix of interesting information snippets coming from JLC Le Club, Internet forums, Blogs, online/paperback magazines the one that took the cake for me was the newly introduced JLC YouTube channel . I really enjoyed having the ability to view (and review at my time and hearts content) organic and moving videos instead of just pictorials that many times display lack of that 3rd dimension. JLC YouTube channel comprises of selection of press releases presenting the newest and best of the Manufacture, previous horological achievements as well various other mini films. Notably as well a personal welcome and introduction of some SIHH 2009 novelties by JLC CEO Jerome Lambert. I think the info delivered in this manner presents for a much more personal experience for each viewer and overall a great success from what I could gather by now.


Lastly in a sign that not everyone is taking themselves too serious there is a video on top featuring two JLC collectors (one of them is yours truly) with dare I say surprising humorous twist. Check it out and tell me what you think. ;-)

Watch News: Global Recession Impacts Luxury Watches

The global recession has impacted the once recession-proof Swiss luxury watch business, according to reports from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry, the Richemont Group (Cartier’s parent), and the prestigious Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie luxury watch fair in Geneva, Switzerland.

"After several record-breaking years, Swiss watch exports in November—traditionally their best month—declined (by 15.3 percent in value, compared to November 2007) for the first time in almost four years. While all price segments dropped, the fall was greatest (down 30 percent) for watches between about $435 and $2,600 (export prices)."

The declines “clearly illustrates the curb on growth suffered by the industry as a result of the world economic climate,” an FH report said. Watch exports, about 10 percent of all Swiss exports, are expected to be less this year than in 2008.

The 18th SIHH (Jan. 19 -23) expects 15 percent fewer visitors—especially from the United States and Japan—than in 2008, when 17,000 from prestigious retailers worldwide attended the invitation-only event. Some show officials and attendees blame the global economic climate and what one Swiss newspaper calls “this challenging [watch] industry environment.”

Some also suggest holding the SIHH—usually in March/April to coincide with the international Basel, Switzerland, watch fair—in mid-January, due to a scheduling conflict at Geneva’s convention center, is also a factor.

In addition, SIHH’s exhibitors canceled their traditional evening events, normally highlights of the week, which celebrate the luxury watch business, some “to save money,” said a show spokesperson.

Info via JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 1/21/2009.

Horology News & Commentary: SIHH 2009 Cometh!

As the new year rolls around here cometh the SIHH 2009! Say what?


As announced last year this January appeared first-ever SIHH winter edition which saw some new features in a pretty challenging current global recession environment.

SIHH 2009 displayed the work of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, which promotes luxury watchmaking worldwide and is the SIHH’s organizer. The 2009 SIHH featured 17 of the globe’s most prestigious brands (12 owned by the Geneva-based Richemont Group). They are A. Lange & Söhne, Alfred Dunhill, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Girard-Perregaux, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Jean Richard, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Ralph Lauren, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin and Van Cleef & Arpels.

Some of the novelties and changes of the years prior:

- The Ralph Lauren Watch and Jewelry Co, a recent joint venture between the Richemont Group and the Polo Ralph Lauren fashion brand, has joined the SIHH exhibitors and unveiled its first-ever collection of timepieces. This is Richemont’s first joint venture with a luxury fashion designer and Polo Ralph Lauren’s first foray into luxury watches (more details on that later).

- Roger Dubuis will be there in a new light since the purchase by Richemont last year. The purchased manufacture movement kit facility which Richemont will continue to supply to Manufacture Roger Dubuis SA (founded and is managed by Mr Carlos Dias), under the terms of a long-term agreement. They will continue to operate as an independent manufacturer and distributor under the “Roger Dubuis” brand. It will supply the components for high end watch movements, not only for Roger Dubuis but also for Richemont’s own Maisons.

- The FH is showing the newest version of its world-traveling exhibition, “Think Time, Think Swiss Excellence,” not seen previously in Switzerland.


My visit was as well shortened to the years prior thus I didn't take as much as time to go through all the brands 2009 novelties as many of them IMO weren't truly anything groundbreaking nor was there prior years excitement due to the current economic environment affecting us all.

Unfortunately for most of us watch aficionados the main topic on most industry people minds was not the rather weak watch novelties, but instead the economic climate we are all facing in the upcoming months.

The Richemont Group, whose several prestigious international jewelry and watch brands issued a grim report this month. Important third-quarter sales dropped 12 percent overall, and 28 percent in the Americas alone, due to the global financial crisis and a decline in consumer confidence which had “a significant impact” on regional sales, it said. As a result of that the giant Cartier has put almost all 200 full-time workers making watch cases at one of its Swiss watch factories on part-time. From what I hear they are not alone either considering similar actions or already implementing planned cost cutting.

“Demand for luxury goods … has fallen dramatically,” the statement said, “and Richmond is facing the toughest market conditions since its formation 20 years ago.” With the current economic climate and uncertainties, it expects “no significant recovery in the foreseeable future” and will “take the necessary steps to not only see the difficult times through but to emerge stronger.”

From the last data I gathered there were over 600 watch related companies operating in Switzerland last year. Surely this was not all due to overwhelming insatiable demand and expansion of the watch industry seen during the last years of the horology renaissance. There were surely players in the industry that flourished yet there were some that just jumped on the gravy train and anyone (and their mother it seems) was able to get/make/buy a brand name and all of a sudden become a legitimate Swiss watchmaking company. Let's face the facts - there is no way all of them should have existed in the first place nor they will survive the current harsh environment present. This is a good thing as in my humble opinion there is about 30-40% much needed correction of these numbers. This all points that 2009 will be a undoubtedly a year of consolidation, after the unprecedented interest in technical, unique and exquisite watches of recent years had taken the industry to a level which was not reasonably expected to continue further in such manner.

So what can we expect from the year 2009 shakeout?

Only the strong and truly the value brands which were the leaders before and will continue providing not just a pretty shiny package, but a true horology advancement, innovation and value. Those leaders, as you might have suspected, are the bigger conglomerates and companies which sheer scale & magnitude of their resources puts them in the best position to adjust in order overcome this economic downturn.
Although being big company does not guarantee the survival if there is not capable or nimble upper management ready to to adjust their product to this changing market. There will undoubtedly be plenty of consolidation. Smaller fish will be eaten by the bigger and bolder competitors while other brands presenting little of actual horological or marketing value will be left alone to deservedly DIE! This weeding of the weak in the end is a good thing as it will leave us with more healthy and naturally stronger horological field benefiting us all in the end.

We have seen some minor effects already:
- Zenith announced some firings in its watchmaking workforce.
- Villemont seems to be the very first bankruptcy casualty.
- Bedat & Co. is being reported as currently being shut down.

Speaking at SIHH, Bernard Fornas (Cartier International President & CEO), told Reuters that “real, true luxury is back,” because the financial crisis is changing consumers attitudes and buying. “When people are buying something they are very tough with their choice of brands,” he said, and are now more likely to favor “strong” luxury brands, rather than lower-priced ones which call themselves luxury. Still, echoing Richemont's forecast, Fornas told Reuters, that currently “we don't see where the end of the tunnel is and we see no cause for optimism."

What to add in the end, except so very true!

News: United States President elect Barack Obama and his watches

I don't get to political on this blog, but this week historical Presidential elections here in the US captured mine as well the global attention thus they need to be mentioned even if it is just in the context of watches.

The junior United States Senator from Chicago, Illinois Barack Obama made history and is the first African American to be elected as the 44th President of the United States. This besides sweeping away the last racial barrier in American politics electing him with ease in many ways it signifies change and new hope for the citizens of this country as well the US image abroad in these difficult economic times.


So in the words of my President elect "If there is anyone out there who still doubts that America is a place where all things are possible, who still wonders if the dream of our founders is alive in our time, who still questions the power of our democracy, tonight is your answer. It’s been a long time coming, but tonight, because of what we did on this date in this election at this defining moment, change has come to America." All I can say Thank you Mr. President.

So enough of my mumbling about politics I thought it would be appropriate to take a look at the man of the moment from a different aspect and a more personal horological insight in this fantastic article Obama's watches by Jeff Stein. Enjoy!

Economic downturn & the effects on the horlogy industry?

Much has been said already about the global economic downturn affecting the US and now the rest of the world. So much in fact that it affects our daily thoughts in every aspect of our life. This impact is here to stay with us for unforeseen times thus affecting everything including many of ours horology acquisition and collecting habits. Now I will not go on about what/whom/where/why did it happen nor will I try and predict the future. All I will state is how I see it affecting me/us right not and how I see it developing.

There is definitely a correction from watch market valuation highs from the middle of the year especially evident in the vintage watch markets. The biggest change I see now (and for the future) is in the middle to low market where the effects are clearly evident. The middle to entry level consumers momentarily will see the sharpest decline due to lack of disposable income for luxury objects of desire. I say momentarily because as disposable income becomes available we will see the return en mass because the timepiece in today's digital age is not anymore just a time telling tool but rather the reflection of ones style, persona & emotional desires (very much like ones home, car, clothes, etc). On the other hand there is no abating in the high-end market with clear expansion in the very high-end due to unseciable demand in ever growing numbers of emerging markets new millionaires.

The positive thing of potential reduced demand for watches as a result of this is that finally the supply and manufacturing capabilities of the companies will catch up to true demand. Thus resulting in a move back to the equilibrium including both exuberant pricing increases of the past few years, increase in service and quality control of manufacturing, increase in true watchmaking talent pool & timely deliveries for the true aficionados that will stay in this horology game.

Another positive result evident already is sharp reduction of speculators and flippers which puts a smile on every true watch aficionado dial. In addition I foresee further consolidation in the horology industry with hopefully weeding out the overcrowded field of the weak, lemmings & the inconsequential that benefited from the past half decade of the horology renaissance. All in all as you can see not all news are that bad because once the economic fortunes bounce back (which eventually they undoubtedly will) the industry will emerge much more complete, efficient and stronger – of course this is just my humble opinion which just might be completely wrong.

Watch News: Decima MAS Strumento XZ 221 further versions

I have just gotten a confirmation from the makers of the Decima MAS seen in last year review of the Decima MAS Strumento XZ 221 that two additional variations of this Limited Edition model are incoming to market. As you read in the introduction of this piece the XZ221-001 is a water-proof instrument, produced and tested for extreme climatic condition featuring that unique, highly distinctive and IMHO wonderful red chocolate a.k.a. "root beer" dial. Since the watch inception as a dedicated LE of 1941 pieces it was originally planned to have, within this millesemation number, slight yet different variations to distinguish this unique model series even further.


Since then we have seen the addition of all black dial, but the news of the day is that the the new variants of the Strumento XZ will follow closely to the tool heroic roots. Think almost tactical series - an all manual wind 16 lignes movement and an all black case finish!!! Sounds stupendous thus I can't wait for a full debrief.

Due to embargo I can't specify much more, but I should have further detailed information towards the start of next week.

Horology News: LVMH acquires the Swiss watchmaker Hublot

Paris, 24 April 2008

LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, the world’s leading luxury group, announces that it has signed an agreement to acquire the Hublot group, a top of the range watchmaker enjoying very strong growth.

LVMH will acquire Hublot from Mr Carlo Crocco, who founded the group in 1980, and a company controlled by Mr Jean-Claude Biver, who has managed ublot since 2004.

Hublot is a brand that is highly complementary to LVMH’s existing watch portfolio comprising TAG Heuer, the world leader in prestigious sport watches and chronographs, the Swiss Watch Manufacturer Zenith, Dior Montres, Louis Vuitton watches sold exclusively in Louis Vuitton stores, and the watch collections of jewellers Chaumet, Fred and De Beers.

Strong growth potential

Hublot, which has its headquarters and workshops near Geneva, has started building a factory at Nyon to accommodate its expansion plans. Having grown at a rapid pace since 2004, the brand achieved net revenue of more than CHF150 million in 2007 with an excellent profitability. A very significant increase in revenue is expected in 2008.

Today, Hublot has a very selective and efficient distribution network which is limited to 300 stores worldwide.

Hublot has a well-balanced geographic footprint spanning Switzerland, Spain, France, Germany, the US, Latin America, Middle East, Russia, Japan, Hong Kong, Singapore… The brand has recently been launched in China and India and has strong growth potential in Asia, Japan, North America and in certain European markets.

Exceptional watches and chronographs

Hublot offers ranges of exceptional quality watches that are innovative, very differentiated and combining fusions of materials, precious metals, (gold, platinum,…) technological metals (titanium, tantalum…), ceramics, diamonds and natural rubber.

The renowned Big Bang collection includes models equipped with automatic movements whose prices range from €8,000 (steel and ceramic) to over €300,000, integrating precious metals and technical complexity.

A new Big Bang collection for women was launched at the last Basel watch fair with great success.

Finally, the traditional classic line has been recently redesigned using natural rubber, zircon, gold and ceramics.

Carlo Crocco, founder of Hublot, said : “I am happy that Hublot, an innovative brand since is creation, is joining the LVMH group, the world leader in luxury goods, whose creative passion is without any doubt a value that I have always shared.”

Jean-Claude Biver, the architect of the success of the Big Bang collection and the recent strong growth of Hublot, commented: “I am delighted that Hublot will be able to benefit from LVMH’s support and strategic leadership in the luxury goods industry and so maximise its growth potential in the years to come. I am happy to be pursuing this adventure and to be able to contribute to the development of LVMH’s watchmaking division alongside Philippe Pascal.”
Philippe Pascal, Chief Executive Officer of LVMH’s Watches & Jewelry business group, added: “Hublot is a strategic and very complementary acquisition. Its high-end positioning, selective distribution, financial performance and growth potential make Hublot a ‘rising star’. Hublot will strengthen our Watches & Jewelry business group which, over the last three years, has been growing strongly. We are very happy that Jean-Claude Biver will, along with the management team of Hublot, continue on this remarkable journey and contribute his considerable expertise to our development in this promising sector.”

Info via Watchluxus.com

SIHH 2008

Just came back from this years SIHH and boy was this an enlightening fair. I have to admit that the first impressions (as always) are everlasting, but in the end they are enduring only after some time has passed thus making the real sense of it all. I have plenty of literature to go through and to add to the blog for your viewing pleasure as well to include some more press releases, personal impressions about the fairs, brands, models and horology industry as whole. Unfortunately there will not be as many live watch photos from the fair as last year as my main (brand new I might add) 8GB memory card got corrupted and with it majority of images from the personal viewings of watches presented at the SIHH. I will try to catch up ASAP to answer all the backlog of emails and comments. Please stay tuned as soon we will be back to our more regular programming interval ;-)

SIHH 2008 Preview: Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar

Girard-Perregaux revisits the perpetual calendar, incorporating this sophisticated mechanism in the elegant case of a Vintage 1945 Square. Automatically indicating the date, day and month, this timepiece is also the first to be equipped with the all-new Microvar free sprung balance.

With the Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar, the Manufacture has created one of the finest jewels of a collection which has been constantly updated with refinement. Inspired by a rectangular wristwatch created in 1945, Girard-Perregaux has developed this Art Deco derived line, retaining the clean spaces and straight angles, but adopting a square case. The curve of the domed dial and the recessed applique counters play on the depth and spaces.

The attention paid to the details is revealed in all the parts, down to the rounded indices. This timepiece displays the date, day, month and moon phase, automatically taking into account the length of the months and leap years. Its 1461 day (i.e. 4-year) "mechanical memory" takes into consideration the variations in the Gregorian calendar.

This concentrated piece of watchmaking technology requires the combination of hundreds of components, forming a complex architecture. The movement crafted in-house by Girard-Perregaux is visible via the transparent case-back.


The Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar also incorporates an innovation derived from Girard-Perregaux's research in the field of chronometry: the Microvar free sprung balance. This exclusive development by the Manufacture combines a six-screw system and two regulating weights positioned on the rim of the balance, which are used to respectively set the balance of the rim and the rate of the watch. This construction enhances the excellence of the timepiece, fully expressing Girard-Perregaux's know-how.

Specifications:

Pink gold case

Dimensions: 34.20 x 32 mm
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back secured by 4 screws
Water resistance: 30 meters

Girard-Perregaux movement Ref. GP0033Q0

mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 ½ ’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions: hour, minute, perpetual calendar, moon phases indicatorAlligator strap with folding buckle

Also available with a white gold case and/or a black dial.

Info via Girard Perregaux press file.

SIHH 2008 Preview: Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante

Girard-Perregaux presents a world premiere: the first Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante. A remarkable tribute to the Manufacture's heritage, this timepiece reveals an unprecedented combination of some of the most sophisticated complications.

In around 1880, Constant Girard would develop one of the most effective and most accurate time measurement instruments of its era: a Rattrapante Chronograph with Foudroyante second, housed in a pocket watch. Nine years later, he would pull off another feat: his Tourbillon with three gold Bridges, a prize-winner at the Paris Universal Exhibition. In 2008, Girard-Perregaux is once more making use of these complex mechanisms, taking on a new challenge: combining all these complications in a perfectly proportioned wristwatch.

Only thirty-three connoisseurs will be able to own this uncommon watchmaking combination. Mass production has no place in this exceptional field: some five hundred and seven components are assembled by hand to make up the complete movement housed in the pink gold case, following the stringent rules of a watchmaking art that prizes special achievements.

In presenting this timepiece, Girard-Perregaux is remaining true to its tradition, and is continuing the development of its models with rattrapante and foudroyante second, which are among its most spectacular Haute Horlogerie creations. The rattrapante chronograph can register split times, during sports events for example. In this case it is supplemented by a foudroyante second, which runs in a counter at 9 o'clock: the hand makes a complete turn of its dial in one second, while imperceptibly marking a stop time every sixth of a second.


Lit up by the graceful Tourbillon with gold Bridge, the design of this timepiece is the be-all in elegance. Its host of complications blends into a harmonious dial which takes the expertise of the master-watchmaker, who knows that perfection is concealed in the most delicate details. The fine chronograph and rattrapante hands are superimposed when stopped. The rattrapante function is made especially discreet by the model only having two push-pieces: the one at 2 o'clock controls the rattrapante hand, while the one at 4 o'clock starts, stops and resets the chronograph. To complement the creation, the case lugs ensure a perfect fit on the wrist.

There are other sophistications specific to this movement. Girard-Perregaux improves the chronometric developments by equipping the rattrapante with an isolating device that ensures a constant balance amplitude. The foudroyante second mechanism is also ingeniously designed, to enable it to be combined with a Tourbillon.

Specifications:

Pink gold case

- Diameter: 44 mm
- Height: 17.10 mm
- Sapphire crystal
- See-through case-back secured by 6 screws
- Water resistance: 30 metres

Girard-Perregaux movement GP9973 mechanical with manual winding

- Tourbillon with gold Bridge, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- Calibre: 14 ½ ’’’Height: 9.30 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
- Jewels: 43Power reserve: minimum 96 hours (4 days)
- Tourbillon cage: 69 components, 0.4 grams
- Functions: hour, minute, small second on the Tourbillon, date, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- 507 parts
- Alligator strap with folding buckle

Limited and numbered edition of 33 pieces.

Info via Girard Perregaux press file.

Superb Video featuring the marvelous JLC Reverso Gyrotourbillon2

Take a look at this amazing video featuring the spectacular Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso GyroTourbillon2 . Simply marvelous and definitely worth spending some time to admire all the precise work put in this creation by the very best of the talented watchmaking team from the Grande Maison.


Again fantastic work by the whole MJLC team both in creation of this masterpiece as well as such suitable promotion vehicle. Bravo!

Is time running out at Antiquorum?

I already talked about Antiquorum controversies of past and the repeated subsequent coverage yet (un)fortunately this saga continues a new.

Couple of weeks ago Osvaldo Patrizzi, the charming and controversial founder of Antiquorum, has issued a news conference scheduled on 8th April 2008 at the SIHH where he is going to announce the details of his new auction house venture, PATRIZZI & Co. AUCTIONEERS. This new venture in his words will be "innovative in concept" and "revolutionary in approach" and with that this news brief was done.

Initially my response was: "Good for him!". I for one am wishing him success in the new venture especially due to all the controversy hoopla during his exit from the house that he built. No matter what one may think about the man he was instrumental in building Antiquorum to a leading house of horology auctioneers, as well promoting horology education, watch collecting, as well building certain brands to their previous luster. Now that being said, I am welcoming with open arms any added innovative competition which will aid to reign in quite excessive and seemingly constantly increasing fees from these Auction houses. Their unlimited levels of various fees (seller fees, buyers fees, listing fees, appraisal fee, final sale fees, currency and cashing in commission fees, delivery fees, etc) which are simply not the norm with other auction houses in other products. Anyway as a business model it is not really that conductive to increasing business to have your buyers shouldering any additional fees, but hey let's ignore the immense ongoing success of such online model(i.e EBAY.com).

Then a few days ago I read this article Is time running out at Antiquorum? and saw the battle continues. In this article as you can see (for good or bad) more of details of their brake up from both parties are disclosed. All these "testimonials" provide a bit more insight of the discord, which seem even more terminal then anyone previously thought, thus the previous news of Patrizzi new online auctioneer venture comes as no surprise.

I have no doubt that Mr. Osvaldo Patrizzi is primed for success with the right tools of the trade from experience in the business, immense knowledge of vintage markets and watches, charismatic alpha personality and most importantly the heavy industry connections he built up over the last 34+ years.

The main question is does he have the right feel of the pulse of the market (with implied improvements that will bring advantages to both buyers and sellers)? If I was a betting man (and I am) I would be seriously surprised if this new venture would be nothing short of success and Patrizzi will once again be ascending the top podium of horology auctioneers.

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original 1878 - Special Edition Moritz Grossmann

For watch city Glashütte, located in Saxony’s Müglitz Valley, May 1, 1878, is an important date in history. On this particular day, the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte was founded on the initiative of watch manufacturer Moritz Grossmann. Rooms from the community school building of the time served as the place of instruction. In its second year of existence, the increasing number of students made building a separate school building a necessity. With the generous support of the state government, the local authority district, and a foundation the new facility located in the heart of the city was inaugurated.

The picturesque city 130 years later: thoroughly renovated and refurbished, the former school building will be inaugurated on May 22, 2008, as the historical home of the German Watch Museum in Glashütte. While on two floors the moving history of Glashütte’s art of watchmaking will be conveyed in a vivid manner, one floor of the renovated building will retain its original function, housing Saxon manufactory Glashütte Original’s own Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking and continuing to keep Moritz Grossmann’s legacy alive.

Glashütte Original’s designers thus created a worthy timepiece in the 1878 – Special Edition Moritz Grossmann in memory of the great pioneer Moritz Grossmann, who combined the past with the present in a most wonderful way. The anniversary model was inspired by the design of historical pocket watches made by students in the 1920s, a timepiece such as this uniquely builds a bridge between the past and the future of Glashütte’s art of watchmaking. Then, as now, they were made as final exams by watchmaker apprentices.


Just one look at the dial is enough to recognize the fusion, and memories of graceful pocket watches of the past come to life. The silver-plated dial is home to sweep hour and minute displays whose blued and polished sword-shaped hands contrast with the background. Loyal to details, the hand arbor is lovingly polished by hand. Glashütte Original’s designers placed the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, while the minute scale and filigreed markers are placed in perfect harmony around the center of the 1878 – Special Edition Moritz Grossmann’s time display.


A lavish manufacturing process goes into making the deceivingly simple surface of the dial. Glashütte Original made the conscious decision to use a vintage tradition: the technique of frosted silver plating, also known as l’argenture grainée. The first step consists of machine-blasting the surface of the brass dial with a mixture of water, chalk, and wood. Then a paste containing silver powder and water is carefully applied by hand to the blasted surface. The result is a charmingly purist dial that magically attracts the observer’s eye with its refined surface structure.


A fluted bezel creates the perfect frame for the dial. The 40-millimeter case, available in white or rose gold, is outfitted with the most modern mechanics: automatic Caliber 100-11. A sapphire crystal case back allows one to observe the perfectly finished insides of the watch with all of its traditional elements belonging to Glashütte’s art of watchmaking close up.


The crowning glory of this special edition is the additional case back it comes with in rose or white gold hand-engraved portrait of Moritz Grossmann. A limited number of 130 pieces each of this watch in white and rose gold will be available worldwide.

Info via Glashütte Original