Showing posts with label Tourbillion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Tourbillion. Show all posts

Monday, March 5, 2012

Laurent Ferrier - Another vision of the Galet Classic


The flagship model in the Laurent Ferrier collection, the Galet Classic reveals a more contemporary and sophisticated face in an interpretation representing an authentic renewal for this double-hairspring tourbillon that is already much admired by devotees of traditional fine watchmaking.

Its new slate-grey dial is lit up by 11 applied red gold Roman numerals, while the “assegai-shaped” hour and minute hands and baton-type seconds hands are also made of red gold. A hollowed seconds counter appears at 6 o’clock, and the matching dial creates an aesthetically harmonious overall effect. 


The Galet Classic is still driven by the exclusive in-house movement developed, assembled and adjusted by Laurent Ferrier and which forged his reputation as an exceptional watchmaker. This calibre features a tourbillon device based on the principle introduced by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, and complemented for the first time by a double hairspring. The major advantage of this new construction is its ability to keep the balance centred on its axis, while compensating for the effects of gravity and thereby guaranteeing the extreme reliability of the rating system.

Its avant-garde innovative technical construction makes it a superlative chronometer instument, certified by the Besancon Observatory. Its high amplitude combined with manual adjustment of the escapement result in exceptional rating precision of the Tourbillon Double Spiral calibre that boasts a daily variation in rate of less than three seconds! 

The manual finishing of this calibre is truly exceptional, as confirmed by the many interior angles and the various smooth round-polished operations. The bridge of the tourbillon carriage is decorated in the finest watchmaking traditions, and the exquisite finesse of this craftsmanship is revealed only through the sapphire caseback, thereby confirming Laurent Ferrier’s preference for subtlety and discretion.



Technical specifications

Ref. LCF001-R 
  • Movement: Calibre FBN 916.01, mechanical hand-wound, 80-hour power reserve
  • Indications: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
  • Movement diameter: 14’’’ = 31.60 mm 
  • Movement thickness: 5.57 mm 
  • Number of parts: 182 
  • Number of jewels: 23 
  • Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) 
  • Case: 18K 5N red gold 
  • Water resistance: to 30 m
  • Case diameter: 41 mm 
  • Case thickness: 12.50 mm 
  • Dial: 18K gold slate-grey plate, vertical satin-brushed with applied 5N red gold Roman numerals, hollowed small seconds at 6 o’clock 
  • Hands: 18K 5N red gold, “assegai-shaped” for the hours and minutes, baton-type for the seconds 
  • Strap: hand-sewn chestnut brown alligator leather with Alcantara lining 
  • Buckle/clasp: pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp in 5N red gold 

Sunday, March 4, 2012

Rare Jaeger-LeCoultre Antiquorum Auction Results


Last month at the Rare Jaeger-LeCoultre Timepieces Antiquorum’s Auction in Hong Kong some questions were answered with some very interesting results that were posted.


 The Gyrotourbillon One actually hammered at HK $2,420,000 equivalent to US $312,000 (including buyer's premium), while the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 sold for HKD1,820,000 which is equivalent to about $235,000. 

 Last but not least the Reverso a Triptyque sold for HKD2,540,000 which is around US $328,000.


All of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Haute Horology Masterpiece complication Trifecta were auctioned for above the Antiquorum's estimates very much in line with few previous known comparable auction results inclusive of those done in the secondary private market.

I wasn't exactly sure how I felt about breaking up the Limited WG Trio but apparently the market has spoken giving approval to each individual piece as an entity & their respective individual values. This is certainly a welcome good news for JLC high end compilations and especially for their owners/collectors.


On the other hand other notable complication was a piece unique from IWC Destriero Scafusia in platinum which just couldn't meet the $220,000-270,000 estimate which in my opinion says a lot about the actual collectors demand as well valuation for high end pieces from the house of Schaffhausen.



In the other news the two notable Patek Philippe ( first time at auction ref 1526 Perpetual calendar in YG vintage from 1951 as well a vintage ref 1518 first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph from 1946) were both a surprising no sales. On the other had the ref 3939 Tourbillon Minute Repeater in PG Enamel dial originally sold in 2010 and first time offered on the auction went above estimate for HK $3,200,000 about US$513,000. Surprisingly this time the appetite for the highest of haute horology most recent watches prevailed over usual vintage blockbusters.

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

SIHH 2008 Preview: Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante

Girard-Perregaux presents a world premiere: the first Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante. A remarkable tribute to the Manufacture's heritage, this timepiece reveals an unprecedented combination of some of the most sophisticated complications.

In around 1880, Constant Girard would develop one of the most effective and most accurate time measurement instruments of its era: a Rattrapante Chronograph with Foudroyante second, housed in a pocket watch. Nine years later, he would pull off another feat: his Tourbillon with three gold Bridges, a prize-winner at the Paris Universal Exhibition. In 2008, Girard-Perregaux is once more making use of these complex mechanisms, taking on a new challenge: combining all these complications in a perfectly proportioned wristwatch.


Only thirty-three connoisseurs will be able to own this uncommon watchmaking combination. Mass production has no place in this exceptional field: some five hundred and seven components are assembled by hand to make up the complete movement housed in the pink gold case, following the stringent rules of a watchmaking art that prizes special achievements.

In presenting this timepiece, Girard-Perregaux is remaining true to its tradition, and is continuing the development of its models with rattrapante and foudroyante second, which are among its most spectacular Haute Horlogerie creations. The rattrapante chronograph can register split times, during sports events for example. In this case it is supplemented by a foudroyante second, which runs in a counter at 9 o'clock: the hand makes a complete turn of its dial in one second, while imperceptibly marking a stop time every sixth of a second.


Lit up by the graceful Tourbillon with gold Bridge, the design of this timepiece is the be-all in elegance. Its host of complications blends into a harmonious dial which takes the expertise of the master-watchmaker, who knows that perfection is concealed in the most delicate details. The fine chronograph and rattrapante hands are superimposed when stopped. The rattrapante function is made especially discreet by the model only having two push-pieces: the one at 2 o'clock controls the rattrapante hand, while the one at 4 o'clock starts, stops and resets the chronograph. To complement the creation, the case lugs ensure a perfect fit on the wrist.

There are other sophistications specific to this movement. Girard-Perregaux improves the chronometric developments by equipping the rattrapante with an isolating device that ensures a constant balance amplitude. The foudroyante second mechanism is also ingeniously designed, to enable it to be combined with a Tourbillon.

Specifications:

Pink gold case

- Diameter: 44 mm
- Height: 17.10 mm
- Sapphire crystal
- See-through case-back secured by 6 screws
- Water resistance: 30 metres

Girard-Perregaux movement GP9973 mechanical with manual winding

- Tourbillon with gold Bridge, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- Calibre: 14 ½ ’’’Height: 9.30 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
- Jewels: 43Power reserve: minimum 96 hours (4 days)
- Tourbillon cage: 69 components, 0.4 grams
- Functions: hour, minute, small second on the Tourbillon, date, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- 507 parts
- Alligator strap with folding buckle

Limited and numbered edition of 33 pieces.

Info via Girard Perregaux press file.

Thursday, April 3, 2008

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original various novelties

Glashütte Original Sport Evolution Perpetual Calendar





Glashütte Original Serenade Tourbillon




Glashütte Original Serenade Novelties

Blue


Brown


Ice


Lady Serenade Chronograph

Wednesday, April 2, 2008

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Patek Philippe Ref. 5207 Quantieme Perpetual Tourbillon Repetition Minutes

Patek Philippe presents a new grand complication, Ref. 5207, in platinum with a minute repeater, tourbillon and instant perpetual calendar with original windows, for which two patents are pending.


The instant changing of all the date displays is a supplementary complication comprising 212 interacting components. This new exploit took more than five years to develop and is one of the brand’s most complicated wristwatches. Only a few will be produced each year.


Movement is the hand-wound Patek caliber RTO27PSQI, a minute repeater with tourbillon, COSC-certified as a chronometer and with the Geneva Seal mark.

The case, in platinum, measures 41mm. It has a sapphire crystal and sapphire display back (comes also with a solid back).

Specifications:

Movement - Hand-wound, R TO 27 PS QI calibre, minute repeater with tourbillon escapement, COSC-certified, Poinçon de Genève.
Functions - Hours, minutes, small seconds, instant perpetual calendar in windows (day, date, month, leap-year, day/night indicator) and moon phases.
Case - 950 platinum, 41 mm, set with a pure Top Wesselton diamond (0.02ct). Sapphire crystal. Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal backs
Dial - 950 platinum hands and applied hour-markers. Small seconds and moon phases at 6 o’clock.
Bracelet/Strap - Matt chocolate brown, hand-sewn, square-scaled alligator with 950 platinum folding clasp

Info via Patek Phillipe and Swiss Time

Friday, March 28, 2008

2008 SIHH Preview: JLC AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT

Press file provided by MJLC.

AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT the watch with the dual mechanical heritage.

Born from the partnership between Aston Martin and Jaeger-LeCoultre, the AMVOX line has asserted itself within just a few years as the ultimate expression of the imaginary world of these two legends. Loyal to the sporting and elegant nature of the collection, the new AMVOX3 immediately proclaims its membership of the most select fine watchmaking circles. Its round ceramic case is the first ever made in this material by the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux. It houses the automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 988 tourbillon movement, driving two time-zone displays and a date making a larger jump between the 31st and the 1st of each month so as not to obstruct the full view of the tourbillon mechanism.
The extraordinary open worked dial enables one to admire the ruthenium-coated bridges and base plate, as well as the blackened central bridge of the AP/PM indicator. As befits such supreme quality, the AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT will be produced in a limited edition reflecting that of Aston Martin cars, also issued in small series so as to remain a luxury reserved for a privileged few.




Revolutionary form and content

The AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT strikes an undeniably perfect balance between strength and performance. In making its ceramic case, the Grande Maison in the Vallée de Joux opted for a cutting-edge process designed to ensure that the AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT meets the quality criteria expected of an Haute Horlogerie model. A mixture of zirconium and yttrium oxides is heated at high pressure to a temperature of over 2000 degrees so as to combine the two
components into strongly cohesive blocks. To avoid any risk of porosity, the homogeneity of the material is also subjected to radioscopic scrutiny. This material is then ground in order to shape the case. This process is the only way of guaranteeing the correct machining of high-end ceramics and to achieve extremely precise contours of the watch. This final stage calls for the use of special tools coated in diamond crystals as well as diamond powders for polishing. The type of ceramics used by Jaeger-LeCoultre features peerless resistance and stability, for a material that is barely harder than titanium, as well as far lighter and twice as hard as steel.

Just as a sports watch is equipped with an engine on a par with its ambitions, the AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT houses a high-performance movement that enjoys the privilege of incorporating the patented oscillating weight of Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 988C, the movement powering the Master Compressor Extreme LAB. This 21st century automatic movement is distinguished by the presence of a new oscillating weight featuring redesigned geometrical shape and affording a considerable improvement in winding performances. Its weight is 28% lower
than classic rotors, since it is made from an alloy of platinum and iridium, the densest non-toxic physical body currently machinable. The use of avant-garde materials also serves to slim down the construction and achieve a far thinner result. Its arms are made from carbon fibers so as to make them lighter and more rigid. Friction is further reduced by mounting the oscillating weight on tiny ceramic ball-bearings. The design of the parts and the nature of the materials used in making them further enhance their shock-resistance and their durability.

The natural harmonies between fine mechanical engineering and Haute Horlogerie

What would be the point of technical inventions if they were not accompanied by an aesthetic quest capable of nurturing emotions and reams? Likewise, the seductive appeal that Aston Martin cars have for decades exercised on demanding drivers stems from their unique blend of sport and style, of cutting-edge technology and classical design references. Faced with the rough gem represented by the splendid high-tech case with its intense black sheen, Jaeger-LeCoultre designers decided to cultivate the natural harmonies between fine mechanical engineering and Haute Horlogerie, between noble materials and contemporary technologies, by associating ceramics with the classic beauty of 18-carat gold in its most exquisite shade. The black hue of the case, the numerals and the dial echoing the characteristic structure of car radiator grids,
makes a striking contrast with the 18-carat pink gold of the polished crown, the back bezel and the double folding clasp, as well as with the gilded accents of the luminescent broad pointers including a delicately openworked minute hand.

The fascination of complications: tourbillon and dual time zone

Since the AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT is intended for devotees of mechanical engineering, whether dedicated to automobiles or to precision timekeeping, it naturally sought to provide an ample view of the exceptional capacities of its revolutionary mechanism – starting at 6 o’clock, with a clear vision of the fascinating motion of the tourbillon. This brilliant mechanism that emerged during the first golden age of watchmaking two centuries ago has retained the original
operating principle while improving its efficiency by the choice of state-of-the-art materials. Its grade 5 titanium carriage features ruthenium-coated bevelled, drawn and polished edges and weighs no less than 280 mg. The 4N gold-plated upper bridge features a splendid openworked design vividly evoking of the finest hours of automobile sports. The tourbillon is equipped with a variable-inertia balance oscillating at a cadence of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

Imbued with an inimitably British touch of elegance, this newcomer to the realm of sports watches, naturally could not forego the indispensable dual time-zone display, indicated by an additional hour hand and complemented by the ever useful AM/PM indication at 12 o’clock. The main hour hand is adjustable in one-hour backward or forward increments by rotating the crown. Finally, to ensure that the tourbillon is visible at all times, the slender date hand pointing to the monthly calendar inscribed around the inner dial ring, in a classic 270° sweep reminiscent of vintage speedometers, has been “trained” to jump between the 31st and the 1st of each month: an exceptional accomplishment for which patent has been duly registered.

Further revealing the feats achieved by Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 988, the central dial opening affords fascinating glimpses of the ruthenium-coated bridges and baseplate, as well as of the central AM/PM indicator blackened with a PVD coating.

The first AMVOX model with sapphire crystal case-back

And since everyone knows that enthusiasts of fine English cars love to lift up the hood to admire the running of the engine, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s designers have fitted the case of the AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT with a glareproofed sapphire crystal case-back.

Power and elegance

The AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT testifies to a powerful spirit that vividly reflects its dual heritage. It embodies the power, style and performance of sports cars, as well as the technical innovation, reliability and artistic sophistication of a Manufacture uniting over 40 professions under one roof. Its appearance echoes that of the Aston Martin world through its avant-garde movement, its generous black ceramic case measuring 44 mm in diameter – a cutting-edge achievement in its own right – and aesthetic reminders relating to the signature codes of prestige automobiles, such as the driver’s strap in perforated black calfskin with white overstitching and the winged Aston Martin logo appearing at 6 o’clock on the dial and admirably matching the brand’s emblematic J and L capital letters at 12 o’clock. Issued in a limited, numbered series of 300, the AMVOX3 Tourbillon GMT combines admirable strength and elegance, entirely dedicated to the masters of speed and of time.

Friday, September 21, 2007

TEMPUS Independent Watchmaker Report - McGonigle Tourbillon

During my trip to Singapore for TEMPUS I had the pleasure to meet another fresh breath of air in innovative and unique style that John and Stephen McGonigle brothers bring to the connoisseurs of the implacable horology from the school of independent watchmaking.



This was my first time having a sincere pleasure to meet and get to know both work and the person that is Mr. John McGonigle. I wouldn’t be really honest if I wouldn’t say straight out that besides being a truly a dedicated artist in the watchmaking field he is one lovable b@stard an obvious well known joke by now (and I do mean this with all the love and due respect). John over the time of Tempus became a person one would flock to unintentionally, not only due to his charming & realistic persona, but due to his infectious knowledge of watchmaking art especially in the way he would go about conveying. Need I say that some of the best talks we had were late night over cigars and beers.


All photography by Kok Choon Tay

Admittedly I only read about McGonigle brothers work in one article before meeting John in TEMPUS and was floored when I actually had a chance to examine and learn more about their sole model – the magnificent Tourbillon. Without a doubt IMVHO not taking into account the non-lubricated MJLC Extreme Lab this has to be by far the most impressive reinterpretations of this impressive classic complication. After talking to John I realized that very often the simplest ideas that would seem just the right solution on paper in practice sometimes don’t achieve the desired result or effect. This is when a studious and artful genius of watchmaker comes to shine like in example of novel application of cut sapphire crystal for displaying the wonderfully suspended Tourbillon cage.
From the lovely photography of my good friend Kok Chooon one can see the artistry applied in creating this stunning dial, M-shaped Tourbillion suspension arches (is the M for McGonigle or in my vain case for Milan LOL), the intricate hand wound mechanical movement development paired with bespoke finishing and lastly the gorgeous and oh so fitting Celtic font that furnish that unmistakable Irish DNA.





The Tourbillion cage “less is more” approach (dispensing with the regulator, removing weight from either side) grants an effort more efficient regardless of not being an easy thing to accomplish it presents a clean yet more aesthetic visceral appearance.



The distinctive captivating dial is machined out of sapphire crystal with 6 o’clock opening framing the tourbillon cage and at the top displaying the wolf teeth gearing of the mainspring barrel. The other two levels of the dial are not instantly recognizable unless carefully examined or being fortunate to have it convey by John. Under the sapphire dial there is barrel bridge (electro plated either in grey ruthenium or chrome black) which is fashioned in the same shape and provides that pleasing contrast for the dial graphics. The last lowest level is German silver ring with holes drilled for hour indexes completing the look of the dial. This all contributes to functional legibility of the piece as well artistic interpretation that draws the light toward the piece de resistance which is the tourbillon cage.



Another unique aspect are the grained and beveled arrow hands which are either polished or blue steel. The slightly oval case (available either in platinum or red gold) purposely fitted with strong and IMO very masculine lugs further complements the whole design of the piece especially when taking into account the purposefully large crown featuring their Celtic logo.



Undoubtedly the knowledge and extensive work that John performed for the stalwarts of the haute horology industry has certainly endowed him with immense mastery in his field, but it is his ingenious approach to attain his personal watch making objective and to spare no cost be it time, effort or capital. I finally understood what time consuming and painstaking endeavor an artist goes through to achieving his masterwork to see the light of day. At around almost 4 months of meticulous workmanship for each of these wonderful pieces the lucky customers will really get a piece of contemporary horology art signed by the McGonigle(s). Actually due to no outside assembly and the limited production there are no conventional numbering with their pieces instead each watch is dated and signed by one of the watchmaker be it John or Stephen. I am looking forward with trepidation and excitement at hearing what is the next piece in stored for us.

Daily thoughts, musings & interests about anything (mostly horology) that currently makes my soul & grey matter tick.