Monday, April 7, 2008

Superb Video featuring the marvelous JLC Reverso Gyrotourbillon2


Take a look at this amazing video featuring the spectacular Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso GyroTourbillon2 . Simply marvelous and definitely worth spending some time to admire all the precise work put in this creation by the very best of the talented watchmaking team from the Grande Maison.


Again fantastic work by the whole MJLC team both in creation of this masterpiece as well as such suitable promotion vehicle. Bravo!

SIHH 2008 Preview: Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Across Land and Sea, Vacheron Celebrates Travel with Two New Overseas Models

Two years after celebrating the Overseas’ tenth anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has added two new models to this line, which is dedicated to the spirit of travel: the watch Overseas Dual Time, combining useful functions with a diamond setting, and a new pink gold version of the now-famous Overseas Chronograph.

The well-named Overseas is the line for frequent travelers, a line that crosses land and sea, that transcends time-zones. Since their launch in 1996, Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas watches have been faithful companions to international travelers who appreciate technical and aesthetic excellence.

They are also ideal for anyone looking for a time-measuring instrument that reflects their character: dynamic and sporty, elegant and distinguished. Vacheron Constantin’s two exceptional new models - the Overseas Dual Time and the pink gold Overseas Chronograph – are both invitations to travel.


History

Travel and the desire to explore the world has always been part of the Vacheron Constantin spirit. Jacques Vacheron started the trend in 1810, traveling throughout Europe and selling his watches to the rich and powerful. As the manufacture expanded, his journeys became longer and more frequent. François Constantin, who took over in 1819, traveled even further afield, presenting the brand’s masterpieces around the world. About 1930, the brand noticed that a good number of its customers were regularly crossing the seas and oceans on business or for pleasure. Its response was a stainless steel watch for active, enterprising travellers, brought out in 1932.

Since 1973, Vacheron Constantin has established itself as a pioneer of the ultra-functional stainless steel timepieces that the period craved, to such a degree that the Overseas is now one of the most successful watches in its category. It was hardly a surprise when the brand marked its 222nd anniversary in 1977 with the launching of a rather unusual steel watch. Bearing the code name 222, its one-piece case featured a screw-down “porthole” bezel, creating a robust entity designed for intensive use in a hostile environment. Equipped with an integrated bracelet, the watch 222 had highly legible luminous hands and hour-markers and was offered in gold, steel or a combination of both. Thanks to a crown protected by two water-resistant gaskets, the watch 222 was water-resistant to 120 meters. And what was rare for the period, the case was fitted with an anti-magnetic shield.

Contemporary in spirit and absolutely functional, the watch 222 was the first quality watch to be designed for travel and adventure, and can be legitimately viewed as the precursor of the Overseas line.


Functionality and legibility

In 1996, Vacheron Constantin decided to launch a new line of timepieces for travelers: the Overseas. With their clean, naturally elegant lines, these highly technical watches have been one of the most successful in the genre. Dedicated to travel and to today’s explorers, the Overseas models have won many admirers thanks to their classical and dynamic styling, remarkable functionality and excellent legibility.

In 2006, the Overseas’ 10th anniversary was celebrated with the launching of the Dual Time with a second time zone - one of the most useful functions for frequent travelers - as well as a yellow gold chronograph.

2008: two years after the line’s 10th anniversary, the new Overseas Dual Time models are presented in pink or white gold, diamond-set and on white straps.

The model Overseas Dual Time features a date and two other very practical complications: a second time zone and a power reserve. Its 18K 5N pink or white gold case, generous 42-mm diameter and clear-cut, harmonious lines give this timepiece a very strong character.

The white gold bezel, whose design is reminiscent of the manufactures characteristic Maltese cross, creates a soft contrast. Set with precious stones that conform to the most stringent criteria in terms of purity, color and size, it shimmers with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds.

This watch also has a solid caseback stamped with the “Overseas” medallion, a two-masted sailing ship. Thanks to its screw-down crown, this veritable jewel of elegance is water-resistant to a depth of 15 Atm equivalent to approximately 150 meters.


A dial with exceptional finishing and excellent legibility.

A complicated watch in every respect, the Overseas Dual Time is a perfect example of the exceptional technical and aesthetic savoir-faire of the watchmakers and craftsmen at Vacheron Constantin.

The matte white varnished dial, with its luminescent, pink gold leaf-shaped hands, provides perfect legibility for reading the various indications.

The Vacheron Constantin 1222 SC self-winding movement beats at 28,800 vibrations an hour. Besides the central hours, minutes and seconds, the Dual Time features a second time zone on a rhodium-plated opaline sub-dial at 6 o’clock, to which a small day/night hour indicator is attached. This means the wearer will be able to keep track of the time, anywhere in the world.

Harmoniously positioned at 2 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively are a silvered opaline date dial, numbered from 1 to 31, and a rhodium-plated opaline 40-hour power reserve indicator.

Like every Overseas model, the watch Dual Time features an anti-magnetic shield. Researched and developed by Vacheron Constantin, this means that, no matter where the owner is, her timepiece will not be affected by magnetic forces, which influence both the running and accuracy of the watch. A further important addition to this watch’s aesthetic and technical qualities.


New white straps, in alligator leather or rubber

Diamonds sparkle at their brightest when they come together with luminous materials, one of the reasons why Vacheron Constantin decided to deck out the watch Overseas Dual Time with a white vulcarbonised rubber strap.

Delivered with this very trendy strap is the main one, in alligator leather, also in white, and featuring a triple folding clasp in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold.

2008: precious, elegant in any situation, and ideal for long journeys, the emblematic Overseas Chronograph is now presented in pink gold

In response to the success of the first Overseas Chronograph in stainless steel, Vacheron Constantin brought out the same model in yellow gold in 2006 as part of the line’s 10th anniversary celebrations.

To follow up the success of this emblematic model, Vacheron Constantin now presents the self-winding Overseas Chronograph in a new pink gold version.


The sporty, stylish 42-mm case displays all the qualities associated with the collection. With its sleek lines, Maltese-cross-inspired bezel, luminescent hour-markers, screw-down push-pieces, water-resistance to a depth of 15 Atm equivalent to approx.150 meters, and the Overseas’ emblematic two-masted sailing ship motif engraved on the solid caseback, the new pink gold Overseas Chronograph is a worthy descendant of the Vacheron Constantin tradition of distinguished chronographs that look elegant in any situation.

The case has a strong and instantly-recognizable design and its large anthracite dial clearly sets off all the useful functions offered by the Vacheron Constantin 1137 movement, which beats at a rate of 21,600 vibrations/hour.

As well as its classical functions – hours, minutes and seconds - the pink gold Overseas Chronograph features two counters: 30 minutes at 3 o’clock and 12 hours at 9 o’clock. The date is displayed in an oversized window at 12 o’clock.

As the pink gold hands and hour-markers are coated with a white luminescent material, this unpretentious yet sophisticated design provides optimal legibility in any circumstances.

In keeping with all the models in the line, the new pink gold Overseas Chronograph is equipped with an anti-magnetic shield that protects the movement and complex gear-trains from disturbances caused by local magnetic fields. A major advantage that will not go unnoticed by travellers who are constantly on the move.

The new Overseas Chronograph comes with a choice of 3 straps: pink gold, hand-sewn alligator leather, or dark-brown vulcarbonised rubber

Designed along very strict ergonomic lines, the Overseas Chronograph’s pink gold bracelet has an exclusive shape - a succession of half-Maltese-cross links – that gives it a precious and particularly refined look. With its triple folding clasp and double pushpiece locking system, this meticulously polished and satin-finished bracelet is incredibly supple and comfortable.

For sportier travellers, the pink gold Overseas Chronograph is also available on an elegant dark-brown, hand-sewn alligator strap, which is delivered with a second, more casual vulcarbonised rubber strap, also in dark brown.


Specifications:

Reference 47751/000G-9351 and 47751/000R-9351

Movement: 1222 SC, Self-winding mechanical
Anti-magnetic protection
Height of movement 4.90 mm
Diameter of movement 26.60 mm
Jewelling 34 rubies
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour

Indications: Hours, minutes, central seconds
Power reserve
2nd time zone with day / night indicator
Date hand

Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours

Case: 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold
Set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.90 ct)

Water-resistance 15 ATM, equivalent to a depth of 150 meters

Dial: Matte white varnish.
Slate day / night indication
10 applied hour-markers in 18K 5N pink gold with white luminescent strip

Strap: White hand-stitched, square-scaled alligator leather
Delivered with a second strap in white vulcarbonized rubber.

Clasp: 18K white gold or 5N 18K pink gold triple-blade, double-safety folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross


Reference 49150/B01R-9338 and 49150/000R-9338

Movement: 1137, Self-winding mechanic
Anti-magnetic protection
Height of movement 6.60 mm
Diameter of movement 26.20 mm
jeweling 37 rubies
Frequency 21,600 vibrations/hour

Indications: Hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock
Column-wheel chronograph
12-hour and 30-minute counter
Large date at 12 o’clock

Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours

Case: 18K 5N pink gold

Water-resistance 15 ATM, equivalent to a depth of 150 meters

Dial: Anthracite 12 applied 18K 5N pink gold hour-makers in with white luminescent strip

Strap: Polished and satin-finished 18K 5N pink gold or
Hand-stitched, square scaled, dark brown alligator leather
Delivered with a second strap in dark brown vulcarbonized rubber

Clasp: 5N 18K pink gold triple-blade, double-safety folding clasp polished half Maltese cross

SIHH 2008 Preview: Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile Collection Concept

Vacheron Constantin introduces Quai de l’Ile

Personalization, service, security, innovation: Spotlight on tomorrow’s watchmaking

The new Quai de l’Ile line from the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture introduces a unique dimension in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Personalized to meet the client’s wishes, this resolutely contemporary watch combines the most advanced technologies with the finest horological savoir-faire. Innovative, original, contemporary and sophisticated, the Quai de l’Ile line meets the demands of tomorrow’s Haute Horlogerie: personalization, security, service, excellent workmanship and savoir-faire.

With its new Quai de l’Ile line – named after the brand’s historic Geneva address – the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture reveals its pioneering character while drawing on over two and a half centuries of experience.



The case is revolutionary, the dial incorporates a whole range of security-printing technologies, the two self-winding mechanical movements – stamped with the Geneva Hallmark – have been designed and developed at Vacheron Constantin, and the product’s accessories – box, passport, USB key and multimedia elements – break new ground in the world of watchmaking.

Characterized by both technology and tradition, this combination of elements constitutes the unique genetic heritage of Vacheron Constantin’s new Quai de l’Ile line, an innovative and resolutely contemporary line that embodies the notions of service and the special relationship with the customer.

Personalization, the ultimate luxury


Personalization is the ultimate expression of luxury. It is also the elemental link in the relationship between a customer and brand, between expectations and service. It is to strengthen this link and to offer a unique experience to its clientèle that Vacheron Constantin has developed a concept of personalization that is totally new in Haute Horlogerie, a world first in fact. Thanks to the Quai de l’Ile case and its remarkable seven-piece middle, the customer can choose from three metals, two dials & two different finishes on the movements to realize the watch of his dreams. While the cushion shaped case allows for an infinite number of combinations, Vacheron Constantin is offering almost 400 for this year’s launching.

Quai de l’Ile: a name, a history, a symbol

The Quai de l’Ile has been Vacheron Constantin’s historical address in Geneva since the 19th century, ever since Jean-François Constantin (1829-1900) had a building constructed there in 1873-1874. A visionary, he already felt the need to give the manufactory a place which would help it stand out in the world of Geneva’s Haute Horlogerie and give it a more international dimension. This address soon became the symbol of an incomparable quality of service with the creation of personalized Haute Horlogerie timepieces that reflected the brand’s motto, “Do better if possible, which is always possible”.

Dynamic character

Designed in the dynamic of a sophisticated and contemporary line, the instantly identifiable Quai de l’Ile case expresses the tradition behind Vacheron Constantin’s 250+ years of history as well as the line’s resolutely innovative character. The case is cushion-shaped in the spirit of several historical models and its modernity is underscored by its dynamic character, fluid lines and original shapes, all of which give it a subtle balance.


Avant-garde technologies

The Quai de l’Ile’s complex mechanism can be seen through the line’s semi-transparent dials, which are an innovative blend of the world of watchmaking and sophisticated, top-secret technologies of security printing. Art and cutting-edge technology, extreme precision and aesthetic creativity come together in these exclusive and secure dials, which have four patents pending.

The Manufacture’s signature


The new Quai de l’Ile line will be launched with two models: the Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding and the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding. Both movements are stamped with the prestigious Geneva Hallmark. Designed, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, these state-of-the-art movements are coated with rhodium or ruthenium and visible through the dial. As well as indicating the hours, minutes and central seconds, the 2460QH calibre displays the date by means of
a disc, while the 2475SC/1 calibre displays the date, day of the week and power reserve with hands.

Pair of straps

Each Quai de l’Ile model is delivered with two straps: one in black or dark-brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square-scaled alligator leather; the other in dark-brown or black vulcanized rubber, with a refined and elegant design. Both types of strap come with a new triple-folding, double-safety clasp with a half-Maltese-cross flap. Specially designed for the Quai de l’Ile line, this clasp matches
the heart of the case and has a polished (palladium or pink gold) or satined(titanium) finish.

Secure environment

Vacheron Constantin was determined to push to the limits the concept of security that is the hallmark of the Quai de l’Ile line. The innovative product environment is an integral and extended part of the security and inviolability that characterize the dials. A Vacheron Constantin passport offering similar standards of protection and quality as a Swiss passport will accompany every watch in the line for its
lifetime. An innovative box, a USB key and a multimedia tool - all very original elements for a Haute Horlogerie watch - have been designed to correspond in every way to the watch’s contemporary character.

Pushing back the limits

With its sophisticated and contemporary character, the new Quai de l’Ile line (identified by its cushion shape) will develop alongside Vacheron Constantin’s two main pillars, the Malte (tonneau) and the Patrimony (round). It will be distinguished by its sophisticated technologies and its distinctive concept of personalization. The launching of the Quai de l’Ile line represents a milestone in Vacheron Constantin’s history, with the concept of personalization pushing back even further the limits of
exclusiveness that the Geneva-based manufacture has made its own.


Quai de l’Ile - The ultimate luxury of personalization

With its novel concept of personalization, the Quai de l’Ile line has given Haute Horlogerie a new dimension.

Sophisticated, bold and resolutely innovative, this contemporary line has achieved the feat of marrying the most sophisticated technologies to over 250 years of horological savoir-faire. As a result, Vacheron Constantin is determining the shape of tomorrow’s watchmaking.



Transparency and architecture

A watch from the new Quai de l’Ile line makes an immediate impact. Its semi-transparent dial is fascinating, its suspended displays astonishing, its distinguished, modern case appealing and its combination of materials intriguing. The case has been designed and developed in a resolutely avantgarde and architectural dynamic and lies at the heart of the personalization process. With a dial embodying the very latest security-printing technologies and a cushion-shaped case, the designers opted for a theme of transparency and avant-garde design. The technology invested in the case, as well as the vigour and power that emanate from it, will satisfy the most demanding enthusiasts of technical prowess, luxury and exclusiveness.


Almost 400 combinations

The personalization concept at the heart of the Quai de l’Ile line is unique in the world of Haute Horlogerie, a line that is midway between models from the Collection – entirely designed and made in the Manufacture – and the 100% made-to-measure watches from the Atelier Cabinotiers Special Order department. Personalization is based on four elements: the seven-piece case and middle, the dial with the latest security-printing technologies, the movement finishing, and the strap. In total, there are almost 400 combinations from which to create an exceptional timepiece that mirrors the wearer’s personality.

The Quai de l’Ile line will be launched with two models in 2008: the Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding (calibre 2460QH) and the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding (calibre2475SC/1). In the first instance, only the latter will be available in a personalized version in 100 exclusive sales points (Vacheron Constantin boutiques and retailers carefully selected for their quality of service).

First, the personalized watch is envisaged and designed by the future buyer with the aid of an interactive tactile screen developed by Vacheron Constantin and a set of material and color samples. It then enters its production cycle in Geneva and will be delivered within a few weeks, as agreed on beforehand with the client.

Avant-garde design

There is no need to explain to connoisseurs that the Quai de l’Ile cushion case is an avant-garde reinterpretation of a classic watch shape. Like legendary cars that are constantly redesigned to anticipate changes in style, the Quai de l’Ile case is the expression of an avant-garde watch conception, but one which is perfectly faithful to Vacheron Constantin’s stylistic spirit. In their search for fluidity, visually perfect curves, an assertive character and dynamism, the engineers and designers at Vacheron
Constantin explored the limits of these areas and created the case that today symbolizes Vacheron


Constantin’s concept of personalization - Quai de l’Ile

At the heart of personalization: the case

The innovative personalization of the Quai de l’Ile line is made possible by the unique 7-part construction of the case and middle.

Along with the other components of the watch – movement, dial and strap – this extraordinary construction means that Vacheron Constantin can offer almost 400 different combinations for the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding model.


While the middle – one of the components of a case – is normally a single element, Vacheron Constantin’s personalization concept is based on an assembled 7-part case comprising the following elements:

- Lateral flank at 3 o’clock
- Lateral flank at 9 o’clock
- Lugs at 12 o’clock
- Lugs at 6 o’clock
- Inter-lug piece at 12 o’clock
- Inter-lug piece at 6 o’clock
- Support plate

In addition to these 7 parts, the 41 mm case middle includes:

- Titanium inner case for all models
- Bezel
- Back
- Crown


Three groups of components

In its concern to preserve the aesthetic harmony of the whole and not wanting to make an impact with tens of thousands of combinations, though this would be technically possible, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture opted for a carefully planned personalization system. For this reason, it has defined three groups of components:

- Heart of the case (lugs + inter-lug pieces + back)
- Bezel
- Lateral flanks and support plate

The crown can also be personalized, but it has to be made of the material chosen for one of the other three groups.

A choice of three metals in any combination

The Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding can be personalized with a choice of three metals - 5N pink gold, titanium and palladium - for each of the three groups of components, and in any combination. This is the first time Vacheron Constantin has ever used titanium and palladium in one of its standard collections.

Pink gold (Au).

Titanium (Ti).

Palladium (Pd).


Besides the Quai de l’Ile watches that can be personalized in almost 400 combinations, Vacheron Constantin decided to offer a standard Quai de l’Ile line, comprising two models for its launching this year:

- Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding (calibre 2460QH)
- Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding (calibre 2475 SC/1)


Both models will be available in three different versions:

- Middle, back, bezel and crown in palladium – grey dial – rhodium-plated movement
- Middle, back, bezel and crown in pink gold – light dial – rhodium-plated movement
- Middle, back, bezel and crown in titanium – dark dial – ruthenium movement


Quai de l’Ile - At the heart of innovation: the dial

The dials of the Quai de l’Ile line are to watchmaking what the latest security printing techniques for bank notes are to the Gutenberg press. Light years apart!

These semi-transparent dials, which have four patents pending, are safeguards against
counterfeiting, integrating secret texts, micro-printing, security inks and UV markings using invisible ink. While incorporating the very latest advances in technology, they also present a magical visual effect.


For the first time, an Haute Horlogerie brand has joined forces with the world of security printing, that of bank notes and other documents that cannot be forged. Some of the most secret technologies have been used to produce the safest dials ever made, dials with truly innovative graphics that are absolutely faithful to the Vacheron Constantin spirit.

At the crossroads of art and the most sophisticated printing techniques, the spectacular dials of the Quai de l’Ile line are both eye-catching and intriguing.

With strange depths, striking contours, subtle interplays of transparency and opaqueness, alternating visible and invisible elements, precision markings and micro-printing, there is nothing remotely similar with the dial of an ordinary watch.

With the Quai de l’Ile watch, Vacheron Constantin is taking Haute Horlogerie into a new dimension.

Protection against counterfeiting

Orell Füssli Security Printing Ltd, printers of bank notes and Swiss passports, accepted for the first time to put its highly specialized savior-faire at the service of the watch industry. To give a more artistic dimension to this very technical process, Vacheron Constantin called on the services of Mr Roger Pfund, an internationally renowned Swiss designer who, among other things, has produced the graphics for many bank notes, both Swiss and foreign. He has designed the present
Swiss passport.

The Quai de l’Ile dials are remarkable for their technical features as well as their spectacular decorations, which in no way hinder the perfect legibility of the information they display. Other indications and markings are invisible in normal conditions, making these dials the most secure on the market.

This ultra-sophisticated dial, therefore, gives the Quai de l’Ile models complete protection against the scourge of counterfeiting.


Futuristic processes on sapphire

Technically, the Quai de l’Ile dials comprise two main elements:

- A sapphire crystal
- A security polymer

The sapphire crystal is an amalgam of cutting-edge techniques and refined processes, in particular those of:

- Laser engraving (with or without inking)
- Galvanic growth of metal, gold-plated
- Metallization

A sun alludes to the history of Vacheron Constantin


The dials on both models in the new line are illuminated by the sun, also produced by the metallization process. It is inspired by the clock on the Tour de l’Ile in Place Bel-Air, in the Saint-Gervais district of Geneva. At one time, all the watchmakers on the square set their watches and clocks by it.

An allusion to Vacheron Constantin’s past as well as a key security feature of the dial, the invisible ink disc affixed to the back of the security polymer (at the centre of the sun) can only be seen with a UV lamp.

This distinctive sign is also on the passport which comes with each watch.

The three secrets of the security transparent film

Stuck under the sapphire crystal, the security transparent film – the same one used for printing on bank notes – is made from a special chemical compound.

This security transparent film guarantees complete protection against counterfeiting, once it has been subjected to various products and extremely precise operations, like:

- The printing of micro-characters
- The use of security inks
- UV markings using invisible ink

On the movement side, the security transparent film has a pattern of hundreds of Maltese crosses and concentric circles. Depending on the version, it is printed with white or black ink.

On the dial side, the security transparent film has a pattern of concentric lines representing the spiral of time. These also serve as a seconds track. These lines – or rays – are printed alternately with light-grey and sepia ink or with light-grey and white ink.

A choice of two dials (dark or light) for 3 different effects


Three dial finishes are offered on all Quai de l’Ile versions:

- Grey – dark dial with a rhodium-plated movement
- White – light dial with a rhodium-plated movement
- Black – dark dial with a ruthenium movement


2475 SC/1 caliber (Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding)
&
2460 QH caliber (Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding)

Although the Quai de l’Ile line is the expression of a very contemporary language, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture never forgets the legitimacy it has earned in the watch industry from over 250 years of uninterrupted activity.

Accumulated experience and patiently acquired savoir-faire nourish the day-to-day thinking that goes into developing new mechanisms. Designed, developed and produced in-house, the 2475SC/1 and 2460QH calibres, which will power the first models of the Quai de l’Ile line, have grown out of this dynamic.



An exceptional timepiece needs an exceptional movement.

Respecting this principle, as it has for over 250 years, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture decided to equip the first models in its new Quai de l’Ile line with two of the very latest generation of self winding movements, developed and produced by the Manufacture and stamped with the famous Geneva Hallmark, the distinctive and prestigious sign of Haute Horlogerie.

Besides bearing the Geneva Hallmark, both movements are meticulously finished, in the Haute Horlogerie tradition: this includes Côtes de Genève decorations (circular on the dial side, straight on the movement side), chamfered, rhodium-plated bridges, and circular-grained plates.

Choice of finishing with both movements:
- Rhodium (light)
- Ruthenium (dark)

For the 2460QH calibre (Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding): Hours, minutes and central seconds, with an additional plate for the date disc. This date function has a novel feature: it is the disc that moves, not the numbers. The visual effect is of a date that “moves” every day to a different place on the dial.


For the 2475SC/1 calibre (Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding): Hours, minutes and central seconds, with an additional plate displaying the power reserve, date, and day of the week with hands.

These exemplary finishings have a special three-dimensional effect thanks to the unique interplay of transparencies created by the line’s sapphire crystal and by the view it provides into the heart of the mechanical movement.

To provide optimal legibility of the dial’s hour-circle, the two movements have a snailed exterior ring, rhodium - or ruthenium-finished depending on the version.

Finally, a new rotor has been developed – its design inspired by the back of the case - to reflect the spirit of the line. Made in ruthenium-finished 22K gold, it is distinguished by its pure lines, which are enhanced by five embossed fillets.


Quai de l’Ile - Meticulously planned environment

Everything for the Quai de l’Ile line has been meticulously planned. And coherence has been the watchword throughout the whole creative process, from designing the mechanical movements to making the presentation box.

The elements comprising the product environment have been subject to the same innovation, personalization and security criteria as those applied to the creative process of the timepiece itself.


The introduction of the Quai de l’Ile line has been an opportunity for Vacheron Constantin to totally re-think its approach to the product environment and to develop its role as a “citizen’s brand” by constructing solid bridges between the watch, its strong character and the set of elements designed to accompany it throughout its life. It has achieved this by not hesitating, when it is justified, to modernise the traditional characteristics of Haute Horlogerie. In so doing, Vacheron Constantin has
once again showed itself to be an innovator.

The new box has a resolutely contemporary and refined design: an unusual vertical shape, an integrated “display-case” window for admiring the watch at all times, even when it is closed, and a more compact size than a standard box of similar quality.

It has been designed to contain all the accessories that come with the new Quai de l’Ile watch. It holds a small travel pouch, lighter and more practical, that can also hold the watch and its accessories. Its size has been optimized to take up as little room as possible and to ensure that the owner can feel perfectly confident about safely carrying the watch in it.


As well as the watch, the pouch will hold all the Quai de l’Ile line accessories:

- A real passport: unique and dedicated to the watch,
- A USB key: with instructions for use, maintenance tips, technical information, a presentation of the manufacture, its history and its savoir-faire, photos, animated sequences, etc. The instructions for use are only printed in French and English to save on paper,
- Tools: a magnifying glass, a corrector pencil for the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding model, and a microfiber cloth,
- Second strap in alligator leather or rubber.

Info via Vacheron Constantine press file

SIHH 2008 Preview: Officine Panerai

PAM00297 Luminor GMT 44mm
Case: brushed steel
Dial: black dial, bracelet brushed steel with polished surface between the links

PAM00299 Luminor Marina Automatic 44mm
Case: brushed steel case, polished bezel
Dial: black dial, bracelet brushed steel with polished surface between the links

PAM00310 Luminor Chrono 40mm
Case: brushed steel case, polished bezel
Dial: black dial adjustable buckle

PAM00311 Luminor 1950 titanium 8 days
Chrono monopulsante GMT 44mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P2004 - 8 days chrono hand wound
Dial: brown sandwich

PAM00317 Luminor 1950 ceramic 8 days
Chrono monopulsante GMT 44mm
Case: ceramic and bezel
Movement: P2004 - 8 days chrono hand wound
Dial: black sandwich

PAM00306 Luminor 1950 titanium Tourbillon GMT 47mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: dial brown sandwich historic titanium buckle

PAM00315 Radiomir titanium Tourbillon GMT 48mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: brown sandwich with pink gold ring historic titanium buckle

PAM00316 Radiomir platinum Tourbillon GMT 48mm
Case: Platinum bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: black sandwich with pink gold ring radiomir white gold adjustable buckle

Special Editions:


PAM00309 Radiomir 47mm (black dial)
Case: 47mm, brushed titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XXVII (Minerva hand wound)
Dial: Black Sandwich with pink gold ring


PAM00322 Radiomir 47 MM (brown dial)
Case: 47mm, brushed titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XXVII (Minerva hand wound)
Dial: Brown Sandwich with pink gold ring


PAM00026 Luminor Marina Destro 44 MM
Case: 44mm, brushed steel with special hard black coating
Movement: Panerai OP II
Dial: Black sandwich


PAM00308 Luminor Regatta Chronograph 44mm
Case: 44mm, brushed steel
Movement: Panerai OP XXVI, COSC
Dial: Black with Paris Hobnails


PAM00307 Luminor 1950 Pangaea Submersible Depth Gauge 47mmM
Case: 47mm, titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XV, COSC
Dial: Blue

Sunday, April 6, 2008

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Ulysse Nardin Sonata Silicium

Ulysse Nardin’s revolutionary use of materials continues, with the use of silicium in all its new models. The dial, micro-precision components, exclusive spring, oscillator, anchor and escapement, developed in collaboration with ASRH (Swiss Association for Horological Research), are technical features used in the movement and design of this latest model.

With the Sonata Silicium Limited Edition, Ulysse Nardin demonstrates the versatile use of silicium in watch making, including the production of micro precision components for our watch movements and for aesthetic use in the manufacture of watch dials.
The dial of the SONATA SILICIUM is cut out of a silicium wafer in its striking natural color; so too is the logo inlay on the winding rotor visible through the exhibition sapphire back of the case. The movement runs with a 28’800 A/h oscillator and an anchor escapement etched out of silicium. This escapement is the result of a research program which ASRH conducted and in which Ulysse Nardin participated. Both the anchor and escapement wheel are manufactured of silicium. In addition, 3 of the innovations first presented in August 2007 and tested within Ulysse Nardin’s InnoVision program have found their way into a serial product and are applied for the first time in a commercialized timekeeper.

* The front side/back side etched anchor with its integrated safety pin.
* The front side/back side etched roller with its integrated impulse finger.
* The silicium (1.1.1) cut hairspring (patent pending)

The Sonata Silicium is based on the technical movement features of the Sonata Cathedral Dual Time including the novel alarm setting with a countdown indicator and the dual time system with the instant time zone adjuster featured in many Ulysse Nardin watches.

This patented dual time function permits time zone adjustments forward and backward by simply pressing the pushers plus (+) or minus (-) to change the position of the hour hand. The original home time (reference time) stays displayed while the date, the alarm and countdown adjust automatically when a time zone adjustment is made. Available in a limited series of 300 in both 18ct pink and white gold.


Specifications:

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, large date, dual time system with instant time zone adjuster, countdown, cathedral gong alarm.
Case: 18K pink or white gold, 42 mm (limited series of 300 in both pink and white gold). Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and anti-reflective, screw-down sapphire back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial: Silicium; Second time zone; countdown and alarm counters at 6 o’clock, 10.30 and 1.30 respectively; double date window at 4 o’clock.
Bracelet/Strap: Alligator with 18K pink or white gold folding clasp

Info via Ulysse Nardin press kit

Is time running out at Antiquorum?

I already talked about Antiquorum controversies of past and the repeated subsequent coverage yet (un)fortunately this saga continues a new.

Couple of weeks ago Osvaldo Patrizzi, the charming and controversial founder of Antiquorum, has issued a news conference scheduled on 8th April 2008 at the SIHH where he is going to announce the details of his new auction house venture, PATRIZZI & Co. AUCTIONEERS. This new venture in his words will be "innovative in concept" and "revolutionary in approach" and with that this news brief was done.

Initially my response was: "Good for him!". I for one am wishing him success in the new venture especially due to all the controversy hoopla during his exit from the house that he built. No matter what one may think about the man he was instrumental in building Antiquorum to a leading house of horology auctioneers, as well promoting horology education, watch collecting, as well building certain brands to their previous luster. Now that being said, I am welcoming with open arms any added innovative competition which will aid to reign in quite excessive and seemingly constantly increasing fees from these Auction houses. Their unlimited levels of various fees (seller fees, buyers fees, listing fees, appraisal fee, final sale fees, currency and cashing in commission fees, delivery fees, etc) which are simply not the norm with other auction houses in other products. Anyway as a business model it is not really that conductive to increasing business to have your buyers shouldering any additional fees, but hey let's ignore the immense ongoing success of such online model(i.e EBAY.com).

Then a few days ago I read this article Is time running out at Antiquorum? and saw the battle continues. In this article as you can see (for good or bad) more of details of their brake up from both parties are disclosed. All these "testimonials" provide a bit more insight of the discord, which seem even more terminal then anyone previously thought, thus the previous news of Patrizzi new online auctioneer venture comes as no surprise.

I have no doubt that Mr. Osvaldo Patrizzi is primed for success with the right tools of the trade from experience in the business, immense knowledge of vintage markets and watches, charismatic alpha personality and most importantly the heavy industry connections he built up over the last 34+ years.

The main question is does he have the right feel of the pulse of the market (with implied improvements that will bring advantages to both buyers and sellers)? If I was a betting man (and I am) I would be seriously surprised if this new venture would be nothing short of success and Patrizzi will once again be ascending the top podium of horology auctioneers.

Thursday, April 3, 2008

Exclusive - JLC's Tribute to Memovox Polaris: Paris Boutique Launch Party

On April 3rd at the MJLC Paris Boutique there was a preview launch party to the much awaited upcoming 2008 SIHH model the rendition and rebirth of the Polaris.

Already so much has been said about this legendary vintage piece and finally officially announced the tribute to this piece in this press release published last week, yet there was no confirmed photos of the prototypes in the real world. Well the wait is over.

Being that these are not professional photos, but rather real life photos taken to share firsthand this news with all of the worldwide aficionados of JLC and Polaris, please excuse the overall quality and obtrusive lighting. Do note that this are working prototypes which should indicate the final look of the pieces although some minor changes are possible to the final versions. Special thanks goes to my buddy Asi for taking care of business of being the reporter with camera on hand.

Much has been painstakingly taken care of to preserve each detail and nuance of the past in order to pay the respects to the legend with the most accurate tribute.

From the presentation box complete with a certificate of origin and a booklet telling the story of the now legendary watch.



The two models that made the most lasting impact on their era were chosen for the 2008 re-editions, the first corresponds to the original Memovox Polaris, as it was launched in 1965 which will be a LE limited edition of 165 (EDITED: changed from 65) in 950 platinum (which is not shown here, but expect it to be very similar to Paris Boutique Edition).

The second is the most famous model of all, created in 1968, this stainless steel 1968 model comes in a limited edition of 768.


Finally the special Paris Boutique Edition, in order to commemorate the place where the idea of a tribute was born and further developed to its present state, a stainless steel model that comes in a limited edition of 65 pieces.


Compared to their vintage contraparts I think they stack very good and pay a careful notion to featuring almost all of their essential characteristics to most painstaking detail.

1968 model: vintage on left and tribute on right. The main indications on the re-edition of the most famous 1968 model are aged patina style luminescent. This star model is also distinguished by its open worked baton-type hands and its large trapeze-shaped hour-markers.


As with the vintage the large round 42 mm-diameter case with polished finishing and no visible bezel cuts a stunning figure and very comfortably on the wrist.

The alarm time indicator is immediately recognizable by means of a luminescent triangle in the dial center. Controlled by the alarm crown, the central disc turns to line up the triangle with the desired alarm time.


The Paris Boutique SE, 1965 re-edition, has nickel-plated and polished straight hour-markers, Arabic numerals, luminescent rhodium-plated dauphine hands and the Automatic Alarm Calendar inscriptions.



The 1965 models: tribute on left and vintage on right.


Polaris Trio: left vintage 1968, middle Paris Boutique 1965 tribute and right 1968 tribute.


Loyal to the black dial of their predecessors, each replica bears its own signature features as seen on this duo coupling of vintage and tribute pairs.


Some special attention to details true to the original easily visible are:

Synthetic plexi glass forming the original domed shape of the Polaris watch.


The case is equipped with a crown at 3 o’clock, framed by the two distinctive Memovox crowns.


The back of the Memovox Tribute to Polaris models features outer back with 16 round openings, secured to the water resistance back in harmony with the original design. The latter is adorned with an engraving inspired by the original ‘compressor’ diving helmet and a set of technical information.


Also featured with the watch are black leather strap and small ardillion pin buckle.



Again I would love to extend my gratitude to the wonderful Team MJLC and Paris Boutique for recreating the magic of the vintage Polaris with this tribute to joy of JLC and Polaris aficionados worldwide. Special note as well to the always attentive Director Yves Meylan whose willingness to listen and consider the demanding voices of few passionate is the reason this project resulted in such spectacular fashion and ultimately have seen the light of day.

Daily thoughts, musings & interests about anything (mostly horology) that currently makes my soul & grey matter tick.