Daily thoughts, musings & interests about anything (mostly horology) that currently makes my soul & grey matter tick.
Tuesday, December 4, 2007
Ulysse Nardin new E catalog
Wednesday, November 21, 2007
Another Bullseye by Patek! THE Nautilus 5980/1a
IMO aesthetically I do prefer the annual calendar case shape and that lovely charcoal dial tone yet I find a better harmonization of balanced design with the single subdial Chrono in the Nautilus case.
Another difference I also noticed is how they inverted the color combo on the outer ring of the subdial and the center of the dial is now color matching the rest of the dial all IMHO contributing to the better aesthetics.
The movement is the same column wheel principle chrono in the same level of finishing as its larger sibling.
Same goes for a well fitted and sturdy constructed bracelet that fits almost like a luxurious piece of jewelry.
The Chrono rectangular yet oval shaped pushers are well placed under a 45% angle in both upper/lower right hand corner separated by a protruding crown. The execution is fine and the pushers have a firm yet solid feel once pressed.
The overall height and weight of the piece is slightly larger then a comparable 5712 Nautilus cousin very much akin to difference between Rolex Sub and Sea dweller.
I rather like the way the hands are all in the same style especially the way H/M hands are matching the hour indices.
The one thing I don’t care about is the date and its 3 o’clock positioning yet I certainly understand the need for it in this sporty piece.
Once one gets over the “atypical” Chrono time display it really does make more sense then an ordinary but cluttered 3 or classic 2 subdial chronometry representation. In fact after a week on ones wrist one might conclude it is actually an optimal way to represent & measure the passage of time.
Overall I found 5980 to be a very pleasurable watch for daily wear which certainly is evident by the enormous global demand making it a bonified hard to obtain piece.
Personally I have never been a fan of Nautilus or other related Genta’s designed creations yet find this model to be unexplainably rocking to its own tune.
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Monday, October 8, 2007
Antiquorum Auctions Contraversy Part 2
William George Shuster, Senior Editor - JCK-Jewelers Circular Keystone, 10/2/2007
Osvaldo Patrizzi, founder of Antiquorum, the international fine watch auction house, has filed legal actions against those who took over the company and ousted him and other top officials in early August. Meanwhile, an Antiquorum spokesperson said the company could have a permanent replacement for Patrizzi "within the next few weeks."
"Civil and criminal actions" were filed in the courts of Geneva, Switzerland, site of Antiquorum's headquarters, in August, said Didier Plantin, Patrizzi's lawyer and former legal consultant to Antiquorum, in a JCK interview. Patrizzi's U.S. lawyers were also "instructed to act to ... protect his [Patrizzi's] interests and the company's," he said. There were no court rulings, yet, at press time.
Antiquorum's current management had no comment about the legal actions or Patrizzi's allegations, said spokesperson Karin Tasso.
The legal suits, said Plantin, sought to "prove that any and all allegations or accusations against him [i.e., Patrizzi] and/or the former management of the company are wrong, illegal, irresponsible, and mainly destructive to Antiquorum." One legal question could be whether Antiquorum's new operators have sufficient shares to control the company.
The legal suits followed unexpected top management changes at Antiquorum. On Aug. 2, Patrizzi-who had been chairman and chief executive officer-was ousted by a new board of shareholders. Also leaving were Marc Schumacher, chief operating officer, Michel Cohendet, managing director, Alex Cohendet, financial and administrative director, Plantin, Kathryn Bonanno Patrizzi, his wife and a jewelry consultant, and Patrizzi's daughters; Roberta, then in charge of Antiquorum's Geneva showroom, and Patricia, then overseeing inventory.
Temporarily succeeding Patrizzi in Antiquorum's top posts was John Tsukahara, director of ArtistHouse Holdings, the Japanese conglomerate which bought 50 percent of Antiquorum in 2006. In mid-September, Antiquorum's new board was talking with "a high potential candidate [known] within the international watch collector's community" as a permanent replacement, Tasso told JCK. "We hope to welcome him within a few weeks."
She also said Antiquorum's operational organization and responsibilities were being restructured. The new board "will invest heavily in optimizing our organization, our structures, and our processes, so we can grow," she said. "We'll continue to strengthen our brand and position Antiquorum for further growth. There is a lot of untapped potential waiting to be unleashed."
An Aug. 22 company statement said "irreconcilable opinions" on Antiquorum's strategy and direction caused Patrizzi's departure. Its new board also ordered a forensic audit of Antiquorum's "financial management and governance." That's still unfinished in early October.
Patrizzi in a JCK interview contended his dismissal was because the new board "wanted to take over the control" of Antiquorum, to which he would "in no way" agree. The attempt began, he said, at an informal shareholders meeting in June in New York City, where the new board was allegedly created after he left, and ended Aug. 2 in Geneva, when he and others were dismissed.
Concerning the audit, Patrizzi contended it's based on "a trumped-up accusation" about financial management to "justify the take-over." He said, "We had to give quarterly financial information and had an audit every year, and there weren't any complaints." In the company's 34 years, "never has even one penny ever been missing."
Patrizzi wouldn't discuss Antiquorum events and projects, but is "very disappointed" about TimeZone.com, the world's largest English language Web site, which Antiquorum, under Patrizzi, bought early this year. His intent, he said then, was to make it "the most complete horology site on the Web" for watch enthusiasts, with access to Antiquorum's database of 30,000 horological items and pictures. Now, he feels it's becoming "just a marketing tool for Antiquorum."
Of his own future, Patrizzi, 62, said he's "still full of ideas and projects. I'm a person who needs to dream, and must try to realize my dreams."
Patrizzi started Antiquorum in 1974 and built it into the world's leading auction house for fine watches and a leading source for watch collectors, setting many world records. It was the first (in the early 1980s) to take watch auctions online (including bidding), and it's known for beautiful watch catalogs and record-setting thematic auctions. Antiquorum has offices in 10 cities serving 13 countries, including New York, London, Moscow, Paris, Munich, Shanghai, and Tokyo.
Sunday, September 23, 2007
My thoughts on Antiquorum Only Watch Auction Results
Granted the star of the show Patek’s one off Nautilus 5712 was expected to reach the sky not only owing to the uniqueness of it being a sole titanium model ever made, but as well due to the current inordinate Nautilus/Patek model demand (with the aspect to current certain geographical supply shortages). Considering the Pateks ever present ultimate luxury timepiece cache, adding the exclusivity of such piece unique and Voilà we have a creation of worldwide appeal to many present bidders all resulting in an instant collector blockbuster. The price achieved (almost 600K Euro with fees) was indeed impressive, yet a bit shocking how steep especially when compared to some other rather underwhelming prices that were achieved for some quite outstanding pieces. Perfect example of such is GP’s ww.tc Perpetual Calendar Financial which was a steal and certainly a great bargain for the lucky bidder. I know that GP doesn’t have the same marketing clout of some of the big names in horology, but to score an outstanding one off complication timepiece for probably less then you could get similar regular series model from a retailer does seem shocking to me. Same can be said for the Frédérique Constant’s ”Heart Beat Zerodur”. I mean where else can one get for around 10K Euro a pink gold piece unique with moon-phase indicator containing innovative Zerodur balance and Silicium escape wheel. Even the next highest priced DeWitt and Jean-Michel Wilmotte “Incognito” creation and Richard Mille/Philippe Starck model make sense owing to their relative unique pairings that most likely will never be repeated or be close to compare to anything similar from the creators regular line up. As great as that might be then I notice the really fantastic Vacheron Constantine Malte Tourbillon featuring a carriage bridge in platinum (a first for VC) for almost 3rd of that price – a relative bargain of 130K. OK so I can understand the appeal of some special collaboration, but to have such disparity present here I am left here really puzzled. Especially when I see the 50K higher price for that IMO horrid Frank Muller Crazy Something creation – I mean aren’t we over this hoopla at this point. Then just when I was feeling a bit better I noticed a figging “pink quartzy” Swatch and the always horrible abomination from Zenith to make me think WTF is wrong with some of this bidding people? In the end after reviewing all I do calm down realizing that most watches realize 1.5 to 2.5 times their relative value for comparable series watches which makes a perfect sense at this point.
In the end I am smiling because the total of 2.7 million Euro raised is for medical Research on Duchene Muscular Dystrophy leaving me and my insignificant thoughts all flailing in the dust of big picture insignificance.
Friday, September 21, 2007
Antiquorum Monaco Only Watch Auction Results
September 20, Monaco Yacht Show.
In the presence of H.S.H. Prince Albert II of Monaco, the Only Watch
07 charity auction of 35 unique timepieces, first in series or prototypes
raised the exceptional sum of € 2,756,500/ USD 3'878'946,/ CHF
4'553'186. All proceeds from this sale, organized by Antiquorum,
will help fund important medical Research on Duchene Muscular
Dystrophy.
Luc Pettavino, President of the Monaco Yacht Show and founder of
the Monegasque Association against Muscular Dystrophy said:
” Sometimes talent comes from really wanting something. Only
Watch has proven this to be true. Everyone who was involved in Only
Watch 07 wanted to be a part of its unique energy and excitement.
In this “second edition” of Only Watch, creativity, celebration,
generosity and professionalism all joined together in an outstanding
charity event that will benefit international research into Duchene
Muscular Dystrophy.
The 2.7 million euros earned will allow the Association Monégasque
contre les Myopathies to continue to support ongoing research programs
and to encourage new ones. Thanks to Only Watch, each new day brings
us closer to finding a therapeutic treatment to relieve the suffering
of children who have Duchene Muscular Dystrophy.
From the bottom of my heart, I would like to thank: HSH Prince Albert
II, who has sponsored and supported this event with great compassion;
the watchmaking brands; the auction house Antiquorum; the Monaco
Yacht Show; and all our partners.
Only Watch has become a yearly engagement in the world of charity
and Haute Horology. It is familiar and eagerly awaited by collectors
the world over, and it is immensely beneficial. Therefore, it is
with great pleasure that all the participants in Only Watch
07 join me in inviting you to attend the third Only Watch event,
to be held in September 2009: ONLY WATCH 09 - season III."
More than 300 people attended the auction, including
personalities such as Philippe Starck and Formula One driver Felipe
Massa. Fierce bidding in the room competing with hundreds of bidders
from all over the world via the Internet and over the telephone. This
is the largest sum ever achieved by a charity event in Monaco.
Here the lots in alphabetical order (please click on the image for high definition picture):
Lot 1
Audemars Piguet ” Royal Oak
Offshore Volcano”, first in series.
A very fine, self-winding, stainless steel gentleman’s wristwatch with
approximately 60-hour power reserve chronograph, 30 minute and 12 hour registers,
date and tachometer.
Sold:
40,000 EUR
Lot 2
Blancpain “Ultra-Thin” Pièce
Unique.
A very fine and exceptional 18k yellow gold keyless dress watch with ultra-thin
(1.9mm) mechanical movement and approximately 40-hours power reserve.
Sold:
70,000 EUR
Lot 3
Breguet ”Chronograph Classique
A Rattrapante” No.
1 of a limited edition of 7 pieces.
A very fine and important, 18k yellow gold gentleman’s wristwatch
with split-seconds chronograph, 30-minute register, tachometer and
enamel dial.
Sold:
90,000 EUR
Lot 4
Chopard “L.U.C. Chrono One Prototype” Fleurier
et Genève,
Prototype No. 1 of 2.
An exceptionally rare and interesting self-winding 18k white gold gentleman’s
wristwatch with approximately 60-hour power reserve fly-back chronograph, 30-minute
and 12-hour registers, date and a partially skeletonized dial.
Sold:
32,000 EUR
Lot 5
Corum Admiral's Cup Challenge 44 Regatta,
number 1 in a special edition
A very fine and important 18k pink gold self-winding gentleman’s wristwatch
with approximately 42-hour power reserve, reserve split-seconds chronograph,
30-minute and 12-hour registers, date and an 18k pink gold, and rubber bracelet.
Sold:
22,000 EUR
Lot 6
Daniel Roth “Tourbillon
Date Retrograde Double Face” Pièce
Unique.
A very fine 18k pink gold double-dialled gentleman’s wristwatch
with one-minute tourbillon regulator, retrograde date, 64-hour power
reserve indicator and 18k pink gold dial.
Sold:
42,000 EUR
Lot 7
De Bethune “Time-Zone No.00”Pièce
Unique.
A very fine and important titanium and platinum gentleman’s
wristwatch with differential winding - sport and statics, 6-days
power-reserve indication and triple anti-shock system.
Sold:
45,000 EUR
Lot 8
deLaCour ”Saqra Weekend Graphite”Pièce
Unique.
A very fine and interesting graphite and 18k pink gold self-winding
gentleman’s
wristwatch with day, date and 40-hour power-reserve indication.
Sold:
14,000 EUR
Lot 9
DeWitt and Jean-Michel
Wilmotte. “Incognito 2008” One-of-a-kind model.
Time and Creation, united in the shared vision of Jean-Michel Wilmotte for the
design and DeWitt for the horological substance. One-minute flying tourbillion
regulator and 21-day power-reserve. To be unveiled in January 2008.
Sold:
400,000 EUR
Lot 10
Eterna “Madison” No.1
in a limited edition of 75 pieces.
A fine and special 18k pink gold centre seconds gentleman’s
wristwatch with deployant clasp.
Sold:
9,000 EUR
Lot 11
Franck Muller, “Totally Crazy
Monaco”,
Pièce Unique.
A very fine and amusing 18k white gold self-winding wristwatch with
random jumping hours, date and the Monegasque coat of arms on the dial.
Sold:
180,000 EUR
Lot 12
Frédérique Constant ”Heart
Beat Zerodur”, Pièce Unique.
A fine and important 18k pink gold astronomic gentleman’s
wristwatch with date, moon-phase indicator, innovative Zerodur
balance and Silicium escape wheel.
Sold:
11,000 EUR
Lot 13
Gerald Charles “Gérald Genta celebrates César” Pièce
Unique.
Very fine and interesting 18k white, pink and yellow gold “Compression
de Cesar” self-winding gentleman’s wristwatch with sliding-hours.
Sold:
40,000 EUR
Lot 14
Girard-Perregaux “World Time-Perpetual
Calendar-Financial”, Pièce Unique.
A very fine 18k pink gold astronomic gentleman’s wristwatch with
Perpetual calendar world-time with 24 global locations, “trading-time” indication
for the major markets in the world and moon phase.
Sold:
17,000 EUR
Lot 15
Glashütte Original, “Prince’s
Palace of Monaco”,
Pièce Unique.
An exceptional 18k rose gold self-winding gentleman’s wristwatch
with a Meissen porcelain dial with a polychrome depiction of the ““Prince’s
Palace of Monaco”.
Sold:
30,000 EUR
Lot 16
Harry Winston “Avenue Exotic Birds - Set n°1
of a limited edition of 5”
A very fine set of four 18k white gold gem-set lady’s wristwatches
with gem set cloisonné enamel dials; this new mini-collection
is a fresh artistic and romantic interpretation of the Exotic Birds
theme.
Sold:
80,000 EUR
Lot 17
Hublot ”Big Bang Only Watch” Pièce
Unique.
A very fine, oversized black ceramic and titanium gentleman’s
wristwatch with chronograph, 30-min and 12-hour registers and date.
Sold:
28,000 EUR
Lot 18
Instrument et Mesures
de Temps “Instrument de mesure de
Régularité”, Genève, Pièce Unique.
A very fine and important 18k pink gold gentleman’s wristwatch
with split-seconds chronograph 30-minute and 12 hour registers, date
and a triple pointer chronograph with different coloured hands corresponding
to 3 timing scales.
Sold:
26,000 EUR
Lot 19
International Watch Co. Schaffhausen “Fliegeruhr
5026, Perpetual Calendar” Pièce
Unique.
Very fine stainless steel astronomic gentleman’s wristwatch
with secular perpetual calendar and phases of the moon.
Sold:
80,000 EUR
Lot 20
Jaeger-LeCoultre“Joaillerie 101 Etrier”, Pièce
Unique.
An exceptionally fine18k white gold diamond and pink sapphire set
lady”s
back wound wristwatch.
Sold:
28,000 EUR
Lot 21
Jaquet Droz“Les
Douze Villes Monaco”,
Pièce unique.
An exceptional oversized 18k white
gold world-time wristwatch with jump-hour and time correction for
12 cities
Sold:
32,000 EUR
Lot 22
Louis Vuitton “Tambour
18 Mandarine Watch”, Pièce Unique.
Very fine and important 18k yellow gold diamond set lady’s
wristwatch with diamond set orange mother-of-pearl dial. Accompanied
by a Louis Vuitton “Mini-Trunk” designed in collaboration
with Paul Pettavino. 11 years old.
Sold:
66,000 EUR
Lot 23
Mauboussin “Oryx
Tourbillon”, No.1 in a special edition.
A very important 18k white gold gentleman’s skeletonized
wristwatch with visible one-minute tourbillon regulator.
Sold:
130,000 EUR
Lot 24
Omega “De Ville Hour Vision, Only
Watch”, Pièce Unique.
A very fine 18k red gold gentleman’s wristwatch
with two barrels and co-axel escapement, the case with sapphire crystal
body to view the movement.
Sold:
25,000 EUR
Lot 25
Officine Panerai ”RADIOMIR 10 Days GMT PINK GOLD” Pièce
Unique.
A very fine and important, gentleman’s
wristwatch with 10-day power reserve indicator, 24-hour dial and
day, night indication with special blue dial.
Sold:
44,000 EUR
Lot 26
Patek Philippe, Ref 5712T “Nautilus Titanium”, Genève,
Pièce Unique.
Watch made of titanium incorporating the automatic Calibre 240 with
hour & minute indicator, seconds' between 4 and 5 o'clock, power
reserve, date and moon phase display. This Nautilus Titanium is water-resistant
to 60 meters and features a two-colour dial with a horizontally embossed
pattern, a composite material strap, and a safety fold-over clasp in
titanium.
Sold:
525,000 EUR
Lot 27
Piaget, “Altiplano, Prince Albert
II” Pièce Unique.
A very fine 18k white gold diamond-set gentleman’s wristwatch
with diamond-set dial replicating the fingerprint of H.S.H Prince Albert
II of Monaco.
Sold:
38,000 EUR
Lot 28
Pierre Kunz, “Chrono Sport Monaco” Genève,
Pièce Unique.
A very fine and important stainless steel gentleman’s wristwatch
with chronograph, skeletonized retrograde 30-minute and 12-hour registers,
day/night indication and red “Texalium” dial.
Sold:
12,000 EUR
Lot 29
Richard Mille and Philippe
Starck “An
integral interpretation in titanium”, Piéce
Unique.
A very fine skeletonized Titanium self-winding gentleman’s
wristwatch with fly-back chronograph, annual calendar, oversize
date, month, 12-hour register, 60-minute countdown time and approximately
55-hour power reserve (without chronograph running).
Sold:
320,000 EUR
Lot 30
Rodolphe ”Instinct
Chrono 180° Only Watch”,
Pièce Unique, Unique Inscription and Unique Dial.
An unusual PVD coated gentleman’s wristwatch with two movements,
one for the chronograph with constant seconds, date, 30-minute and
12-hour recorders and the other for the time functions.
Sold:
7,000 EUR
Lot 31
Swatch, “Pearly Pink”, Piece Unique.
A
stylish pink crystal set steel lady’s
quartz wristwatch.
Sold:
4,500 EUR
Lot 32
Ulysse Nardin“Maxi Marine Diver
Only Watch 2007 Set”, unique Set.
A very fine stainless steel and white gold gentleman’s wristwatch
with date and power-reserve indicator (approximately 42-hours). Accompanied
by a barometer and a copy of the book “Making of a Masterpiece”.
Sold:
24,000 EUR
Lot 33
Vacheron Constantin, “Malte Tourbillon Platinum” Pièce
Unique.
An exceptionally rare gentleman's platinum tourbillon regulator tonneau-shaped
wristwatch with date and 40-hour power reserve indicator. Also featuring
a carriage bridge in platinum (a first for Vacheron Constantin). The
case, dial, strap stitching and buckle are equally in platinum.
Sold:
130,000 EUR
Lot 34
Van Cleef & Arpels “Lady Arpels Féerie”,
Pièce Unique
A very fine 18k white gold diamond-set (D-E-F) lady’s wristwatch
with a purple guilloché dial. The delicate white gold and
diamonds fairy indicates the time thanks to an hour and minute retrograde
mechanical movement.
Sold:
70,000 EUR
Lot 35
Zenith “Defy Extreme Stealth 1000m Only Watch 2007”, Pièce
Unique.
A very fine titanium divers wristwatch with revolving graduated bezel,
chronograph, 30-minute register, central power reserve indicator and
partially skeletonized dial.
Sold:
45,000 EUR
Antiquorum is, unquestionably, the world’s leading
watch auctioneer; Of the 62 watches ever sold publicly by major auction
houses above SFR. 1,000,000, Antiquorum claims an impressive 44 .
In 2002, Antiquorum established the all-time world record price for
a wristwatch at auction when it sold a platinum Patek Phililppe World
Time Ref. 1415 from 1939 for an astounding CHF 6,603,500 (US$ 4,026,524).
This record-breaking price more than doubled the previous world record
price for a wrist watch at auction. Another record price for a modern
watch was achieved in 2004, the unique white gold Calibre 89, also
by Patek Philipe, was sold for SFr. 6,603,500 (US$ 5,002,652).
Info by Antiquorum
TEMPUS Manufacture Jaeger LeCoultre - Master Class Workshop
During TEMPUS one of the workshops offered was a Master Class by the Manufacture Jaeger LeCoultre.
In this instance Master Class was a 4-hour watch training course during which we were fully educated on all the nuances of disassembly and reassembly of Jeager LeCoultre Calibre 875 both virtually and in reality.
The very sympathetic Frank, Manufactures Master watchmaker, was our knowledgeable, helpful yet very easy going instructor that made this one class I didn’t mind attending.
First it was theory time. Sitting at our work benches over our laptops and following the action on the plasma screen we got acquainted further with all the parts comprising the Reverso Grand Date Calibre 875. Via the interactive CD-ROM watch making game we proceeded with virtual disassembly of all the sum of it parts, proper order, adjustment and then returning it back in the working order.
After the theory it was time to put all that in actual practice. Before each set of actions about to be taken we were instructed in detail by Frank and then it was on us to follow through.
Reassembly following the proper steps …
… until there was noting more to disassemble.
I can tell you that viewing all the much bigger parts on the computer screen as well watching Frank do it so effortlessly is a whole other thing when you’re doing it (especially after a whole night and only 2.5 hours of sleep)
You really can easily lose some of the tiny parts …
… YES I said real easy. Duh!
As the assembly work slowly progressed …
… S L O W L Y ….
… the things started looking better
… until TA DA!
At the end if the mechanically manual-wound double-barrel eight-day power reserve movement was properly assembled we were a recipient of a very nice Master Class Diploma & the same software CD for future practice.
All in all a wonderful experience of the mechanical complexity and detailed functioning of what constitutes a properly operated fairly complicated movement. I would strongly recommend anyone interested to further expand their horological interest to try out this class. Thanks again to MJLC and Hour Glass for organizing this event.
Daily thoughts, musings & interests about anything (mostly horology) that currently makes my soul & grey matter tick.