Retro'd

Summer is the perfect time to go all King of Cool retro like this vintage cognac leather fatstrap paying hommage to Paul Newman on my good ol' 1967 Submariner combo'd with the Steve McQueen foldable Persol 714. Rock on!

Not every size fits all, but there is a Reverso for all ...

The Jaeger-LeCoultre iconic Reverso has a longstanding history recently celebrating its 80th Anniversary. Starting out as a sports concept of a watch that could survive the hard knocks of the polo game evolving over time to different iritations eventually becaming increasingly known as an art deco classic.
My best advice is to go & try few of them out to see which one fits You the best. I personally went through 4 different Reverso sizes finding my perfect match with the very special Grande Reverso 976 Ceniceros Edition.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute to Deep Sea Americane

Tribute to Deep Sea Americane

Vintage Tribute to a True Classic!

Rare Jaeger-LeCoultre Antiquorum Auction Results

Last month at the Rare Jaeger-LeCoultre Timepieces Antiquorum’s Auction in Hong Kong some questions were answered with some very interesting results that were posted.

 The Gyrotourbillon One actually hammered at HK $2,420,000 equivalent to US $312,000 (including buyer's premium), while the Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 sold for HKD1,820,000 which is equivalent to about $235,000. 

 Last but not least the Reverso a Triptyque sold for HKD2,540,000 which is around US $328,000.

All of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Haute Horology Masterpiece complication Trifecta were auctioned for above the Antiquorum's estimates very much in line with few previous known comparable auction results inclusive of those done in the secondary private market.

I wasn't exactly sure how I felt about breaking up the Limited WG Trio but apparently the market has spoken giving approval to each individual piece as an entity & their respective individual values. This is certainly a welcome good news for JLC high end compilations and especially for their owners/collectors.

On the other hand other notable complication was a piece unique from IWC Destriero Scafusia in platinum which just couldn't meet the $220,000-270,000 estimate which in my opinion says a lot about the actual collectors demand as well valuation for high end pieces from the house of Schaffhausen.

In the other news the two notable Patek Philippe ( first time at auction ref 1526 Perpetual calendar in YG vintage from 1951 as well a vintage ref 1518 first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph from 1946) were both a surprising no sales. On the other had the ref 3939 Tourbillon Minute Repeater in PG Enamel dial originally sold in 2010 and first time offered on the auction went above estimate for HK $3,200,000 about US$513,000. Surprisingly this time the appetite for the highest of haute horology most recent watches prevailed over usual vintage blockbusters.

Sub & Cappuccino

Technicolor Tan

Black & White

Mocha Focus & Refocus

Focus

Refocus

more to come ...

Tudor Heritage Big Crown Ref. 79220R

The return of the Big Crown ... even if it's on a Tudor

One of the few (unofficial or sponsored you decide) leaks for the upcoming BaselWorld 2012 comes to us from no other then Tudor.  I could have just chalked this one up to the prevailing trend of other companies digging into their history coffers for ideas to bring yet another Tribute unless I was so excited to see an old friend coming back. (Again kudos to Jaeger-LeCoultre for starting this trend & always doing it the right way but then again I am biased)

So what's the lowdown on this new Tudor Heritage aka Black Bay Ref. 79220R.  The specs reported are as follows: larger 41mm steel case (I'm fine with slight increase), 8mm Big Crown (anything Big Crown is Godly in my book), Gilt dial(looks lovely on the rendering), Snowflake (not at all period correct as they are from 1970's Tudors and God awful style wise) hands, Convex glass (I hope this means its not sapphire cause Plexi is Sexy), automatic mechanical movement, on bracelet or leather strap with folding clasp, additional fabric strap with buckle.  OK so not everything is executed and as period correct to call it a proper Tribute as I would have liked (namely those garish snowflake hands which would be first to go then that red bezel insert which is unknown in vintage world), but all in all from what I see here it looks OK.  Also compared to Rolex recent re-designs of their staple classics I would say I prefer this exercise in revisiting this old vintage friend (faults and all).  

Comparing this Heritage to a true Vintage (as apples to apples) we simply can't do in all seriousness, especially when considering that last years Tudor Heritage Chrono was a very nice modern update of vintage Monte Carlo all while being priced at extremely affordable 3,000 Euro. I am expecting pretty much the same strategy with this Reference 79220R.

The earliest Submariner found in the Tudor family is the Reference 7922. The 7922 is a special watch as it would seem that both the Tudor Ref. 7922 Submariner and the Rolex Ref 6538 Submariner were introduced at the same time and indicate a simultaneous roll-out of the two models side by side. Also note that the Rolex and Tudor serial # ranges of the mid 1950's are almost identical.

The 7922 sports a 8mm Brevet "+" crown as does the Rolex 6538. The dial layout and hands are similar in styling, fonts and shape, to that of the Rolex 6538. Note the 100m dial vs. 200m dials is a difference between them but most likely the dials started out as 100m dials and in the late 1950's the 200m dials were introduced. The bezels are usually fitted as bi-directional bezels with red triangle - similar to the Rolex variation.  The movement is a cal. 390 Tudor movement. Originally produced by Fleurier.

This all brings us to an excuse to point out that they all are closely related to the vintage legend that is Rolex 6538 aka Big Crown. 

Truly a collectors dream piece.  Today one of the most desired, exclusive & highly valued timepieces of Rolex Submariner fame.  The extreme similarity to Rolex 6538 only helped make Tudor 7922 a legend in its own right and soon we will be able to own a small piece of it in Tribute to that Heritage piece the new Tudor 79220R.       

Vintage Heuer Obsession - well get your fix http://onthedash.com/

What became a chance discovery while scouring the Internets for some vintage Heuer fix I kept coming across this amazing site/forum/blog http://onthedash.com/ & since it has become my go to site for anything related to vintage Heuer. 

An absolute collectors dream for any kind of information & amazing reference on this wonderful vintage gems.  One could only wish we had resources like this for other brands and vintage timepieces.  

Today http://onthedash.com/ is celebrating its 9th Anniversary and I urge you to visit the best vintage Heuer resource in the Internets.   

Rare Jaeger-LeCoultre Timepieces Highlight Antiquorum’s February Hong Kong Sale

Rare Jaeger-LeCoultre Timepieces Highlight Antiquorum’s February Hong Kong Sale

Antiquorum Auctioneers will present its’ auction of “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” to be held on February 26th at The Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Hong Kong.  Collectors will have the opportunity to bid on 452 exceptional modern and vintage timepieces including a collection of extremely rare and highly complicated Jaeger LeCoultre masterpieces and a rare Patek Philippe ref. 3939 in pink gold.  Previews will be held in cities across the globe including Shanghai, Beijing, Singapore as well as Hong Kong.

Amongst the highlights of the sale are three outstanding Jaeger LeCoultre timepieces to be sold individually originally sold as a set named “Hybris Mecanique,” the collection, produced in 2009 will be offered at auction for the first time. The trifecta set clad in 18K White Gold and sold exclusively as a package includes the following:

Gyrotourbillon One, No.02/20. The one that started this all a perpetual calendar bi-retrograde date spherical tourbillon wristwatch with equation of time and leap year calendar. It is accompanied by a fitted box and magnifying glass.
Estimate: HKD 1,900,000 – 2,300,000
 

Gyrotourbillon Two, No. 02/20. This extraordinary Reverso (and still my favorite out of all the Gyro's) contain mesmerising spherical tourbillon and is offered with a fitted box, guarantee certificate, instruction booklet and magnifying glass.
Estimate: HKD 1,400,000 – 1,700,000

Last but not least Reverso ‘Triptyque’ Grand Complication No. 02/20. This used to be the most complicated timepiece made by the Grand Maison with perpetual calendar retrograde date, triple-dial reversible tourbillon wristwatch with equation of time, civil time, sidereal time and sky chart also accompanied by the original fitted box, guarantee certificate, instruction booklet and magnifying glass.   

Don't know exactly how I feel about breaking up this collectors package.  I heard before of some collectors buying the trio and then splitting them up which actually made sense at the time as they only existed before in platinum LE which was sold out by then. Will the values rise or will they level off with additional units produce aftewards as a part of Hybris Mechanica we shall see.  Lastly this is how the Trifecta package looked during the presentation during the 2009 SIHH.

Polaris forever

Three and a half years later still my favorite & most unique alarm complication - never duplicated, always admired staying a classic forever. So glad it was brought back from the depths back into the rightfully earned spotlight. Pretty much the one that started the whole vintage tribute trend these days seen across the horology industry ... more to come.

Ah the très sexy Polaris - 10 months and still a love affair ...

I know I haven't posted in a while, so I thought it would very much appropriate to get back to what has been in my horological sphere lately with proclaiming my ongoing love affair with this perfect baby - still going strong well over 10 months with no sign of quitting ;-)


I especially love it on this custom vintage tanned cognac calf (whose color I have always difficulty describing for some reason) and ever since spring it has been my main go to choice for a daily wearer. Just love the compliment of the vintage look with that color and the way the stitching is perfectly matched to aged tanned look of SuperLuminova - ah the details that make the perfection.


Taking it for my summer vacation where it will be at home in the deep blue of the Adriatic. I will finally switch it back to the very comfortable OEM tropic which is after all the reason this was made for - underwater and very sunny conditions.

Lastly upon my return I decided I will provide you with my one year anniversary review of this very special piece to me.

SIHH 2008 Preview: Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar

Girard-Perregaux revisits the perpetual calendar, incorporating this sophisticated mechanism in the elegant case of a Vintage 1945 Square. Automatically indicating the date, day and month, this timepiece is also the first to be equipped with the all-new Microvar free sprung balance.

With the Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar, the Manufacture has created one of the finest jewels of a collection which has been constantly updated with refinement. Inspired by a rectangular wristwatch created in 1945, Girard-Perregaux has developed this Art Deco derived line, retaining the clean spaces and straight angles, but adopting a square case. The curve of the domed dial and the recessed applique counters play on the depth and spaces.

The attention paid to the details is revealed in all the parts, down to the rounded indices. This timepiece displays the date, day, month and moon phase, automatically taking into account the length of the months and leap years. Its 1461 day (i.e. 4-year) "mechanical memory" takes into consideration the variations in the Gregorian calendar.

This concentrated piece of watchmaking technology requires the combination of hundreds of components, forming a complex architecture. The movement crafted in-house by Girard-Perregaux is visible via the transparent case-back.


The Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar also incorporates an innovation derived from Girard-Perregaux's research in the field of chronometry: the Microvar free sprung balance. This exclusive development by the Manufacture combines a six-screw system and two regulating weights positioned on the rim of the balance, which are used to respectively set the balance of the rim and the rate of the watch. This construction enhances the excellence of the timepiece, fully expressing Girard-Perregaux's know-how.

Specifications:

Pink gold case

Dimensions: 34.20 x 32 mm
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back secured by 4 screws
Water resistance: 30 meters

Girard-Perregaux movement Ref. GP0033Q0

mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 ½ ’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions: hour, minute, perpetual calendar, moon phases indicatorAlligator strap with folding buckle

Also available with a white gold case and/or a black dial.

Info via Girard Perregaux press file.

2008 SIHH Preview: IWC Vintage Collection Jubilee Edition 1868-2008

At this years SIHH IWC will be celebrating 140 years by introducing six “Vintage” series watches as renditions of their past venerable models: the Portuguese, Ingenieur, Pilot’s Watch, Da Vinci, Aquatimer, Portofino. All legends of IWC in their own right they are being reintroduced as modernized new models with careful respect to their vintage roots.



Some are introduced with current series produced models
automatic IWC movements and some with hand-wound pocket watch movements based on the legendary Jones 98-calibre. The evolution of the aesthetic is surely inspired by the original pieces with some updated changes although still very closely mirroring their forefathers. The main distinguishing change in wrist presence and appearance is displayed in increased case sizes over vintage models.



The collection of six watches
is available in stainless steel with a black dial as a regular production and limited numbers in platinum with a silverized dial. First 140 platinum pieces are reserved as a special collectors set of six watches, each collectively numbered, and set in beautiful leather custom case.

Here are the individual pieces specifications from the IWC press file:

Pilot’s Watch Hand-Wound
Ref. IW3254



Features:

Homage to IWC’s first watch specifically for pilots from 1936, with hand-wound pocket watch movement and rotating bezel, platinum model limited to 500 watches

Movement
Caliber 98300
Vibrations 18,000/ h / 2.5 Hz
Jewels: 18
Power reserve: 46 h
Winding: Manual

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel.
Glass: sapphire, convex, anti reflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 6 bar
Diameter: 44mm
Height: 12mm

Weight:
Watch in platinum with black calf leather strap 145 g
Watch in stainless steel with black calf leather strap 89 g


Portuguese Hand-wound:
Ref: IW5445



Features:

Homage to the first IWC Portuguese watch of 1939, hand-wound pocket watch movement, platinum model limited to 500 watches.

Movement
Caliber 98295
Vibrations 18,000/ h / 2.5 Hz
Jewels: 18
Power reserve: 46 h
Winding manual:

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, crossed out, anti reflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 44mm
Height: 10mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 103 g
Watch in stainless steel with black crocodile leather strap 77 g


Ingenieur Automatic
Ref. IW3233



Features:

Homage to the first Ingenieur with automatic movement from 1955, with the 0111-calibre
movement successor with Pellaton winding system, platinum model limited to 500 watches

Movement
Caliber 80111
Vibrations 28,800/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 28
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: automatic

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, crossed out, anti reflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 12 bar
Diameter: 42.5mm
Height: 14.5mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 163 g
Watch in stainless steel with black crocodile leather strap 99 g


Aquatimer Automatic
Ref. IW3231



Features:

Homage to the first IWC diver’s watch, the Aquatimer from 1967, with an inner rotating
bezel and the current 80111-calibre automatic movement with Pellaton winding system,
platinum model limited to 500 watches.

Movement
Caliber 80111
Vibrations 28,800/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 28
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: automatic

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, convex, antireflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 12 bar
Diameter: 44mm
Height: 14.5mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 193 g
Watch in stainless steel with black rubber strap 122 g


DaVinci Automatic
Ref. IW5461



Features:

Homage to the first (electronic) Da Vinci, but with the 80111-calibre automatic movement with Pellaton winding system, platinum model limited to 500 watches.

Movement
Caliber: 80111
Vibrations 28,800/h / 4 Hz
Jewels: 28
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: automatic

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, convex, anti reflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 42mm
Height: 13.5mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 166 g
Watch in stainless steel with black crocodile leather strap 115 g


Portofino Hand-Wound
Ref. IW5448



Features:

Homage to the original Portofino Reference 5251, with pocket watch movement and extremely precise moon phase display, platinum model limited to 500 watches

Movement
Caliber: 98800
Vibrations 18,000/ h / 2.5 Hz
Jewels: 18
Power reserve: 46 h
Winding: manual

Case
Materials: platinum, stainless steel
Glass: sapphire, crossed out, antireflective
Back: sapphire glass
Dial: silver-plated, black
Water-resistant: 3 bar
Diameter: 46mm
Height: 11mm

Weight
Watch in platinum with black crocodile leather strap 121g
Watch in stainless steel with black crocodile leather strap 85 g

Antiquorum's "Rolex Revolution" Auction

Looks like this is going to be another milestone auction for Rolex vintage watches (to be held in on Thursday, 17 April, Antiquorum NY). There is a great preview of what to expect in terms of amazing quality and completeness of pieces that will be offered, spanning the whole history of Rolex, in this link Antiquorum's "Rolex Revolution" Auction from Timezone Rolex Vintage forum by Paul Boutros. There will be also hardcover auction catalog available ($75) as well as a free online PDF file(available here for download - Warning it is HUGE!) which will cover all these pieces in detail which could be a nice reference to own. There are many spectacular and quite rare pristine examples on the auction so even if you can't compete in the auction it would a real pleasure to at least make it to the preview and be able to see them in person. Unfortunately I will not be able to make the auction as I will be returning from my SIHH/Geneva trip, but I guess it's a fair trade off. ;-)



I also consider this to be an important auction that will definitely establish where does the current market for vintage Rolex stand and where will it go from now on. It's no secret to anyone who follows the vintage market that Rolex has been the single continuously overachieving superstar breaking all records in the secondary markets in the last half of this decade. Moreover every time the market was predicted to be overly exuberant or even simply overpriced (with fears of bubble bursting announced monthly and looming continuously in the eyes of collectors) to the bewilderment of all this market insatiable and seemingly limitless demand for quality vintage Rolex is simply unstoppable. I believe that with so many new flush entrants in the vintage Rolex market (especially those with New Money from the oil rich and new market economy superstars from places like far East, Russia, etc.) these prices can be sustained due to the fairly limited supply especially when considering that with the passage of time the relative lack of supply (I even dare say rarity) of top conditioned, complete and proven provenance pieces available. Despite the slowdown in majority of worldwide economies, especially the very real crisis looming in the US with expected slowdown in luxury spending which has detracted many of the "local" US based spending, the added weak dollar has just acted as opposite draw and attracted overseas buyers as more then ample replacements for all the "FX created bargains" to be plucked "overseas".

As with everything Crème de la Crème in life, in this case top prices of fine vintage timepieces, are not only sustainable, but are certain to always demand and receive willing buyers who want nothing but the very best - no matter does the asking price seem, for a lack of a better word, reasonable (at least to most of us mere mortals). IMO this one auction, for us vintage Rolex aficionados, will be the one to watch and closely analyze for future clues to the direction of this crazy thing that makes us tick with so much joy.