News: United States President elect Barack Obama and his watches

I don't get to political on this blog, but this week historical Presidential elections here in the US captured mine as well the global attention thus they need to be mentioned even if it is just in the context of watches.

The junior United States Senator from Chicago, Illinois Barack Obama made history and is the first African American to be elected as the 44th President of the United States. This besides sweeping away the last racial barrier in American politics electing him with ease in many ways it signifies change and new hope for the citizens of this country as well the US image abroad in these difficult economic times.


So in the words of my President elect "If there is anyone out there who still doubts that America is a place where all things are possible, who still wonders if the dream of our founders is alive in our time, who still questions the power of our democracy, tonight is your answer. It’s been a long time coming, but tonight, because of what we did on this date in this election at this defining moment, change has come to America." All I can say Thank you Mr. President.

So enough of my mumbling about politics I thought it would be appropriate to take a look at the man of the moment from a different aspect and a more personal horological insight in this fantastic article Obama's watches by Jeff Stein. Enjoy!

Watch News: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Survivor Chronograph

Over the last year much has been speculated by AP's ferment ROO aficionados about the final design and name of yet another very much talked about AP Special Edition ROO. Well the time has come and it's finally here! On November 6th the day of the Global Launch (sounds so sinister) all of the AP ROO faithful have gather around the world to be finally introduced to a finished product they debated about for so long.


Overall I find the finishing and many of the design cues to be very interesting and well executed in particular my surprise that I'm for once a fan of the execution of the dial which with ROO's can be IMHO very cluttered and dare I say colorfully confusing. The open worked hands and vertical grooved ceramic bezel are another two aesthetically successful details tying up the whole "sinister" design. I also liked that they successful carried on the wider non-tappered vulcanized rubber style strap first introduced on the Team Ainghi LE.


On the other hand what I don't like is cartoonish elements such as these crown guards, notched "gun barrel" rim of the crown, as well as the ratcheted case edge. Then its the usual complaint of YET another LE ROO (number 69 and counting LOL), yet another PVD'd black watch (I thought only Hublot was the company that still thinks that is something innovative) and of course lets not forget the very lame name. No secret here that I am no fanboy of ROO's altogether but c'mon AP how long can you continue following the same old ROO LE thing.

“Survivor” mission:

- Readability, functionality and high precision, the wearer is liable to find himself confronted with an unknown and hostile environment – overpopulated megalopolis, urban jungle cosmic construction sites, etc.
- High-tech architecture: ultra-light, high-resistance materials that adjust to body temperature.
- Design: ergonomic and sophisticated, genetic markers of the Royal Oak Offshore collection pushed to extremes.
- Mechanical performance: exclusive chronograph movement.

Technical specifications:

Follow this link to see the SURVIVOR MOVIE

High-tech materials:

Blackened titanium plays the starring role. This ultra-light material has been chosen for the case and the surrounding elements: studs, push pieces and guards, crown and oversize strap buckle. The same goes for the medallion back featuring a special non-slip texture.

Titanium also shows up on the lower part of the octagonal bezel, while its upper part opts for ceramics. The latter is distinguished by clearly marked vertical grooves reminiscent of the characteristic satin finish of the Royal Oak Offshore collection.

The strap is made from vulcanized rubber, an indispensable part of the extreme sports universe. Its matte black granular surface accentuates the adventurous camouflage-type look of this chronograph issued in a limited edition of 1000.

Shapes and ergonomics:

Each detail is meticulously designed to ensure a blend of efficiency and lightness. The perforations on the bezel lighten up the structure without compromising its sturdiness. The hollowed push pieces equipped with a security look ensure user-friendly handling. In a similar vein, the generous size and notched rim of the crown, as well as the ratcheted case edge, facilitate getting a quick and sure grip on this exceptional instrument. The conical shape of the push pieces guarantees instant activation of the chronograph function, while the skeleton hands, luminescent hour-markers and silver-colored small seconds counter guarantee optimal readability by day or night. And finally, since nothing is left to chance, a careful observer will note the apertures on the case middle and studs.

The Royal Oak Offshore signature features:

- Strongbox-type case water-resistant to 100 meters, with anti magnetic system designed to protect the mechanism from any hostile element
- Hexagonal socket-head screws echoing the legendary hexagonal screws of the Royal Oak Offshore models
- Exclusive “Mega Tapisserie” guilloché pattern on the dial, matched on this model by the checkered motif on the strap
- Strap perfectly integrated with the case

High-precision instrument

The Royal Oak Offshore Survivor houses the exclusive Audemars Piguet self-winding Calibre 3126/3840, guaranteeing sturdiness, reliability and precision rating:
- up to 60 hours’ power reserve thanks to a mainspring which, by supplying constant force over a longer time-span, ensures enhanced rating accuracy;
- a cross-through balance-cock reinforcing the stability of the movement;
- a balance-stop mechanism serving to immobilize the seconds hand and thus enabling time-setting to the nearest second;
- a variable-inertia balance equipped with eight inertia-blocks enabling precise and stable adjustment;
- fast date correction with an integrated security system avoiding any risk of date disc blockage when the adjustment occurs at midnight;
- bidirectional automatic winding of the mainspring by means of a 22-carat gold rotor mounted on a ball-bearing mechanism;


Technical Specifications
Royal Oak Offshore Survivor Chronograph

Reference
26165IO.OO.A002CA.01
Limited series of 1000

Movement
Calibre: 3126/3840, self winding
Total diameter : 26 mm (11 ½ lignes)
Thickness : 7.16 mm
59 jewels
365 parts
Up to 60-hour power reserve
Cadence of the balance: 21,600 vibrations per hour
Variable-inertia type balance with eight inertia-blocks and a flag balance-spring
Geneva-type mobile balance-spring stud-holder
Three-position winding crown
Finishing: all parts decorated by hand; main plate rhodium-plated, bevelled and stippled; bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif

Case
Strongbox-type case with anti magnetic system, cone-shaped pushpieces, hollowed pushpiece guards, crown, crown guard and studs in blackened titanium
Perforated ceramic bezel
Diameter: 42 mm
Thickness: 1.565 mm
Water resistance: 100 metres
Medallion back in blackened titanium with non-slip motif, titanium zone engraved with the inscription Royal Oak Offshore Survivor – Limited Edition

Dial
Matt black, exclusive “Mega Tapisserie” guilloché motif
Snailed hour circle
Luminescent open worked hour and minute hands
Luminescent applied hour-markers

Strap
Vulcanized rubber with chequered motifs and oversized buckle in blackened titanium

Functions
Hours and minutes
Small seconds
Chronograph with central sweep seconds hand, 30-minute and 12-hour counters
Tachometer scale around the flange
Date

For more real world photos of the watch as well some excellent coverage of the Survivor launch follow the link posted by TZ's Paul Boutros of the AP NY Boutique event

Brand Preview: Favre-Leuba "the brand that made its comeback"

Combining past and future

The company has enjoyed its moments of glory, but like so many other old watchmaking companies , it almost disappeared from the horology collective vernaculars. The luck would have it that with the current Horology Renaissance the brand survived the very worst of times and become active again in the watchword with grand plans coupled with re inventive strategy and vigor.

After several takeovers from 1969 onwards (ranging from Bendome SA to LMVH), the watch company finally regained its independence in 2003. During that period a Spanish financier, Roberto Lopez Haba, bought the firm and established a small yet ever growing enthusiastic team. Since everything had to be started from scratch everything had to be moved level by level with overall management given to young Richmond bred CEO Clement Brunet-Moret. The comprised small team armed with the huge number of historical products works in unison with a network of independent specialist on resurrecting the old brand in a new age of haute horologie. The proposed pieces objective is to go beyond the simple measure of time to offer new innovations and functions with refinement in the execution. Targeting this niche market the stated goal is to produce 2,000 pieces per year with a price range from 10,000 to 30,000.

Last year, in a return to its origins, it launched a new mens collection called Mercury and this year with the new Bathy V2. Inspired by the eclipse of the planet Mercury by Venus in 1737 – the year that the Favre Manufacture was officially registered – this collection marks the return of the brand to the center of the watch stage.

Historical roots of the brand


Even though Abraham Favre laid the foundation stone of the Favre-Leuba building almost three hundred years ago, it was from 1940 to 1970 that the brand made its most important technical advances in the field of watchmaking, at a time when it was producing almost 600,000 watches a year. Many of us will have forgotten that Favre-Leuba created the first twin-barrel movements, like the FL 251 calibre and the extra-thin FL 269.

BIVOUAC - The watch for every summit

In 1934, the young ethnologist, Paul-Emile Victor, made his first trip to Greenland. In 1947, this ecology pioneer founded the French Polar Expeditions and went on to lead 31 missions to the Arctic and Antarctic. From 1962 onwards, one instrument emerged as his indispensable companion: the famous Favre-Leuba Bivouac.

1962 – BIVOUAC


The revolutionary BIVOUAC has been regarded as an essential instrument for mountaineers since its launch in 1962. It is equipped with multiple measurement functions, one of which indicates the altitude and the weather based on barometric pressure. The aneroid barometer is a real mechanical marvel that functions by means of a partial vacuum in a metal capsule, which contracts when the air pressure is high and expands when it is low. These variations are amplified and transmitted to a mechanism which, coupled with an altimeter, displays the information on the dial.

– Rotating bezel with mobile altitude scale
– Barometric scale with red marker at 760 mmHg
– Red altimeter-barometer hand

Housed in a stainless steel case, the movement has really been really put through its paces, on all five continents and in all conditions. History will remember the extremely accurate performance of this legendary watch in the most hostile environments, at least for as long as it remembers the adventures of some very exceptional men who loved the great outdoors. Aside from Paul-Emile Victor’s expeditions to the Antarctic mentioned above, there were Michel Darbellay’s first
solo ascent of the Eiger and Walter Bonatti’s first conquest of the north face of the Matterhorn. At the end of his climb, this mountaineering virtuoso said, “I can only praise the good performance of the Bivouac; a marvel and a friend!”

From ice to ocean depths

Before worrying about rust, watchmakers sought a way to combat dust. It was from research into sealing their timepieces against air-born impurities that the first water-resistant watches were born. But it was thanks to the invention of the screw-down
crown that the first truly waterproof watch was made. Since then, diver’s watches have undergone spectacular progress, aided by their use in submarine combat units.

1966 - BATHY

BIVOUAC on left and BATHY on right

It was with the BATHY that Favre-Leuba created the first depth gauge graduated in metres (50 m) and feet (160 ft). Besides indicating the length of time spent underwater, the BATHY gave divers a direct and accurate reading of their depth. The BATHY still embodies the Favre-Leuba spirit: inventing new precision instruments that unite the art of watchmaking and a passion for sport.

– Water-resistance tested to 10 atm
– Unidirectional rotating bezel with 60 notches for calculating diving time
– Decompression stages indicator
– High-resistance glass
– Fluorescent displays

2007 - MERCURY

The Mercury collection (name cleverly combining two unique events: the official registration of the Favre Manufacture in Le Locle in 1737 and an extremely rare eclipse (it occurs only every 396 years) of the planet Mercury by Venus) illustrates Favre-Leuba’s ongoing commitment to quality and inspiration as well as its dedication to perfection.


It comprises three lines: Mercury Chronograph FL 301, Mercury Big Date FL 302 and Mercury Power Reserve FL 303. Each of the timepieces are fitted with automatic movements (currently ETA models with Dubois Despraz module) with additional manufacture-made modules.


Each model in the collection stands out for its unique design and the very meticulous attention paid to the finishing, a succession of brushed or polished surfaces, hallmarking our watchmakers' obsession with perfection. Also noteworthy is the perfect integration of the system of push buttons with the bridge which harmonize perfectly with the shape of the watch case, thus giving strength, refinement and balance to the Mercury collection timepieces. The exposed screws proudly bear engravings of the celebrated hourglass, the logo of our Maison. The back of the case back depicts the eclipse of 1737, a discreet reference to the origins of Favre-Leuba.


The dial is both refined due to its complexity (it is made up of 27 parts), but also powerful due to the volumes of the guilloché and its indexes. More careful observers will notice the presence of the Greek letter sigma, an ancestral indication that the indexes are in solid gold. The use of solid gold for the hands also attests the attention to detail and to quality.

Notoriety and inventiveness have also been built up at the Maison Favre-Leuba through the development of exclusive watchmaking systems. The Mercury collection now introduces the « Embedded Running Indicator » (ERI) and the « Bidirectional / Crown Locking System » (B/CLS).

The ERI (embedded running indicator) is a continuously rotating disc decorated with the hourglass (the logo of the brand since time immemorial). Partially hidden and giving life to the dial, it reflects the duality of the conjunction between Mercury and Venus in the year when Favre-Leuba was founded, and symbolizes the vitality of the timepiece, its inner life.

The innovative and patented B/CLS (bidirectional / crown locking system) which equips all Mercury models prevents the crown from being manipulated accidentally, possibly resulting in unintended changes of the date or time. There are in fact two crowns on the models equipped with this system: an inner crown, which has first to be turned either way (clockwise or anti-clockwise) to unlock the system before the outer crown can be pulled out to adjust the date or time. A red visual indication on the bridge between the two crowns indicates if the system is unlocked. Another innovation of this system is that the movement can be wound up by hand regardless of the position of the B/CLS system. Furthermore it ensures the timepiece remains waterproof at all times, even when the system is unlocked with the outer crown pulled in its adjustment position. It thus provides optimal protection to the calibre which is therefore never exposed to outside air that could vehicle micro-particles or humidity.

The folding clasp, an exclusive and patented Favre-Leuba system, introduces a new spring and pushers technology. And with two pins the strap has a better hold and therefore greater security when these timepieces are used in a sports environment. The buckle has also been designed to limit to the absolute minimum any direct contact between the skin and metal, with the longer part of the strap passing between the wrist and the buckle, thus making it as comfortable to wear as possible.

Price ranges between 10,000- 20,000 CHF's depending on the selected configuration of the model and the materials.

2008 - BATHY V.2

This year at BeaselWorld 2008 the brand presented the prototypes of the new Bathy V2, more than 40 years after its revolutionary impact on the world of diver’s watches, the legendary Bathy is making a major comeback. The Bathy V.2 is equiped with innovative depth meter which functions by means of pressure on a membrane which is still classified although it is unofficially confirmed to be a beryllium copper.


This membrane contracts under the pressure of the water entering the double back resulting in truly impressive deviation of less than 0.18%. Bathy V.2 will be available in three models with three different membranes with depth meters of 45m,150m and 300 meters respectively. Amongst other features it will be a fully automatic movement encased in a complex grade five titanium 46mm case with rotating bezel with large numerals and easily readable over sized hands all held together by a rubber strap.

Mercury Collection - TECHNICAL DATA:

The FL 301 Chronograph Rose Gold


Movement
Calibre FL 301, chronometer certified COSC
Self-winding mechanical movement,
28,800 vib/h, 55 jewels, 297 components
Power reserve of 44 hours.

Functions
Hours, minutes, date
Chronograph with 45 minutes counter Embedded Running Indicator (ERI).

Case
Rose Gold (18K) Diameter 44 mm
Cambered sapphire glass with extra hard anti-reflection coating
Patented Bidirectional / Crown Locking System (B/CLS)
Screwed in caseback and bezel
Screws with Favre-Leuba logo requesting special tool to be unscrewed
Water-resistant to 100 meters in all conditions even with the crown pulled in adjustment position.

Dial
27 components
Galvanic treatment
Exclusive guilloche
Hands and indexes applied in gold (18K) with superluminova, excepted big second in pfinodal Greek Sigma symbol on the dial indicating that the indexes are in solid gold.

Straps
Rubber strap,
Exclusive and patented folding clasp in Rose Gold (18K) with twin safety lock system

The FL 305 Bathy V.2


Movement
Automatic, exclusive FL 305 calibre,
23 jewels, 28,800 vib/h, 224 components, 44-hour power reserve

Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date.
Depth gauge to 45 meters or 150 feet, decompression-stage indicator, diving-time gauge

Case
Grade 5 titanium, 46 mm
Anti-reflective convex sapphire crystal
Screw-down, engraved double back with membrane depth gauge (metres or feet)
Water-resistant to 300 m

Dial
Galvanic black, engine-turned by Favre-Leuba
Rotating flange and large Arabic numerals
Depth indicator in red, yellow or orange
All elements coated with Superluminova

Bracelet/Strap
Grey rubber with buckle

More detailed photos and information can be found on the Favre-Leuba Website.

SIHH 2008 Preview: Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph Calibres

Montblanc unveiled its first watch movement manufactured entirely in-house at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva.

On Monday, 7 April 2008 Montblanc's announced the presentation of its very first chronograph featuring a movement developed and manufactured entirely in the company's own workshops - The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph.

This watch is the first one ever to feature a movement that has been developed, produced and assembled in Montblanc's own workshops. The two chronograph movements (the MB R100 handwound calibre and the MB R200 automatic) are yet another highlight in a success story going back more than ten years for Montblanc watches: 'We're very proud of the fact that this first movement of our own further justifies our claim to be a provider of traditional European craftsmanship in the mechanical watch sector. And it means we've set up a further milestone in the success story of Montblanc watch manufacture,' explains Lutz Bethge, CEO Montblanc International. It also means that the Montblanc brand not only joins an exclusive circle of classical watch manufacturers by demonstrating its expertise and professionalism in this market segment, but also underpins something the brand embodies in all its product lines: the practice and cultivation of European craftsmanship and an authentic tradition of manufacturing by hand.

Rieussec: a name that writes the history of time
The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher is dedicated to Nicolas Rieussec, who invented the chronograph in 1821: his was a wooden case containing a clock movement that drove two rotating dials on the lid. Above them was a fixed index that left a drop of ink on the rotating dials whenever a button was pushed. For the first time ever, the device made it possible to record the exact times put up by individual horses at racing events. The principle used gave the chronograph its name and comes from the Greek: chronos for time and graphein for write. It seems only logical that the first watch movement to be developed by Montblanc, which has established itself as the world's leading manufacturer of top-quality writing instruments, should be one that 'writes time'. The principle of the rotating dials was the inspiration for the design of the new Montblanc chronograph and gives the watch its unmistakable appearance.

A stopwatch that fuses tradition and innovation
The Montblanc MB R100 calibre is a hand-wound movement with displays for the time of day, the date and a chronograph that combines classical column wheel operation with a modern vertical plate clutch. The chronograph is operated using a pushbutton in the side of the case at 8 o'clock. The time of day is displayed in an off-centre dial that features a 1 to 31 scale for the date indicator within the hour circle. The movement has two barrels, which generate a 72-hour power reserve. The remaining power reserve is shown on a display at the back of the movement, which can be seen through the sapphire glass cover. Alternatively, Montblanc also offers its own automatic movement, the Montblanc MB R200 calibre.


Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph: a watch for connoisseurs in a limited edition
The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph is a piece for connoisseurs that will be available only in limited numbers: 25 watches in platinum 950, 75 in 18 K white gold and 75 in 18 K yellow gold, together with 125 watches in 18 K red gold. In keeping with traditional watchmaking methods the precious metal cases, measuring 43 millimetres in diameter, are cold-moulded and painstakingly finished by hand. A convex sapphire glass with an antireflective coating on both sides covers the dial while a sapphire glass back cover provides a view of the ornately decorated movement and its visible chronograph mechanism and power reserve display. With its unique combination of features, complex precision mechanics and limited availability, the Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph has all the makings of a much sought-after collector's item.

Specifications:

The case measures 43mm X 14.8mm with 22mm lugs. The crystal is sapphire with AR-coating, as is the display back. It is water resistant to 30 meters. It is available in a rose gold version of 125 pieces, with a platinum version of 25 pieces and a white gold version of 75 pieces.

The movement, the in-house Montblanc Caliber MB R100 is hand-wound, with twin barrels and stop balance wheel. It has 286 parts, with 33 jewels, beating at 28,800 bph and with a power reserve of 72 hours. The plates are Rhodium-plated and circular-grained; Bridge are Rhodium-plated with Geneva stripes. The chronograph features a new type of display on 60-second and 30-minute counters using rotating discs and fixed hands, with a power reserve display on the case back. Monopusher operation at 8 o'clock features column wheel control and a vertical disc clutch.

Info via Montblanc press file

SIHH 2008 Preview: Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante

Girard-Perregaux presents a world premiere: the first Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante. A remarkable tribute to the Manufacture's heritage, this timepiece reveals an unprecedented combination of some of the most sophisticated complications.

In around 1880, Constant Girard would develop one of the most effective and most accurate time measurement instruments of its era: a Rattrapante Chronograph with Foudroyante second, housed in a pocket watch. Nine years later, he would pull off another feat: his Tourbillon with three gold Bridges, a prize-winner at the Paris Universal Exhibition. In 2008, Girard-Perregaux is once more making use of these complex mechanisms, taking on a new challenge: combining all these complications in a perfectly proportioned wristwatch.

Only thirty-three connoisseurs will be able to own this uncommon watchmaking combination. Mass production has no place in this exceptional field: some five hundred and seven components are assembled by hand to make up the complete movement housed in the pink gold case, following the stringent rules of a watchmaking art that prizes special achievements.

In presenting this timepiece, Girard-Perregaux is remaining true to its tradition, and is continuing the development of its models with rattrapante and foudroyante second, which are among its most spectacular Haute Horlogerie creations. The rattrapante chronograph can register split times, during sports events for example. In this case it is supplemented by a foudroyante second, which runs in a counter at 9 o'clock: the hand makes a complete turn of its dial in one second, while imperceptibly marking a stop time every sixth of a second.


Lit up by the graceful Tourbillon with gold Bridge, the design of this timepiece is the be-all in elegance. Its host of complications blends into a harmonious dial which takes the expertise of the master-watchmaker, who knows that perfection is concealed in the most delicate details. The fine chronograph and rattrapante hands are superimposed when stopped. The rattrapante function is made especially discreet by the model only having two push-pieces: the one at 2 o'clock controls the rattrapante hand, while the one at 4 o'clock starts, stops and resets the chronograph. To complement the creation, the case lugs ensure a perfect fit on the wrist.

There are other sophistications specific to this movement. Girard-Perregaux improves the chronometric developments by equipping the rattrapante with an isolating device that ensures a constant balance amplitude. The foudroyante second mechanism is also ingeniously designed, to enable it to be combined with a Tourbillon.

Specifications:

Pink gold case

- Diameter: 44 mm
- Height: 17.10 mm
- Sapphire crystal
- See-through case-back secured by 6 screws
- Water resistance: 30 metres

Girard-Perregaux movement GP9973 mechanical with manual winding

- Tourbillon with gold Bridge, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- Calibre: 14 ½ ’’’Height: 9.30 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
- Jewels: 43Power reserve: minimum 96 hours (4 days)
- Tourbillon cage: 69 components, 0.4 grams
- Functions: hour, minute, small second on the Tourbillon, date, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- 507 parts
- Alligator strap with folding buckle

Limited and numbered edition of 33 pieces.

Info via Girard Perregaux press file.

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original various novelties

Glashütte Original Sport Evolution Perpetual Calendar





Glashütte Original Serenade Tourbillon




Glashütte Original Serenade Novelties

Blue


Brown


Ice


Lady Serenade Chronograph

2008 SIHH Preview: JLC Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph

Press file provided by MJLC.

Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph

Extreme design, ceramic case; the technical watch par excellence

Square, masculine, assertive: the Reverso Squadra asserted itself right from its launch as the ultimate in technical watches. It immediately earned its place on men’s wrists thanks to its design and performances. For the first time in its history, a Reverso sports a black ceramic case, a concentrated blend of avant-garde technologies, which naturally frames the traditional double face required to display additional functions. This tour de force combines with prodigious
mechanical complexity to meet the needs of elite sportsmen competing on polo fields the world over: a chronograph with perfectly readable indications to precisely measure the time of each chukka, as well as a large date display. The back is dedicated to an indication that is vital to those whose passion leads them to travel the globe: the world-time function, instantly showing the time in each time zone. Audacious, elegant and sturdy: a watch designed for these
exceptional sportsmen who must be able to rely at all times on an unfailingly reliable timepiece.



Ceramics enters the realm of the Reverso

Undoubtedly only such an exceptional model as the Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields chronograph could justify the entry of ceramics into the Reverso range. Extremely technical, incredibly resistant and ultra-sporty, only such a unique watch could display this extreme design featuring an envelope made up of a swivel case in black ceramics resting on a pink gold or titanium carrier. To achieve this extraordinary aesthetic accomplishment, it was essential to
supersede the constraints generally imposed by the use of ceramics and to develop a machining technology superior to those used thus far. The production of ceramic parts is generally based on injection moulding of two components: the ceramic powder as such, along with a plastic binding agent designed to facilitate agglomeration. The subsequent firing in a kiln serves to weld the ceramic grains and evaporate the binding substance. The mass is then subjected to progressive shrinkages until it reaches the final size. This process is however not impeccable,
since it may lead to the formation of bubbles or porosities liable to spoil the aesthetics of the surface, and above all to weaken the structure as a whole. Moreover, it results in somewhat imprecise geometrical dimensions that are incompatible with the demands of a Jaeger- LeCoultre case.

There was obviously no question of Jaeger-LeCoultre accepting such disadvantages on a watch designed to face up to extreme wearing conditions. Here too, the concept had to be entirely rethought, starting with the composition of ceramic powders. After lengthy research, the Manufacture chose a blend of zirconium oxide and yttrium. In the absence of a binding agent, the two parts are pressed before being heated to 2500 degrees to form solid blocks that are thus extremely homogeneous by nature. Nonetheless, the remarkable hardness of this high-end ceramics requires specific tools to machine it, in the form of grinding-wheels coated with diamond crystals, as well as fine diamond powders to polish it. To make things even more difficult, it is important to remember that the case of the Reverso comprises over 50 parts and is therefore one of the most complex to make due to its swivelling principle. The result of this long and meticulous task is an exceptional degree of hardness equivalent to 1200 Vickers –compared with 600 Vickers for hardened steel. The extremely compact and homogeneous case of the Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph is a state-of-the-art achievement in its own right, endowed with exceptional characteristics that guarantee it amazing resistance to scratches and extremely long-term durability and stability.



An automatic movement by Jaeger-LeCoultre

Specially designed for the Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph, the twin-barrel Calibre 753 appears through the transparent city disc that reveals the oscillating weight of this superb 39-jewel movement beating at a rate of 28,800 vibrations per hour. A mechanical masterpiece, it embodies all the genius of a movement capable of displaying the different indications on each of the faces of the reversible case thanks to a gear transmission system that circumvents the oscillating weight. Its two barrels also guarantee a comfortable 65-hour power
reserve.

100% Squadra design and functions

The exceptional quality of black ceramics has also opened up original prospects for the designers of the Manufacture, who play brilliantly on the powerful contrasts between gold or titanium and the black shade of the case. The superbly treated black dials are lit up by white numerals in the inimitable Reverso style, while certain essential signature features such as the seconds hand or the movement operating indicator appear in red so as to enable instant reading of the important information. On the back, the spectacular world-time function
indicates the entire set of time zones on a transparent disc subdivided into 24 hours and offering a glimpse of the complexity of the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 753. It even features a delicately shaded zone that serves as a day/night indication in order to avoid any confusion in reading world time. The Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph has nonetheless taken the liberty of “replacing” some capitals by the locations of the major polo grounds where aficionados meet up around the world: Palm Beach Florida; Palermo, Argentina;
Ham London in the United Kingdom, Sotogrande in Spain and Dubai in the United Arab Emirates. Clarity, legibility and high technology are the keynotes of this model with a swivel case that continues to turns heads.

In the heat of action, readability is the supreme criterion and the Reverso Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph wins this particular contest by several lengths. Located at 9 and 3 o’clock, the chronograph minute and hour counters also adopt a “squarely” determined attitude, whereas the red seconds hand makes a striking contrast with the black and white elements. The large date at 12 o’clock boasts a crystal-clear display through twin apertures, while the movement running indicator at 6 o’clock provides constant proof that the watch is indeed operating smoothly. Finally, elegance and functionality also combine on the case middle, where the streamlined crown and push pieces in pink gold or titanium accentuate the stylistic power of a case whose unique appearance is further highlighted by the articulated rubber strap with a metal core. This sophisticated wristband is equipped with a steel folding clasp featuring a safety button
device that prevents any accidental opening. As a watch entirely dedicated to speed and precision, it is also water-resistant to 50 meters, another indispensable feature of any self-respecting sports model.

When deciding which material to associate with the high-tech ceramics, devotees of polo and of Jaeger-LeCoultre will have to choose between two aesthetic options to accompany the absolute black of the case: the gentle warmth of pink gold, or the intense grey of titanium for a tone-on-tone contrast. The grade 5 titanium used by the Manufacture is an alloy that also comprises a small proportion of aluminum and vanadium. This material is widely used in aeronautics due to its high level of mechanical resistance, as well as in orthopedic surgery because of its biocompatibility that ensures it is perfectly tolerated inside the human body. Moreover, it is sufficiently hard to enable polishing, contrary to pure titanium. In a perfect high-tech alliance with ceramics, it will prove equally stainless and stable over the long term. And to make an innately difficult choice even tougher, one should also mention that the pink gold edition will be produced in a limited edition of 500.

Playing its role as the Reverso of extremes to the full, the Squadra WWT Polo Fields Chronograph is ultimate in all respects, right down to the smallest details. It successfully manages to remain entirely true to the genetic heritage of the Reverso, which it nonetheless transcends by its exceptional character. More Reverso than ever, it returns 77 years later to the polo fields where its illustrious forerunner was born, while sporting a powerful personality that makes it even more attractive.