Showing posts with label News. Show all posts
Showing posts with label News. Show all posts

Sunday, February 12, 2012

Vintage Heuer Obsession - well get your fix http://onthedash.com/



What became a chance discovery while scouring the Internets for some vintage Heuer fix I kept coming across this amazing site/forum/blog http://onthedash.com/ & since it has become my go to site for anything related to vintage Heuer. 

An absolute collectors dream for any kind of information & amazing reference on this wonderful vintage gems.  One could only wish we had resources like this for other brands and vintage timepieces.  

Today http://onthedash.com/ is celebrating its 9th Anniversary and I urge you to visit the best vintage Heuer resource in the Internets.   

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

In the words of Bowie: Ch-ch-Changes .... Apologies all over !

In the immortal words of David Bowie:

"Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes
(turn and face the strain)
Ch-ch-changes
Dont want to be a richer man
Ch-ch-ch-ch-changes
(turn and face the strain)
Ch-ch-changes
Just gonna have to be a different man
Time may change me
But I can't trace time.
"

Firstly I would like to say thanks to all the kind readers and followers of this blog for your continued patronage, patience and concern. Sorry to all you that have contacted me over time especially about my abrupt lack of posting in the past six months. All I can say is sorry for dropping out on you without any clues or notice. In truth I have not abandoned this blog nor my pursuit of blogging about all things that make my mind tick especially when considering the horological sphere. However I had to deal with some personal family issues that have struck me suddenly and following that I did embark on a new professional venture which simply consumed all of my free time that I had to be dedicated to this blog.

That said currently I am trying to find a right balance in order to further incorporate my continued contribution to this blog. If I don't have time to post much of my musings or often enough it will be simply for a lack of free time and life priories rather then any abandonment issues. I hope in future to see you still visiting and enjoying the content posted as you did in the past. Now that I had that off my chest I thought it would be appropriate to end this with a great song - so would you please join Bowie and me ;-)

Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Horology News: Jaeger-LeCoultre Wins Focus' "Goldene Unruh 2009"

Some really great news for Jaeger LeCoultre and Memovox Polaris fans, on February 26th in Stuttgart, Focus (the watch contest organized by a renowned German publication) won "Goldene Unruh 2009". For the first time in many years JLC won a first prize. In the category 10.000 - 25.000 EUR the Memovox Tribute to Polaris succeeded over Glashütte Original and Lange & Söhne. Also Master Ultra Thin (up to 5.000 EUR) and Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2 (over 25.000 EUR) were very successful both came in 4th place.

This is IMO especially crowned JLC achievement as German magazines are known to be very astute, analytical and some of the best horological publication especially when considering that it bested its German rivals in its class. So congratulation to Jaeger LeCoultre on yet another achievement and another successful accolade to be added to Memovox Tribute to Polaris whose legend keeps on growing by each passing day.

Info via Marc Menant from Jeager LeCoultre

Thursday, October 30, 2008

TAG Heuer joins the FHH club


La Chaux de Fonds, Switzerland — TAG Heuer has become a member of the exclusive Swiss watchmaking club, the Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), joining the ranks of the Richmond heavyweights such as Cartier, Jaeger Le-Coultre and Audemars Piguet.

For TAG Heuer, the membership became official Oct. 1, capping off "a 150-year history dedicated to the pursuit of ultimate precision and inspired by a constant quest for innovation," the brand said in a press release issued earlier this week.


As part of its association, TAG Heuer will showcase the "Grand Carrera Calibre 8 RS Grande Date GMT," part of the Grand Carrera series of 2007, at two of this season's most important watch fairs: the Munich Time show, set for Oct. 30 through Nov. 2, 2008, in Munich, Germany, and the Salon Belles Montres in Paris, set to take place Nov. 28-30.

Established in Geneva in 2005 to celebrate the heritage and values of fine watchmaking, the FHH promotes Swiss watchmaking culture and tradition by communicating the professional and ethical values of authenticity, creativity and innovation on which the industry's legitimacy is founded.

"The FHH has gained the respect and admiration of the fine watchmaking industry as a whole," Jean-Christophe Babin, president and chief executive officer of TAG Heuer said in a press release issued Monday. "We are extremely proud to become an active member and thus demonstrate our commitment to the founding values of haute horlogerie."

More details can be found on the official FHH Web site.

I welcome their addition so hopefully at a future event we'll finally get to see the much talked about yet maligned in both delivery & execution - the Monaco V4 concept.

Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Update ... I'm baaack!

First a note of apology to everyone that has been leaving messages and comments of support during my unexpected time off from the blog. I have just been way to busy with day to day life as well sincerely unmotivated due to some past personal & professional issues. The good news is that so many of you have been just been so encouraging and appreciative for all the posts that I simply can not digress anymore or use any lame excuses, but to get back on track.

Note of caution thought! I do like to share my sincere thoughts and not hold back writing in a certain way, but always while inspired and truly immersed in the topics at hand. From now on in order to catch up as well to frequently post I just might throw some posts/pictures/comments together that might not be as I (and You) have been used to. This will not be a lowering of a certain standard that I behold to maintain, but rather a snippet, instead of the usual essay of the daily topic at hand (including my point of view arguments, observations of daily life, recollections and reflections). Hope you enjoy the ride!

Monday, May 5, 2008

Watch News: Decima MAS Strumento XZ 221 further versions

I have just gotten a confirmation from the makers of the Decima MAS seen in last year review of the Decima MAS Strumento XZ 221 that two additional variations of this Limited Edition model are incoming to market. As you read in the introduction of this piece the XZ221-001 is a water-proof instrument, produced and tested for extreme climatic condition featuring that unique, highly distinctive and IMHO wonderful red chocolate a.k.a. "root beer" dial. Since the watch inception as a dedicated LE of 1941 pieces it was originally planned to have, within this millesemation number, slight yet different variations to distinguish this unique model series even further.


Since then we have seen the addition of all black dial, but the news of the day is that the the new variants of the Strumento XZ will follow closely to the tool heroic roots. Think almost tactical series - an all manual wind 16 lignes movement and an all black case finish!!! Sounds stupendous thus I can't wait for a full debrief.

Due to embargo I can't specify much more, but I should have further detailed information towards the start of next week.

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

MJLC News: Construction started on the new building of the Manufacture - Live Video

On the eve of its 175th anniversary, Jaeger-LeCoultre continues to extend within its natural environment.

Today, April 22, at 4PM CET, Jaeger-LeCoultre marked a historic moment, laying the first stone of new building in Le Sentier, which will extend Antoine LeCoultre’s original workshop and current-day Manufacture. Possible to view live at the JLC's Webcam at Le Club .

The new area will add 9,000 square meters bringing the total surface to 25,000 square meters to the Manufacture by the year 2010.

A commitment to the future of watchmaking


This integration of the Manufacture with its natural setting is obviously also complemented by a concern for the human dimension. To further accentuate this symbiosis between a company and the development of its region, Jaeger-LeCoultre will double the number of apprenticeships offered as soon as the new workshops are operational and will train almost forty new professionals each year. A tour of the facilities for the press and invited guests in honor of the event and the 175th anniversary of the campus will follow.

Jaeger-LeCoultre, which has always chosen to grow exclusively within its historical site, now incorporates 40 different professions under its roof. This approach to development reflects its pioneering spirit and the strength of its global innovation. The certainty of working within an environment that is kept intact by avant-garde methods also contributes to stimulating the creativity of the watchmakers and engineers of an exceptional brand whose achievements have been stirring public passion for almost two centuries through their inventiveness, their reliability and their elegance.

Info via JLC Le Club

Wednesday, April 9, 2008

SIHH 2008 Preview: Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph Calibres

Montblanc unveiled its first watch movement manufactured entirely in-house at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva.

On Monday, 7 April 2008 Montblanc's announced the presentation of its very first chronograph featuring a movement developed and manufactured entirely in the company's own workshops - The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph.

This watch is the first one ever to feature a movement that has been developed, produced and assembled in Montblanc's own workshops. The two chronograph movements (the MB R100 handwound calibre and the MB R200 automatic) are yet another highlight in a success story going back more than ten years for Montblanc watches: 'We're very proud of the fact that this first movement of our own further justifies our claim to be a provider of traditional European craftsmanship in the mechanical watch sector. And it means we've set up a further milestone in the success story of Montblanc watch manufacture,' explains Lutz Bethge, CEO Montblanc International. It also means that the Montblanc brand not only joins an exclusive circle of classical watch manufacturers by demonstrating its expertise and professionalism in this market segment, but also underpins something the brand embodies in all its product lines: the practice and cultivation of European craftsmanship and an authentic tradition of manufacturing by hand.

Rieussec: a name that writes the history of time

The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher is dedicated to Nicolas Rieussec, who invented the chronograph in 1821: his was a wooden case containing a clock movement that drove two rotating dials on the lid. Above them was a fixed index that left a drop of ink on the rotating dials whenever a button was pushed. For the first time ever, the device made it possible to record the exact times put up by individual horses at racing events. The principle used gave the chronograph its name and comes from the Greek: chronos for time and graphein for write. It seems only logical that the first watch movement to be developed by Montblanc, which has established itself as the world's leading manufacturer of top-quality writing instruments, should be one that 'writes time'. The principle of the rotating dials was the inspiration for the design of the new Montblanc chronograph and gives the watch its unmistakable appearance.

A stopwatch that fuses tradition and innovation

The Montblanc MB R100 calibre is a hand-wound movement with displays for the time of day, the date and a chronograph that combines classical column wheel operation with a modern vertical plate clutch. The chronograph is operated using a pushbutton in the side of the case at 8 o'clock. The time of day is displayed in an off-centre dial that features a 1 to 31 scale for the date indicator within the hour circle. The movement has two barrels, which generate a 72-hour power reserve. The remaining power reserve is shown on a display at the back of the movement, which can be seen through the sapphire glass cover. Alternatively, Montblanc also offers its own automatic movement, the Montblanc MB R200 calibre.


Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph: a watch for connoisseurs in a limited edition
The Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph is a piece for connoisseurs that will be available only in limited numbers: 25 watches in platinum 950, 75 in 18 K white gold and 75 in 18 K yellow gold, together with 125 watches in 18 K red gold. In keeping with traditional watchmaking methods the precious metal cases, measuring 43 millimetres in diameter, are cold-moulded and painstakingly finished by hand. A convex sapphire glass with an antireflective coating on both sides covers the dial while a sapphire glass back cover provides a view of the ornately decorated movement and its visible chronograph mechanism and power reserve display. With its unique combination of features, complex precision mechanics and limited availability, the Montblanc Star Nicolas Rieussec Monopusher Chronograph has all the makings of a much sought-after collector's item.

Specifications:


The case measures 43mm X 14.8mm with 22mm lugs. The crystal is sapphire with AR-coating, as is the display back. It is water resistant to 30 meters. It is available in a rose gold version of 125 pieces, with a platinum version of 25 pieces and a white gold version of 75 pieces.

The movement, the in-house Montblanc Caliber MB R100 is hand-wound, with twin barrels and stop balance wheel. It has 286 parts, with 33 jewels, beating at 28,800 bph and with a power reserve of 72 hours. The plates are Rhodium-plated and circular-grained; Bridge are Rhodium-plated with Geneva stripes. The chronograph features a new type of display on 60-second and 30-minute counters using rotating discs and fixed hands, with a power reserve display on the case back. Monopusher operation at 8 o'clock features column wheel control and a vertical disc clutch.

Info via Montblanc press file

SIHH 2008 Preview: Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar

Girard-Perregaux revisits the perpetual calendar, incorporating this sophisticated mechanism in the elegant case of a Vintage 1945 Square. Automatically indicating the date, day and month, this timepiece is also the first to be equipped with the all-new Microvar free sprung balance.

With the Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar, the Manufacture has created one of the finest jewels of a collection which has been constantly updated with refinement. Inspired by a rectangular wristwatch created in 1945, Girard-Perregaux has developed this Art Deco derived line, retaining the clean spaces and straight angles, but adopting a square case. The curve of the domed dial and the recessed applique counters play on the depth and spaces.

The attention paid to the details is revealed in all the parts, down to the rounded indices. This timepiece displays the date, day, month and moon phase, automatically taking into account the length of the months and leap years. Its 1461 day (i.e. 4-year) "mechanical memory" takes into consideration the variations in the Gregorian calendar.

This concentrated piece of watchmaking technology requires the combination of hundreds of components, forming a complex architecture. The movement crafted in-house by Girard-Perregaux is visible via the transparent case-back.


The Vintage 1945 Square Perpetual Calendar also incorporates an innovation derived from Girard-Perregaux's research in the field of chronometry: the Microvar free sprung balance. This exclusive development by the Manufacture combines a six-screw system and two regulating weights positioned on the rim of the balance, which are used to respectively set the balance of the rim and the rate of the watch. This construction enhances the excellence of the timepiece, fully expressing Girard-Perregaux's know-how.

Specifications:

Pink gold case

Dimensions: 34.20 x 32 mm
Sapphire crystal
Sapphire case-back secured by 4 screws
Water resistance: 30 meters

Girard-Perregaux movement Ref. GP0033Q0

mechanical with automatic winding
Calibre: 11 ½ ’’’
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour (4 Hz)
Jewels: 27
Power reserve: minimum 46 hours
Functions: hour, minute, perpetual calendar, moon phases indicatorAlligator strap with folding buckle

Also available with a white gold case and/or a black dial.

Info via Girard Perregaux press file.

SIHH 2008 Preview: Girard-Perregaux Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante

Girard-Perregaux presents a world premiere: the first Tourbillon Chronograph with Rattrapante and Foudroyante. A remarkable tribute to the Manufacture's heritage, this timepiece reveals an unprecedented combination of some of the most sophisticated complications.

In around 1880, Constant Girard would develop one of the most effective and most accurate time measurement instruments of its era: a Rattrapante Chronograph with Foudroyante second, housed in a pocket watch. Nine years later, he would pull off another feat: his Tourbillon with three gold Bridges, a prize-winner at the Paris Universal Exhibition. In 2008, Girard-Perregaux is once more making use of these complex mechanisms, taking on a new challenge: combining all these complications in a perfectly proportioned wristwatch.


Only thirty-three connoisseurs will be able to own this uncommon watchmaking combination. Mass production has no place in this exceptional field: some five hundred and seven components are assembled by hand to make up the complete movement housed in the pink gold case, following the stringent rules of a watchmaking art that prizes special achievements.

In presenting this timepiece, Girard-Perregaux is remaining true to its tradition, and is continuing the development of its models with rattrapante and foudroyante second, which are among its most spectacular Haute Horlogerie creations. The rattrapante chronograph can register split times, during sports events for example. In this case it is supplemented by a foudroyante second, which runs in a counter at 9 o'clock: the hand makes a complete turn of its dial in one second, while imperceptibly marking a stop time every sixth of a second.


Lit up by the graceful Tourbillon with gold Bridge, the design of this timepiece is the be-all in elegance. Its host of complications blends into a harmonious dial which takes the expertise of the master-watchmaker, who knows that perfection is concealed in the most delicate details. The fine chronograph and rattrapante hands are superimposed when stopped. The rattrapante function is made especially discreet by the model only having two push-pieces: the one at 2 o'clock controls the rattrapante hand, while the one at 4 o'clock starts, stops and resets the chronograph. To complement the creation, the case lugs ensure a perfect fit on the wrist.

There are other sophistications specific to this movement. Girard-Perregaux improves the chronometric developments by equipping the rattrapante with an isolating device that ensures a constant balance amplitude. The foudroyante second mechanism is also ingeniously designed, to enable it to be combined with a Tourbillon.

Specifications:

Pink gold case

- Diameter: 44 mm
- Height: 17.10 mm
- Sapphire crystal
- See-through case-back secured by 6 screws
- Water resistance: 30 metres

Girard-Perregaux movement GP9973 mechanical with manual winding

- Tourbillon with gold Bridge, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- Calibre: 14 ½ ’’’Height: 9.30 mm
- Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour (3 Hz)
- Jewels: 43Power reserve: minimum 96 hours (4 days)
- Tourbillon cage: 69 components, 0.4 grams
- Functions: hour, minute, small second on the Tourbillon, date, chronograph with rattrapante and foudroyante
- 507 parts
- Alligator strap with folding buckle

Limited and numbered edition of 33 pieces.

Info via Girard Perregaux press file.

Monday, April 7, 2008

Superb Video featuring the marvelous JLC Reverso Gyrotourbillon2


Take a look at this amazing video featuring the spectacular Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso GyroTourbillon2 . Simply marvelous and definitely worth spending some time to admire all the precise work put in this creation by the very best of the talented watchmaking team from the Grande Maison.


Again fantastic work by the whole MJLC team both in creation of this masterpiece as well as such suitable promotion vehicle. Bravo!

SIHH 2008 Preview: Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Across Land and Sea, Vacheron Celebrates Travel with Two New Overseas Models

Two years after celebrating the Overseas’ tenth anniversary, Vacheron Constantin has added two new models to this line, which is dedicated to the spirit of travel: the watch Overseas Dual Time, combining useful functions with a diamond setting, and a new pink gold version of the now-famous Overseas Chronograph.

The well-named Overseas is the line for frequent travelers, a line that crosses land and sea, that transcends time-zones. Since their launch in 1996, Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas watches have been faithful companions to international travelers who appreciate technical and aesthetic excellence.

They are also ideal for anyone looking for a time-measuring instrument that reflects their character: dynamic and sporty, elegant and distinguished. Vacheron Constantin’s two exceptional new models - the Overseas Dual Time and the pink gold Overseas Chronograph – are both invitations to travel.


History

Travel and the desire to explore the world has always been part of the Vacheron Constantin spirit. Jacques Vacheron started the trend in 1810, traveling throughout Europe and selling his watches to the rich and powerful. As the manufacture expanded, his journeys became longer and more frequent. François Constantin, who took over in 1819, traveled even further afield, presenting the brand’s masterpieces around the world. About 1930, the brand noticed that a good number of its customers were regularly crossing the seas and oceans on business or for pleasure. Its response was a stainless steel watch for active, enterprising travellers, brought out in 1932.

Since 1973, Vacheron Constantin has established itself as a pioneer of the ultra-functional stainless steel timepieces that the period craved, to such a degree that the Overseas is now one of the most successful watches in its category. It was hardly a surprise when the brand marked its 222nd anniversary in 1977 with the launching of a rather unusual steel watch. Bearing the code name 222, its one-piece case featured a screw-down “porthole” bezel, creating a robust entity designed for intensive use in a hostile environment. Equipped with an integrated bracelet, the watch 222 had highly legible luminous hands and hour-markers and was offered in gold, steel or a combination of both. Thanks to a crown protected by two water-resistant gaskets, the watch 222 was water-resistant to 120 meters. And what was rare for the period, the case was fitted with an anti-magnetic shield.

Contemporary in spirit and absolutely functional, the watch 222 was the first quality watch to be designed for travel and adventure, and can be legitimately viewed as the precursor of the Overseas line.


Functionality and legibility

In 1996, Vacheron Constantin decided to launch a new line of timepieces for travelers: the Overseas. With their clean, naturally elegant lines, these highly technical watches have been one of the most successful in the genre. Dedicated to travel and to today’s explorers, the Overseas models have won many admirers thanks to their classical and dynamic styling, remarkable functionality and excellent legibility.

In 2006, the Overseas’ 10th anniversary was celebrated with the launching of the Dual Time with a second time zone - one of the most useful functions for frequent travelers - as well as a yellow gold chronograph.

2008: two years after the line’s 10th anniversary, the new Overseas Dual Time models are presented in pink or white gold, diamond-set and on white straps.

The model Overseas Dual Time features a date and two other very practical complications: a second time zone and a power reserve. Its 18K 5N pink or white gold case, generous 42-mm diameter and clear-cut, harmonious lines give this timepiece a very strong character.

The white gold bezel, whose design is reminiscent of the manufactures characteristic Maltese cross, creates a soft contrast. Set with precious stones that conform to the most stringent criteria in terms of purity, color and size, it shimmers with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds.

This watch also has a solid caseback stamped with the “Overseas” medallion, a two-masted sailing ship. Thanks to its screw-down crown, this veritable jewel of elegance is water-resistant to a depth of 15 Atm equivalent to approximately 150 meters.


A dial with exceptional finishing and excellent legibility.

A complicated watch in every respect, the Overseas Dual Time is a perfect example of the exceptional technical and aesthetic savoir-faire of the watchmakers and craftsmen at Vacheron Constantin.

The matte white varnished dial, with its luminescent, pink gold leaf-shaped hands, provides perfect legibility for reading the various indications.

The Vacheron Constantin 1222 SC self-winding movement beats at 28,800 vibrations an hour. Besides the central hours, minutes and seconds, the Dual Time features a second time zone on a rhodium-plated opaline sub-dial at 6 o’clock, to which a small day/night hour indicator is attached. This means the wearer will be able to keep track of the time, anywhere in the world.

Harmoniously positioned at 2 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively are a silvered opaline date dial, numbered from 1 to 31, and a rhodium-plated opaline 40-hour power reserve indicator.

Like every Overseas model, the watch Dual Time features an anti-magnetic shield. Researched and developed by Vacheron Constantin, this means that, no matter where the owner is, her timepiece will not be affected by magnetic forces, which influence both the running and accuracy of the watch. A further important addition to this watch’s aesthetic and technical qualities.


New white straps, in alligator leather or rubber

Diamonds sparkle at their brightest when they come together with luminous materials, one of the reasons why Vacheron Constantin decided to deck out the watch Overseas Dual Time with a white vulcarbonised rubber strap.

Delivered with this very trendy strap is the main one, in alligator leather, also in white, and featuring a triple folding clasp in 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold.

2008: precious, elegant in any situation, and ideal for long journeys, the emblematic Overseas Chronograph is now presented in pink gold

In response to the success of the first Overseas Chronograph in stainless steel, Vacheron Constantin brought out the same model in yellow gold in 2006 as part of the line’s 10th anniversary celebrations.

To follow up the success of this emblematic model, Vacheron Constantin now presents the self-winding Overseas Chronograph in a new pink gold version.


The sporty, stylish 42-mm case displays all the qualities associated with the collection. With its sleek lines, Maltese-cross-inspired bezel, luminescent hour-markers, screw-down push-pieces, water-resistance to a depth of 15 Atm equivalent to approx.150 meters, and the Overseas’ emblematic two-masted sailing ship motif engraved on the solid caseback, the new pink gold Overseas Chronograph is a worthy descendant of the Vacheron Constantin tradition of distinguished chronographs that look elegant in any situation.

The case has a strong and instantly-recognizable design and its large anthracite dial clearly sets off all the useful functions offered by the Vacheron Constantin 1137 movement, which beats at a rate of 21,600 vibrations/hour.

As well as its classical functions – hours, minutes and seconds - the pink gold Overseas Chronograph features two counters: 30 minutes at 3 o’clock and 12 hours at 9 o’clock. The date is displayed in an oversized window at 12 o’clock.

As the pink gold hands and hour-markers are coated with a white luminescent material, this unpretentious yet sophisticated design provides optimal legibility in any circumstances.

In keeping with all the models in the line, the new pink gold Overseas Chronograph is equipped with an anti-magnetic shield that protects the movement and complex gear-trains from disturbances caused by local magnetic fields. A major advantage that will not go unnoticed by travellers who are constantly on the move.

The new Overseas Chronograph comes with a choice of 3 straps: pink gold, hand-sewn alligator leather, or dark-brown vulcarbonised rubber

Designed along very strict ergonomic lines, the Overseas Chronograph’s pink gold bracelet has an exclusive shape - a succession of half-Maltese-cross links – that gives it a precious and particularly refined look. With its triple folding clasp and double pushpiece locking system, this meticulously polished and satin-finished bracelet is incredibly supple and comfortable.

For sportier travellers, the pink gold Overseas Chronograph is also available on an elegant dark-brown, hand-sewn alligator strap, which is delivered with a second, more casual vulcarbonised rubber strap, also in dark brown.


Specifications:

Reference 47751/000G-9351 and 47751/000R-9351

Movement: 1222 SC, Self-winding mechanical
Anti-magnetic protection
Height of movement 4.90 mm
Diameter of movement 26.60 mm
Jewelling 34 rubies
Frequency 28,800 vibrations/hour

Indications: Hours, minutes, central seconds
Power reserve
2nd time zone with day / night indicator
Date hand

Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours

Case: 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold
Set with 88 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.90 ct)

Water-resistance 15 ATM, equivalent to a depth of 150 meters

Dial: Matte white varnish.
Slate day / night indication
10 applied hour-markers in 18K 5N pink gold with white luminescent strip

Strap: White hand-stitched, square-scaled alligator leather
Delivered with a second strap in white vulcarbonized rubber.

Clasp: 18K white gold or 5N 18K pink gold triple-blade, double-safety folding clasp
Polished half Maltese cross


Reference 49150/B01R-9338 and 49150/000R-9338

Movement: 1137, Self-winding mechanic
Anti-magnetic protection
Height of movement 6.60 mm
Diameter of movement 26.20 mm
jeweling 37 rubies
Frequency 21,600 vibrations/hour

Indications: Hours, minutes and small seconds at 6 o’clock
Column-wheel chronograph
12-hour and 30-minute counter
Large date at 12 o’clock

Power reserve: Approximately 40 hours

Case: 18K 5N pink gold

Water-resistance 15 ATM, equivalent to a depth of 150 meters

Dial: Anthracite 12 applied 18K 5N pink gold hour-makers in with white luminescent strip

Strap: Polished and satin-finished 18K 5N pink gold or
Hand-stitched, square scaled, dark brown alligator leather
Delivered with a second strap in dark brown vulcarbonized rubber

Clasp: 5N 18K pink gold triple-blade, double-safety folding clasp polished half Maltese cross

SIHH 2008 Preview: Vacheron Constantin Quai de l’Ile Collection Concept

Vacheron Constantin introduces Quai de l’Ile

Personalization, service, security, innovation: Spotlight on tomorrow’s watchmaking

The new Quai de l’Ile line from the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture introduces a unique dimension in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Personalized to meet the client’s wishes, this resolutely contemporary watch combines the most advanced technologies with the finest horological savoir-faire. Innovative, original, contemporary and sophisticated, the Quai de l’Ile line meets the demands of tomorrow’s Haute Horlogerie: personalization, security, service, excellent workmanship and savoir-faire.

With its new Quai de l’Ile line – named after the brand’s historic Geneva address – the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture reveals its pioneering character while drawing on over two and a half centuries of experience.



The case is revolutionary, the dial incorporates a whole range of security-printing technologies, the two self-winding mechanical movements – stamped with the Geneva Hallmark – have been designed and developed at Vacheron Constantin, and the product’s accessories – box, passport, USB key and multimedia elements – break new ground in the world of watchmaking.

Characterized by both technology and tradition, this combination of elements constitutes the unique genetic heritage of Vacheron Constantin’s new Quai de l’Ile line, an innovative and resolutely contemporary line that embodies the notions of service and the special relationship with the customer.

Personalization, the ultimate luxury


Personalization is the ultimate expression of luxury. It is also the elemental link in the relationship between a customer and brand, between expectations and service. It is to strengthen this link and to offer a unique experience to its clientèle that Vacheron Constantin has developed a concept of personalization that is totally new in Haute Horlogerie, a world first in fact. Thanks to the Quai de l’Ile case and its remarkable seven-piece middle, the customer can choose from three metals, two dials & two different finishes on the movements to realize the watch of his dreams. While the cushion shaped case allows for an infinite number of combinations, Vacheron Constantin is offering almost 400 for this year’s launching.

Quai de l’Ile: a name, a history, a symbol

The Quai de l’Ile has been Vacheron Constantin’s historical address in Geneva since the 19th century, ever since Jean-François Constantin (1829-1900) had a building constructed there in 1873-1874. A visionary, he already felt the need to give the manufactory a place which would help it stand out in the world of Geneva’s Haute Horlogerie and give it a more international dimension. This address soon became the symbol of an incomparable quality of service with the creation of personalized Haute Horlogerie timepieces that reflected the brand’s motto, “Do better if possible, which is always possible”.

Dynamic character

Designed in the dynamic of a sophisticated and contemporary line, the instantly identifiable Quai de l’Ile case expresses the tradition behind Vacheron Constantin’s 250+ years of history as well as the line’s resolutely innovative character. The case is cushion-shaped in the spirit of several historical models and its modernity is underscored by its dynamic character, fluid lines and original shapes, all of which give it a subtle balance.


Avant-garde technologies

The Quai de l’Ile’s complex mechanism can be seen through the line’s semi-transparent dials, which are an innovative blend of the world of watchmaking and sophisticated, top-secret technologies of security printing. Art and cutting-edge technology, extreme precision and aesthetic creativity come together in these exclusive and secure dials, which have four patents pending.

The Manufacture’s signature


The new Quai de l’Ile line will be launched with two models: the Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding and the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding. Both movements are stamped with the prestigious Geneva Hallmark. Designed, developed and manufactured by Vacheron Constantin, these state-of-the-art movements are coated with rhodium or ruthenium and visible through the dial. As well as indicating the hours, minutes and central seconds, the 2460QH calibre displays the date by means of
a disc, while the 2475SC/1 calibre displays the date, day of the week and power reserve with hands.

Pair of straps

Each Quai de l’Ile model is delivered with two straps: one in black or dark-brown hand-stitched, saddle-finish, large square-scaled alligator leather; the other in dark-brown or black vulcanized rubber, with a refined and elegant design. Both types of strap come with a new triple-folding, double-safety clasp with a half-Maltese-cross flap. Specially designed for the Quai de l’Ile line, this clasp matches
the heart of the case and has a polished (palladium or pink gold) or satined(titanium) finish.

Secure environment

Vacheron Constantin was determined to push to the limits the concept of security that is the hallmark of the Quai de l’Ile line. The innovative product environment is an integral and extended part of the security and inviolability that characterize the dials. A Vacheron Constantin passport offering similar standards of protection and quality as a Swiss passport will accompany every watch in the line for its
lifetime. An innovative box, a USB key and a multimedia tool - all very original elements for a Haute Horlogerie watch - have been designed to correspond in every way to the watch’s contemporary character.

Pushing back the limits

With its sophisticated and contemporary character, the new Quai de l’Ile line (identified by its cushion shape) will develop alongside Vacheron Constantin’s two main pillars, the Malte (tonneau) and the Patrimony (round). It will be distinguished by its sophisticated technologies and its distinctive concept of personalization. The launching of the Quai de l’Ile line represents a milestone in Vacheron Constantin’s history, with the concept of personalization pushing back even further the limits of
exclusiveness that the Geneva-based manufacture has made its own.


Quai de l’Ile - The ultimate luxury of personalization

With its novel concept of personalization, the Quai de l’Ile line has given Haute Horlogerie a new dimension.

Sophisticated, bold and resolutely innovative, this contemporary line has achieved the feat of marrying the most sophisticated technologies to over 250 years of horological savoir-faire. As a result, Vacheron Constantin is determining the shape of tomorrow’s watchmaking.



Transparency and architecture

A watch from the new Quai de l’Ile line makes an immediate impact. Its semi-transparent dial is fascinating, its suspended displays astonishing, its distinguished, modern case appealing and its combination of materials intriguing. The case has been designed and developed in a resolutely avantgarde and architectural dynamic and lies at the heart of the personalization process. With a dial embodying the very latest security-printing technologies and a cushion-shaped case, the designers opted for a theme of transparency and avant-garde design. The technology invested in the case, as well as the vigour and power that emanate from it, will satisfy the most demanding enthusiasts of technical prowess, luxury and exclusiveness.


Almost 400 combinations

The personalization concept at the heart of the Quai de l’Ile line is unique in the world of Haute Horlogerie, a line that is midway between models from the Collection – entirely designed and made in the Manufacture – and the 100% made-to-measure watches from the Atelier Cabinotiers Special Order department. Personalization is based on four elements: the seven-piece case and middle, the dial with the latest security-printing technologies, the movement finishing, and the strap. In total, there are almost 400 combinations from which to create an exceptional timepiece that mirrors the wearer’s personality.

The Quai de l’Ile line will be launched with two models in 2008: the Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding (calibre 2460QH) and the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding (calibre2475SC/1). In the first instance, only the latter will be available in a personalized version in 100 exclusive sales points (Vacheron Constantin boutiques and retailers carefully selected for their quality of service).

First, the personalized watch is envisaged and designed by the future buyer with the aid of an interactive tactile screen developed by Vacheron Constantin and a set of material and color samples. It then enters its production cycle in Geneva and will be delivered within a few weeks, as agreed on beforehand with the client.

Avant-garde design

There is no need to explain to connoisseurs that the Quai de l’Ile cushion case is an avant-garde reinterpretation of a classic watch shape. Like legendary cars that are constantly redesigned to anticipate changes in style, the Quai de l’Ile case is the expression of an avant-garde watch conception, but one which is perfectly faithful to Vacheron Constantin’s stylistic spirit. In their search for fluidity, visually perfect curves, an assertive character and dynamism, the engineers and designers at Vacheron
Constantin explored the limits of these areas and created the case that today symbolizes Vacheron


Constantin’s concept of personalization - Quai de l’Ile

At the heart of personalization: the case

The innovative personalization of the Quai de l’Ile line is made possible by the unique 7-part construction of the case and middle.

Along with the other components of the watch – movement, dial and strap – this extraordinary construction means that Vacheron Constantin can offer almost 400 different combinations for the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding model.


While the middle – one of the components of a case – is normally a single element, Vacheron Constantin’s personalization concept is based on an assembled 7-part case comprising the following elements:

- Lateral flank at 3 o’clock
- Lateral flank at 9 o’clock
- Lugs at 12 o’clock
- Lugs at 6 o’clock
- Inter-lug piece at 12 o’clock
- Inter-lug piece at 6 o’clock
- Support plate

In addition to these 7 parts, the 41 mm case middle includes:

- Titanium inner case for all models
- Bezel
- Back
- Crown


Three groups of components

In its concern to preserve the aesthetic harmony of the whole and not wanting to make an impact with tens of thousands of combinations, though this would be technically possible, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture opted for a carefully planned personalization system. For this reason, it has defined three groups of components:

- Heart of the case (lugs + inter-lug pieces + back)
- Bezel
- Lateral flanks and support plate

The crown can also be personalized, but it has to be made of the material chosen for one of the other three groups.

A choice of three metals in any combination

The Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding can be personalized with a choice of three metals - 5N pink gold, titanium and palladium - for each of the three groups of components, and in any combination. This is the first time Vacheron Constantin has ever used titanium and palladium in one of its standard collections.

Pink gold (Au).

Titanium (Ti).

Palladium (Pd).


Besides the Quai de l’Ile watches that can be personalized in almost 400 combinations, Vacheron Constantin decided to offer a standard Quai de l’Ile line, comprising two models for its launching this year:

- Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding (calibre 2460QH)
- Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding (calibre 2475 SC/1)


Both models will be available in three different versions:

- Middle, back, bezel and crown in palladium – grey dial – rhodium-plated movement
- Middle, back, bezel and crown in pink gold – light dial – rhodium-plated movement
- Middle, back, bezel and crown in titanium – dark dial – ruthenium movement


Quai de l’Ile - At the heart of innovation: the dial

The dials of the Quai de l’Ile line are to watchmaking what the latest security printing techniques for bank notes are to the Gutenberg press. Light years apart!

These semi-transparent dials, which have four patents pending, are safeguards against
counterfeiting, integrating secret texts, micro-printing, security inks and UV markings using invisible ink. While incorporating the very latest advances in technology, they also present a magical visual effect.


For the first time, an Haute Horlogerie brand has joined forces with the world of security printing, that of bank notes and other documents that cannot be forged. Some of the most secret technologies have been used to produce the safest dials ever made, dials with truly innovative graphics that are absolutely faithful to the Vacheron Constantin spirit.

At the crossroads of art and the most sophisticated printing techniques, the spectacular dials of the Quai de l’Ile line are both eye-catching and intriguing.

With strange depths, striking contours, subtle interplays of transparency and opaqueness, alternating visible and invisible elements, precision markings and micro-printing, there is nothing remotely similar with the dial of an ordinary watch.

With the Quai de l’Ile watch, Vacheron Constantin is taking Haute Horlogerie into a new dimension.

Protection against counterfeiting

Orell Füssli Security Printing Ltd, printers of bank notes and Swiss passports, accepted for the first time to put its highly specialized savior-faire at the service of the watch industry. To give a more artistic dimension to this very technical process, Vacheron Constantin called on the services of Mr Roger Pfund, an internationally renowned Swiss designer who, among other things, has produced the graphics for many bank notes, both Swiss and foreign. He has designed the present
Swiss passport.

The Quai de l’Ile dials are remarkable for their technical features as well as their spectacular decorations, which in no way hinder the perfect legibility of the information they display. Other indications and markings are invisible in normal conditions, making these dials the most secure on the market.

This ultra-sophisticated dial, therefore, gives the Quai de l’Ile models complete protection against the scourge of counterfeiting.


Futuristic processes on sapphire

Technically, the Quai de l’Ile dials comprise two main elements:

- A sapphire crystal
- A security polymer

The sapphire crystal is an amalgam of cutting-edge techniques and refined processes, in particular those of:

- Laser engraving (with or without inking)
- Galvanic growth of metal, gold-plated
- Metallization

A sun alludes to the history of Vacheron Constantin


The dials on both models in the new line are illuminated by the sun, also produced by the metallization process. It is inspired by the clock on the Tour de l’Ile in Place Bel-Air, in the Saint-Gervais district of Geneva. At one time, all the watchmakers on the square set their watches and clocks by it.

An allusion to Vacheron Constantin’s past as well as a key security feature of the dial, the invisible ink disc affixed to the back of the security polymer (at the centre of the sun) can only be seen with a UV lamp.

This distinctive sign is also on the passport which comes with each watch.

The three secrets of the security transparent film

Stuck under the sapphire crystal, the security transparent film – the same one used for printing on bank notes – is made from a special chemical compound.

This security transparent film guarantees complete protection against counterfeiting, once it has been subjected to various products and extremely precise operations, like:

- The printing of micro-characters
- The use of security inks
- UV markings using invisible ink

On the movement side, the security transparent film has a pattern of hundreds of Maltese crosses and concentric circles. Depending on the version, it is printed with white or black ink.

On the dial side, the security transparent film has a pattern of concentric lines representing the spiral of time. These also serve as a seconds track. These lines – or rays – are printed alternately with light-grey and sepia ink or with light-grey and white ink.

A choice of two dials (dark or light) for 3 different effects


Three dial finishes are offered on all Quai de l’Ile versions:

- Grey – dark dial with a rhodium-plated movement
- White – light dial with a rhodium-plated movement
- Black – dark dial with a ruthenium movement


2475 SC/1 caliber (Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding)
&
2460 QH caliber (Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding)

Although the Quai de l’Ile line is the expression of a very contemporary language, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture never forgets the legitimacy it has earned in the watch industry from over 250 years of uninterrupted activity.

Accumulated experience and patiently acquired savoir-faire nourish the day-to-day thinking that goes into developing new mechanisms. Designed, developed and produced in-house, the 2475SC/1 and 2460QH calibres, which will power the first models of the Quai de l’Ile line, have grown out of this dynamic.



An exceptional timepiece needs an exceptional movement.

Respecting this principle, as it has for over 250 years, the Vacheron Constantin Manufacture decided to equip the first models in its new Quai de l’Ile line with two of the very latest generation of self winding movements, developed and produced by the Manufacture and stamped with the famous Geneva Hallmark, the distinctive and prestigious sign of Haute Horlogerie.

Besides bearing the Geneva Hallmark, both movements are meticulously finished, in the Haute Horlogerie tradition: this includes Côtes de Genève decorations (circular on the dial side, straight on the movement side), chamfered, rhodium-plated bridges, and circular-grained plates.

Choice of finishing with both movements:
- Rhodium (light)
- Ruthenium (dark)

For the 2460QH calibre (Quai de l’Ile Date Self-winding): Hours, minutes and central seconds, with an additional plate for the date disc. This date function has a novel feature: it is the disc that moves, not the numbers. The visual effect is of a date that “moves” every day to a different place on the dial.


For the 2475SC/1 calibre (Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding): Hours, minutes and central seconds, with an additional plate displaying the power reserve, date, and day of the week with hands.

These exemplary finishings have a special three-dimensional effect thanks to the unique interplay of transparencies created by the line’s sapphire crystal and by the view it provides into the heart of the mechanical movement.

To provide optimal legibility of the dial’s hour-circle, the two movements have a snailed exterior ring, rhodium - or ruthenium-finished depending on the version.

Finally, a new rotor has been developed – its design inspired by the back of the case - to reflect the spirit of the line. Made in ruthenium-finished 22K gold, it is distinguished by its pure lines, which are enhanced by five embossed fillets.


Quai de l’Ile - Meticulously planned environment

Everything for the Quai de l’Ile line has been meticulously planned. And coherence has been the watchword throughout the whole creative process, from designing the mechanical movements to making the presentation box.

The elements comprising the product environment have been subject to the same innovation, personalization and security criteria as those applied to the creative process of the timepiece itself.


The introduction of the Quai de l’Ile line has been an opportunity for Vacheron Constantin to totally re-think its approach to the product environment and to develop its role as a “citizen’s brand” by constructing solid bridges between the watch, its strong character and the set of elements designed to accompany it throughout its life. It has achieved this by not hesitating, when it is justified, to modernise the traditional characteristics of Haute Horlogerie. In so doing, Vacheron Constantin has
once again showed itself to be an innovator.

The new box has a resolutely contemporary and refined design: an unusual vertical shape, an integrated “display-case” window for admiring the watch at all times, even when it is closed, and a more compact size than a standard box of similar quality.

It has been designed to contain all the accessories that come with the new Quai de l’Ile watch. It holds a small travel pouch, lighter and more practical, that can also hold the watch and its accessories. Its size has been optimized to take up as little room as possible and to ensure that the owner can feel perfectly confident about safely carrying the watch in it.


As well as the watch, the pouch will hold all the Quai de l’Ile line accessories:

- A real passport: unique and dedicated to the watch,
- A USB key: with instructions for use, maintenance tips, technical information, a presentation of the manufacture, its history and its savoir-faire, photos, animated sequences, etc. The instructions for use are only printed in French and English to save on paper,
- Tools: a magnifying glass, a corrector pencil for the Quai de l’Ile Day-Date and Power-Reserve Self-winding model, and a microfiber cloth,
- Second strap in alligator leather or rubber.

Info via Vacheron Constantine press file

SIHH 2008 Preview: Officine Panerai

PAM00297 Luminor GMT 44mm
Case: brushed steel
Dial: black dial, bracelet brushed steel with polished surface between the links

PAM00299 Luminor Marina Automatic 44mm
Case: brushed steel case, polished bezel
Dial: black dial, bracelet brushed steel with polished surface between the links

PAM00310 Luminor Chrono 40mm
Case: brushed steel case, polished bezel
Dial: black dial adjustable buckle

PAM00311 Luminor 1950 titanium 8 days
Chrono monopulsante GMT 44mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P2004 - 8 days chrono hand wound
Dial: brown sandwich

PAM00317 Luminor 1950 ceramic 8 days
Chrono monopulsante GMT 44mm
Case: ceramic and bezel
Movement: P2004 - 8 days chrono hand wound
Dial: black sandwich

PAM00306 Luminor 1950 titanium Tourbillon GMT 47mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: dial brown sandwich historic titanium buckle

PAM00315 Radiomir titanium Tourbillon GMT 48mm
Case: brushed titanium, polished titanium bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: brown sandwich with pink gold ring historic titanium buckle

PAM00316 Radiomir platinum Tourbillon GMT 48mm
Case: Platinum bezel
Movement: P 2005 - 6 days tourbillon GMT hand wound
Dial: black sandwich with pink gold ring radiomir white gold adjustable buckle

Special Editions:


PAM00309 Radiomir 47mm (black dial)
Case: 47mm, brushed titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XXVII (Minerva hand wound)
Dial: Black Sandwich with pink gold ring


PAM00322 Radiomir 47 MM (brown dial)
Case: 47mm, brushed titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XXVII (Minerva hand wound)
Dial: Brown Sandwich with pink gold ring


PAM00026 Luminor Marina Destro 44 MM
Case: 44mm, brushed steel with special hard black coating
Movement: Panerai OP II
Dial: Black sandwich


PAM00308 Luminor Regatta Chronograph 44mm
Case: 44mm, brushed steel
Movement: Panerai OP XXVI, COSC
Dial: Black with Paris Hobnails


PAM00307 Luminor 1950 Pangaea Submersible Depth Gauge 47mmM
Case: 47mm, titanium
Movement: Panerai OP XV, COSC
Dial: Blue

Sunday, April 6, 2008

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Ulysse Nardin Sonata Silicium

Ulysse Nardin’s revolutionary use of materials continues, with the use of silicium in all its new models. The dial, micro-precision components, exclusive spring, oscillator, anchor and escapement, developed in collaboration with ASRH (Swiss Association for Horological Research), are technical features used in the movement and design of this latest model.

With the Sonata Silicium Limited Edition, Ulysse Nardin demonstrates the versatile use of silicium in watch making, including the production of micro precision components for our watch movements and for aesthetic use in the manufacture of watch dials.
The dial of the SONATA SILICIUM is cut out of a silicium wafer in its striking natural color; so too is the logo inlay on the winding rotor visible through the exhibition sapphire back of the case. The movement runs with a 28’800 A/h oscillator and an anchor escapement etched out of silicium. This escapement is the result of a research program which ASRH conducted and in which Ulysse Nardin participated. Both the anchor and escapement wheel are manufactured of silicium. In addition, 3 of the innovations first presented in August 2007 and tested within Ulysse Nardin’s InnoVision program have found their way into a serial product and are applied for the first time in a commercialized timekeeper.

* The front side/back side etched anchor with its integrated safety pin.
* The front side/back side etched roller with its integrated impulse finger.
* The silicium (1.1.1) cut hairspring (patent pending)

The Sonata Silicium is based on the technical movement features of the Sonata Cathedral Dual Time including the novel alarm setting with a countdown indicator and the dual time system with the instant time zone adjuster featured in many Ulysse Nardin watches.

This patented dual time function permits time zone adjustments forward and backward by simply pressing the pushers plus (+) or minus (-) to change the position of the hour hand. The original home time (reference time) stays displayed while the date, the alarm and countdown adjust automatically when a time zone adjustment is made. Available in a limited series of 300 in both 18ct pink and white gold.


Specifications:

Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, large date, dual time system with instant time zone adjuster, countdown, cathedral gong alarm.
Case: 18K pink or white gold, 42 mm (limited series of 300 in both pink and white gold). Anti-reflective sapphire crystal and anti-reflective, screw-down sapphire back
Water-resistant to 30 m
Dial: Silicium; Second time zone; countdown and alarm counters at 6 o’clock, 10.30 and 1.30 respectively; double date window at 4 o’clock.
Bracelet/Strap: Alligator with 18K pink or white gold folding clasp

Info via Ulysse Nardin press kit

Thursday, April 3, 2008

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original 1878 - Special Edition Moritz Grossmann

For watch city Glashütte, located in Saxony’s Müglitz Valley, May 1, 1878, is an important date in history. On this particular day, the German School of Watchmaking in Glashütte was founded on the initiative of watch manufacturer Moritz Grossmann. Rooms from the community school building of the time served as the place of instruction. In its second year of existence, the increasing number of students made building a separate school building a necessity. With the generous support of the state government, the local authority district, and a foundation the new facility located in the heart of the city was inaugurated.

The picturesque city 130 years later: thoroughly renovated and refurbished, the former school building will be inaugurated on May 22, 2008, as the historical home of the German Watch Museum in Glashütte. While on two floors the moving history of Glashütte’s art of watchmaking will be conveyed in a vivid manner, one floor of the renovated building will retain its original function, housing Saxon manufactory Glashütte Original’s own Alfred Helwig School of Watchmaking and continuing to keep Moritz Grossmann’s legacy alive.

Glashütte Original’s designers thus created a worthy timepiece in the 1878 – Special Edition Moritz Grossmann in memory of the great pioneer Moritz Grossmann, who combined the past with the present in a most wonderful way. The anniversary model was inspired by the design of historical pocket watches made by students in the 1920s, a timepiece such as this uniquely builds a bridge between the past and the future of Glashütte’s art of watchmaking. Then, as now, they were made as final exams by watchmaker apprentices.


Just one look at the dial is enough to recognize the fusion, and memories of graceful pocket watches of the past come to life. The silver-plated dial is home to sweep hour and minute displays whose blued and polished sword-shaped hands contrast with the background. Loyal to details, the hand arbor is lovingly polished by hand. Glashütte Original’s designers placed the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock, while the minute scale and filigreed markers are placed in perfect harmony around the center of the 1878 – Special Edition Moritz Grossmann’s time display.


A lavish manufacturing process goes into making the deceivingly simple surface of the dial. Glashütte Original made the conscious decision to use a vintage tradition: the technique of frosted silver plating, also known as l’argenture grainée. The first step consists of machine-blasting the surface of the brass dial with a mixture of water, chalk, and wood. Then a paste containing silver powder and water is carefully applied by hand to the blasted surface. The result is a charmingly purist dial that magically attracts the observer’s eye with its refined surface structure.


A fluted bezel creates the perfect frame for the dial. The 40-millimeter case, available in white or rose gold, is outfitted with the most modern mechanics: automatic Caliber 100-11. A sapphire crystal case back allows one to observe the perfectly finished insides of the watch with all of its traditional elements belonging to Glashütte’s art of watchmaking close up.


The crowning glory of this special edition is the additional case back it comes with in rose or white gold hand-engraved portrait of Moritz Grossmann. A limited number of 130 pieces each of this watch in white and rose gold will be available worldwide.

Info via Glashütte Original

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original Senator Rattrapante

The Glashütte Original manufacture presented an absolute highlight of the fine art of mechanical Glashütte watchmaking last year in the Senator Rattrapante. At Baselworld 2008, the Saxon manufacture presents another perfectly formed variation of the split-seconds chronograph.


Contrary to its predecessor, which was crafted in platinum, this version is currently being introduced in a more classic rose gold case. The domed, anti-reflective sapphire crystal reveals a look at the cleanly designed and structured dial of the Senator Rattrapante, with all relevant details able to be gleaned at a glance. The sweep hour and minute hands as well as the off-center stop second hand glide in shiny blue across the light dial. Should the wearer activate the rattrapante function, the red split-seconds hand begins to chase after its blue counterpart.


A red minute scale with numerals inspired by historical models completes the elegant look, building a sober frame around the artistically designed dial. The silver totalizers fit harmoniously into the entire picture of this noble timekeeper, which includes the panorama date so typical of Glashütte Original at 4 o’clock. The Roman numerals underscore and perfect the timeless look of this very special chronograph.


The sapphire crystal case back allows the fine finishing of the individual components and subgroups of manually wound Caliber 99 to become visible. On this manually wound caliber developed exclusively for the Senator Rattrapante, all important turned components—parts such as stems, pinions, and wheels—are jeweled. A technical progression is represented by the premier of the escape wheel being embedded between end stones.


Here the tip of the escape wheel pinion is embedded in a jewel, which lessens friction on the escape wheel thanks to its smaller surface. A thus steadier balance allows for stabilization of the amplitude. The design of the rattrapante tongs’ floating bearings is also technically demanding. They make a balanced division of energy possible for simultaneously opening both tong halves without having to lean on the rattrapante’s fourth wheel. This type of design is one of the highlights of the fine mechanics visible through this jewel’s sapphire crystal case back. Another remarkable characteristic of the Senator Rattrapante as a demanding manually wound chronograph is its flyback function. The great advantage of this is that the wearer is in a position to take a differential time measurement, reading the result directly without having to reset.


This exclusive timepiece’s manually wound Caliber 99 ticks within a solid, completely polished rose gold case 42 millimeters in diameter. The Senator Rattrapante is secured to the wrist of its wearer by an integrated black Louisiana crocodile skin strap with a rose gold folding clasp.

Info via Glashütte Original

BaselWorld 2008 Preview: Glashütte Original Senator Sixties Chronograph

The exciting era of the “wild ’60s” was the source of Glashütte Original’s designers’ inspiration in creating the Senator Sixties line. With the Senator Sixties Chronograph the Saxon manufacture now adds another aesthetic model to a line already so crowned by success.


Turning back time is not necessary in the case of the Senator Sixties Chronograph since this timepiece symbolizes the joie de vivre of the ‘60s very clearly for its wearer. The convex shape of the sapphire crystal on the front and likewise domed dial cleverly attract the observer’s eye. Domed, skeletonized hands glide harmoniously across the satin-finished dial, while the diamond-cut hour markers featuring characteristic dots of SuperLumiNova and the extravagant font of the numerals illustrate design typical of these years.

Glashütte Original’s designers positioned the chronograph totalizers at 3 and 9 o’clock on the dial. Polished silver zones allow the counters to integrate beautifully into the entire look of the dial design. The start and stop functions of the stylish chronograph are easily activated by the wearer with the aid of rounded buttons placed on the side of the case.


The shaped sapphire crystal case back first seen on the Senator Sixties models is naturally also present on the Senator Sixties Chronograph. It not only allows a direct view into automatic manufacture Caliber 39-52 with its characteristic elements of Glashütte watchmaking such as a three-quarter plate, swan-neck fine adjustment, Glashütte ribbing, and double sunburst decoration, but also for the first time makes a side view of the rotating oscillating weight crafted in 21-karat gold possible.


The energetic look of the Senator Sixties Chronographen is continued in its finely worked crocodile skin strap, the refined scales of which perfectly complete the retro design of this timepiece. The stainless steel model is available with a choice of a silver-colored or black dial.

Info via Glashütte Original

Daily thoughts, musings & interests about anything (mostly horology) that currently makes my soul & grey matter tick.