Retro'd

Summer is the perfect time to go all King of Cool retro like this vintage cognac leather fatstrap paying hommage to Paul Newman on my good ol' 1967 Submariner combo'd with the Steve McQueen foldable Persol 714. Rock on!

Sub & Cappuccino

Technicolor Tan

Black & White

Tudor Heritage Big Crown Ref. 79220R

The return of the Big Crown ... even if it's on a Tudor

One of the few (unofficial or sponsored you decide) leaks for the upcoming BaselWorld 2012 comes to us from no other then Tudor.  I could have just chalked this one up to the prevailing trend of other companies digging into their history coffers for ideas to bring yet another Tribute unless I was so excited to see an old friend coming back. (Again kudos to Jaeger-LeCoultre for starting this trend & always doing it the right way but then again I am biased)

So what's the lowdown on this new Tudor Heritage aka Black Bay Ref. 79220R.  The specs reported are as follows: larger 41mm steel case (I'm fine with slight increase), 8mm Big Crown (anything Big Crown is Godly in my book), Gilt dial(looks lovely on the rendering), Snowflake (not at all period correct as they are from 1970's Tudors and God awful style wise) hands, Convex glass (I hope this means its not sapphire cause Plexi is Sexy), automatic mechanical movement, on bracelet or leather strap with folding clasp, additional fabric strap with buckle.  OK so not everything is executed and as period correct to call it a proper Tribute as I would have liked (namely those garish snowflake hands which would be first to go then that red bezel insert which is unknown in vintage world), but all in all from what I see here it looks OK.  Also compared to Rolex recent re-designs of their staple classics I would say I prefer this exercise in revisiting this old vintage friend (faults and all).  

Comparing this Heritage to a true Vintage (as apples to apples) we simply can't do in all seriousness, especially when considering that last years Tudor Heritage Chrono was a very nice modern update of vintage Monte Carlo all while being priced at extremely affordable 3,000 Euro. I am expecting pretty much the same strategy with this Reference 79220R.

The earliest Submariner found in the Tudor family is the Reference 7922. The 7922 is a special watch as it would seem that both the Tudor Ref. 7922 Submariner and the Rolex Ref 6538 Submariner were introduced at the same time and indicate a simultaneous roll-out of the two models side by side. Also note that the Rolex and Tudor serial # ranges of the mid 1950's are almost identical.

The 7922 sports a 8mm Brevet "+" crown as does the Rolex 6538. The dial layout and hands are similar in styling, fonts and shape, to that of the Rolex 6538. Note the 100m dial vs. 200m dials is a difference between them but most likely the dials started out as 100m dials and in the late 1950's the 200m dials were introduced. The bezels are usually fitted as bi-directional bezels with red triangle - similar to the Rolex variation.  The movement is a cal. 390 Tudor movement. Originally produced by Fleurier.

This all brings us to an excuse to point out that they all are closely related to the vintage legend that is Rolex 6538 aka Big Crown. 

Truly a collectors dream piece.  Today one of the most desired, exclusive & highly valued timepieces of Rolex Submariner fame.  The extreme similarity to Rolex 6538 only helped make Tudor 7922 a legend in its own right and soon we will be able to own a small piece of it in Tribute to that Heritage piece the new Tudor 79220R.       

Halloween weekend & once again I'm pretending ... Hi my name is Bond, James Bond ;-)

Happy Halloween to you all ... now I have to rush as my Aston is double parked ;-)

Auction News: Sotheby’s Geneva Evening Sale of Important Watches

Sotheby’s Geneva Evening Sale will offer Important Watches at Auction on Sunday, May 11th, 2008. Comprising around 200 lots, the sale is highlighted by an important and possibly unique over-sized single button chronograph wristwatch created by Patek Philippe in 1932. Formerly the property of Count Carlo Felice Trossi, this piece is estimated to sell over $2 million.


The “Trossi Legenda” Patek Philippe

Measuring 46 millimeters in diameter, this chronograph is most probably unique and is one of the largest wristwatches ever made by the company. It was clearly specially chosen by Count Trossi as a practical timekeeper for use in motor racing and aviation to assist with the accurate timing of events in a highly visible format. In later years, aviators’ wristwatches were typically large in size and very few were made by Patek Philippe. Only one other wristwatch of similar size by Patek Philippe has appeared on the auction market and that was manufactured some 20 years later with a substantially smaller movement. Count Carlo Felice Trossiwas was born into an aristocratic Italian family 100 years ago on 27th April 1908. Captivated by the possibilities of speed, Count Trossi was a motor car and speed boat racer as well as an early pioneer of flight. In 1932 he became the President of Ferrari Scuderia. The highlights of Trossi’s motoring career culminated in his wins at the Italian and Swiss Grand Prix respectively in the years 1947 and 1948.

Another highlight in the sale is an extremely rare and fine over-sized stainless steel chronograph Patek Philippe wristwatch with register, no.862323, Ref. 530A, dated 1939. Among the four wristwatches with reference 530A known to have been made by Patek Philippe, the example included in the sale is the only one featuring this particular dial. From a private collector, this piece is estimated at CHF700,000-900,000 ($635,000-815,000 ).

Info via Sotheby's and Europastar.

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Rolex new models

The Baselword has commenced and the news from that worldwide heavyweight the Basel behemoth Rolex are coming in. As I mentioned previously in this post Rolex 2008 Baselworld Rumors there were many unconfirmed yet very highly regarded rumors from various legitimate sources about new models coming in before hand. Today we have a very first glimpse of the actual models trickling in. From what I can gather for now we can see that many of this "rumors" were indeed very true and qualified.

First the NEW larger model - The Seadweller Deep Sea.


Larger case (my estimate is like the YachtMaster II but bigger 43mm case), maxi dial, ceramic bezel, 12000ft/3900m depth rating, He escape valve, new adjustable clasp.






Second the New Submariner date - Blue dial and bezel available introduced only (for now that is) in White Gold of course update includes maxi case, dial and new bracelet (very much like the last years GMT Master II in 40mm). Also available in Yellow gold configuration with same updates but in Black dial/bezel combination. As with all Rolex initial introductions the updated models come in precious metals first followed soon (usually a year later) with SS and SS/metal configurations.



Third is the Daytona - now available in 18k Rose Gold or in Rolex parlay Everose gold. No reported modifications although from looking at the pictures available they might be supercased a la Maxi case from GMT Master II and new Sub, but I have serious doubts.


Introduced for the first time in 18K pink gold and in two different color dial combos.




Lastly the New Day Date II - the cases got supersized to a new 41mm case. Available exclusively in all the usual precious metals: 18K yellow, white and everose gold as well Platinum.

Platinum with grey dial

Platinum with glacier blue dial


White Gold


Yellow Gold


Pink Gold aka Everose



Info via Rolex.com, and TZ.com.

Antiquorum's "Rolex Revolution" Auction

Looks like this is going to be another milestone auction for Rolex vintage watches (to be held in on Thursday, 17 April, Antiquorum NY). There is a great preview of what to expect in terms of amazing quality and completeness of pieces that will be offered, spanning the whole history of Rolex, in this link Antiquorum's "Rolex Revolution" Auction from Timezone Rolex Vintage forum by Paul Boutros. There will be also hardcover auction catalog available ($75) as well as a free online PDF file(available here for download - Warning it is HUGE!) which will cover all these pieces in detail which could be a nice reference to own. There are many spectacular and quite rare pristine examples on the auction so even if you can't compete in the auction it would a real pleasure to at least make it to the preview and be able to see them in person. Unfortunately I will not be able to make the auction as I will be returning from my SIHH/Geneva trip, but I guess it's a fair trade off. ;-)



I also consider this to be an important auction that will definitely establish where does the current market for vintage Rolex stand and where will it go from now on. It's no secret to anyone who follows the vintage market that Rolex has been the single continuously overachieving superstar breaking all records in the secondary markets in the last half of this decade. Moreover every time the market was predicted to be overly exuberant or even simply overpriced (with fears of bubble bursting announced monthly and looming continuously in the eyes of collectors) to the bewilderment of all this market insatiable and seemingly limitless demand for quality vintage Rolex is simply unstoppable. I believe that with so many new flush entrants in the vintage Rolex market (especially those with New Money from the oil rich and new market economy superstars from places like far East, Russia, etc.) these prices can be sustained due to the fairly limited supply especially when considering that with the passage of time the relative lack of supply (I even dare say rarity) of top conditioned, complete and proven provenance pieces available. Despite the slowdown in majority of worldwide economies, especially the very real crisis looming in the US with expected slowdown in luxury spending which has detracted many of the "local" US based spending, the added weak dollar has just acted as opposite draw and attracted overseas buyers as more then ample replacements for all the "FX created bargains" to be plucked "overseas".

As with everything Crème de la Crème in life, in this case top prices of fine vintage timepieces, are not only sustainable, but are certain to always demand and receive willing buyers who want nothing but the very best - no matter does the asking price seem, for a lack of a better word, reasonable (at least to most of us mere mortals). IMO this one auction, for us vintage Rolex aficionados, will be the one to watch and closely analyze for future clues to the direction of this crazy thing that makes us tick with so much joy.

Rolex 2008 BaselWorld Rumors

Supposedly there are rampant rumors of some breakthrough novelties to be introed at this year BaselWorld by Rolex. As with every year these are just that rumors so many times I really don't take for much or at least with considerable grain of salt. This time the difference is that they seem to be coming from few different sources (All supposed to be from official Rolex insiders and/or legitimate employees with such knowledge). Although all of these could be a complete disinformation or just plain internet scuttlebutt I wanted to have them compiled and noted ahead of the unveiling just to be able to revisit to see what was indeed true or not. So not to beat too much around the bush there should be "up to 10 new novelties" introduced:

1. New Seadweller with doomed glass, maxi dial and ceramic bezel ala the new GMT-II.

2. New Seadweller case size, bracelet and movement.

3. New Sports watch (either the larger Seadweller or modified case).

4. Daytona modified (Pink gold and/or PVD?).

5. New Submersible (see points #1, #2 and #3 above).

6. All gold Sub introduced this year.

7. New larger (44/43/42mm) then current 40mm model (an update of either Sub or Seadweller).

8. GMT II with two color ceramic bezel in red and blue.

9. Re-endition of the legendary Jean Claude Killy.

10. Re-endition of the Dato Compax.

Antiquorum Monaco Only Watch Auction Results

September 20, Monaco Yacht Show.
In the presence of H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco, the Only Watch
07 charity auction of 35 unique timepieces, first in series or prototypes
raised the exceptional sum of € 2,756,500/ USD 3'878'946,/ CHF
4'553'186. All proceeds from this sale, organized by Antiquorum,
will help fund important medical Research on Duchene Muscular
Dystrophy.

Luc Pettavino, President of the Monaco Yacht Show and founder of
the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy said:

” Sometimes talent comes from really wanting something. Only
Watch has proven this to be true. Everyone who was involved in Only
Watch 07 wanted to be a part of its unique energy and excitement.
In this “second edition” of Only Watch, creativity, celebration,
generosity and professionalism all joined together in an outstanding
charity event that will benefit international research into Duchene
Muscular Dystrophy.

The 2.7 million euros earned will allow the Association Monégasque
contre les Myopathies to continue to support ongoing research programs
and to encourage new ones. Thanks to Only Watch, each new day brings
us closer to finding a therapeutic treatment to relieve the suffering
of children who have Duchene Muscular Dystrophy.

From the bottom of my heart, I would like to thank: HSH Prince Albert
II, who has sponsored and supported this event with great compassion;
the watchmaking brands; the auction house Antiquorum; the Monaco
Yacht Show; and all our partners.

Only Watch has become a yearly engagement in the world of charity
and Haute Horology. It is familiar and eagerly awaited by collectors
the world over, and it is immensely beneficial. Therefore, it is
with great pleasure that all the participants in Only Watch
07 join me in inviting you to attend the third Only Watch event,
to be held in September 2009: ONLY WATCH 09 - season III."

More than 300 people attended the auction, including
personalities such as Philippe Starck and Formula One driver Felipe
Massa. Fierce bidding in the room competing with hundreds of bidders
from all over the world via the Internet and over the telephone.  This
is the largest sum ever achieved by a charity event in Monaco.

Here the lots in alphabetical order (please click on the image for high definition picture):

 

Lot 1

Audemars Piguet ” Royal Oak
Offshore Volcano”, first in series.

A very fine, self-winding, stainless steel gentleman’s wristwatch with
approximately 60-hour power reserve chronograph, 30 minute and 12 hour registers,
date and  tachometer.

Sold:

40,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 2

Blancpain “Ultra-Thin” Pièce
Unique.

A very fine and exceptional 18k yellow gold keyless dress watch with ultra-thin
(1.9mm) mechanical movement and approximately 40-hours power reserve.

Sold:

70,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 3

Breguet ”Chronograph Classique
A Rattrapante” No.
1 of a limited edition of 7 pieces.

A very fine and important, 18k yellow gold gentleman’s wristwatch
with split-seconds chronograph, 30-minute register, tachometer and
enamel dial.

Sold:

90,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 4

Chopard “L.U.C. Chrono One Prototype” Fleurier
et Genève,
Prototype No. 1 of 2.

An exceptionally rare and interesting self-winding 18k white gold gentleman’s
wristwatch with approximately 60-hour power reserve fly-back chronograph, 30-minute
and 12-hour registers, date and a partially skeletonized dial.

Sold:

32,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 5

Corum Admiral's Cup Challenge 44 Regatta,
number 1 in a special edition

A very fine and important 18k pink gold self-winding gentleman’s wristwatch
with approximately 42-hour power reserve, reserve split-seconds chronograph,
30-minute and 12-hour registers, date and an 18k pink gold, and rubber bracelet.

Sold:

22,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 6

Daniel Roth  “Tourbillon
Date Retrograde Double Face” Pièce
Unique.

A very fine 18k pink gold double-dialled gentleman’s wristwatch
with one-minute tourbillon regulator, retrograde date, 64-hour power
reserve indicator and 18k pink gold dial.

Sold:

42,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 7

De Bethune “Time-Zone No.00”Pièce
Unique.

A very fine and important titanium and platinum gentleman’s
wristwatch with differential winding - sport and statics, 6-days
power-reserve indication and triple anti-shock system.

Sold:

45,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 8

deLaCour ”Saqra Weekend Graphite”Pièce
Unique.

A very fine and interesting graphite and 18k pink gold self-winding
gentleman’s
wristwatch with day, date and 40-hour power-reserve indication.

Sold:

14,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 9

DeWitt and Jean-Michel
Wilmotte. “Incognito 2008” One-of-a-kind model.

Time and Creation, united in the shared vision of Jean-Michel Wilmotte for the
design and DeWitt for the horological substance. One-minute flying tourbillion
regulator and 21-day power-reserve. To be unveiled in January 2008.

Sold:

400,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 10

Eterna “Madison” No.1
in a limited edition of 75 pieces.

A fine and special 18k pink gold centre seconds gentleman’s
wristwatch with deployant clasp.

Sold:

9,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 11

Franck Muller, “Totally Crazy
Monaco”,
Pièce Unique.

A very fine and amusing 18k white gold self-winding wristwatch with
random jumping hours, date and the Monegasque coat of arms on the dial.

Sold:

180,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 12

Frédérique Constant ”Heart
Beat Zerodur”, Pièce Unique.

A fine and important 18k pink gold astronomic gentleman’s
wristwatch with date, moon-phase indicator, innovative Zerodur
balance and Silicium escape wheel.

Sold:


11,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 13

Gerald Charles “Gérald Genta celebrates César” Pièce
Unique.

Very fine and interesting 18k white, pink and yellow gold “Compression
de Cesar” self-winding gentleman’s wristwatch with sliding-hours.


Sold:

40,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 14

Girard-Perregaux  “World Time-Perpetual
Calendar-Financial”, Pièce Unique.

A very fine 18k pink gold astronomic gentleman’s wristwatch with
Perpetual calendar world-time with 24 global locations, “trading-time” indication
for the major markets in the world and moon phase.

Sold:

17,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 15

Glashütte Original, “Prince’s
Palace of Monaco”,
Pièce Unique.

An exceptional 18k rose gold self-winding gentleman’s wristwatch
with a Meissen porcelain dial with a polychrome depiction of the ““Prince’s
Palace of Monaco”.

Sold:


30,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 16

Harry Winston “Avenue Exotic Birds - Set n°1
of a limited edition of 5”

A very fine set of four 18k white gold gem-set lady’s wristwatches
with gem set cloisonné enamel dials; this new mini-collection
is a fresh artistic and romantic interpretation of the Exotic Birds
theme.

Sold:

80,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 17

Hublot ”Big Bang Only Watch” Pièce
Unique.

A very fine, oversized black ceramic and titanium gentleman’s
wristwatch with chronograph, 30-min and 12-hour registers and date.

Sold:


28,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 18

Instrument et Mesures
de Temps  “Instrument de mesure de
Régularité”, Genève, Pièce Unique.

A very fine and important 18k pink gold gentleman’s wristwatch
with split-seconds chronograph 30-minute and 12 hour registers, date
and a triple pointer chronograph with different coloured hands corresponding
to 3 timing scales.

Sold:

26,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 19

International Watch Co. Schaffhausen “Fliegeruhr
5026, Perpetual Calendar” Pièce
Unique.

Very fine stainless steel astronomic gentleman’s wristwatch
with secular perpetual calendar and phases of the moon.

Sold:

80,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 20

Jaeger-LeCoultre“Joaillerie 101 Etrier”, Pièce
Unique.

An exceptionally fine18k white gold diamond and pink sapphire set
lady”s
back wound wristwatch.

Sold:

28,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 21

Jaquet Droz“Les
Douze Villes Monaco”,
Pièce unique.

An exceptional oversized 18k white
gold world-time wristwatch with jump-hour and time correction for
12 cities

Sold:

32,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 22

Louis Vuitton “Tambour
18 Mandarine Watch”, Pièce Unique.

Very fine and important 18k yellow gold diamond set lady’s
wristwatch with diamond set orange mother-of-pearl dial. Accompanied
by a Louis Vuitton “Mini-Trunk” designed in collaboration
with Paul Pettavino. 11 years old.

Sold:

66,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 23

Mauboussin “Oryx
Tourbillon”, No.1 in a special edition.

A very important 18k white gold gentleman’s skeletonized
wristwatch with visible one-minute tourbillon regulator.

Sold:

130,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 24

Omega “De Ville Hour Vision, Only
Watch”, Pièce Unique.

A very fine 18k red gold gentleman’s wristwatch
with two barrels and co-axel escapement, the case with sapphire crystal
body to view the movement.

Sold:

25,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 25

Officine Panerai ”RADIOMIR 10 Days GMT PINK GOLD” Pièce
Unique.

A very fine and important, gentleman’s
wristwatch with 10-day power reserve indicator, 24-hour dial and
day, night indication with special blue dial.

Sold:

44,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 26

Patek Philippe, Ref 5712T “Nautilus Titanium”, Genève,
Pièce Unique.

Watch made of titanium incorporating the automatic Calibre 240 with
hour & minute indicator, seconds' between 4 and 5 o'clock, power
reserve, date and moon phase display. This Nautilus Titanium is water-resistant
to 60 meters and features a two-colour dial with a horizontally embossed
pattern, a composite material strap, and a safety fold-over clasp in
titanium.

Sold:

525,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 27

Piaget, “Altiplano, Prince Albert
II” Pièce Unique.

A very fine 18k white gold diamond-set gentleman’s wristwatch
with diamond-set dial replicating the fingerprint of H.S.H Prince Albert
II of Monaco.

Sold:

38,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 28

Pierre Kunz, “Chrono Sport Monaco” Genève,
Pièce Unique.

A very fine and important stainless steel gentleman’s wristwatch
with chronograph, skeletonized retrograde 30-minute and 12-hour registers,
day/night indication and red “Texalium” dial.

Sold:

12,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 29

Richard Mille and Philippe
Starck “An
integral interpretation in titanium”, Piéce
Unique. 

A very fine skeletonized Titanium self-winding gentleman’s
wristwatch with fly-back chronograph, annual calendar, oversize
date, month, 12-hour register, 60-minute countdown time and approximately
55-hour power reserve (without chronograph running).

Sold:

320,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 30

Rodolphe ”Instinct
Chrono 180° Only Watch”,
Pièce Unique, Unique Inscription and Unique Dial.

An unusual PVD coated gentleman’s wristwatch with two movements,
one for the chronograph with constant seconds, date, 30-minute and
12-hour recorders and the other for the time functions.

Sold:

7,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 31

Swatch, “Pearly Pink”, Piece Unique.

A
stylish pink crystal set steel lady’s
quartz wristwatch.

Sold:

4,500 EUR

---

 

Lot 32

Ulysse Nardin“Maxi Marine Diver
Only Watch 2007 Set”, unique Set.

A very fine stainless steel and white gold gentleman’s wristwatch
with date and power-reserve indicator (approximately 42-hours). Accompanied
by a barometer and a copy of the book “Making of a Masterpiece”.

Sold:

24,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 33

Vacheron Constantin, “Malte Tourbillon Platinum” Pièce
Unique.

An exceptionally rare gentleman's platinum tourbillon regulator tonneau-shaped
wristwatch with date and 40-hour power reserve indicator. Also featuring
a carriage bridge in platinum (a first for Vacheron Constantin). The
case, dial, strap stitching and buckle are equally in platinum.

Sold:

130,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 34

Van Cleef & Arpels “Lady Arpels Féerie”,
Pièce Unique

A very fine 18k white gold diamond-set (D-E-F) lady’s wristwatch
with a purple guilloché dial. The delicate white gold and
diamonds fairy indicates the time thanks to an hour and minute retrograde
mechanical movement.

Sold:

70,000 EUR

---

 

Lot 35

Zenith “Defy Extreme Stealth 1000m Only Watch 2007”, Pièce
Unique.

A very fine titanium divers wristwatch with revolving graduated bezel,
chronograph, 30-minute register, central power reserve indicator and
partially skeletonized dial.

Sold:

45,000 EUR

---

Antiquorum is, unquestionably, the world’s leading
watch auctioneer; Of the 62 watches ever sold publicly by major auction
houses above SFR. 1,000,000, Antiquorum claims an impressive 44 .
In 2002, Antiquorum established the all-time world record price for
a wristwatch at auction when it sold a platinum Patek Phililppe World
Time Ref. 1415 from 1939 for an astounding CHF 6,603,500 (US$ 4,026,524).
This record-breaking price more than doubled the previous world record
price for a wrist watch at auction. Another record price for a modern
watch was achieved in 2004, the unique white gold Calibre 89, also
by Patek Philipe, was sold for SFr. 6,603,500 (US$ 5,002,652).

 


Info by Antiquorum