Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute to Deep Sea Americane

Tribute to Deep Sea Americane

Vintage Tribute to a True Classic!

Laurent Ferrier - Another vision of the Galet Classic

The flagship model in the Laurent Ferrier collection, the Galet Classic reveals a more contemporary and sophisticated face in an interpretation representing an authentic renewal for this double-hairspring tourbillon that is already much admired by devotees of traditional fine watchmaking.

Its new slate-grey dial is lit up by 11 applied red gold Roman numerals, while the “assegai-shaped” hour and minute hands and baton-type seconds hands are also made of red gold. A hollowed seconds counter appears at 6 o’clock, and the matching dial creates an aesthetically harmonious overall effect. 

The Galet Classic is still driven by the exclusive in-house movement developed, assembled and adjusted by Laurent Ferrier and which forged his reputation as an exceptional watchmaker. This calibre features a tourbillon device based on the principle introduced by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1801, and complemented for the first time by a double hairspring. The major advantage of this new construction is its ability to keep the balance centred on its axis, while compensating for the effects of gravity and thereby guaranteeing the extreme reliability of the rating system.

Its avant-garde innovative technical construction makes it a superlative chronometer instument, certified by the Besancon Observatory. Its high amplitude combined with manual adjustment of the escapement result in exceptional rating precision of the Tourbillon Double Spiral calibre that boasts a daily variation in rate of less than three seconds! 

The manual finishing of this calibre is truly exceptional, as confirmed by the many interior angles and the various smooth round-polished operations. The bridge of the tourbillon carriage is decorated in the finest watchmaking traditions, and the exquisite finesse of this craftsmanship is revealed only through the sapphire caseback, thereby confirming Laurent Ferrier’s preference for subtlety and discretion.

Technical specifications

Ref. LCF001-R 

• Movement: Calibre FBN 916.01, mechanical hand-wound, 80-hour power reserve
• Indications: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
• Movement diameter: 14’’’ = 31.60 mm 
• Movement thickness: 5.57 mm 
• Number of parts: 182 
• Number of jewels: 23 
• Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (3 Hz) 
• Case: 18K 5N red gold 
• Water resistance: to 30 m
• Case diameter: 41 mm 
• Case thickness: 12.50 mm 
• Dial: 18K gold slate-grey plate, vertical satin-brushed with applied 5N red gold Roman numerals, hollowed small seconds at 6 o’clock 
• Hands: 18K 5N red gold, “assegai-shaped” for the hours and minutes, baton-type for the seconds 
• Strap: hand-sewn chestnut brown alligator leather with Alcantara lining 
• Buckle/clasp: pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp in 5N red gold 
  

Rare Jaeger-LeCoultre Antiquorum Auction Results

Last month at the Rare Jaeger-LeCoultre Timepieces Antiquorum’s Auction in Hong Kong some questions were answered with some very interesting results that were posted.

 The Gyrotourbillon One actually hammered at HK $2,420,000 equivalent to US $312,000 (including buyer's premium), while the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 sold for HKD1,820,000 which is equivalent to about $235,000. 

 Last but not least the Reverso a Triptyque sold for HKD2,540,000 which is around US $328,000.

All of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Haute Horology Masterpiece complication Trifecta were auctioned for above the Antiquorum's estimates very much in line with few previous known comparable auction results inclusive of those done in the secondary private market.

I wasn't exactly sure how I felt about breaking up the Limited WG Trio but apparently the market has spoken giving approval to each individual piece as an entity & their respective individual values. This is certainly a welcome good news for JLC high end compilations and especially for their owners/collectors.

On the other hand other notable complication was a piece unique from IWC Destriero Scafusia in platinum which just couldn't meet the $220,000-270,000 estimate which in my opinion says a lot about the actual collectors demand as well valuation for high end pieces from the house of Schaffhausen.

In the other news the two notable Patek Philippe ( first time at auction ref 1526 Perpetual calendar in YG vintage from 1951 as well a vintage ref 1518 first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph from 1946) were both a surprising no sales. On the other had the ref 3939 Tourbillon Minute Repeater in PG Enamel dial originally sold in 2010 and first time offered on the auction went above estimate for HK $3,200,000 about US$513,000. Surprisingly this time the appetite for the highest of haute horology most recent watches prevailed over usual vintage blockbusters.

Sub & Cappuccino

Technicolor Tan

Black & White

Mocha Focus & Refocus

Focus

Refocus

more to come ...

Jaeger-LeCoultre Atmos Marqueterie - The Kiss

During the 2012 SIHH Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced another masterpiece Atmos Marqueterie ‘The Kiss’.  A work of art clock which hankers back to life the famous piece of work by Gustav Klimt (limited to10 pieces).

 Way back in 1904, Belgian financer Adolphe Stoclet had commissioned Gustav Klimt to create a piece of art that would build on what his core strength would be; mosaics. Out of that tryst in destiny was born the Kiss, which gave Klimt much of the fame he is now known for. It is also later found, that the artist used 1,200 pieces of wood, each covered individually with gold leaf to create this master piece, especially the marquetry on the exterior. After all these years, it comes alive in this form, where exotic wood varieties such as maple, walnut, Ceylon lemon, pear, madrona burl and ash burl create a cabinet to house this horological masterpiece.

The automatic responsive cabinet open up to show the crystal sapphire covered dial, which is again an example of the Jaeger-LeCoultre brilliance which cleverly hides the very button operating this function.  Speaking of the dial, it features generous use of handcrafted mother of pearl on the main dial, where as the built in moon phase indicator uses gold, diamonds and petrified wooden varieties. The interior lining of the cabinet however, is rhodium and crystal glass.

Speaking of the technicals, there is a Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 582 movement at the center of the watch function. It comprises of 386 handcrafted components, each put together individually. The beating rate for the movement is pegged at 120 vibrations per hour. As for the different functions there is the hour, minutes, 24-hour indicator, month and also the moon phase tracker. As for the official pricing there is none communicated to the public (rumored to be around +$200K) which is very fitting to the limited nature of this masterpiece and the work of art it represents.

Tudor Heritage Big Crown Ref. 79220R

The return of the Big Crown ... even if it's on a Tudor

One of the few (unofficial or sponsored you decide) leaks for the upcoming BaselWorld 2012 comes to us from no other then Tudor.  I could have just chalked this one up to the prevailing trend of other companies digging into their history coffers for ideas to bring yet another Tribute unless I was so excited to see an old friend coming back. (Again kudos to Jaeger-LeCoultre for starting this trend & always doing it the right way but then again I am biased)

So what's the lowdown on this new Tudor Heritage aka Black Bay Ref. 79220R.  The specs reported are as follows: larger 41mm steel case (I'm fine with slight increase), 8mm Big Crown (anything Big Crown is Godly in my book), Gilt dial(looks lovely on the rendering), Snowflake (not at all period correct as they are from 1970's Tudors and God awful style wise) hands, Convex glass (I hope this means its not sapphire cause Plexi is Sexy), automatic mechanical movement, on bracelet or leather strap with folding clasp, additional fabric strap with buckle.  OK so not everything is executed and as period correct to call it a proper Tribute as I would have liked (namely those garish snowflake hands which would be first to go then that red bezel insert which is unknown in vintage world), but all in all from what I see here it looks OK.  Also compared to Rolex recent re-designs of their staple classics I would say I prefer this exercise in revisiting this old vintage friend (faults and all).  

Comparing this Heritage to a true Vintage (as apples to apples) we simply can't do in all seriousness, especially when considering that last years Tudor Heritage Chrono was a very nice modern update of vintage Monte Carlo all while being priced at extremely affordable 3,000 Euro. I am expecting pretty much the same strategy with this Reference 79220R.

The earliest Submariner found in the Tudor family is the Reference 7922. The 7922 is a special watch as it would seem that both the Tudor Ref. 7922 Submariner and the Rolex Ref 6538 Submariner were introduced at the same time and indicate a simultaneous roll-out of the two models side by side. Also note that the Rolex and Tudor serial # ranges of the mid 1950's are almost identical.

The 7922 sports a 8mm Brevet "+" crown as does the Rolex 6538. The dial layout and hands are similar in styling, fonts and shape, to that of the Rolex 6538. Note the 100m dial vs. 200m dials is a difference between them but most likely the dials started out as 100m dials and in the late 1950's the 200m dials were introduced. The bezels are usually fitted as bi-directional bezels with red triangle - similar to the Rolex variation.  The movement is a cal. 390 Tudor movement. Originally produced by Fleurier.

This all brings us to an excuse to point out that they all are closely related to the vintage legend that is Rolex 6538 aka Big Crown. 

Truly a collectors dream piece.  Today one of the most desired, exclusive & highly valued timepieces of Rolex Submariner fame.  The extreme similarity to Rolex 6538 only helped make Tudor 7922 a legend in its own right and soon we will be able to own a small piece of it in Tribute to that Heritage piece the new Tudor 79220R.