BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original Senator Sixties Chronograph

The exciting era of the “wild ’60s” was the source of Glashütte Original’s designers’ inspiration in creating the Senator Sixties line. With the Senator Sixties Chronograph the Saxon manufacture now adds another aesthetic model to a line already so crowned by success.


Turning back time is not necessary in the case of the Senator Sixties Chronograph since this timepiece symbolizes the joie de vivre of the ‘60s very clearly for its wearer. The convex shape of the sapphire crystal on the front and likewise domed dial cleverly attract the observer’s eye. Domed, skeletonized hands glide harmoniously across the satin-finished dial, while the diamond-cut hour markers featuring characteristic dots of SuperLumiNova and the extravagant font of the numerals illustrate design typical of these years.

Glashütte Original’s designers positioned the chronograph totalizers at 3 and 9 o’clock on the dial. Polished silver zones allow the counters to integrate beautifully into the entire look of the dial design. The start and stop functions of the stylish chronograph are easily activated by the wearer with the aid of rounded buttons placed on the side of the case.


The shaped sapphire crystal case back first seen on the Senator Sixties models is naturally also present on the Senator Sixties Chronograph. It not only allows a direct view into automatic manufacture Caliber 39-52 with its characteristic elements of Glashütte watchmaking such as a three-quarter plate, swan-neck fine adjustment, Glashütte ribbing, and double sunburst decoration, but also for the first time makes a side view of the rotating oscillating weight crafted in 21-karat gold possible.


The energetic look of the Senator Sixties Chronographen is continued in its finely worked crocodile skin strap, the refined scales of which perfectly complete the retro design of this timepiece. The stainless steel model is available with a choice of a silver-colored or black dial.

Info via Glashütte Original

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original PanoInverse XL

The duplex swan-neck fine adjustment introduced by Glahütte Original in 2002 is the epitome of demanding haute horlogerie and innovative and aesthetic movement design. This technical development originally created especially for manufacture movement Caliber 65 allows for an especially precise adjustment of the movement’s beat and rate. This fine adjustment is positioned upon a balance bridge, which is a component only rarely found in watchmaking.


This design is not only a true highlight in terms of its technical design. This perfectly finished functional element is also a true eye-catcher in a visual sense—which was reason enough for the designers and movement designers at Glashütte Original to help this lavish invention get the attention it deserves on the dial of a watch, out in the open and visible. Thus, the new PanoInverse XL is especially transparent.

At numerous places within the movement, components and subgroups had to be re-worked or even freshly developed in order to make this wonderful timepiece a reality. The most of important of these included a new position for the balance bridge as well as a re-working of the winding subgroup, which resulted in a new design for a corresponding balance braking spring.

Furthermore, a transmission wheel for correcting direction was integrated and the design of the dial freshly conceived. These new elements resulted in the necessity of re-working all three plates and the wheel-pinion subgroups for the movement and power reserve so that they fit the new proportions. Thus, in the end, manually wound Caliber 66 experienced a new development.


The dial of the PanoInverse XL does not cover the full surface as do other models of the Pano line, but is rather executed as a small ring-like variation so that the desired section of the movement remains visible. The off-center arrangement of the hours, minutes, and seconds is positioned against a black background, the contrasting surface of which is shiningly underscored by the rose gold applied elements and Arabic numerals marking 3, 9, and 12 o’clock. Other traditional elements of Glashütte watchmaking such as screw-mounted gold chatons and blued screws charmingly stand out from the silver-colored background. A polished rose gold hand glides across the stylized power reserve display located on the three-quarter plate, offering information on the amount of tension left in the movement’s mainspring.

A clear highlight is without a doubt the uninhibited view of the artfully hand-engraved balance bridge and its duplex swan-neck fine adjustment. The regular oscillation of the balance located underneath the bridge guarantees a charming spectacle of time. This wonderful, artful ensemble lends the PanoInverse XL an incomparable appearance.


This exceptional watch is available in a polished rose or white gold case with a matching Louisiana alligator skin strap in black or brown. The PanoInverse XL is a fascinating timepiece for all lovers of fine watches that can’t get enough of looking at the exceptional design of Glashütte Original’s duplex swan-neck fine adjustment.

Info via Glashuette Original

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original various novelties

Glashütte Original Sport Evolution Perpetual Calendar





Glashütte Original Serenade Tourbillon




Glashütte Original Serenade Novelties

Blue


Brown


Ice


Lady Serenade Chronograph

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: World Time Ref 5131

The World Time, one of Patek Philippe’s emblematic complications, is highly sought-after by collectors, as are the famous and very rare world time models from the 40’s and 50’s. This exclusive model in yellow gold is beautifully decorated with a cloisonné enamel world map on the dial and an engraving on the bezel. The 24 time zones on their respective disks and the day/night indicator are very legible.


Specification:

Movement - Automatic, 240 HU calibre, 33 jewels, 21,600 vib/h. Unidirectional 22K gold mini-rotor, Poinçon de Genève
48-hour power reserve.
Functions - Hours, minutes, world time (local + 24 time zones simultaneously)
Case - 18K yellow gold, diameter 39.50 mm
Sapphire crystal, screw-down sapphire back. Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial - 3 zones: cloisonné enamel and gold centre, disk with black transfer names of cities, 24-disk with day/night indicator
18K yellow gold hands and applied hour-markers
Bracelet/Strap - Chocolate brown, hand-sewn, square-scaled alligator with 18K yellow gold folding clasp

Info via Patek Phillipe and Swiss Time

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Patek Philippe Ref. 5207 Quantieme Perpetual Tourbillon Repetition Minutes

Patek Philippe presents a new grand complication, Ref. 5207, in platinum with a minute repeater, tourbillon and instant perpetual calendar with original windows, for which two patents are pending.


The instant changing of all the date displays is a supplementary complication comprising 212 interacting components. This new exploit took more than five years to develop and is one of the brand’s most complicated wristwatches. Only a few will be produced each year.


Movement is the hand-wound Patek caliber RTO27PSQI, a minute repeater with tourbillon, COSC-certified as a chronometer and with the Geneva Seal mark.

The case, in platinum, measures 41mm. It has a sapphire crystal and sapphire display back (comes also with a solid back).

Specifications:

Movement - Hand-wound, R TO 27 PS QI calibre, minute repeater with tourbillon escapement, COSC-certified, Poinçon de Genève.
Functions - Hours, minutes, small seconds, instant perpetual calendar in windows (day, date, month, leap-year, day/night indicator) and moon phases.
Case - 950 platinum, 41 mm, set with a pure Top Wesselton diamond (0.02ct). Sapphire crystal. Interchangeable solid and sapphire crystal backs
Dial - 950 platinum hands and applied hour-markers. Small seconds and moon phases at 6 o’clock.
Bracelet/Strap - Matt chocolate brown, hand-sewn, square-scaled alligator with 950 platinum folding clasp

Info via Patek Phillipe and Swiss Time

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Rolex new models

The Baselword has commenced and the news from that worldwide heavyweight the Basel behemoth Rolex are coming in. As I mentioned previously in this post Rolex 2008 Baselworld Rumors there were many unconfirmed yet very highly regarded rumors from various legitimate sources about new models coming in before hand. Today we have a very first glimpse of the actual models trickling in. From what I can gather for now we can see that many of this "rumors" were indeed very true and qualified.

First the NEW larger model - The Seadweller Deep Sea.


Larger case (my estimate is like the YachtMaster II but bigger 43mm case), maxi dial, ceramic bezel, 12000ft/3900m depth rating, He escape valve, new adjustable clasp.






Second the New Submariner date - Blue dial and bezel available introduced only (for now that is) in White Gold of course update includes maxi case, dial and new bracelet (very much like the last years GMT Master II in 40mm). Also available in Yellow gold configuration with same updates but in Black dial/bezel combination. As with all Rolex initial introductions the updated models come in precious metals first followed soon (usually a year later) with SS and SS/metal configurations.



Third is the Daytona - now available in 18k Rose Gold or in Rolex parlay Everose gold. No reported modifications although from looking at the pictures available they might be supercased a la Maxi case from GMT Master II and new Sub, but I have serious doubts.


Introduced for the first time in 18K pink gold and in two different color dial combos.




Lastly the New Day Date II - the cases got supersized to a new 41mm case. Available exclusively in all the usual precious metals: 18K yellow, white and everose gold as well Platinum.

Platinum with grey dial

Platinum with glacier blue dial


White Gold


Yellow Gold


Pink Gold aka Everose



Info via Rolex.com, and TZ.com.

SIHH 2008 Preview: Cartier Ballon bleu de Cartier

Cartier opens the watchmaking year at SIHH 2008 with a new version of the Ballon bleu de Cartier, this time with a masculine touch. Still the quintessential dandy watch, Cartier displays its peerless design savvy with the soft curves that typify this model.


Actually, that is an understatement. Present are the usual ball-like shape, the quirky crown (with a blue sapphire cabochon) and winding mechanism and the distorting glass however this time Cartier introduces a leather strap. The Ballon bleu de Cartier watch is round on the top and underneath, but upon closer inspection the shape is somewhat more complex: a watch that seems to fit the wrist weightlessly, as if the two were already acquainted. Cartier plays with the shapes and challenges your mind in the view of aesthetics. Perhaps masculine, perhaps feminine?


The winding mechanism is decorated with a sapphire cabochon, around which the dial orbits, and is more imposing than ever before due to a precious metal protective arch. Pictures cannot fully convey the unusual personality of the watch. Surely, the serious watch lover can pause to admire the audacity of the piece – and the audacity of its owner.


Although Ballon Bleu is available in 3 different sizes (28.5mm, 36.5mm, and 42mm) the last larger size is the one displayed in in pink gold. Available in different metals (WG, RG) as well in SS the automatic watch can also serve up the time – hours, minutes and seconds – in a very peculiar and distinguished way. The new Cartier Ballon Bleu watches range from $4,950 to $46,000, and there is even a limited edition version the sells for $950,000.

Specification:

* 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold case (also available in pink gold and SS).
* Hour, minute, second and date functions.
* 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold fluted crown decorated with a blue sapphire
cabochon.
* Varnished silvered opaline guilloche dial, black Roman numerals, date window at
3 o’clock.
* Blued steel sword-shaped hands.
* Crystal sapphire.
* 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold bracelet (also available in pink gold and
SS).
* 18 carat rhodium-plated white gold safety clasp(also available in pink gold and
SS).
* Cartier calibre 049 automatic movement.
* Water resistant to 30m/100ft.

Info via Cartier, Watch Tribune and Watch Quote.