Watch News: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Survivor Chronograph

Over the last year much has been speculated by AP's ferment ROO aficionados about the final design and name of yet another very much talked about AP Special Edition ROO. Well the time has come and it's finally here! On November 6th the day of the Global Launch (sounds so sinister) all of the AP ROO faithful have gather around the world to be finally introduced to a finished product they debated about for so long.


Overall I find the finishing and many of the design cues to be very interesting and well executed in particular my surprise that I'm for once a fan of the execution of the dial which with ROO's can be IMHO very cluttered and dare I say colorfully confusing. The open worked hands and vertical grooved ceramic bezel are another two aesthetically successful details tying up the whole "sinister" design. I also liked that they successful carried on the wider non-tappered vulcanized rubber style strap first introduced on the Team Ainghi LE.


On the other hand what I don't like is cartoonish elements such as these crown guards, notched "gun barrel" rim of the crown, as well as the ratcheted case edge. Then its the usual complaint of YET another LE ROO (number 69 and counting LOL), yet another PVD'd black watch (I thought only Hublot was the company that still thinks that is something innovative) and of course lets not forget the very lame name. No secret here that I am no fanboy of ROO's altogether but c'mon AP how long can you continue following the same old ROO LE thing.

“Survivor” mission:

- Readability, functionality and high precision, the wearer is liable to find himself confronted with an unknown and hostile environment – overpopulated megalopolis, urban jungle cosmic construction sites, etc.
- High-tech architecture: ultra-light, high-resistance materials that adjust to body temperature.
- Design: ergonomic and sophisticated, genetic markers of the Royal Oak Offshore collection pushed to extremes.
- Mechanical performance: exclusive chronograph movement.

Technical specifications:

Follow this link to see the SURVIVOR MOVIE

High-tech materials:

Blackened titanium plays the starring role. This ultra-light material has been chosen for the case and the surrounding elements: studs, push pieces and guards, crown and oversize strap buckle. The same goes for the medallion back featuring a special non-slip texture.

Titanium also shows up on the lower part of the octagonal bezel, while its upper part opts for ceramics. The latter is distinguished by clearly marked vertical grooves reminiscent of the characteristic satin finish of the Royal Oak Offshore collection.

The strap is made from vulcanized rubber, an indispensable part of the extreme sports universe. Its matte black granular surface accentuates the adventurous camouflage-type look of this chronograph issued in a limited edition of 1000.

Shapes and ergonomics:

Each detail is meticulously designed to ensure a blend of efficiency and lightness. The perforations on the bezel lighten up the structure without compromising its sturdiness. The hollowed push pieces equipped with a security look ensure user-friendly handling. In a similar vein, the generous size and notched rim of the crown, as well as the ratcheted case edge, facilitate getting a quick and sure grip on this exceptional instrument. The conical shape of the push pieces guarantees instant activation of the chronograph function, while the skeleton hands, luminescent hour-markers and silver-colored small seconds counter guarantee optimal readability by day or night. And finally, since nothing is left to chance, a careful observer will note the apertures on the case middle and studs.

The Royal Oak Offshore signature features:

- Strongbox-type case water-resistant to 100 meters, with anti magnetic system designed to protect the mechanism from any hostile element
- Hexagonal socket-head screws echoing the legendary hexagonal screws of the Royal Oak Offshore models
- Exclusive “Mega Tapisserie” guilloché pattern on the dial, matched on this model by the checkered motif on the strap
- Strap perfectly integrated with the case

High-precision instrument

The Royal Oak Offshore Survivor houses the exclusive Audemars Piguet self-winding Calibre 3126/3840, guaranteeing sturdiness, reliability and precision rating:
- up to 60 hours’ power reserve thanks to a mainspring which, by supplying constant force over a longer time-span, ensures enhanced rating accuracy;
- a cross-through balance-cock reinforcing the stability of the movement;
- a balance-stop mechanism serving to immobilize the seconds hand and thus enabling time-setting to the nearest second;
- a variable-inertia balance equipped with eight inertia-blocks enabling precise and stable adjustment;
- fast date correction with an integrated security system avoiding any risk of date disc blockage when the adjustment occurs at midnight;
- bidirectional automatic winding of the mainspring by means of a 22-carat gold rotor mounted on a ball-bearing mechanism;


Technical Specifications
Royal Oak Offshore Survivor Chronograph

Reference
26165IO.OO.A002CA.01
Limited series of 1000

Movement
Calibre: 3126/3840, self winding
Total diameter : 26 mm (11 ½ lignes)
Thickness : 7.16 mm
59 jewels
365 parts
Up to 60-hour power reserve
Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Variable-inertia type balance with eight inertia-blocks and a flag balance-spring
Geneva-type mobile balance-spring stud-holder
Three-position winding crown
Finishing: all parts decorated by hand; main plate rhodium-plated, bevelled and stippled; bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

Case
Strongbox-type case with anti magnetic system, cone-shaped pushpieces, hollowed pushpiece guards, crown, crown guard and studs in blackened titanium
Perforated ceramic bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 1.565 mm
Water resistance: 100 metres
Medallion back in blackened titanium with non-slip motif, titanium zone engraved with the inscription Royal Oak Offshore Survivor – Limited Edition

Dial
Matt black, exclusive “Mega Tapisserie” guilloché motif
Snailed hour circle
Luminescent open worked hour and minute hands
Luminescent applied hour-markers

Strap
Vulcanized rubber with chequered motifs and oversized buckle in blackened titanium

Functions
Hours and minutes
Small seconds
Chronograph with central sweep seconds hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters
Tachometer scale around the flange
Date

For more real world photos of the watch as well some excellent coverage of the Survivor launch follow the link posted by TZ's Paul Boutros of the AP NY Boutique event

News: Jaeger-LeCoultre signed a Partnership agreement with the U.S. Navy SEALs!

Yup exciting news for all vintage, military and especially JLC aficionados report by the great Stephan Ciejka from LaRevuedesMontre


Translated: "The Swiss Manufacture Jaeger LeCoultre has signed a cooperation agreement with the special forces command of the U.S. Navy, and becomes the partner of the famous watchmaker Navy SEALs, commandos and combat swimmers of the Navy of the United States. This collaboration is expected to last several years, and will lead to the production of special series, and more limited, which will be tested by operators of the unit during the coming months. The activity of this elite unit made a test laboratory particularly valuable."


In short the announcement of the cooperation with JLC and U.S. Navy SEALs resulting in development of some very cool diving watches over the next few years. The only other thing I can disclose is that we might see some sooner then the summer is expected ;-)

Independent watchmakers News: Great artickle about new brand from Ludwig Oeschslin - "Ochs und Junior"

A great report by Timm Delfs brought us by Ian Skellern at Horomundi. If you are fan of the simplistic genius work that Ludwig Oeschslin has been doing over the years you will definitely love to hear more about this collaboration with Paul Gerber. Both the "Settimana Junior" and "Anno" feature innovative and simple display such as the one seen on Settimana - semicircle of dots that indicate what day of the week it is.


"Anno" a more "serious" piece features a new Paul Gerber automatic caliber and Ludwig's specialty of annual calendar. All this and being in such minimalist design yet on the other hand quite complicated and impeccably finished. I love news like this thus I am quite intrigued and can't wait to hear more.

Info and photo via www.Horomundi.com and www.ochsundjunior.ch/

TAG Heuer joins the FHH club

La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland — TAG Heuer has become a member of the exclusive Swiss watchmaking club, the Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), joining the ranks of the Richmond heavyweights such as Cartier, Jaeger Le-Coultre and Audemars Piguet.

For TAG Heuer, the membership became official Oct. 1, capping off "a 150-year history dedicated to the pursuit of ultimate precision and inspired by a constant quest for innovation," the brand said in a press release issued earlier this week.


As part of its association, TAG Heuer will showcase the "Grand Carrera Calibre 8 RS Grande Date GMT," part of the Grand Carrera series of 2007, at two of this season's most important watch fairs: the Munich Time show, set for Oct. 30 through Nov. 2, 2008, in Munich, Germany, and the Salon Belles Montres in Paris, set to take place Nov. 28-30.

Established in Geneva in 2005 to celebrate the heritage and values of fine watchmaking, the FHH promotes Swiss watchmaking culture and tradition by communicating the professional and ethical values of authenticity, creativity and innovation on which the industry's legitimacy is founded.

"The FHH has gained the respect and admiration of the fine watchmaking industry as a whole," Jean-Christophe Babin, president and chief executive officer of TAG Heuer said in a press release issued Monday. "We are extremely proud to become an active member and thus demonstrate our commitment to the founding values of haute horlogerie."

More details can be found on the official FHH Web site.

I welcome their addition so hopefully at a future event we'll finally get to see the much talked about yet maligned in both delivery & execution - the Monaco V4 concept.

Economic downturn & the effects on the horlogy industry?

Much has been said already about the global economic downturn affecting the US and now the rest of the world. So much in fact that it affects our daily thoughts in every aspect of our life. This impact is here to stay with us for unforeseen times thus affecting everything including many of ours horology acquisition and collecting habits. Now I will not go on about what/whom/where/why did it happen nor will I try and predict the future. All I will state is how I see it affecting me/us right not and how I see it developing.

There is definitely a correction from watch market valuation highs from the middle of the year especially evident in the vintage watch markets. The biggest change I see now (and for the future) is in the middle to low market where the effects are clearly evident. The middle to entry level consumers momentarily will see the sharpest decline due to lack of disposable income for luxury objects of desire. I say momentarily because as disposable income becomes available we will see the return en mass because the timepiece in today's digital age is not anymore just a time telling tool but rather the reflection of ones style, persona & emotional desires (very much like ones home, car, clothes, etc). On the other hand there is no abating in the high-end market with clear expansion in the very high-end due to unseciable demand in ever growing numbers of emerging markets new millionaires.

The positive thing of potential reduced demand for watches as a result of this is that finally the supply and manufacturing capabilities of the companies will catch up to true demand. Thus resulting in a move back to the equilibrium including both exuberant pricing increases of the past few years, increase in service and quality control of manufacturing, increase in true watchmaking talent pool & timely deliveries for the true aficionados that will stay in this horology game.

Another positive result evident already is sharp reduction of speculators and flippers which puts a smile on every true watch aficionado dial. In addition I foresee further consolidation in the horology industry with hopefully weeding out the overcrowded field of the weak, lemmings & the inconsequential that benefited from the past half decade of the horology renaissance. All in all as you can see not all news are that bad because once the economic fortunes bounce back (which eventually they undoubtedly will) the industry will emerge much more complete, efficient and stronger – of course this is just my humble opinion which just might be completely wrong.

Cigar Review: Saint Louis Rey – Serie A

Cigar review: Saint Louis Rey – Serie A Box Code: Nov. 1995

This box was abruptly cracked open after a 13 year sleep in the humidor specifically on my request and generously gifted by a good friend, so big thanks to Viken. I figured this at least deserved a proper review as one doesn’t get a chance to find such home aged treasures so easy. So enough of the chit chat and let’s get into the nitty gritty of things.


As you might see for yourself the wrapper held a nice colorado color and was devoid of any veins (not much plume to report to which I was surprised due to its 13 year old age, but I could have just whipped it off while handling it).  I had it a bit on a dry side below 63% RH (still no to dry) to avoid any draw and burn problems - there were none.  The draw was excellent, easy and slow yet not to fast to rush the cigar.  The cigar provided a nice amount of smoke and created wonderful white and firm ash.
It was truly divine and nothing like I expected it to be (isn't being positively surprised the best thing in the end?).  If I was to guess I would have not been even close to SLR Series A as the profile was even mellower then what I was expecting, however the taste was wonderfully complexed.  As for taste I was drinking a nice Bordeaux (with my NY strip) so it didn't really jibe perfectly overpowering the cigar which I rectified soon enough by poring a bit of my Caol Ila aka peaty nectar of Gods ;-)  Now for the taste there was no harshness of a young cigar to be noticed whatsoever. Also I didn't get any licorice, chocolate or too much cedar taste so easily associated with Series A, but rather the musky meaty earthy tones which later developed into espresso and dark chocolate all over laced with subtitle yet noticeable sweetness that I could only describe as combo of honey and caramel.  From my memory the progression from start to finish was not as pronounced as with many younger examples I sampled before although there certainly was a progression it was much more delicate and smooth.  The overall flavor of tobacco and cedar was there even though it didn't dominate the palate (as with many fresh cigars) it maintained the presence through, while allowing other flavors to show through and enhance the overall tasting experience.  I don't do analytical scoring, however if I did this one would score right there at the top in the category of delicate and refined flavors experiences I had a chance to enjoy.

The biggest mistake I did was not pairing this up with more suitable restrained drinking choice as it certainly did deserve a much superior match.  What I gathered from this experience is that really there is no myth of aging cigars that indeed it is a reality - they do get better with age just like fine wine.  Now as for the fact that I was perhaps a bit overmatched to truly gouge the subtleties of such a fine example I will plead the 5th.

Update ... I'm baaack!

First a note of apology to everyone that has been leaving messages and comments of support during my unexpected time off from the blog. I have just been way to busy with day to day life as well sincerely unmotivated due to some past personal & professional issues. The good news is that so many of you have been just been so encouraging and appreciative for all the posts that I simply can not digress anymore or use any lame excuses, but to get back on track.

Note of caution thought! I do like to share my sincere thoughts and not hold back writing in a certain way, but always while inspired and truly immersed in the topics at hand. From now on in order to catch up as well to frequently post I just might throw some posts/pictures/comments together that might not be as I (and You) have been used to. This will not be a lowering of a certain standard that I behold to maintain, but rather a snippet, instead of the usual essay of the daily topic at hand (including my point of view arguments, observations of daily life, recollections and reflections). Hope you enjoy the ride!