BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Ulysse Nardin Sonata Silicium

Ulysse Nardin’s revolutionary use of materials continues, with the use of silicium in all its new models. The dial, micro-precision components, exclusive spring, oscillator, anchor and escapement, developed in collaboration with ASRH (Swiss Association for Horological Research), are technical features used in the movement and design of this latest model.

With the Sonata Silicium Limited Edition, Ulysse Nardin demonstrates the versatile use of silicium in watch making, including the production of micro precision components for our watch movements and for aesthetic use in the manufacture of watch dials.
The dial of the SONATA SILICIUM is cut out of a silicium wafer in its striking natural color; so too is the logo inlay on the winding rotor visible through the exhibition sapphire back of the case. The movement runs with a 28’800 A/h oscillator and an anchor escapement etched out of silicium. This escapement is the result of a research program which ASRH conducted and in which Ulysse Nardin participated. Both the anchor and escapement wheel are manufactured of silicium. In addition, 3 of the innovations first presented in August 2007 and tested within Ulysse Nardin’s InnoVision program have found their way into a serial product and are applied for the first time in a commercialized timekeeper.

* The front side/back side etched anchor with its integrated safety pin.
* The front side/back side etched roller with its integrated impulse finger.
* The silicium (1.1.1) cut hairspring (patent pending)

The Sonata Silicium is based on the technical movement features of the Sonata Cathedral Dual Time including the novel alarm setting with a countdown indicator and the dual time system with the instant time zone adjuster featured in many Ulysse Nardin watches.

This patented dual time function permits time zone adjustments forward and backward by simply pressing the pushers plus (+) or minus (-) to change the position of the hour hand. The original home time (reference time) stays displayed while the date, the alarm and countdown adjust automatically when a time zone adjustment is made. Available in a limited series of 300 in both 18ct pink and white gold.


Specifications:

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, large date, dual time system with instant time zone adjuster, countdown, cathedral gong alarm.
Case: 18K pink or white gold, 42 mm (limited series of 300 in both pink and white gold). Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and anti-reflective, screw-down sapphire back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial: Silicium; Second time zone; countdown and alarm counters at 6 o’clock, 10.30 and 1.30 respectively; double date window at 4 o’clock.
Bracelet/Strap: Alligator with 18K pink or white gold folding clasp

Info via Ulysse Nardin press kit

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original 1878 - Special Edition Moritz Grossmann

For watch city Glashütte, located in Saxony’s Müglitz Valley, May 1, 1878, is an important date in history. On this particular day, the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte was founded on the initiative of watch manufacturer Moritz Grossmann. Rooms from the community school building of the time served as the place of instruction. In its second year of existence, the increasing number of students made building a separate school building a necessity. With the generous support of the state government, the local authority district, and a foundation the new facility located in the heart of the city was inaugurated.

The picturesque city 130 years later: thoroughly renovated and refurbished, the former school building will be inaugurated on May 22, 2008, as the historical home of the German Watch Museum in Glashütte. While on two floors the moving history of Glashütte’s art of watchmaking will be conveyed in a vivid manner, one floor of the renovated building will retain its original function, housing Saxon manufactory Glashütte Original’s own Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking and continuing to keep Moritz Grossmann’s legacy alive.

Glashütte Original’s designers thus created a worthy timepiece in the 1878 – Special Edition Moritz Grossmann in memory of the great pioneer Moritz Grossmann, who combined the past with the present in a most wonderful way. The anniversary model was inspired by the design of historical pocket watches made by students in the 1920s, a timepiece such as this uniquely builds a bridge between the past and the future of Glashütte’s art of watchmaking. Then, as now, they were made as final exams by watchmaker apprentices.


Just one look at the dial is enough to recognize the fusion, and memories of graceful pocket watches of the past come to life. The silver-plated dial is home to sweep hour and minute displays whose blued and polished sword-shaped hands contrast with the background. Loyal to details, the hand arbor is lovingly polished by hand. Glashütte Original’s designers placed the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, while the minute scale and filigreed markers are placed in perfect harmony around the center of the 1878 – Special Edition Moritz Grossmann’s time display.


A lavish manufacturing process goes into making the deceivingly simple surface of the dial. Glashütte Original made the conscious decision to use a vintage tradition: the technique of frosted silver plating, also known as l’argenture grainée. The first step consists of machine-blasting the surface of the brass dial with a mixture of water, chalk, and wood. Then a paste containing silver powder and water is carefully applied by hand to the blasted surface. The result is a charmingly purist dial that magically attracts the observer’s eye with its refined surface structure.


A fluted bezel creates the perfect frame for the dial. The 40-millimeter case, available in white or rose gold, is outfitted with the most modern mechanics: automatic Caliber 100-11. A sapphire crystal case back allows one to observe the perfectly finished insides of the watch with all of its traditional elements belonging to Glashütte’s art of watchmaking close up.


The crowning glory of this special edition is the additional case back it comes with in rose or white gold hand-engraved portrait of Moritz Grossmann. A limited number of 130 pieces each of this watch in white and rose gold will be available worldwide.

Info via Glashütte Original

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original Senator Rattrapante

The Glashütte Original manufacture presented an absolute highlight of the fine art of mechanical Glashütte watchmaking last year in the Senator Rattrapante. At Baselworld 2008, the Saxon manufacture presents another perfectly formed variation of the split-seconds chronograph.


Contrary to its predecessor, which was crafted in platinum, this version is currently being introduced in a more classic rose gold case. The domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal reveals a look at the cleanly designed and structured dial of the Senator Rattrapante, with all relevant details able to be gleaned at a glance. The sweep hour and minute hands as well as the off-center stop second hand glide in shiny blue across the light dial. Should the wearer activate the rattrapante function, the red split-seconds hand begins to chase after its blue counterpart.


A red minute scale with numerals inspired by historical models completes the elegant look, building a sober frame around the artistically designed dial. The silver totalizers fit harmoniously into the entire picture of this noble timekeeper, which includes the panorama date so typical of Glashütte Original at 4 o’clock. The Roman numerals underscore and perfect the timeless look of this very special chronograph.


The sapphire crystal case back allows the fine finishing of the individual components and subgroups of manually wound Caliber 99 to become visible. On this manually wound caliber developed exclusively for the Senator Rattrapante, all important turned components—parts such as stems, pinions, and wheels—are jeweled. A technical progression is represented by the premier of the escape wheel being embedded between end stones.


Here the tip of the escape wheel pinion is embedded in a jewel, which lessens friction on the escape wheel thanks to its smaller surface. A thus steadier balance allows for stabilization of the amplitude. The design of the rattrapante tongs’ floating bearings is also technically demanding. They make a balanced division of energy possible for simultaneously opening both tong halves without having to lean on the rattrapante’s fourth wheel. This type of design is one of the highlights of the fine mechanics visible through this jewel’s sapphire crystal case back. Another remarkable characteristic of the Senator Rattrapante as a demanding manually wound chronograph is its flyback function. The great advantage of this is that the wearer is in a position to take a differential time measurement, reading the result directly without having to reset.


This exclusive timepiece’s manually wound Caliber 99 ticks within a solid, completely polished rose gold case 42 millimeters in diameter. The Senator Rattrapante is secured to the wrist of its wearer by an integrated black Louisiana crocodile skin strap with a rose gold folding clasp.

Info via Glashütte Original

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original Senator Sixties Chronograph

The exciting era of the “wild ’60s” was the source of Glashütte Original’s designers’ inspiration in creating the Senator Sixties line. With the Senator Sixties Chronograph the Saxon manufacture now adds another aesthetic model to a line already so crowned by success.


Turning back time is not necessary in the case of the Senator Sixties Chronograph since this timepiece symbolizes the joie de vivre of the ‘60s very clearly for its wearer. The convex shape of the sapphire crystal on the front and likewise domed dial cleverly attract the observer’s eye. Domed, skeletonized hands glide harmoniously across the satin-finished dial, while the diamond-cut hour markers featuring characteristic dots of SuperLumiNova and the extravagant font of the numerals illustrate design typical of these years.

Glashütte Original’s designers positioned the chronograph totalizers at 3 and 9 o’clock on the dial. Polished silver zones allow the counters to integrate beautifully into the entire look of the dial design. The start and stop functions of the stylish chronograph are easily activated by the wearer with the aid of rounded buttons placed on the side of the case.


The shaped sapphire crystal case back first seen on the Senator Sixties models is naturally also present on the Senator Sixties Chronograph. It not only allows a direct view into automatic manufacture Caliber 39-52 with its characteristic elements of Glashütte watchmaking such as a three-quarter plate, swan-neck fine adjustment, Glashütte ribbing, and double sunburst decoration, but also for the first time makes a side view of the rotating oscillating weight crafted in 21-karat gold possible.


The energetic look of the Senator Sixties Chronographen is continued in its finely worked crocodile skin strap, the refined scales of which perfectly complete the retro design of this timepiece. The stainless steel model is available with a choice of a silver-colored or black dial.

Info via Glashütte Original

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL

The duplex swan-neck fine adjustment introduced by Glahütte Original in 2002 is the epitome of demanding haute horlogerie and innovative and aesthetic movement design. This technical development originally created especially for manufacture movement Caliber 65 allows for an especially precise adjustment of the movement’s beat and rate. This fine adjustment is positioned upon a balance bridge, which is a component only rarely found in watchmaking.


This design is not only a true highlight in terms of its technical design. This perfectly finished functional element is also a true eye-catcher in a visual sense—which was reason enough for the designers and movement designers at Glashütte Original to help this lavish invention get the attention it deserves on the dial of a watch, out in the open and visible. Thus, the new PanoInverse XL is especially transparent.

At numerous places within the movement, components and subgroups had to be re-worked or even freshly developed in order to make this wonderful timepiece a reality. The most of important of these included a new position for the balance bridge as well as a re-working of the winding subgroup, which resulted in a new design for a corresponding balance braking spring.

Furthermore, a transmission wheel for correcting direction was integrated and the design of the dial freshly conceived. These new elements resulted in the necessity of re-working all three plates and the wheel-pinion subgroups for the movement and power reserve so that they fit the new proportions. Thus, in the end, manually wound Caliber 66 experienced a new development.


The dial of the PanoInverse XL does not cover the full surface as do other models of the Pano line, but is rather executed as a small ring-like variation so that the desired section of the movement remains visible. The off-center arrangement of the hours, minutes, and seconds is positioned against a black background, the contrasting surface of which is shiningly underscored by the rose gold applied elements and Arabic numerals marking 3, 9, and 12 o’clock. Other traditional elements of Glashütte watchmaking such as screw-mounted gold chatons and blued screws charmingly stand out from the silver-colored background. A polished rose gold hand glides across the stylized power reserve display located on the three-quarter plate, offering information on the amount of tension left in the movement’s mainspring.

A clear highlight is without a doubt the uninhibited view of the artfully hand-engraved balance bridge and its duplex swan-neck fine adjustment. The regular oscillation of the balance located underneath the bridge guarantees a charming spectacle of time. This wonderful, artful ensemble lends the PanoInverse XL an incomparable appearance.


This exceptional watch is available in a polished rose or white gold case with a matching Louisiana alligator skin strap in black or brown. The PanoInverse XL is a fascinating timepiece for all lovers of fine watches that can’t get enough of looking at the exceptional design of Glashütte Original’s duplex swan-neck fine adjustment.

Info via Glashuette Original

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original various novelties

Glashütte Original Sport Evolution Perpetual Calendar





Glashütte Original Serenade Tourbillon




Glashütte Original Serenade Novelties

Blue


Brown


Ice


Lady Serenade Chronograph

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: World Time Ref 5131

The World Time, one of Patek Philippe’s emblematic complications, is highly sought-after by collectors, as are the famous and very rare world time models from the 40’s and 50’s. This exclusive model in yellow gold is beautifully decorated with a cloisonné enamel world map on the dial and an engraving on the bezel. The 24 time zones on their respective disks and the day/night indicator are very legible.


Specification:

Movement - Automatic, 240 HU calibre, 33 jewels, 21,600 vib/h. Unidirectional 22K gold mini-rotor, Poinçon de Genève
48-hour power reserve.
Functions - Hours, minutes, world time (local + 24 time zones simultaneously)
Case - 18K yellow gold, diameter 39.50 mm
Sapphire crystal, screw-down sapphire back. Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial - 3 zones: cloisonné enamel and gold centre, disk with black transfer names of cities, 24-disk with day/night indicator
18K yellow gold hands and applied hour-markers
Bracelet/Strap - Chocolate brown, hand-sewn, square-scaled alligator with 18K yellow gold folding clasp

Info via Patek Phillipe and Swiss Time

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Patek Philippe Ref. 5207 Quantieme Perpetual Tourbillon Repetition Minutes

Patek Philippe presents a new grand complication, Ref. 5207, in platinum with a minute repeater, tourbillon and instant perpetual calendar with original windows, for which two patents are pending.


The instant changing of all the date displays is a supplementary complication comprising 212 interacting components. This new exploit took more than five years to develop and is one of the brand’s most complicated wristwatches. Only a few will be produced each year.


Movement is the hand-wound Patek caliber RTO27PSQI, a minute repeater with tourbillon, COSC-certified as a chronometer and with the Geneva Seal mark.

The case, in platinum, measures 41mm. It has a sapphire crystal and sapphire display back (comes also with a solid back).

Specifications:

Movement - Hand-wound, R TO 27 PS QI calibre, minute repeater with tourbillon escapement, COSC-certified, Poinçon de Genève.
Functions - Hours, minutes, small seconds, instant perpetual calendar in windows (day, date, month, leap-year, day/night indicator) and moon phases.
Case - 950 platinum, 41 mm, set with a pure Top Wesselton diamond (0.02ct). Sapphire crystal. Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal backs
Dial - 950 platinum hands and applied hour-markers. Small seconds and moon phases at 6 o’clock.
Bracelet/Strap - Matt chocolate brown, hand-sewn, square-scaled alligator with 950 platinum folding clasp

Info via Patek Phillipe and Swiss Time

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Rolex new models

The Baselword has commenced and the news from that worldwide heavyweight the Basel behemoth Rolex are coming in. As I mentioned previously in this post Rolex 2008 Baselworld Rumors there were many unconfirmed yet very highly regarded rumors from various legitimate sources about new models coming in before hand. Today we have a very first glimpse of the actual models trickling in. From what I can gather for now we can see that many of this "rumors" were indeed very true and qualified.

First the NEW larger model - The Seadweller Deep Sea.


Larger case (my estimate is like the YachtMaster II but bigger 43mm case), maxi dial, ceramic bezel, 12000ft/3900m depth rating, He escape valve, new adjustable clasp.






Second the New Submariner date - Blue dial and bezel available introduced only (for now that is) in White Gold of course update includes maxi case, dial and new bracelet (very much like the last years GMT Master II in 40mm). Also available in Yellow gold configuration with same updates but in Black dial/bezel combination. As with all Rolex initial introductions the updated models come in precious metals first followed soon (usually a year later) with SS and SS/metal configurations.



Third is the Daytona - now available in 18k Rose Gold or in Rolex parlay Everose gold. No reported modifications although from looking at the pictures available they might be supercased a la Maxi case from GMT Master II and new Sub, but I have serious doubts.


Introduced for the first time in 18K pink gold and in two different color dial combos.




Lastly the New Day Date II - the cases got supersized to a new 41mm case. Available exclusively in all the usual precious metals: 18K yellow, white and everose gold as well Platinum.

Platinum with grey dial

Platinum with glacier blue dial


White Gold


Yellow Gold


Pink Gold aka Everose



Info via Rolex.com, and TZ.com.

Rolex 2008 BaselWorld Rumors

Supposedly there are rampant rumors of some breakthrough novelties to be introed at this year BaselWorld by Rolex. As with every year these are just that rumors so many times I really don't take for much or at least with considerable grain of salt. This time the difference is that they seem to be coming from few different sources (All supposed to be from official Rolex insiders and/or legitimate employees with such knowledge). Although all of these could be a complete disinformation or just plain internet scuttlebutt I wanted to have them compiled and noted ahead of the unveiling just to be able to revisit to see what was indeed true or not. So not to beat too much around the bush there should be "up to 10 new novelties" introduced:

1. New Seadweller with doomed glass, maxi dial and ceramic bezel ala the new GMT-II.

2. New Seadweller case size, bracelet and movement.

3. New Sports watch (either the larger Seadweller or modified case).

4. Daytona modified (Pink gold and/or PVD?).

5. New Submersible (see points #1, #2 and #3 above).

6. All gold Sub introduced this year.

7. New larger (44/43/42mm) then current 40mm model (an update of either Sub or Seadweller).

8. GMT II with two color ceramic bezel in red and blue.

9. Re-endition of the legendary Jean Claude Killy.

10. Re-endition of the Dato Compax.

It's that time WIS again - BaselWorld & SIHH 2007

It is that time again for all of us Watch Idiot Savants.

BASELWORLD, the World Watch and Jewellery Show, will be opening its doors in Basel between April 12 and 19, 2007. As the luxurious venue for the watch and jewellery sectors, this leading trade Show within the industry is set to provide the economic impetus for 2007. For the 2,100 exhibiting companies and more than 90,000 visitors attracted from across the world, BASELWORLD 2007 will once again be the highlight of the year for the luxury goods sector.

SIHH, the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, a private trade fair, now in its sixteenth year and held in Geneva each spring from April 16 to 21st, 2007. Sixteen prestigious Haute Horlogerie brands are exhibiting at the 17th SIHH: A.Lange & Söhne, Alfred Dunhill, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier, Cartier, Girard-Perregaux, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, JeanRichard, Montblanc, Officine Panerai, Parmigiani Fleurier, Piaget, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, Van Cleef & Arpels.

In 2006, the SIHH welcomed more than 12,000 visitors, including 5,400 customers and 1,200 journalists from around the world. This year upon the invite from my friends at Jaeger-LeCoultre I will be in attandance to fully report on all the exhibiting brands.